# Help Center
## Welcome to the Resource Center
Use this page to get to the right space fast.
Start with a section if you know the topic or jump into a high level section
### Get Started
#### Other Topics
* [Handrail Requirements](/code-compliance/railing-code/guard-and-handrail-requirements)
* [Handrail Reference Guide](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/compare-handrail-profiles)
* [Signature Cable Railing Installation](/install/signature-cable-railing/post-order-of-installation)
* [Post Order of Installation](/install/signature-cable-railing/post-order-of-installation)
* [How to Cusomize Glass Railing](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-glass-railing)
### Get Help from Us
Is this not the product you're looking for? Troubleshoot your issue by contacting our customer service team. [866-432-0541](tel:8664320541) or
# Installation Hub Overview
Start here to find installation guides, reference pages, and forms for each product family.
### How to use this hub
1. Open your product family.
2. Follow the installation guide in order.
3. Use the reference pages and forms when needed.
{% hint style="info" %}
If you are not sure where to begin, start with your product family first.
{% endhint %}
### Choose your product family
* [FLIGHT Mono](/install/flight-mono/steel-first-install)\
Installation guidance for mono stair configurations.
* [FLIGHT Stack](/install/flight-stack/steel-frame-install)\
Steel frame and tread installation guides.
* [FLIGHT Cantilever](/install/flight-cantilever/steel-first-install)\
Installation guidance for cantilever stair systems.
* [FLIGHT Spiral](/install/flight-spiral/bolt-together-spiral-staircase-installation-guide)\
Spiral staircase installation guides by system type.
* [Express Cable Railing](/install/express-cable-railing/level-surface-mount-post-install)\
Post hardware, handrail, infill, and final touch steps.
* [Signature Cable Railing](/install/signature-cable-railing/post-order-of-installation)\
Post installation, infill paths, and handrail guidance.
* [Glass Railing](/install/glass-railing/fascia-requirement-for-side-mount)\
Base rail, standoff pin, infill, handrail, and finishing steps.
# LED System Reference
Learn about Viewrail's LED Systems
### Before You Begin Your LED Project
*Please take the following precautions:*
1. Before commencing any installation or maintenance work, disconnect power at the breaker box and ensure that it cannot be re-connected inadvertently.
2. This equipment, like all electrical equipment, should be installed by a qualified person.
3. Do not expose these LEDs, dimmers or power supplies to intense electromagnetic fields, including lightning.
4. The controllers and wire harnesses are not waterproof. They must be installed in a dry
location, or protected by an appropriate IP-rated electrical enclosure if installed in a high- moisture area (e.g., near an exterior door or in an unfinished basement).
5. Always observe proper polarity.
{% hint style="info" %}
LED systems are important parts of a FLIGHT Staircase. Be sure to handle with care when installing and always follow directions by turning off power at the corresponding step.
{% endhint %}
### Power Supplies
Viewrail offers three different power supply options based on your FLIGHT System size. The more LED strips your staircase has, the more energy that is required.
{% columns %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### Wireless Receivers
{% columns %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
The Wireless receiver is an important component as it handles the connectivity to your device.
If a FLIGHT System contains more than 12 treads two wireless recievers will be required.
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### LED Wiring Accessories
{% columns %}
{% column %}
The Stringer harness is used for connecting the LED strips with the power supply. These are hidden in different places depending on the Staircase Design
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
LED Strips are preinstalled into each tread and are connected to the stringer harness for supplying power.
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### LED Control Software
Use the app "CleanLife Smart" to control your LED Lighting.
[Download on Android](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.cleanlife.cn\&hl=en)
[Download on IoS](https://apps.apple.com/us/app/cleanlife-smart/id1451831316)
***
### Get Help from Us
Is this not the product you're looking for? Troubleshoot your issue by contacting our customer service team. [866-432-0541](tel:8664320541) or
# Angle Wall Measurement Form
Customer Name: \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_ Date: \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\
Order Number: \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_ Run #: \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_
{% columns %}
{% column width="16.666666666666664%" valign="middle" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="25%" valign="middle" %}
Knee Wall Angle:
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="24.999999999999993%" valign="middle" %}
\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_(Degree)
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="33.33333333333333%" valign="middle" %}
{% hint style="info" %}
Use an angle finding app or tool to get accurate angle measurements.
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column width="16.666666666666664%" valign="middle" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="25%" valign="middle" %}
Knee Wall Height:
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="24.999999999999993%" valign="middle" %}
\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_(Inches)
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="33.33333333333333%" valign="middle" %}
{% hint style="info" %}
Measured from the nosing to the top of the finished surface of the knee wall
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column width="16.666666666666664%" valign="middle" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="25%" valign="middle" %}
Front Knee Wall Height:
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="24.999999999999993%" valign="middle" %}
\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_(Inches)
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="33.33333333333333%" valign="middle" %}
{% hint style="info" %}
This is measured from the floor, vertically to the start of the angle run.
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column width="16.666666666666664%" valign="middle" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="25%" valign="middle" %}
Knee Wall Width:
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="24.999999999999993%" valign="middle" %}
\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_(Inches)
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="33.33333333333333%" valign="middle" %}
{% hint style="info" %}
Measurement of the finished knee wall surface. Measurements below 4" will require the use of Narrow Angle Feet.
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column width="16.666666666666664%" valign="middle" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="25%" valign="middle" %}
Knee Wall Length:
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="24.999999999999993%" valign="middle" %}
\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_(Inches)
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="33.33333333333333%" valign="middle" %}
{% hint style="info" %}
This is the overall length of the angle run
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column width="16.666666666666664%" valign="middle" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="25%" valign="middle" %}
Transition Length:
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="24.999999999999993%" valign="middle" %}
\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_(Inches)
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="33.33333333333333%" valign="middle" %}
{% hint style="info" %}
This is the distance from the last riser to the angle wall, along the level surface
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column width="16.666666666666664%" valign="middle" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="25%" valign="middle" %}
Handrail Height:
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="24.999999999999993%" valign="middle" %} :circle: Residential (36")
:circle: Commercial (42")
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="33.33333333333333%" valign="middle" %}
{% hint style="info" %}
This is the measurement from the tread nosing to the top of the handrail. 36" is standard for residential, 42" is the commercial standard.
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column width="16.666666666666664%" valign="middle" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="25%" valign="middle" %}
Top Post Configuration:
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="24.999999999999993%" valign="middle" %} :circle: Floor
:circle: Pony Wall
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="33.33333333333333%" valign="middle" %}
{% hint style="info" %}
Does the top post, that transitions from the angled run to the level run, sit on the floor or does it sit on a pony/knee wall?
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column width="16.666666666666664%" valign="middle" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="25%" valign="middle" %}
Pony Wall Height:\
*(if applicable)*
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="24.999999999999993%" valign="middle" %}
\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_(Inches)
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="33.33333333333333%" valign="middle" %}
{% hint style="info" %}
If the level railing at the top of the stairs sits on pony/knee wall, what is the height of the wall?
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
# Rise & Run Measurement Form
Customer: \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_ Order Number: \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_ Date:\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_
\
*Use separate forms for each run:* Run #:\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_ Post Numbers on Run: \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_
### Simple Form
Use this form for stair systems where the measurements **ARE** consistent.
{% columns %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
Number of Steps:\
Rise (A)\
Tread Depth (B)\
Nosing (C)\
Nosing Thickness (D)\
Stringer Base (E)
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
# FLIGHT Spiral Measurement Form
All Measurements are in Inches (IN)
Order Number: \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_ Date: \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_
Customer Name: \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_
Name or Location of Stair System: \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_
Need Onsite Date: \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_
{% columns fullWidth="true" %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
1. Subfloor to Subfloor: \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_
2. Finished Floor Thickness:
1. Downstairs: \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_
2. Upstairs: \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_
3. Ceiling Opening(Specify finished dimension or rough framing)\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_
4. Spiral Direction (going up the stairs):
Left Right
5. Header to Wall: \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_
6. Subfloor Material:
1. Downstairs: Wood Concrete
2. Upstairs: Wood Concrete
7. Mounting To: Subfloor Finished Floor
8. Sheetrock Thickness: \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_
9. Desired Wall Gap: \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_
10. Header Vertical Dimension: \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_
11. Header Wall Material: \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_
12. Entrance Location: A B C D
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
# Custom Gate Measurement Form
Thank you again for choosing Viewrail. To help us create your new custom gate, please provide accurate details as requested on this form. Once completed, snap a photo or scan this form, and email it to your Viewrail Team Member.
***
### 1. Measurement Options (Please Choose One)
{% columns %}
{% column %} :circle: **Option 1 - Desired Gate Width**
We build to your exact requested width; you'll set posts as needed
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %} :circle: **Option 2 - Post-to-Post Opening**
We'll size the gate to fit between your existing posts or supports.
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %} :circle: **Option 3 - Top of Stairs (Against Structure)**
For gates at the top of stairs placed against a wall or structure
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %} :circle: **Option 4 - Top of Stairs (Between Railings)**
For gates at the top of stairs fitting between two railings or posts.
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
***
### 2. Handrail Height and Style Selection
{% columns %}
{% column %}
**Handrail Height (Check One)**
:circle: **36"** :circle: **39"** :circle: **42"**
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
**Gate Top (Check One)**
:circle: **Dome** :circle: **Domeless**
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### Additional Notes or Comments
Use this space for any other details you want to include.
***
***
***
***
***
***
***
***
***
# 3D Scan: Finishes Sheet
Customer Name: \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_ Project Order Number: \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\
Project Manager: \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_ Project Designer: \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\
Project Address \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_
The below information is needed to begin the design process of your system using Viewrail’s 3D Scan services. It is critical that Viewrail understands the finished floor and finished wall (including features such as wood accent walls, stone, etc.) thicknesses where they will interact with your system
{% hint style="danger" %}
Any changes from the agreed upon listed below, without Viewrail’s knowledge, may result in an additional scan or the replacement of already produced materials at the customer’s cost.
{% endhint %}
**Critical Finish Details: Provide all measurements in fraction form to nearest 1/16”**
***
### FLIGHT: (Any Viewrail Stair System)
*(Skip if not relevant.)*
1. Lower Finish Floor Thickness (do not include sub floor thickness)\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_
1. I would like my Footer mounted to the: :square: FRAMING :square: FINISH
2. Upper Finish Floor Thickness (do not include sub floor thickness)\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_
1. I would like my Footer mounted to the: :square: FRAMING :square: FINISH
3. Finished Wall Thickness (indicate location; e.g. "back wall', "header", "left wall", etc.)
1. Location:\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_ Thickness:\_\_\_\_\_\_
2. Location:\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_ Thickness:\_\_\_\_\_\_
3. Location:\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_ Thickness:\_\_\_\_\_\_
4. Location:\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_ Thickness:\_\_\_\_\_\_
***
### RAILING: (Decks, Existing Stairs, Kneewalls, Etc.)
*(Skip if not relevant.)* Include all environment details interacting with Viewrail product. Material thickness, finish details, etc.
{% columns %}
{% column %}
\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_
\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_
\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_
\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_
\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_
\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_
{% endcolumn %}
{% column valign="middle" %}
**MOUNT SURFACE:**
:square: FRAMING :square: FINISH
**FINISH THICKNESS:**
**\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_**
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
***
I, \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_, agree that the finish measurements listed above is how the structure will be built. I understand that any deviation from what was approved that results in Viewrail remaking my product will be at my own expense.
Property Owner Print Name \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\
Property Owner Signature \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_ Date \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_
Non-Property Owner Print Name \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\
Non-Property Owner Signature \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_ Date \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\
Relationship to Customer (*i.e. builder, contractor, etc.)* \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_
# Glass Measure Location Guide
A. Finished Wall or Trim: \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\
B. Outside Corner: \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\
C. Inside Corner: \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\
D. Landing Nose: \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\
E. Side Edge of Tread: \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_
# Structural Analysis Form: Concrete Header
Download this page as a pdf and fill out to send back to our team.
**Order Number: \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_**
**Customer Name: \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_**
{% columns %}
{% column valign="middle" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
1. Material Floor
1. Material \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_
2. Thickness \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_
2. Subfloor
1. Material \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_
2. Thickness \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_
3. Concrete Slab
1. PSI \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_
2. Slab Height \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_
3. Features (Rebar, Post-Tensioning)
\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_
4. Finish Thickness: \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_
5. Are there additional structural\
components? (ex. supporting steel) \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_
6. If your header detail is not reflected in the detail shown, please provide an architectural detail of your header with specifications
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
***
Notes:
{% @formspree/formspree %}
***
# Straight Hockey Stick Stringer Installation Guide
Visit our YouTube channel to watch helpful installation videos youtube.com/viewrail
### Things to Know Before You Get Started
* Read over the provided material prior to the start of your installation
* Ensure to apply the supplied Threadlocker to all mechanical connections
Other Tools and Supplies Not Included in the Installation Kit
{% columns %}
{% column %}
Torque Wrench
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
1/2" to 3/8" Reducer
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
3/8" Socket
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
5/16" Socket
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column width="25%" %}
5/16" Hanger Bolt
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="25%" %}
T-10 & T-30 Torx Bits
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
ThreadLocker
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
T-30 Torx Socket
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
Other Tools and Supplies Not Included in the Installation Kit:
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Drill/Hammer Drill
* Impact Driver/Socket Wrench
* Pencil
* Level
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* T-Square
* 3/8" Wood Drill Bit (Wood Install Only)
* 9/16" Concrete Drill Bit (Concrete Install Only)
* 11/16" Forstner Bit (Wood Install Only)
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Wood Glue
* Concrete Epoxy (Concrete Install Only)
* Silicone Sealant
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
Locate the stringers and measure them to make sure they match the prints provided to you during the engineering approval process.
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
Locate the stickers that indicate the “Foot” & “Head” sides of the stringer
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
Identify and prepare the two halves of the hockey stick
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
Using the access hole & the provided 1/2"-13 x 2" bolts, attach the stringer tubes together:
Use a standard wrench at this point to tighten the bolts, but do not over tighten, some adjustability may be needed in following steps
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column width="50%" %}
Noting the “Foot” sticker, match the beveled Foot Plate holes to the Stringer holes
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="50%" %}
Use the 1/2" x 2" Flathead Bolts to attach the floor plate to the stringer. Torque to 70 lb-ft
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
Slide the cover plate over the stringer, paying attention to its orientation. The thin section will end up on top of the stringer
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
Noting the “Head” sticker, match the beveled Header Plate holes to the Stringer holes
Repeat Steps 5-6 for the Header Plate Bolts
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
Use the provided drawing(s) to mark the header plate dimensions
At this point, mark a predrill location for the slotted hole in your header plate
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
Predrill with a 3/8" drill bit
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
Lift the stringer into place, lining up the hole
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
Fasten the 1/2" x 31/2" Hex Lag through the middle slotted hole in the header plate to hold the stringer in place
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
Place all tread brackets on the lower stringer
Insert Christmas Tree Rivets to hold the tread brackets in place
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
Thread the 1/2" x 1" flange bolts through the tread bracket into the stringer in the marked order until they are finger tight.
Torque to 70 lb-ft
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
Identify one of the middle treads by comparing the labels on the bottom of each to the Wood Install sheet in the front of this packet
Place a single one of those treads on to one of the tread brackets about half-way up the stringer
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
Using the 5/16" x 21/2" RSS Screws, attach the tread to the tread bracket
During this step, alternate sides of the bracket when fastening screws. This will prevent the tread from pulling unevenly
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
Ensure the tread is level on the tread bracket both front to back and left to right
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
If not level left to right, shim the header plate to adjust
If not level front to back, shim the footer plate to adjust
Cut the excess shim away
Predrill through the header plate holes with a 3/8" drill bit
At this point, predrill all your header plate holes usinga 1/2" bit
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
Thread the 1/2" x 8" hex head bolts into place
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
Refer to the recommendation of the brand of epoxy you are using and predrill the correct sized holes for these 1 /2” threaded studs
Apply concrete epoxy in to the holes
Insert the threaded studs into each hole
Allow for the appropriate amount of curing time, for the epoxy, based off of the manufactured recommendations
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
**Stringer Floor Mount**\
Predrill your footer plate holes with a 3/8" drill bit
Thread the 1/2" x 5" head lags into place
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
**Stringer Floor Mount**\
Drill 9/16" holes for the concrete wedge anchors
Insert a concrete wedge anchor into each hole
Torque to 50 lb-ft
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
**Upper Bracket Cover Installation**\
Apply silicone sealant to the tops of the lags
Carefully slide the cover over the wall plate
\
**Lower Bracket Cover Installation**\
Locate the lower bracket cover
Apply silicon sealant to the tops of the lags or mounting hardware and install cover
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
Using a Torque Wrench, tighten the internal stringer connection bolts, that you installed in Step 4:
Torque to 70 lb-ft. Do this for all internal stringer connections
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
Using 5/16" - 18 x 1" mount & attach the Landing Plates
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
Position the landing making sure that the platform lines up with the tread bracket and landing plates
Using the 5/16" x 2 1/2" RSS Screws, attach the platform to the landing plates
During this step, alternate sides of the bracket when fastening screws. This will prevent the tread frompulling unevenly
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column width="50%" %}
Identify the first tread by comparing the labels on the bottom of each to the Wood Install Sheet in the front of this packet
Compare your first tread to the graphic above
If your tread looks like **Fig. A:** Continue to the next step
If your tread looks like **Fig. B:** Skip the next 2 steps
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="50%" %}
**THIS STEP IS ONLY FOR FIRST TREADS**\
**WITHOUT EXTRA ROUTING (FIG. A)**
Using the 5/16" x 21/2" hanger bolts, populate the first tread holes:
Mount the first tread on to its tread plate
The first tread mounts differently to the tread bracket than the rest of the treads
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
**THIS STEP IS ONLY FOR FIRST TREADS**\
**WITHOUT EXTRA ROUTING (FIG. A)**
Using a nut, tighten the tread to the tread bracket
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
Repeat Steps 15-17 to fasten the remaining treads, one at a time, onto the tread brackets\
\
First Tread **(Step 25 Fig B)**
If your tread looks like Fig B in Step 25, it will install similar to the rest of the treads
Due to the space constraint that will exist between the bottom of the first tread and the flooring, you will need to use a socket wrench & the provided Torx socket to drive the (4) 5/16" x 21/2" RSS screws
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
Once your treads are in place, locate the tread bracket cover magnets and place all 4 magnets on the head of the magnet screws which are already factory installed.\
(LED Treads will have 8 magnets) *Note: The magnets are strong enough to stick to the*\
*head of the screw and hold the tread bracket cover while the silicon (next step) dries.*
The first tread will not typically receive a bracket cover and will not have the additional routing
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
Next find your tread bracket covers and lay them out.
Locate and prep your silicone tube
Run a bead of silicone around the edge of the tread cover, or the edge of the routed section on the tread, whichever you prefer
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
Set the bracket cover in place. The magnets in the treads will hold the cover tightly, and the silicone will prevent rattling and create a tight fit
Wipe off any excess silicone that might squeeze out
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### Congratulations!
You’re done with this section.
\
We’d love to see your work! Snap a few pics with your phone and send them to\
. Thanks for choosing Viewrail. Enjoy your new installation!
# Steel First Install
FLIGHT Mono Steel First Install
{% embed url="" %}
### Tools Needed for This Install
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Come Along Winch
* Saw Horses
* Level
* Tape Measure
* Speed & Carpenter Square
* Pencil/Marker
* Dead Blow Hammer
* Drill/Impact Driver
* Hammer Drill\*
* 11/64" & 1/2" Wood Drill Bit\*
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Concrete Drill Bit\*
* Phillips Head Driver Bit
* Torque Wrench
* 1/2" to 3/8" Reducer
* 3/4" Socket
* 5/16" Hex Bit Socket
* T-30 Torx Socket
* 1/2"-13 Tap & Tap Wrench
* Painter’s Tape & Silicone
\**If Applicable*
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### Things to Know Before You Get Started
* Read over the provided material prior to the start of your installation
* Many of our products are aided by a second or third set of hands, in some cases it can be a necessity. Plan accordingly.
* Ensure to apply the supplied Threadlocker to all mechanical connections
### FLIGHT Mono Installation
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Using the provided shop drawings, mark the center line from wall indicated in the shop drawings as “WALL TO CENTER OF STRINGER”
* Next use the same shop drawings to mark out the top of your header plate - This measurement will be called out either from the upper subfloor or finished floor down to top of header plate
* Line up the Header Plate Cover with the mark you made
* Trace out the hole pattern of the plate onto the header
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Using an 11/64" drill bit, predrill directly in the center of the center slot you outlined in STEP 1
{% hint style="info" %}
Note: If your FLIGHT system has LED lighting and the shop drawings indicate that the power is to be run from the upper floor down to the LED controller inside the stringer tube, then boar out the larger bottom center hole and pull Romex through. It is important to not have any power running to the line at this stage
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
While there are many styles of concrete header, the most common is concrete pan decking with an I-Beam as support with welded steel backing - Predrill the correct sized hole in the center of the slot you
outlined in STEP 1
{% hint style="info" %}
*Note: If your FLIGHT system has LED lighting and the shop drawings indicate that the power is to be run from the upper floor down to the LED controller inside the stringer tube, then drill out the larger bottom center hole and pull Romex through. It is important to not have any power running to the line at this stage.*
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
**LED Lit Tread Systems Only**
* If your FLIGHT system has LED lighting and the shop drawings indicate that the power is to be run from the lower floor up to the LED Driver inside the stringer tube, then locate and place the foot plate in the called out location in your shop drawings
* Mark and drill out one of the larger holes in the center of the plate and pull Romex through from below
{% hint style="info" %}
Note: It is important to not have any power running to the line at this stage.
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Bring the stringer into the environment to unpack
* Look for the “Header” and “Footer” labels marked on the packaging
* Unpack the stringer and set it on saw horses
{% hint style="info" %}
Note: Protect the finish. Put either a blanket or cardboard between the saw horses and the stringer tube to ensure the finish remains blemish free.
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* It may be necessary to use a 1/2"-13 Tap to clear any extra powder coat from the treads of the holes before\
proceeding to the next steps
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Use the 1/2" x 2" Flathead Bolts to attach the Footer Plate to the stringer
* Torque to 70 lb-ft following the pattern above
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Use the 1/2" x 2" Flathead Bolts to attach the Header Plate to the stringer
* Torque to 70 lb-ft following the pattern above
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* With the help of others, flip the stringer on to the opposite side (FIG. A)
* It may be necessary to use a 1/2"-13 Tap to clear any extra powder coat from the treads of the holes before proceeding to the next steps (FIG. B)
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Place all but the first and last tread brackets on to the stringer lining up the 2 small holes on the inside of the brackets (FIG. A)
* Secure the tread brackets using the provided clips (FIG. B)
* Ensure each bracket is aligned and square with the stringer tube (FIG. C)
* Thread the 1/2" x 1" flange bolts through the tread bracket and into the stringer in the marked order, until they are finger tight - Torque to 70 lb-ft following the pattern above (FIG. D)
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
**Systems with a “Stringer Reveal”**
* Stringer Reveal: When the Header Plate extends below the header, and the hardware that holds the plate to the stringer would be visible after installation
* This will be indicated in your shop drawings
* Secure the provided Header Plate Cover to the Header
* Plate using either tape or silicon and a clamp and let dry
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Lift the stringer into place, lining up the hole
* We recommend using either a pulley system or a Come Along Winch and brace material to hold the stringer in place while fastening
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
**Wood Header**
* Fasten the 3/8" x 5" Lag through the middle slotted hole in the header plate to hold the stringer in place
**Concrete Header**
* While there are many styles of concrete header, the most common is a concrete deck pan with an I-Beam as support and steel plating welded on for backing
* Secure our header plate with the through bolt hardware of your choice
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Place a level on to one of the tread brackets about half way up the stringer
* Ensure the tread bracket(s) are level left to right and front to back
* Optional: Use multiple levels for increased accuracy
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* If not level left to right, shim the footer plate to adjust
* Cut the excess shim away
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Install the top tread bracket using the hardware and the process found in STEPS 8 & 9
* Install the bottom tread bracket using the same hardware as you did on the top tread but only finger tighten the bolts as this tread bracket will most likely have to be removed in a later step
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Locate the top and bottom treads and place them on the top and bottom tread brackets
{% hint style="info" %}
Note: The images above are of the Huber board constructed temporary treads that are sent with our ‘Steel First’ sales, shipping & installation method. If your order was shipped complete, meaning you received your stringer steel and all of your treads/platforms/landings together, your treads/ platforms/landings will be finished per your request during the order stage
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Ensure that the bottom and top rise measurements are within 3/16" of the Tread Rise measurement found on the\
Customer Elevation page of the shop drawings
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* If the rise from the top tread to the upper floor is outside of 3/16" of the prescribed rise, loosen the center lag and adjust the header plate up or down as needed
* Once it is where it needs to be, tighten the lag screw
* Recheck that the tread brackets are level - see STEP 13
{% hint style="info" %}
Note: If you used painter’s tape to hold the Header Plate Cover, please remove the tape during this step
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
**First Tread is too Low**
* If the rise from the lower floor to the first tread is short by more than 3/16", shim the foot plate by the needed amount in order to raise the system up
**First Tread is too High**
* If the rise from the lower floor to the first tread is more than 3/16" from the prescribed measurement, you will need to contact your Viewrail Project Engineer
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* If the stair system will be close to a wall, it is a good idea to check for a consistent distance between the stringer and the wall
* Check at multiple spots along the stringer and wall
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* It may be necessary to remove the bottom tread bracket in order to accomplish the following steps
* Select one of the holes in the center front row of the foot plate and drill a pilot hole using an 11/64" drill bit
* Fasten the foot plate using a 3/8" x 5" Lag until snug
{% hint style="info" %}
Note: It is important to verify that the system is still plumb, make any adjustments if needed before proceeding further.
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Predrill the remaining holes on the foot plate
* Fasten the remaining hardware into the foot plate
* Replace the bottom tread bracket, using the provided hardware - Torque to 70 lb-ft
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* At this point you can predrill the remaining holes on the header plate:\
Lag Bolts - Predrill utilizing a 11/64" drill bit\
Through Bolts - Predrill utilizing a 1/2" drill bit
* Fasten the remaining hardware into the header plate
{% hint style="info" %}
Header Note: If using 1/2" x 8" hex head through bolts on the header plate, thread the bolts into place, so they are finger tight, then Torque to 70 lb-ft.
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* It may be necessary to remove the bottom tread bracket in order to accomplish the following steps
* Drill a pilot hole in one of the center front row holes of the foot plate - Refer to the wedge anchor manufacturer’s\
documentation for the concrete bit diameter to use
* Insert a concrete wedge anchor and torque to 50 lb-ft - Tapcons can be used as well
{% hint style="info" %}
Note: It is important to verify that the system is still plumb, make any adjustments if needed before proceeding further
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Predrill the remaining holes on the foot plate
* Fasten the remaining hardware into the foot plate - Torque to 50 lb-ft
* Replace the bottom tread bracket, using the provided hardware - Torque to 70 lb-ft
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* At this point you can predrill the remaining holes on the header plate
* Fasten the remaining hardware into the header plate
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
***
### Get Help from Us
Is this not the product you're looking for? Troubleshoot your issue by contacting our customer service team. [866-432-0541](tel:8664320541) or
# Steel Frame Install
This is an install guide for the cantilever frame of the staircase.
### Tools & Supplies for This Installation
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Right Angle Drill
* Hammer Drill (Concrete Header or Footer)
* Impact Driver
* Torque Wrench
* Socket Wrench
* Pencil/Marker
* 11/64" Wood Drill Bit
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Concrete Drill Bit (Concrete Header or Footer)
* 9/16"Sockets
* T-30 Torx Socket
* Socket Extension
* 3/16" Allen Wrench
* Level
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Framing Square
* Measuring Tape
* Table Saw
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### Things to Know Before You Get Started
* Before you get started, review your print set, specifically reviewing the steel exploded assembly print(s) and the wood exploded assembly print(s)
* Read over the provided material prior to the start of your installation
* This is, at minimum, a two person job
* Viewrail Glass systems and fittings are designed to have a 1" gap between panels of glass
### Install Steps
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Per the provided plans, locate the called out Finished Floor to the top of Plywood Header Template measurement & mark where the template will be placed
* Hold the Plywood Template in place, drive 5 wood screws to secure the template to the header
*Note on Blocking: Plywood Templates must be mounted directly to either double LVL or Triple 2x. If the wall has a compressible surface, e.g. drywall, it must be cut away before hand.*
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Predrill the 2 outside holes in the Plywood Header Template using a 11/64" drill bit
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* If finished flooring is not yet installed, add subfloor material equal to the finished floor thickness (X) beneath\
the stringer feet and under tread pans 1 and 2
*Note: X = thickness of the finished floor*
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Line up the top of the Plywood Stringer Template with the top of the Plywood Header Template
* While it is held in place, secure it to the wall backing using wood screws - it is not necessary to populate every hole, just enough to secure it for now
*Note on Blocking: Plywood Templates must be mounted directly to either double LVL or Triple 2x. If the wall has a compressible surface, e.g. drywall, it must be cut away before hand.*
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Place steel stringers on sawhorses
* Attach the header brackets as shown using the provided 3/8" x 1" bolts
* Tighten bolts just until snug
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Hoist the stringers & line them up with the large holes predrilled in the Plywood Header Template
* Fix them in place with one 3/8" x 5" SPAX Screw each in the predrilled locations from **STEP 2**
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* For installations up against a wall, align and secure the steel stringer to the wood template using the provided 3/8"-7 x 4" Hex Head Lag Screws and washers
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Check for plumb on all 3 axis for each stringer
* Shim if necessary
{% hint style="warning" %}
It is imperative that the stringers are\
level & plumb, even if your wall/floor\
is not.
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Take this time to ensure that the measurement of the top rise is correct
* The measurement taken in this step should be 1" long of the Rise measurement on the provided plans - This is to account for the thickness of the finished wood tread to be placed in a later step
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Collect all Tread Pans and Tread Pan Gaskets and attach them together
*Note: Each Tread Pan requires gaskets. Tread Pans are labeled with a letter and number. The letter indicates the stair*\
*system, & the number indicates position.*
Tread Pan
Description
Gaskets Used
_01
First Tread Pan
(2)A, (3) B
_02
Second Tread Pan
(2)C, (3)B
_03
Intermediate Tread Pan
(2)D, (3)B
_04
Top Tread Pan
(2)D
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Place the First Tread Pan, (e.g. A01, B01, C01 etc.)
* Thread (4) of the provided 3/8" -16 x 11/4" set screws from the outside of the free standing stringer
* Thread on (4) of the provided 3/8" -16 Hex Head Serrated Flange Nuts onto each set screw from underneath
* DO NOT tighten bolts all the way down in this step
*Notes: On stringers that are not butted up to a wall, it will be easier to insert set screws from the outside. Due to the powder-coating process, you may need to run a 3/8"-16 bolt through the threaded holes on the stringers before*\
*mounting the tread pan, to clear the threads.*
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Using (4) 3/8"-16 x 3/4" Hex Head Bolts secure the wall side of the tread pan to the metal stringer
* DO NOT tighten bolts all the way down in this step
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Ensure the tread pan is level and recessed 1/16" from the top and front edges of the steel stringers
* Torque the hardware placed in STEPS 11 & 12 to 30 lb-ft
*Note: It may be necessary to use an socket extension to reach the nuts and bolts under the tread pan*
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Insert a 3/8" -16 x 2 II Hex Head Bolt through (2) 3/8" Washers and thread through the first Vedera Pin mounting location pictured above
*Note: Ensure that the 3/8"-16 x 2" Hex Head Bolt sticks out from the steel stringer by 1 3/8"*
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Slide the Second Tread Pan (e.g. A02, B02, C03, etc.) into position behind the tread pan installed in the previous steps
* Exposed Stringers: Use (3) 3/8" -16 x 2" Hex Head Bolts secure the pan, through the (2) slots in the side of the pan, into the stringer from under the pan\*
* Wall Mounted Stringers: Use (2) 3/8" -16 x 3/4" Hex Head Bolts secure the pan, through the (2) slots in the side of the pan, into the stringer from under the pan
* DO NOT tighten bolts all the way down in this step
*Note: Ensure that the (2) 3/8"-16 x 2"*\
*Hex Head Bolts stick out from the steel stringer by 1 3/8"*
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Using (3) of the provided 3/8" -16 x 2" Hex Head Serrated Flange Bolts secure the pan, through the (3) slots in front of the pan as shown above
* DO NOT tighten bolts all the way down in this step
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Using (3) of the provided 3/8" -16 x 2" Hex Head Serrated Flange Bolts secure the pan, through the (3) slots in front of the pan as shown above
* DO NOT tighten bolts all the way down in this step
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Slide the Third Tread Pan (e.g. A03, B03, C03, etc.) into position behind the tread pan installed in the previous steps
* **Exposed Stringers**: Use (2) 3/8" -16 x 2" Hex Head Bolts secure the pan, through the (2) slots in the side of the pan, into the stringer from under the pan\*
* Wall Mounted Stringers: Use (2) 3/8" -16 x 3/4" Hex Head Bolts secure the pan, through the (2) slots in the side of the pan, into the stringer from under the pan
* DO NOT tighten bolts all the way down in this step
*Note: Ensure that the (2) 3/8"-16 x 2" Hex Head Bolts stick out from the steel stringer by 1 3/8"*
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Using (3) of the provided 3/8" -16 x 2II Hex Head Serrated Flange Bolts secure the pan, through the (3) slots in front\
of the pan as shown above
* DO NOT tighten bolts all the way down in this step
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Slide the Polycarbonate Shims into place between the Second and Third Tread Pan
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column width="50%" %}
* Return back to the Second Tread Pan and ensure that it is level and recessed 1/16: from the top and front edges of the steel stringers
* Torque the all (7) 3/8" bolts installed from STEPS 14-16, to 30 lb-ft
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="50%" %}
* Repeat STEPS 17-20 for the remaining intermediate tread pans (e.g. A04) Following the pattern below
*e.g. Install 4th Tread Pan & square it up*\
*Torque down 3th Tread Pan*\
*Install 5th Tread Pan & square it up*\
*Torque down 4th Tread Pan*\
*Install 6th Tread Pan & square up*\
*Torque down 5th Tread Pan, etc.*
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Now move up to the header area and predrill the (4) remaining holes through the Plywood Header Template using a 11/64" drill bit
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Install the top Tread Pan (e.g. A04, B04, C04, etc.) just like the others using the same hardware
* Leave hardware loose for now
*Note: Ensure that the (2) 3/8"-16 x 2" Hex Head Bolts stick out from the steel stringer by 1 3/8"*
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Slide the Polycarbonate Shims into place between the top most intermediate tread pan (e.g. A03) and the Top Tread Pan (e.g. A04)
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Torque the all (7) 3/8" bolts installed from STEP 24, to 30 lb-ft
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Cut the provided Header Frame Brace to the measurement indicated above (X)
* Install it into place using wood screws -This will be used to attached the finished Anti-Run wood in a later step
*Note: Make sure to center the wood in between the Metal Header Brackets and 1/16" from the bottom of the steel stringer itself. The steel stringer sitting lower than the wood Header Frame Brace.*
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Secure the first and second Tread Pans using (10) of the provided 3/8"-7 x 4" Hex Head Lag Screws and washers
* Torque to 30 lb-ft
{% hint style="info" %}
If you received all of your order\
including the finished wood treads and\
glass panels, **skip ahead to STEP 36**
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
For orders where the steel arrives first, and is installed before the finished wood & glass arrives on site, cut 2x12 lumber to the correct tread width and mount them onto each tread pan. Secure it with wood screws from underneath the tread pans. This prevents slips since moisture or debris on bare tread pans can be hazardous.
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Slide a Nylon Bushing over each exposed bolt
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Using your shop drawings and the routed panel identification label on each of the plywood templates to\
find the first panel
* Have a partner hold it in place while you do the following two steps
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Side the Vedera Gaskets on to the exposed threads of the bolts followed by the Vedera Plates
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Assemble the rubber O-Ring & the Slide a Vedera Glass Pin End Cap (Male) parts
* Place one of the assemblies on each bolt
* Tighten the 9/16" nuts with a socket wrench
* Repeat for all remaining wood templates
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
At this point, the Steel First portion of the installation is complete. This stair system will act as a sturdy set of temporary stairs for the remainder of the overall project. The following steps of this instruction manual, will be used once you have received the finished wood treads & glass panels and are ready to install them to finish the job.
*Note: It is suggested to attach some 2x4’s to the top of the panels to create a more ridged structure. This will act as a safety railing during the remainder of the overall project*
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
# Stack Stair & Tread Install
This is an install guide for the cantilever frame of the staircase.
### Tools & Supplies for This Installation
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Right Angle Drill
* Hammer Drill (Concrete Header or Footer)
* Impact Driver
* Belt Sander
* Pin Nailer
* Hand Router w/ 1/8" Round Over Bit
* Glass Suction Cups (Provided)
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Torque Wrench
* Black Felt Marker
* Level
* Measuring Tape
* 3/8" & 11/64" Wood Drill Bits
* 9/16" Sockets
* Concrete Drill Bit (Concrete Header or Footer)
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Phillips Bit
* \#2 Robertson Bits
* Bar Clamps
* Caulk Gun
* LocTite® Adhesive (Provided)
* TiteBond® Wood Glue
* Silicone Sealant
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### Things to Know Before You Get Started
* Before you get started, review your print set, specifically reviewing the steel exploded assembly print(s) and the wood exploded assembly print(s)
* Read over the provided material prior to the start of your installation
* This is, at minimum, a two person job
* Viewrail Glass systems and fittings are designed to have a 1" gap between panels of glass
### Install Steps
{% columns %}
{% column %}
*If your Stack order was structured so that the stringers, tread pans, temporary treads, and plywood (glass) templates were shipped and installed first, those temporary components will need to be dismantled before continuing. Remove the plywood templates, glass mounting hardware, and*\
*the 2x12 temporary treads. Otherwise, if you received the entire order as one complete shipment and did not install temporary treads or railing, proceed to the next step.*
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Drill a hole for the LED harness to pass through
*Note: This hole can be in the floor below the first tread or through the header. The LED Wireless Receivers and the fuses on the 3-Wire Connectors should be accessible for replacement or adjustment. Usually stored in a nearby closet or cabinet.*
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
• Before commencing any installation or maintenance work, disconnect power at the breaker box and ensure that it cannot be re-connected inadvertently
{% hint style="danger" %}
A Licensed Electrician is required for\
the following two steps. Incorrectly\
connecting the system to power may\
result in; damage to the components,\
electric shock, fire or death.
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Connect the Red & Black wires from the LED Power Supply to the “V -” connections on the LED Controller
* Connect the Stringer Harness Pigtail to the LED Controller - Red to “V+”, Black to “W” & White to “C”
* Secure the whole assembly the structure near the hole you drilled in STEP 2
*Note: You can use double sided tape to secure the LED Controller to the Power Supply.*
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Connect to the 120V AC line to the LED Power Supply
**Small Power Supply**
Power Driver
Line
Live/ACL
Black (to)
Black
Neutral/CAN
White (to)
Green
Ground/FG/PE
Green (to)
Copper
**Large Power Supply**
Power Driver
Line
Live/ACL
Brown (to)
Black
Neutral/CAN
Blue (to)
White
Ground/FG/PE
Green (to)
Copper
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Run the loomed stringer harness through the round holes in tread pans A on the glass side of the system
* Make sure that the tread connector harnesses can reach through the rectangular hole in the tread pans B
* Connect the Stringer Harness to the pigtail coming off of the LED Controller
*Note: The Stringer Harness is designed to allow multiple sections to be connected together to form a longer harness.*
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Dry fit the tread to ensure fitment
* Starting at the top tread, apply construction adhesive to the front and top of the top most Steel Pan
* Run the attached LED harness through one of the large\
openings
* Firmly press the tread rise & run assemblies to the glued\
surfaces
*Note: Take note of any need to scribe the any edge of the tread that comes into contact with the structure to ensure a*\
*professional fit and finish.*
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
• Use 3\
/4\
II wood screws to secure the rise & run assembly\
to the tread pan from underneath\
Note: These screws are only meant to hold the tread in place\
while the construction adhesive cures. Be careful not to over\
tighten them.
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
• Using a 1/4" drill bit, drill 4 holes, 2 per side, through the bottom of the riser exactly 1/2" from the lip of the wide openings in the tread pan
These pilot holes will be used in a later step to secure the lower tread run to the rise of the tread above
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Plug in the harness that you threaded through the tread pan into the Main Stringer Harness
* You can take this time to test the functionality of the LED strip in the tread by powering up the line
* Disconnect power to the line to proceed
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Moving to the next tread pan down in the system, dry fit the tread and make any scribe cuts needed
* Apply construction adhesive to the front and top of the top most Steel Pan as well as a very small amount to the edge of the tread above where it comes into contact with the one you are currently installing
* Run the attached LED harness through one of the large openings and firmly press the tread rise & run assemblies to the glued surfaces
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Move back underneath the stair system and locate the 1/4" holes you drilled into the bottom of the top tread in STEP 9
* Use a 11/64" drill bit and continue drilling the pilot holes into the 2nd from the top tread to a depth of 1 3/4"
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Drive (4) 1 1/2" Pocket Hole Screws, through the pilot holes drilled in the previous step to secure the lower tread’s run to the upper tread’s rise
*Note: These screws are only meant to hold the tread in place while the construction adhesive cures. Be careful not to over*\
*tighten them.*
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Use 3/4" wood screws to secure the rise & run assembly to the tread pan from underneath
*Note: These screws are only meant to hold the tread in place while the construction adhesive cures. Be careful not to over*\
*tighten them.*
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Using a 1/4" drill bit, drill 4 holes, 2 per side, through the bottom of the riser exactly 1/2" from the lip of the wide openings in the tread pan
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Plug in the harness that you threaded through the tread pan into the Main Stringer Harness
* You can take this time to test the functionality of the LED strip in the tread by powering up the line
* Disconnect power to the line to proceed
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
• Repeat STEPS 11-16 for the remaining tread rise and run assemblies following the pattern below\
e.g.
* *Tread 13: Dry Fit - Scribe Cut - Glue (Step 11)*
* *Tread 13: LED Harness - Place Tread (Step 11)*
* *Tread 13: Drill Bottom 4 Holes (Step 12)*
* *Tread 13: Secure w/ Screws in bottom holes (Step 13)*
* *Tread 13: Secure with remaining screws (Step 14)*
* *Tread 13: Drill Bottom 4 Holes (Step 15)*
* *Tread 13: Connect LED Harness (Step 16)*
* *Tread 14: Dry Fit - Scribe Cut - Glue (Step 11)*
* *Tread 14: LED Harness - Place Tread (Step 11)*
* *Tread 14: etc.*
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Use construction adhesive to secure the Frame Brace to the bottom of the 2nd tread pan, flush with the bottom\
lip of the tread pan
* Let the adhesive cure before moving forward
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Add more construction adhesive to the top, rear portion of an Anti-Run
* With help, position the Anti-Run under the second tread
* Fix with bar clamps
*Note: Work from the bottom and move to the top*
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Use (5) 3/4" wood screws to secure the anti-run to the tread pan from inside of the tread pan
*Note: These screws are only meant to hold the tread in place while the construction adhesive cures. Be careful not to over tighten them.*
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
{% hint style="warning" %}
Do not use construction adhesive if your LED power supply is installed inside the 1st tread. This will allow for future maintenance if needed.
{% endhint %}
* Add construction adhesive to the rear, lower portion of an Anti-Rise so that it will come into contact with the Frame Brace once set into position under the second tread pan
* Press into place
* Using at least 3 trim or pin nails, secure the Anti-Rise to the Frame Brace as shown
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Install the remaining Anti-Rise and Run Assemblies
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Check the alignment of the all the wood treads and anti-treads
* Use a belt sander if there are any that stick out
* The Tread Gaskets applied in the next step will cover any raw edge made here
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Stick on the Tread Gaskets on to sides of each tread
* Slide a Nylon Bushing over each exposed bolt
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Using your shop drawings and the identification label on each of the glass panels to find the first panel
* Have a partner hold it in place while you do the following two steps
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Slide the Vedera Gaskets on to the exposed threads of the bolts followed by the Vedera Plates
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Assemble the rubber O-Ring & the Slide a Vedera Glass Pin End Cap (Male) parts
* Place one of the assemblies on each bolt
* Hand tighten a nut on to each hanger bolt
* There will be play in the exact positioning of the glass panel, this will allow you to make adjustments to the\
alignment of the panels
* Repeat for all remaining glass panels
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Hand tighten a nut on to each bolt, while doing your best to maintain plumbness of the glass panel
* There will be play in the exact positioning of the glass panel, this will allow you to make adjustments in a later step
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Using a torque wrench and a 9/16" socket head, tighten the first and last nut on the glass pin to 23 lb ft
* Do not tighten all of them, as this will make it easier if you need to readjust the fitment once all the other glass\
panels are installed
**Repeat STEPS 25-29 for each panel on**\
**your run**
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Once all the panels are in place, ensure that each is aligned with it’s neighbors
* Unless otherwise specified on the provided plans, the system is designed to have a 1" gap between panels
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Using a torque wrench and a 9/16" socket head, tighten all the remaining nuts on the Vedera Pins to 23 lb ft
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Identify and prepare the Vedera wood covers
* Although the rubber O rings will provide a snug fit in the predrilled holes for the wood covers, it is recommended to use silicone on the face of the pin around the bolt hole in order to provide additional strength
* Attach the wood covers onto each pin
* These will fit snugly and could require soft taps to place
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* It will be necessary to program the Kinetic Wall Switch in order to test the system
* Press and hold the button on the LED Wireless Receiver (found inside the access panel in the stringer tube) until\
the Red LED starts to blink slowly
* Press the UP direction on Kinetic Wall Switch
* Repeat the process for adding additional remotes
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Operate the remotes to test functionality of the system
* Press Up (A) on the switch to turn the lights on
* Press Down (B) on the switch to turn the lights off
* Press & Hold Up (A) on the switch to increase or decrease the brightness
* Press & Hold Down (B) on the switch to adjust the color temperature between Cool White and Warm White
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
*The wall mounted remote switch can be installed into a standard gang box or just simply stuck to the wall with double sided adhesive tape.*
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Search for the CleanLife app in the Apple App Store or in the Google Play Store, or use the QR Code above for a direct link
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Open the app and create a free account
* Once account has been created, press the “+” button
* Select “Add Device”
* The app will automatically scan for nearby devices
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Follow the in-app instructions to complete the setup and configuration
* Search for the CleanLife skill on Amazon Alexa, or Google Assistant or Apple Home for additional smart\
home automation control
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
# Steel First Install
### Things to Know Before You Get Started
* Read over the provided material prior to the start of your installation
* Viewrail Glass systems and fittings are designed to have a 1" gap between\
panels of glass
* Many of our products are aided by a second or third set of hands, in some\
cases it can be a necessity. Plan accordingly.
FLIGHT Cantilever can include LED products, See our [LED information page](/install/led-system-reference) for more information about Viewrail's LED Systems
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Sister LVLs to both sides of main LVL stud per chart using polyurethane foam adhesive and 4" GRK screws\
every 6" alternating
* Tie header plate into house framing as required for wall load; consult SEOR if needed
* Extend footer/header plates as needed for full bracket attachment
* Fasten LVL to top and bottom plates with full-length angle brackets
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Locate the provided plywood Wall Templates
* Cut out the Bow Ties out of the Wall Templates
* Using wood screws, mount wall templates based off if the locations provided in the shop drawings
* Insert a Bow Ties between each Wall Template
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
**Wall Bracket Installation**
* Based on the locations of the plywood Wall Templates, position the Wall Brackets - They should sit ≈1/2" below the top edge of the template
* Ensure they are flush with the studs, error on the side of caution - If needed and recess them by 1/16"
* Drilling holes for (6) 3/4" through-bolts to go through the reinforced wall studs
{% hint style="info" %}
*Note: The Wall Brackets are able to be offset by up to 3 hole locations depending on need. Each pair of Wall Brackets must be secured with no less than 6 through-bolts.*
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
**Wall Bracket Installation (Continued)**
* Use (6) 3/4" x 6 1/2" bolts, (12) 3/4" washers, (6) 3/4" nuts per wall stud
* Torque down to 60 lb-ft
{% hint style="info" %}
*Note: You will receive (2) additional Wall Brackets with smaller mounting holes. These are uses in instances where through bolting isn’t possible. You will use (6) 1/2"-6 x 31/2" Hex Head Lag Screws.*
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Add blocking in wall where needed - anywhere the Wall Plate extends >4 inches past a Wall Bracket
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
**Systems with Mid-Landings**
* The landing will utilize a Landing Stabilizer
* It must either be secured to a reinforced stud or blocking if it ends up being between studs
{% hint style="info" %}
*Note: The stabilizer can be orientated with the attachment point pointing towards the landing or away as shown above.*
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
**Wall Plate Installation**
* With the help of a partner, position a steel wall plate on top of the Plywood Wall Template and secure it with (2) 3/8" x 5" Washer Head Lag Screws
* Mark the drill locations for a minimum of (8) fasteners
{% hint style="info" %}
*Notes: There is an “UP” arrow on each plate, make sure to orientate it correctly. The ideal connection point for all(8) fasteners is through-bolted into the Wall Brackets, but that will not be always possible. In cases where it isn’t, use 5"*\
*Lag screws to secure them into the reinforced studs orwall blocking.*
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
**Wall Plate Installation (Continued)**
* Predrill marked locations
* Secure the Wall Plates using the following
* **Wall Plate to Wall Bracket:**\
(1\*) 1/2" - 13 x 2" Hex Head Flange Bolt\
(1\*) 1/2" x 1" Flat Washer\
(1\*) 1/2" - Grade 8 Yellow Zinc Nylon Insert Nut
* **Wall Plate to Wood:**\
(1\*) 3/8" x 5" Washer Head Lag Screw
* Ensure the plates are level and plumb\
*\*Qty per fastener connection - Total of 8 fastener connections per Tread Wall Plate*
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
**Wall Plate Installation (Continued)**\
*If your system has multiple landings as in this example you will be able to identify the Wall Pates by their “Tag” and comparing that to the shop drawings. This tag can either be left attached to the plate and hidden in the wall build out if there is room, or cut off.*
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
Inner Arm Installation\
• Using (8) 1/2" - 13 x 1' Flat Head Cap Screws, install the Inner Arms to the Tread Wall Plates
{% hint style="info" %}
*Note: Shimming may be necessary to ensure the Inner Arms are level. This will be discussed in the next step.*
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
**Inner Arm Installation (Continued)**
* Place a level on top of the Inner Arm
* Add Shims in between the Inner Arm plates and the Tread Wall Plates as needed
{% hint style="info" %}
*Note: There are two different thicknesses of shims. Only Use*\
*one shim per location, do not stack them.*
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
**Adjustable Arm Installation**
* Place the Adjustable Arm over the Inner Arm
* Slide it out to the specified distance called out in the shop drawings
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
**Adjustable Arm Installation (Continued)**
* Using (4) 3/8"-16 x 11/4" Carriage Bolts and (4) 3/8"-16 Serrated Flange Locknut, secure the Adjustable Arm over the Inner Arm - Do not tighten them yet, just get them started
* Slide Arm Gaskets in between the Adjustable Arm and the Inner Arm - It will hook over all (4) carriage bolts
* Tighten all (4) hardware fasteners
{% hint style="info" %}
Note: Do this for all of the arms in the landings if applicable.
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
**Landing Brace Installation (If Applicable)**
* If your system has a landing, it may be have been designed with a brace to better reinforce landing
* Position the Landing Brace against the ends of the Tread Arm assemblies with gaskets between each
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
**Landing Brace Installation (Continued)**
* Secure the Landing Brace to the Tread Arms using (2) 3/4" x 2" Hex Head Flange Bolt per Tread Arm
* Secure the Landing Brace to the wall using the following
* Landing Brace to Wall Bracket:\
1/2" - 13 x 2" Hex Head Flange Bolt\
1/2" x 1" Flat Washer\
1/2" - Grade 8 Yellow Zinc Nylon Insert Nut
* Landing Brace to Wood:\
3/8" x 5" Washer Head Lag Screw
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Remove the plywood wall templates that were installed in STEP 2
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Using your shop drawings and the routed panel identification label on each of the plywood railing templates to find the first panel
* Have a partner hold it in place while you do the following\
two steps
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Thread a 3/8" - 16 x 11/2" Hex Head Flange Bolt through a Vedera Glass Pin, a Nylon Bushing, the plywood and into the Tread Arm
* Tighten the bolt securely
{% hint style="info" %}
*Note: If the bolt holes on the ends of the Tread Arms do not align with the holes in the Plywood Templates, then*\
*additional shimming of the Tread Arms will be necessary.*
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
At this point, the Steel First portion of the installation is complete. This stair system will act as a sturdy set of temporary stairs for the remainder of the overall project.\
The following steps of this instruction manual, will be used once you have received the finished wood treads &\
glass panels and are ready to install them to finish the job.
{% hint style="info" %}
Note: It is suggested to attach some 2x4’s to the top of the panels to create a more ridged structure. This will act as a safety railing during the remainder of the overall project
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
If your Cantilever order was structured so that the Wall Plates, Tread Arms, Plywood (glass) Templates and hardware were shipped and installed first, those temporary components will need to be dismantled before continuing. Remove the glass mounting hardware and Plywood Templates. Otherwise, if you received the entire order as one complete shipment and did not install temporary treads or railing, proceed to the next step.
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Build out the wall using 3/4" Plywood
* Leave ≈1" gap around the Wall Plates to allow for the running of the LED harness
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
**LED Installation (If Applicable)**
* Before commencing any installation or maintenance work, disconnect power at the breaker box and ensure that it cannot be re-connected inadvertently
{% hint style="danger" %}
A Licensed Electrician is required for the following incorrectly connecting the system to power may result in; damage to the components, electric shock, fire or death. All wire connections should always meet your local electrical code requirements
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
**LED Installation (Continued)**
* Connect the Red & Black wires from the LED Power Supply to the “V -” connections on the LED Controller
* Connect the Stringer Harness Pigtail to the LED
* Controller - Red to “V+”, Black to “W” & White to “C”
* Secure the whole assembly the structure either to header or the floor depending on your configuration
{% hint style="info" %}
Note: You can use double sided tape to secure the LED Controller to the Power Supply.
{% endhint %}
{% hint style="info" %}
Note: Use of a junction box is required for all exposed wiring connections.
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
**LED Installation (Continued)**
* Connect to the 120V AC line to the LED Power Supply
**Small Power Supply**
***
### Get Help from Us
Is this not the product you're looking for? Troubleshoot your issue by contacting our customer service team. [866-432-0541](tel:8664320541) or
# Angle Surface Mount Post Install
Express Angle Surface Mount Post Installation Guide
### Tools Needed for this Installation
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Measuring Tape
* Chalk Line Tool
* Speed Square
* Pencil
* Drill
* 13/64" Metal Drill Bit
* Hand Rivet Tool (Provided)
* T-30 Torx Bit (Provided)
* Post Level (Provided)
* String (Provided)
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="33.33333333333333%" %}
* Phillips Screw Driver
* 3
/16" Allen Wrench (Provided)
* 5
/32" Allen Wrench (Provided)
* Painter’s Tape
* Miter Saw w/Aluminum Cutting Blade
* Dead Blow Hammer
* Bar Clamps
* Cable Cutter (Provided)
* Cable Crimper (Provided)
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="33.33333333333333%" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### Things to Know Before You Get Started
* Read over the provided material prior to the start of your installation.
* Make sure you have all of the posts, brackets, screws, cable and components
needed for your installation.
* When opening up the cable, it may help to open the spool inside a 5 gallon bucket
to help control the cable.
***
### Preparing Your Project
1. Before beginning, it is important to review your project’s shipping list and confirm you have received all your products. If you have not, please reach out to our customer service team as quickly as possible.
2. If you received your project from our Sales Team, refer to the provided layout drawing. If you created your own project, it will be helpful to draw your railing layout. Viewrail recommends a maximum of 48" between each post in your cable run.
3. Our Express railing system utilizes three types of posts: End Posts, Line Posts, and Corner Posts. You may or may not have all of these in your system.
4. Place each post you’ve received on your mounting surface according to the drawing you’ve received or created. (fig. A)
5. At this point, it will also be helpful to layout your handrails and make sure you are using the correct lengths with the relevant runs.
6. Finally, it may be helpful to prepare and set aside your cable hardware for each post. Refer to the hardware shown in (fig. B) to help. Setting aside your cable hardware will not only ensure you have the correct fittings, but will also help you understand the orientation of the posts.
*Tip: When accounted for, set aside each post’s hardware in a box or baggy to make sure they do not become lost.*
***
### Surface Mount Angle Post Installation
{% columns %}
{% column width="50%" %}
When mounting your angle posts it is important to make
\
sure your posts are:
* Mounting over 4" of solid blocking
* In line with each other
* Square to each other
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="50%" %}
* Place each post toward the front edge of your tread,
staying behind the nosing on the tread far enough so the
cable does not hit the tread (typically about an inch)
* Ensure that the pre-drilled holes in your angled posts are
pointed toward the top of your stairs
{% hint style="info" %}
*Note: The lower of the offset holes should be pointing
downwards towards the bottom of the stairs.*
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Use a speed square to set each post equally off the
front of the tread
* If applicable, use the speed square to set each post
equally off the side of the tread
* These two steps should ensure your posts are in line
and square.
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Run a string through the bottom hole of all the posts to
ensure that the lowest cable in your run will not run into
your tread nosing
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* When satisfied, use a pencil or pen to mark each
mounting hole in each post foot plate
* Set posts aside
{% hint style="info" %}
*Note: Make sure to use at least one hole per side of the post.
For example, use all four middle holes, or all four corner holes.*
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Use a 3
/16" drill bit to pre-drill the post mounting holes to
an approximate depth of 3-1
/2"
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
**If mounting on to Viewrail FLIGHT treads**
* Place the post on the correct tread
* Mark a minimum of 5 hole locations
* Ensuring to utilize all 3 holes on the inside of the foot
(highlighted in red above)
{% hint style="info" %}
*Note: The edge of the post foot should be no closer than
1" to any edge of the tread*
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
**If mounting on to Viewrail FLIGHT treads**
* Remove the post from the tread
* Using a 13/64" wood drill bit, drill a pilot hole for each
marked location
* Pilot holes must be 2-1
/2" when using the 3" hex lag
screws
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
**If mounting post on to traditional stair treads**
* Replace the post over your mounting holes
* Use the T-30 bit and populate your pre-drilled holes with
the provided screws
\ If mounting post on to Viewrail FLIGHT treads
* Place the post back on to the tread and align the holes
* Using a 7
/16” socket on an impact drill or socket wrench,
secure (qty 5) 3” lags into the tread
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Using the provided post level, ensure that your post
is plumb
* If the post is not level, back out the mounting screws
slightly, apply shims as needed, and fasten the screws
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Slide the foot cover over the top of the post foot
* Repeat steps 6-9 until all posts have been mounted
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Position the handrail bracket on the top of the dome and
insert a hex screw into each side of the bracket
* Use the hex screws to secure the handrail bracket at the
appropriate angle.
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### Product This Installation Pairs With
* [Angle End Post](https://shop.viewrail.com/express-angle-end-post/p/738556/)
* [Angle Line Post](https://shop.viewrail.com/express-angle-line-post/p/738557/)
### Related Next Steps
***
### Get Help from Us
Is this not the product you're looking for? Troubleshoot your issue by contacting our customer service team. [866-432-0541](tel:8664320541) or
# Level Side Mount Post Install
Express Side Mount Post for level runs Installation Guide
### Tools Needed for this Installation
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Measuring Tape
* Chalk Line Tool
* Speed Square
* Pencil
* Drill
* 13/64" Metal Drill Bit
* 3
/16" Drill Bit
* Hand Rivet Tool
* Post Level
* Torque Wrench
* 1
/4
" Hex Head Socket
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* T-50 Drill Bit
* Phillips Screw Driver
* 3
/16" & 1
/4
" Allen Wrench
* Painter’s Tape
* Dead Blow Hammer
* Bar Clamps
* Cable Cutter
* Cable Crimper
* 5 Gallon Bucket
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### Things to Know Before You Get Started
* Read over the provided material prior to the start of your installation.
* Make sure you have all of the posts, brackets, screws, cable and components
needed for your installation.
* When opening up the cable, it may help to open the spool inside a 5 gallon bucket
\
to help control the cable.
### Preparing Your Project
1. Before beginning, it is important to review your project’s shipping list and confirm you have received all your products. If you have not, please reach out to our customer service team as quickly as possible.
2. If you received your project from our Sales Team, refer to the provided layout drawing. If you designed your own project, drawing a railing layout is highly recommended. Viewrail recommends a maximum post spacing of 48" apart, center to center.
3. Our Slim Side Mounted Express Railing Level System utilizes three types of posts: End Posts, Line Posts, and (Inside) Corner Posts. You may or may not have all of these in your system.
4. Place each post on your mounting surface according to your project layout. (fig. A)
1. Note: If applicable to your post layout, the Inside Corner End Post(s) will have 5/16" holes on 3 sides. When laying out the corner posts, make sure the “Inside Post Mount” holes are not pointing at each other. These are the set of holes that do not go all the way through the post.
5. At this point, it will also be helpful to lay out your handrails and make sure you are using the correct lengths with the relevant runs.
6. Finally, it may be helpful to prepare and set aside your cable hardware for each post. Refer to the hardware shown in (fig. B & C) to help. Setting aside your cable hardware will not only ensure you have the correct fittings, but will also help you understand the orientation of the posts.
*Tip: When accounted for, set aside each post’s hardware in a box or baggy to make sure they do not become lost*
***
## Side Mount Level Post Installation
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Refer to your project drawing and lay out your posts,
keeping them no more than 4' apart, center to center
* Place your End Posts in position and line up the
middle of the post with where you will be attaching the
\
mounting plate\*
* Using a level, mark the vertical center line of your posts\*
* Then mark a horizontal line 13
/8
" below the deck surface
{% hint style="info" %}
*Note: For outside and inside corner posts, see STEP 2 for
special instructions on post spacing.*
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
**Spacing from Wall**
* We recommend the spacing from a wall to the center
of an End Post, to be 3-1
/2
" from wall
\
**Spacing from Outside Corner**
* We recommend the spacing between the two End Posts,
that get positioned on an outside corner, to be 2-1
/2
" from
\
the corner to the center of each post
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Place the End Post Mounting Plate into position, making
sure the plate is centered on your vertical line
* Line the top of the plate up with the horizontal line made
in STEP 1
* Using a pencil, outline the slots of the Mounting Plate
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Mark a horizontal line in the through of each slot, to
mark the drill location
**Line Posts, Inside Corner Posts & End Posts (Not On Outside Corner)**
\
We recommend pre-drilling holes in the center of the slots
**Outside Corner End Posts**
\
Offset the pilot holes to avoid interference between the
mounting screws of the two End Posts
* Using a 3
/16" drill bit, pre-drill to approximately 4" deep
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Peel any painter tape off of the surface
* Use the T-50 bit to drive the 3
/8
" x 5" wood lags into the
slots of the mounting plate
* Shim the Mounting Plate as needed until all sides
are plumb
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Now that the Mounting Plates for the End Posts are in
place, run out a string or chalk line
{% hint style="info" %}
*Note: This will be the reference line for the top of the Post
Mounting Plates for each of the Line Posts that will be
between the End Posts on this run.*
*Skip this step if there are only two posts in your run.
e.g. The run is less than 4*
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Next calculate the spacing for the Line Posts
**Example**
\
The railing run in the image above will have two Line
Posts between the two End Posts, creating 3 spaces.
In this example the measurement between center to
center of the Mounting Plates is 138". Divide 138 by 3
\
spaces to get 46" on center spacing.
* Lay out the center of your Line Posts based on your
site’s specific measurements
\
*Repeat STEPS 3-5 to install the remaining*
\
*Mounting Plates*
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
**Express Slim Side Mount Post Plate Shim Assembly**
* Drop 2 Bolt Together Side Mount - Short Screws into the Side Mount Shim Plate using a 1
/4
" Allen wrench
* Set a post down on either a piece of cardboard, blanket
or some other surface that will not damage the finish of
* Insert the assembly into the opening at the bottom of
the post
* Repeat this step for all posts
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Line up the post with the Mounting Plate and use a 1
/4"
Allen wrench to engage threads - tighten them until snug
* Repeat this step for all posts
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Once all of the posts are installed, and in proper
alignment, tighten all Bolt Together Side Mount - Short
Screws to 20 lb-ft
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Position the handrail bracket on the posts
* Use a Phillips head screw driver & the provided 1
/4
" x 1
/2"
Phillip’s screws to attach the brackets to the posts
{% hint style="info" %}
*Note: When orienting the handrail brackets for your corner
posts, ensure that the 90° angle of the bracket faces the
center of your project.*
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% hint style="warning" %}
**WE RECOMMEND PERFORMING THIS STEP AFTER
ALL HANDRAIL AND INFILL IS INSTALLED. WAITING
UNTIL THE END OF THE INSTALLATION WILL ALLOW
YOU TO MAKE MINOR ADJUSTMENTS TO THE POSTS
IF NEEDED DURING THE FOLLOWING STEPS.**
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### Products This Installation Pairs With
* [Side Mount Level End Post](https://shop.viewrail.com/express-sidemount-level-end-post/p/833731/)
* [Side Mount Level Line Post](https://shop.viewrail.com/express-sidemount-level-line-post/p/833735/)
* [Side Mount Level Corner Post](https://shop.viewrail.com/express-sidemount-corner-post/p/833739/)
### Related Next Steps
***
### Get Help from Us
Is this not the product you're looking for? Troubleshoot your issue by contacting our customer service team. [866-432-0541](tel:8664320541) or
# Angle Side Mount Post Install
Express Side Mount Post for Angle runs Installation Guide
### Tools Needed for this Installation
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Measuring Tape
* Chalk Line Tool
* Speed Square
* Pencil
* Drill
* 13/64" Metal Drill Bit
* 3
/16" Drill Bit
* Hand Rivet Tool
* Post Level
* Torque Wrench
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* 3
/16" Hex Head Socket
* T-50 Drill Bit
* Phillips Screw Driver
* 3
/16" & 1
/4
" Allen Wrench
* Painter’s Tape
* Dead Blow Hammer
* Bar Clamps
* Cable Cutter
* Cable Crimper
* 5 Gallon Bucket
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### Things to Know Before You Get Started
* Read over the provided material prior to the start of your installation.
* Make sure you have all of the posts, brackets, screws, cable and components
\
needed for your installation.
* When opening up the cable, it may help to open the spool inside a 5 gallon bucket
\
to help control the cable.
***
### Site Preparation
1. Before beginning, it is important to review your project’s shipping list and confirm you have received all your products. If you have not, please reach out to our customer service team as quickly as possible.
2. If you received your project from our Sales Team, refer to the provided layout drawing. If you designed your own project, drawing a railing layout is highly recommended. Viewrail recommends a maximum post spacing of 48” apart, center to center.
3. Our Slim Side Mounted Express Angle Railing System utilizes two types of posts: Angle Up Posts which are used for all posts on the stair system except for the top post which is an Angle Down post and is taller.
4. Place each post on your mounting surface according to your project layout (fig. A)
5. At this point, it will also be helpful to lay out your handrails and make sure you are using the correct lengths with the relevant runs.
6. Finally, it may be helpful to prepare and set aside your cable hardware for each post. Refer to the hardware shown in (fig. B) to help. Setting aside your cable hardware will not only ensure you have the correct fittings, but will also help you understand the orientation of the posts.
*Tip: When accounted for, set aside each post’s hardware in a box or baggy to make sure they do not become lost.*
***
### Angle Post Installation
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Starting from the bottom tread, use a level and mark
the vertical center line of the first post, 2" back from the
bottom most riser
* Then make a mark 13
/8
" below the deck surface
{% hint style="info" %}
*Note: You can use painters tape on the* *surface of the skirt
board or wall.*
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Line Up the mounting plate with the top and center lines
* Trace out both slots
* Mark a horizontal line through the center of each slot
{% hint style="info" %}
*Note: Marking in the center of the slot will allow for minor
adjustments to the height of the post. This may be useful later
when aligning the handrail.*
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Using a 3
/16" drill bit, predrill to approximately 4" deep
\
**Repeat STEPS 1-3 for any intermediate posts**
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* The post that goes on the top of the stairs will be taller
than the others posts - because of this, it will sit back
further on the tread to better meet code compliance
* The exact location is driven by the angle of the stairs
* A good starting point is to measure back 8" from the last
rise on a ‘Flush Mount Landing’ or 8" back from the 2nd
\
to last rise on a ‘Step Up Landing’ (pictured above)
* Once you have your location perform the same process
as described in the previous 3 steps
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Peel any painter tape off of the surface
* Use the T-50 bit to drive the 3
/8
" x 5" wood lags into the
slots of the mounting plate
* Shim the Mounting Plate as needed until all sides
are plumb
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
**EXPRESS SLIM SIDE MOUNT POST PLATE SHIM ASSEMBLY**
* Drop 2 Bolt Together Side Mount - Short Screws into the
Side Mount Shim Plate using a 1
/4
" Allen wrench
* Set a post down on either a piece of cardboard, blanket
or some other surface that will not damage the finish of
the post
* Insert the assembly into the opening at the bottom of
the post
* Repeat this step for all posts
{% hint style="info" %}
*Note: Ensure the post slots are aligned properly to the angle
of the stairs. When looking at one of the sides with the big
1
" holes, whichever side has its bottom slot closer is the
side facing down the stairs.*
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Line up the post with the Mounting Plate and use a 1
/4"
Allen wrench to engage threads - tighten them until snug
* Repeat this step for all posts
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Run string through the bottom slots of each post to
ensure that the infill follows the stair angle and that a
6-inch sphere cannot fit between the tread, riser, & infill
* Minor adjustments can be made by removing the posts
and adjusting the mounting plate up or down
* If you still can’t get them to line up, then moving the
plate itself may be required
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Run string along the top of the posts to ensure the angle
is correct and the post tops are all at the same height
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Once all of the posts are installed, and in proper
alignment, tighten all Bolt Together Side Mount - Short
Screws to 20 lb-ft
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Position the handrail bracket on the top of the dome and
insert a hex screw into each side of the bracket
* Use the hex screws to secure the handrail bracket at the
appropriate angle.
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% hint style="warning" %}
**WE RECOMMEND PERFORMING THIS STEP AFTER
ALL HANDRAIL AND INFILL IS INSTALLED. WAITING
UNTIL THE END OF THE INSTALLATION WILL ALLOW
YOU TO MAKE MINOR ADJUSTMENTS TO THE POSTS
IF NEEDED DURING THE FOLLOWING STEPS.**
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### Products That Pair With This Install
* Side Mount Angle End Post
* Side Mount Angle Line Post
### Related Next Steps
***
### Get Help from Us
Is this not the product you're looking for? Troubleshoot your issue by contacting our customer service team. [866-432-0541](tel:8664320541) or
# Handrail Installation
Use this page to choose the right handrail guide for your run.
### Choose your handrail guide
Pick the guide that matches your handrail layout.
{% hint style="info" %}
Confirm whether your run is level or angled before you start cutting or drilling.
{% endhint %}
Title
Description
Guide
Level Handrail
For flat runs. Covers measuring the rail, accounting for end caps, cutting, clamping to brackets, pre-drilling with a 13/64" bit, and fastening with 3/16" rivets.
For stair and sloped runs. Covers angled layout, cutting, clamping on the low side of each bracket, pre-drilling, riveting, and reinstalling the assembled rail over the posts.
### Quick guide summary
#### [Level Handrail](/install/express-cable-railing/handrail-installation/level-handrail)
Use this guide for straight, level sections.
* Measure the full run before cutting.
* Account for end caps before final length.
* Clamp, pre-drill, and rivet the rail to each bracket.
#### [Angle Handrail](/install/express-cable-railing/handrail-installation/angle-handrail)
Use this guide for stair and other angled sections.
* Measure the slope before cutting.
* Clamp on the low side of the bracket.
* Pre-drill, rivet, then set the assembled rail back on the posts.
### FAQ
Which handrail guide should I use?
Use **Level Handrail** for flat runs. Use **Angle Handrail** for stair or sloped runs.
Do I need to account for end caps before cutting?
For Metal handrails, Yes. Each end cap adds `1/8"` to the overall handrail length.
What drill bit should I use for the handrail mounting holes?
Use a `13/64"` drill bit for the handrail mounting holes.
Do I need to fasten every bracket hole?
Yes. Use all bracket holes for a secure connection.
How do I handle a corner in a handrail run?
You can miter the handrail or join it with a [handrail corner bracket](https://shop.viewrail.com/handrail-covers/p/137918/)
# Level Handrail
Metal toprail installation for express cable railing posts
## Level Run Handrail Installation
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Before mounting any handrail, lay out your handrail for
each run and make sure you have correct lengths
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Measure the length of your run, or however far you
would like the handrail to extend past each bracket
{% hint style="info" %}
*Note: For corners, you can either miter the handrail or butt
joint them on top of the corner bracket.*
{% endhint %}
{% hint style="info" %}
*Note: Make sure to account for the added thickness of the
Handrail End Caps. Each one will add 1
/8
"
to the overall length
of the handrail.*
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Place painter’s tape on the area of the handrail you will
be cutting.
* Mark where you will cut the handrail on the tape
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Use a chop or miter saw to cut the handrail at the mark
you made
* Make sure you are using a blade rated to cut the
handrail material\*
* Remove the tape from the end of your handrail
{% hint style="info" %}
*\*Note: We recommend using a blade rated for non-ferrous
metal/laminate/aluminum.*
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Mask off the powder coated finish near the newly cut
portion of the handrail
* Clean the exposed surface of any loose metal shavings
* If provided with your order, apply Zinc Phosphate Primer
and allow to dry (Coastal Applications Only)
* Using the supplied touch up paint, coat the exposed
metal end - more than one coat may be needed
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* If you have a metal handrail, place the end cap over
the open end of the handrail and gently tap it into place
using a dead blow hammer or rubber mallet
* You can use silicon or a similar adhesive if desired
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Center the handrail on top of the handrail brackets
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Clamp the handrail to the first and last handrail brackets
in a run
* Make sure the clamp has rubber padding
* This will keep the handrail in place while you mark the
drill holes into the handrail
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Using a pencil, mark the holes for the handrail screws
* Once finished marking the inside posts, move the
clamps from the outside posts to the inside posts
* Repeat this process on the outside posts
{% hint style="info" %}
*Note: There are two holes on each side of the handrail
bracket. For a secure and stable connection, you will be*
\
*populating all four holes.*
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Remove the clamps and the handrail
* Set the handrail upside down on a protected surface
* Pre-drill and populate the holes of the clamped
brackets using a 13/64" drill bit and the provided
mounting screws
{% hint style="info" %}
*Note: Use Screw Wax to aid in drilling*
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Set the handrail back into place over the posts
* Again use bar clamps to secure it in place
* Check that all the handrail brackets holes line up with
the holes drilled in the previous step
* Attach the handrail brackets to the handrail with the
provided rivet gun and 3
/16" rivets
{% hint style="info" %}
*Note: The 3/16"
rivets will require you to change the rivet head
on the provided Hand Rivet tool. Using the supplied custom
wrench that came with the hand rivet tool, replace the
3.2mm rivet head with the 4.8mm option*
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### Products This Installation Pairs With
* [1" x 2" Metal Handrail](https://shop.viewrail.com/handrail/metal-handrail/)
* [1" x 4" Beverage Handrail](https://shop.viewrail.com/1-x-4-handrail/p/261355/)
* [1" x 4" Express Beverage Handrail](https://shop.viewrail.com/express-beverage-handrail/p/613183/)
### Related Next Steps
* [Express Tension Kit Installation](/install/express-cable-railing/express-tension-kit-installation)
* [Level Post Installation](/install/express-cable-railing/handrail-installation/level-handrail)
* [Angle Post Installation](/install/signature-cable-railing/angle-railing-post-installation)
***
### Get Help from Us
Is this not the product you're looking for? Troubleshoot your issue by contacting our customer service team. [866-432-0541](tel:8664320541) or
# Angle Handrail
metal angle handrail installation for express railing post
### Angle Run: Handrail Installation
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Before mounting any handrail, lay out your handrail for
each run and make sure you have correct lengths
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Measure the length of your run, or however far you
would like the handrail to extend past each bracket
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Place painter’s tape on the area of the handrail you will
be cutting.
* Mark where you will cut the handrail on the tape
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Use a chop saw to cut the handrail at the mark you made
* Make sure you are using a blade rated to cut your material
* Remove the tape from the end of your handrail
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Mask off the powder coated finish near the newly cut
portion of the handrail
* Clean the exposed surface of any loose metal shavings
* If provided with your order, apply Zinc Phosphate Primer
and allow to dry (Coastal Applications Only)
* Using the supplied touch up paint, coat the exposed
metal end - more than one coat may be needed
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* If you have a metal handrail, place the end cap over
the open end of the handrail and gently tap it into place
using a dead blow hammer or rubber mallet
* You can use silicon or a similar adhesive if desired
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Center the handrail on top of the handrail brackets
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Clamp the handrail to the first and last handrail brackets
in a run
* On angled runs, it will be necessary to clamp the lowest
side of the bracket
Make sure the clamp has rubber padding - This will
keep the handrail in place while you drill into the handrail
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Using a pencil, mark the bracket outline or 4 outside
holes for the handrail screws
* Once finished marking the inside posts, move the
clamps from the outside posts to the inside posts
* Repeat this process on the outside posts
{% hint style="info" %}
*Note: There are two holes on each side of the handrail
bracket. For a secure and stable connection, you will be
populating all four holes.*
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Remove the clamps and the handrail
* Set the handrail upside down on a protected surface
* Remove the dome screw and then the bracket top and
place them on the upside down handrail so that they line
up with the marks made in the previous step
* Pre-drill and populate the holes of the clamped
brackets using a 13/64" drill bit and the provided
mounting screws
{% hint style="info" %}
*Note: Use Screw Wax to aid in drilling*
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Attach the handrail brackets to the handrail with the
provided 3
/16" rivets
* Populate a minimum of 2 holes per side
{% hint style="info" %}
*Note: The 3/16"
rivets will require you to change the rivet head
on the provided Hand Rivet tool. Using the supplied custom
wrench that came with the hand rivet tool, replace the
3.2mm rivet head with the 4.8mm option.*
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Picking up the entire assembly, set it in place over the
posts and reattach the handrail bracket to the top of
each post
* Your handrail should now be installed
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### Products This Installation Pairs With
* [1" x 2" Metal Handrail](https://shop.viewrail.com/handrail/metal-handrail/)
* [1" x 4" Beverage Handrail](https://shop.viewrail.com/1-x-4-handrail/p/261355/)
* [1" x 4" Express Beverage Handrail](https://shop.viewrail.com/express-beverage-handrail/p/613183/)
### Related Next Steps
* [Express Tension Kit Installation](/install/express-cable-railing/express-tension-kit-installation)
* [Level Post Installation](/install/express-cable-railing/handrail-installation/level-handrail)
* [Angle Post Installation](/install/signature-cable-railing/angle-railing-post-installation)
***
### Get Help from Us
Is this not the product you're looking for? Troubleshoot your issue by contacting our customer service team. [866-432-0541](tel:8664320541) or
# Express Tension Kit Installation
Choose the install page that matches your run and find the related Express cable products.
Use this hub to pick the right guide and the right parts.
### Choose your install page
Select the option that matches your end connection configuration.
If your system includes level and angled runs, use guides for each.
{% hint style="info" %}
Confirm your post type and end components before you begin.
{% endhint %}
Title
Description
Guide
Cover image
Level Kit to Level Kit
Use this for a level run with level kits on both ends.
### Store products
Order components for this run.
{% hint style="info" %}
The following links open Viewrail's product store on `shop.viewrail.com`.
{% endhint %}
#### Cable and installation hardware
* 🛒 [1/8 Stainless Steel Cable](https://shop.viewrail.com/1-8-stainless-steel-cable/p/653839/)
* 🛒 [1/8 Express Installation Kit](https://shop.viewrail.com/1-8-express-installation-kit/p/666122/)
* 🛒 [1/8 Cable Threaded Crimp Fitting](https://shop.viewrail.com/1-8-cable-threaded-crimp-fitting/p/645371/)
* 🛒 [1/8 Cable Stop](https://shop.viewrail.com/1-8-cable-stop/p/666062/)
#### Express end component kits
* 🛒 [Express Level End Component Kit](https://shop.viewrail.com/express-level-end-component-kit/p/938798/)
* 🛒 [Express Angle End Component Kit](https://shop.viewrail.com/express-angle-end-component-kit/p/938800/)
* 🛒 [Express Corner Component Kit](https://shop.viewrail.com/express-corner-component-kit/p/938802/)
# Angle Kit to Angle Kit
Express tension kit installation for angle runs of cable railing
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Take the loose end of your cable spool and slide the
cable through the posts on the run you are working on
* It is typically easiest to run the cable up through the
bottom post towards the top post
{% hint style="info" %}
*It is a good idea to put the spool of cable into a
5-gallon bucket to help prevent rapid unspooling of the cable*
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* If needed, adjust the die setting on the head of the
crimping tool so that it shows a “1” and an “8” on both
sides as shown above
* Once the cable passes through the final post on the
run, crimp a Threaded Crimp Fitting onto the end
of the cable
* Crimp the Threaded Crimp Fitting, then rotate it 90° and
crimp again
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Slide a Angle Washer over the Threaded Crimp Fitting
* Thread a Tension Receiver onto the Threaded Crimp
fitting four full turns
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Pull the cable back against the post so the Tension
Receiver is pulled into the Angle Washer
* Ensure the Angle washer rests flush against the side
of the post
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Return to the other end of the run where the Angle
Tension Kit will be installed nearest the spool, and pull
the cable tight for the full run
* Place painter’s tape on the cable where the cable meets
the inside edge of the post
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Use the side cutting tool located below the main
crimping head to cut your cable
* Slide the cable through the cable cutter and cut the
cable 3" - 4" extra past the outside edge of the post
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Remove the cable from the post
* Add and mark 1½" past the painter’s tape
* Cut the cable on this mark
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* If needed, adjust the die setting on the head of the
crimping tool so that it shows a “1” and an “8” on both
sides as shown above
* Crimp a Threaded Crimp fitting onto the second end
of the cable
* Crimp the Threaded Crimp Fitting, then rotate it 90° and
crimp again
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Insert the Threaded Crimp Fitting into the hole on the
inside face of the post
* Then, insert the Tension Receiver through the Angle
Washer and then into the hole on the outside face
of the post
* Meet both in the middle of the post and thread the
Tension Receiver onto the Crimp Fitting four full turns
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Insert the Threaded Crimp Fitting into the hole on the
inside face of the post
* Then, insert the Tension Receiver through the Angle
Washer and then into the hole on the outside face
of the post
* Meet both in the middle of the post and thread the
Tension Receiver onto the Crimp Fitting four full turns
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* After all the cable runs are done use the Allen wrench to
tighten the remaining side of the cable run in sequence
* Holding the cable with the pliers & neoprene sleeve,
tighten until the cable is taut and then turn the Tension
Receiver another half turn
{% hint style="danger" %} \*Before tensioning any cable infill, please ensure
all posts and handrail are fully installed.
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
***
### Get Help from Us
Is this not the product you're looking for? Troubleshoot your issue by contacting our customer service team. [866-432-0541](tel:8664320541) or
# DriveTite Kit Installation
Express DriveTite tension kit installation for cable railing into wood posts.
### Tools Needed For This Installation
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Multi-Function Hand Tool
* Drill
* 3/16" Drill Bit
* T25 Torx Bit
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Tape Measure
* Custom DriveTite Wrench ([Available Through Viewrail](https://shop.viewrail.com/drivetite-and-rodtite-wrench/p/277899/))
* Pencil
* Painter’s Tape
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% embed url="" %}
### Things to Know Before You Get Started
* Ensure that your posts and handrail are properly installed before beginning your cable installation
* For systems using both wood post as well as Viewrail metal posts, match\
the hole spacing from the Viewrail metal posts
* It is suggested that this be a 2 person project
* Cable DriveTite Kits are designed to fasten into wood with a Janka Rating of 690 and above - See Page 3
{% hint style="info" %}
Tip: Open your cable spool inside a 5 gallon bucket. This will help contain\
the cable as it expands.
{% endhint %}
### Level DriveTite Installation
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Apply a strip of painter’s tape vertically in the center of the post for marking and to protect the finish
* Run a pencil line down the center of the post
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Measure 35/16" from the bottom of the handrail to mark the top hole location
* This location will be used as a reference point for the next hole - And that hole, a reference for the following\
one, etc.
{% hint style="warning" %}
Building Code: The space between the handrail & top cable, between each cable, and between the bottom cable & the floor, must be less than 4"
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* If you purchased the Custom DriveTite Wrench, center one of the holes of the wrench on the top hole you marked in Step 1
* With the wrench hanging down as shown, mark the next hole placement
* Continue down the post using the holes in the wrench to produce a 31/8" gap between marked locations
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Using a 3/16" drill bit, drill a 2" pilot hole into the post for each run of cable you marked in Step 3
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Slide the DriveTite Receiver on to the DriveTite Screw
* Using a T25 bit, fasten the screw into the pilot holes, securing the Receiver to the post
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Measure the distance between posts Surface mounted DriveTite Receivers
* Subtract 31/2" from the measurement
* This will be the “Needed Cable Length”
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Cut the cable to the “Needed Cable Length” measured in Step 6
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Slide the Cover onto the cable. You can tape the cover further up the cable run with painters tape to keep it out of the way
* Insert the Threaded Crimp Fitting onto the cable, make sure it is fully seated
* Crimp the fitting onto the cable
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Screw the DriveTite Turnbuckle on to the Threaded Crimp Fitting a couple of rotations
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Begin to screw the Turnbuckle into the Receiver
* Use the DriveTite Wrench to tighten the Turnbuckle
* As the Turnbuckle tightens into the Receiver, the Threaded Crimp Fitting will be pulled further into the Turnbuckle
{% hint style="info" %}
Note: To help prevent the cable from spinning, you will need to use rubber sleeve and pliers to hold the cable so the turnbuckle pulls in the threaded crimp and itself rather than spinning the cable. If you are finding that is not working, then you can use Threadlocker Blue to help prevent them from spinning.
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* After all cables are ready, tension in sequence
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### Angle DriveTite Installation
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* If you purchased the Custom DriveTite Wrench, center one of the holes of the wrench on the top hole you marked in Step 1
* With the wrench hanging down as shown, mark the next hole placement
* Continue down the post using the holes in the wrench to produce a 3 1/8" gap between marked locations
{% hint style="info" %}
Building Code: The space between the handrail & top run of infill, between each\
run of infill, and between the bottom run of infill & the floor, must be less than 4"
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* To determine your DriveTite locations, refer to Figure 1 on the previous page
* **Column A** refers to the angle of your stairs
* **Column B** shows how far down you need to mark from the underside of the handrail on the lowest post on the run
* **Column C** shows how far down you need to mark from the underside of the handrail on the highest post on the run
* Once you have your B and C marks, each of the remaining holes will be spaced 3 1/8" down
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* If you purchased the Custom DriveTite Wrench, center one of the holes of the wrench on the top hole you marked in Step 1
* With the wrench hanging down as shown, mark the next hole placement
* Continue down the post using the holes in the wrench to produce a 31/8" gap between marked location
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Using a 3/16" drill bit, drill a 2" pilot hole into the post for each run of cable you marked in Step 3
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Using the T-25 Bit, fasten the DriveTite Screw through the DriveTite Angle Mount and into the post
* Make sure the ears are vertical. You will likely have to hold the Angle Mount to keep it from turning. For elevated areas, it would be best to keep the set screw hole of the Angle Mount on the inside of the run where it is easily accessed
* Fasten tightly
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* There are two ways to measure for your cable cut length
* Measure from the inside face of each end post and subtract 41/8"
* Because the Angle Mount could depress into the wood when tightening, you can also measure from the face of each Angle Mount and subtract 2¾"
* These two measurements should equal the same cut length
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Cut the cable to the measurement indicated in Step 6
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* If you have any intermediate posts on the run, drill out the pass through holes to the diameter desired
* The cable is 5/32" thick - It is recommended that the diameter of the holes be 5/16"
* Run your cable through any intermediate holes
* Apply any intermediate post hardware at this point
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Slide the Cover onto the cable. You can tape the cover further up the cable run with painters tape to keep it out of the way
* Insert the Threaded Crimp Fitting onto the cable, make sure it is fully seated
* Crimp the fitting onto the cable
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Step 10-12 should be on one side of the run only
* Thread the Turnbuckle into the Angle Receiver 2 turns
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Thread the Turnbuckle/Receiver combo onto the Threaded Crimp Fitting about 7 turns
* There should be 2 threads visible on the Threaded Crimp Fitting still
* During the process, make sure the Turnbuckle is not threading further into the Receiver
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Take the assembled end and put the Angle Receiver inside the Angle Mount so that the set screw holes line up
* Using the 7/64" Allen wrench, tighten the Set Screw through each
* Complete Steps 8-10 for each cable on this side of the run
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Repeat Steps 10-12 for each cable on the other side of the run
* Since one end is already fastened, if the cut length is slightly too long, tighten the threaded crimp fitting or turnbuckles marginally until the set screw fits
* If the cut length is too short, loosen the threaded crimp fittings slightly until the set screw fits
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Once both ends are attached, use the DriveTite Wrench to tighten the Turnbuckles’ hex heads
* As the Turnbuckles tighten into the Receivers, because of the opposite threading, they will also pull in/tighten their corresponding Threaded Crimp Fittings
* Refer to Step 15 for the correct tightening pattern
{% hint style="info" %}
Note: To help prevent the cable from spinning, you will need to use rubber sleeve and pliers to hold the cable so the turnbuckle pulls in the threaded crimp. and itself rather than spinning the cable. If you are finding that is not working, then you can use Threadlocker Blue to help prevent them from spinning.
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Tighten each side in the represented sequence
* You can tighten one side and then the other until snug
* Once the Turnbuckles are tightened, remove any tape and slide each Cover up to the Turnbuckle
* Thread this onto the remaining exposed threads of the Turnbuckles for a tight seam
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
***
### Get Help from Us
Is this not the product you're looking for? Troubleshoot your issue by contacting our customer service team. [866-432-0541](tel:8664320541) or
# Level Kit to Level Kit
Express tension kit installation for level runs of cable railing
***
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Take the loose end of your cable spool and slide the
cable through the posts on the run you are working on
* Since both ends of the cable will use the same type of
post holes, it does not matter which end you start from
{% hint style="info" %}
*It is a good idea to put the spool of cable into a 5 gal.
bucket to help prevent rabid unspooling of the cable.*
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* If needed, adjust the die setting on the head of the
crimping tool so that it shows a “1” and an “8” on both
sides as shown above
* Once the cable passes through the final post on the
run, crimp a Threaded Crimp Fitting onto the end
of the cable
* Crimp the Threaded Crimp Fitting then turn it 90°
and crimp it again
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column width="50%" %}
* Thread a Tension Receiver onto the Threaded Crimp
fitting four full turns
* Pull the cable back against the post so the Tension
Receiver is pulled into the post
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="50%" %}
* Return to the other end of the run where the Level
Tension Kit will be installed nearest the spool, and pull
the cable tight for the full run
* Place painter’s tape on the cable where the cable meets
the inside edge of the post
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Use the side cutting tool located below the main
crimping head to cut your cable
* Slide the cable through the cable cutter and cut the
cable 3" - 4" extra past the outside edge of the post
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Remove the cable from the post
* Add and mark ½" past the painter’s tape
* Cut the cable on this mark
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* If needed, adjust the die setting on the head of the
crimping tool so that it shows a “1” and an “8” on both
sides as shown above
* Crimp a Threaded Crimp fitting onto the second end
of the cable
* Crimp the Threaded Crimp Fitting then turn it 90°
and crimp it again
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Insert the Threaded Crimp Fitting into the hole on the
inside face of the post
* Then, insert the Tension Receiver into the hole on the
outside face of the post
* Meet both in the middle of the post and thread the
Tension Receiver onto the Crimp Fitting four full turns
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Slide the protective Neoprene Sleeve onto the cable
near the post you are working on
* Firmly grasp the sleeve with pliers and use the supplied
3
/16" Allen wrench to tighten the Tension Receiver only
snug enough to hold in place
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* After all the cable runs are done, use the Allen wrench to
tighten the remaining side of the cable run in sequence
* Holding the cable with the pliers & neoprene sleeve,
tighten until the cable is taut and then turn the Tension
Receiver another half turn
{% hint style="danger" %}
Before tensioning any cable infill, please ensure
all posts and handrail are fully installed.
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
***
### Get Help from Us
Is this not the product you're looking for? Troubleshoot your issue by contacting our customer service team. [866-432-0541](tel:8664320541) or
# Inside Post Mount to Level
Express tension kit installation for runs of cable railing to an inside post.
***
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Take the loose end of your cable spool & slide the cable
through the post that will receive the Level Tension Kit
* Pass the cable all the way down the run, through any
intermediate posts, until it meets the end of the run
{% hint style="info" %}
*It is a good idea to put the spool of cable into a 5 gal.
bucket to help prevent rabid unspooling of the cable.*
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* If needed, adjust the die setting on the head of the
crimping tool so that it shows a “1” and an “8” on both
sides as shown above
* Slide the loose end of the cable through the Termination
Washer, and into the Cable Stop
* Crimp the Cable Stop on to the end of the cable, then
turn it 90° and crimp it again
{% hint style="info" %}
*In order to free a Termination washer from the metal
frame they come on, you must bend one back and forth a
couple times and it will break free*
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Insert the Cable Stop into the 5
/16" hole
* Then turn the Termination Washer (shown above) and
slide it into the 5
/16" hole as well
* Pull the cable back and the Cable Stop and Termination
Washer will lock against the inside of the post
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Return to the other end of the run where the Level
Tension Kit will be installed nearest the spool, and pull
the cable tight for the full run
* Place painter’s tape on the cable where the cable meets
the inside edge of the post
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Use the side cutting tool located below the main
crimping head to cut your cable
* Slide the cable through the cable cutter and cut the
cable 3" - 4" extra past the outside edge of the post
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Remove the cable from the post
* Add and mark ½" past the painter’s tape
* Cut the cable on this mark
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* If needed, adjust the die setting on the head of the
crimping tool so that it shows a “1” and an “8” on both
sides as shown above
* Crimp a Threaded Crimp fitting onto the second end
of the cable
* Crimp the Threaded Crimp Fitting then turn it 90°
and crimp it again
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Insert the Threaded Crimp Fitting into the ½" hole on
the inside face of the post
* Then, insert the Tension Receiver into the ½" hole on
the outside face of the post
* Meet both in the middle of the post and thread the
Tension Receiver onto the Crimp Fitting four full turns
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Slide the protective Neoprene Sleeve onto the cable
near the post you are working on
* Firmly grasp the sleeve with pliers and use the supplied
3
/16" Allen wrench to tighten the Tension Receiver only
snug enough to hold in place
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* After all the cable runs are done use the Allen wrench
to tighten the Level Tension Kit side of the cable run in
sequence
* Holding the cable with the pliers & neoprene sleeve,
tighten until the cable is taut and then turn the Tension
Receiver another half turn
{% hint style="danger" %}
\*Before tensioning any cable infill, please ensure
all posts and handrail are fully installed.
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
***
***
### Get Help from Us
Is this not the product you're looking for? Troubleshoot your issue by contacting our customer service team. [866-432-0541](tel:8664320541) or
# Post Order of Installation
This is a page dedicated to helping users install Signature cable railing posts in the correct order.
### Order of Installation for A Posts
Configuration
Configuration Description
Order of Installation
A to C1
Level Tension To Level Tension
Start with
A to C1
Level Tension to Inside Post Mount
Start with C
A to F
Level Tension to Inside Post Mount
Start with F
A to A
Level Tension To Level Tension
-
A to H
Level Tension to pass through cables and Inside Post Mount
Start with H
A to G
Level Tension to pass through cables
Start with G
A to I
Level Tension to Level Tension
Start with I
A to D
Level Tension to Level Tension
Start with D
A to R
Level Tension to Inside Post Mount
Start with R
### Order of Installation for F Posts
| Configuration | Configuration Description | Order of Installation |
| ------------- | -------------------------------------- | --------------------- |
| F to D | Inside Post Mount to Level Tension Kit | Start with F |
| F to I | Inside Post Mount to Level Tension Kit | Start with F |
| F to C2 | Inside Post Mount to Level Tension Kit | Start with F |
### Order of Installation for C Posts
| Configuration | Configuration Description | Order of Installlation |
| ------------- | ---------------------------------------------------------- | ---------------------- |
| C to D1 | Level Tension to Level Tension | Start with C |
| C1 to D | Inside Post Mount to Level Tension | Start with C |
| C1 to I | Level Tension to Level Tension | Start with C |
| C1 to I | Inside Post Mount to Level Tension | Start with C |
| C to H2 | Level Tension to pass through cables and Inside Post Mount | Start with H |
| C1 to G | Level Tension to pass through cables | Start with G |
| C to R2 | Level Tension to Inside Post Mount | Start with R |
# Level Railing Post Installation
### Tools and Supplies Needed for This Installation
* Drill
* 3/16" Drill Bit (Standard Install)
* T-30 Torx Bit (Provided)
* Chalk Line Tool
* Tape Measure
* Pencil
* Post Level (Provided)
* String (Provided)
### Things to Know Before You Get Started
* Read over the provided material to identify post types
* If installing Rod Posts, ensure that the foam blocks are inside the posts\
before beginning your rod railing installation\*
* Surface Mount Posts require 4" of blocking for structural integrity
* All posts are designed to be mounted to a non-compressible surface. They will not mount properly to drywall or carpet
* Consult the [POST ORDER OF INSTALLATION](/install/signature-cable-railing/post-order-of-installation) page to see which order your posts should be installed
*\*Systems installed near the coast will be provided isolator components and*\
*will not need these foam inserts.*
### Installing Level Cable Railing Posts
{% columns %}
{% column width="50%" %}
* Using your provided project layout identify the run you want to do first
* Measure and snap a chalk line to mark the run
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="50%" %}
• Using the layout provided and a tape measure, mark the center of where you want to mount each post
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Take the post and center it on your chalk line
* If the foot plate has marks, these can be used to orient the post properly
* Mark the hole placements
* At least four holes must be populated, with at least one hole on each side
* Set the post aside
*Note: It is possible with our textured powder coats, that the mark lines on the Aluminum post feet may be hard to see.*
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Using a 3/16" drill bit, drill a pilot hole for each marked location
* Pilot holes must be 3" deep when using 3 1/2" mounting screws or 2" when using 2 1/2" mounting screws
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Slide the Foam Insert into each post
* This ensures that the rods will not rattle & make noise
*Note: Systems installed near the coast will be provided isolator components and will not need these foam inserts.*
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Using the T-30 Torx Bit, screw the post mounting screws down snug through the post foot
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Use the post level to make sure the post is plumb
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* If the post isn’t level, back out mounting screws and use provided shims
* Snap off any excess shim material
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Slide the Post Foot Cover over the Foot
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
***
### Get Help from Us
Is this not the product you're looking for? Troubleshoot your issue by contacting our customer service team. [866-432-0541](tel:8664320541) or
# Angle Railing Post Installation
### Tools and Supplies Needed for This Installation
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Drill
* Impact Driver or Socket Wrench
* 3/16" Drill Bit (Installing on Non - Viewrail stairs)
* 13/64" Drill Bit (Installing on Viewrail FLIGHT Tread)
* T-30 Torx Bit (Installing on Non - Viewrail stairs - Provided)
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* 7/16" Socket (Installing on Viewrail FLIGHT Tread)
* Chalk Line Tool
* Tape Measure
* Pencil
* Post Level (Provided)
* String (Provided)
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### Things to Know Before You Get Started
* Read over the provided material to identify post types
* If installing Rod Posts, ensure that the foam blocks are inside the posts\
before beginning your rod railing installation\*
* All posts are designed to be mounted to a non-compressible surface. They will not mount properly to drywall or carpet
* Consult the [POST ORDER OF INSTALLATION](/install/signature-cable-railing/post-order-of-installation) page to see which order your posts should be installed
*\*Systems installed near the coast will be provided isolator components and*\
*will not need these foam inserts.*
### Installing Angle Cable Railing Posts
{% columns %}
{% column width="50%" %}
* Identify the posts needed for the stairs and set them in place according to your project layout
* Unless otherwise specified, the posts should sit just behind the tread nosing
*Note: The edge of the post foot should be no closer than 1" to any edge of the tread*
*Note: If you are using a BC or BR post on a stair run, the BC post is designed to mount towards the center of the tread, and the BR post is designed to mount towards the rear of the tread.*
*Note: You can identify the post by the information stamped onto the bottom of the foot.*
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="50%" %}
• Run a string along the top of the posts to ensure the angle is correct and the posts tops are at the same height
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Run string through the bottom holes of each post to ensure the infill would not hit the nosing of the treads
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Measure & verify the distance between posts against your drawings
* Distances between posts should closely match the distances on the drawings
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
**If mounting post on to traditional stair treads**
* If posts placements are correct, begin to mark your pilot hole placements
* At lest four holes must be populated, with at least one hole on each side
*Note: The edge of the post foot should be no closer than 1" to any edge of the tread*
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
**If mounting post on to traditional stair treads**
* Using a 3/16" wood drill bit, drill a pilot hole for each marked location
* Pilot holes must be 3" when using 3 1/2" screws, or 2" when using 2 1/2" screws
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
**If mounting post on to Viewrail FLIGHT treads**
* Place the post on the correct tread
* Mark a minimum of 5 hole locations
* Ensuring to utilize all 3 holes on the inside of the foot (highlighted in red above)
*Note: The edge of the post foot should be no closer than 1" to any edge of the tread*
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
**If mounting post on to Viewrail FLIGHT treads**
* Remove the post from the tread
* Using a 13/64" wood drill bit, drill a pilot hole for each marked location
* Pilot holes must be 2 1/2" when using the 3" hex lag screws
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Slide the Foam Insert into each post
* This ensures that the rods will not rattle & make noise
*Note: Systems installed near the coast will be provided isolator components and will not need these foam inserts.*
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
**If mounting post on to traditional stair treads**
* Using the T-30 Torx Bit, screw the post mounting screws down snug through the 5/16" stainless steel washers
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
**If mounting post on to Viewrail FLIGHT treads**
* Place the post back on to the tread and align the holes
* Using a 7/16" socket on an impact drill or socket wrench, secure the (qty 5) 3" lags into the tread
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Use the post level to make sure the post is plumb
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* If the post isn’t level, back out mounting screws and use provided shims
* Snap off any excess shim material
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Slide the Post Foot Cover over the Foot
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
***
### Get Help from Us
Is this not the product you're looking for? Troubleshoot your issue by contacting our customer service team. [866-432-0541](tel:8664320541) or
# Sidemount Railing Post Installation
Install Viewrail Signature Cable Railing sidemount posts with this step-by-step guide. Use it for post layout, pilot drilling, fastening, leveling, and final post setup on a non-compressible mounting surface.
*Watch installation videos on our YouTube channel: youtube.com/viewrail*
### Tools for Signature Cable Railing sidemount post installation
* Post Level (Provided)
* Tape Measure
* Pencil
* Drill
* 3/16", 1/4", and 3/8" Drill Bits
* Dead Blow Hammer
### Before you install sidemount cable railing posts
* Review your project materials to identify each post type.
* If you are installing rod posts, insert the foam blocks before you begin.
* Mount posts only to a non-compressible surface. Do not mount to drywall or carpet.
* Systems installed near the coast include isolator components and do not use foam inserts.
* Consult the [POST ORDER OF INSTALLATION](/install/signature-cable-railing/post-order-of-installation) page to see which order your posts should be installed
### Installing Side Mount Cable Railing Posts
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Refer to your layout drawing to find the mounting location for each post.
* Side-mounted posts are designed with the top of the plate mounted `1 3/8"` below the finished floor surface.
* Mark your top line before drilling.
* If you are mounting to a skirtboard or stair fascia, place the posts to maintain a `36"` handrail height.
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Place the posts and mark the holes for pilot drilling.
* Have a second person hold the post while you mark the holes.
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* If you are using lag screws, drill pilot holes with a `3/16"` bit.
* Drill `4 1/4"` deep holes for the `5"` lag screws.
* If you are using through bolts, drill the fastener holes completely through the double `2x` material.
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Slide the foam insert into each post.
* This keeps the rods from rattling.
*Note: Systems installed near the coast include isolator components and do not need foam inserts.*
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column width="50%" %}
* Mount the post with 4 washers and screws.
* Make sure the post sits snug against the fascia.
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="50%" %}
* Insert the `6"` carriage bolt through the sidemount plate and predrilled holes.
* Each set of bolts passes through a `2" x 6"` steel backing plate.
* Add the washer, then the lock washer, then the nut.
* Tighten the nuts evenly and firmly.
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column width="50%" %}
* Once the post is snug, use the post level to confirm it is level.
* Use the post level again to confirm the post is plumb.
* If the post is not fully level or plumb, adjust it with shims.
* Once the post is firmly mounted, break off any excess shim material.
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="50%" %}
* Use a dead blow hammer to tap the end cap into the bottom of each post.
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### Next steps
After your sidemount posts are installed, continue with:
* [Handrail Installation](broken://spaces/VpVXr5th5GNxsoMyHXXK/pages/eR64ygMkZ1YQ5suwc2Ho)
* [Infill Installation](broken://spaces/VpVXr5th5GNxsoMyHXXK/pages/I86RE8VzzBEshHuc4oYi)
***
### Get Help from Us
Is this not the product you're looking for? Troubleshoot your issue by contacting our customer service team. [866-432-0541](tel:8664320541) or
# Tension Kit Installs
Choose the install page that matches your run.
Start with the run type. Then match the hardware at each end.
### Level runs
* [Level Tension Kit to Level Tension Kit](/install/signature-cable-railing/tension-kit-installs/level-to-level) — Use this for a level run with tension kits on both ends.
* [Inside Post Mount Kit to Level Tension Kit](/install/signature-cable-railing/tension-kit-installs/inside-post-mount-to-level) — Use this for a level run with an inside post mount on one end.
### Angle runs
* [Angle Tension Kit to Angle Tension Kit](/install/signature-cable-railing/tension-kit-installs/angle-to-angle) — Use this for an angled run with angle kits on both ends.
* [Inside Post Mount Kit to Angle Tension Kit](/install/signature-cable-railing/tension-kit-installs/inside-post-mount-to-angle) — Use this for an angled run with an inside post mount on one end.
### Installation order
Use [Post Order of Installation](/install/signature-cable-railing/post-order-of-installation) to confirm where to start on your run before installing cable hardware.
# Level to Level
{% embed url="" %}
### Tools Needed for This Installation
{% columns %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### Order of Installation and Hardware
Through hundreds of on site installations, we have come up with the best order to install posts into your system depending on what posts are being used. Please review the [Signature Post Order of Installation](/install/signature-cable-railing/post-order-of-installation) table and compare it against your order contents to find the best way for you to have an easy installation.
### Installation Steps
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Take the loose end of your cable spool and slide the cable through the posts on the run you are working on
* Since both ends of the cable will use the same type of post holes, it does not matter which end you start from
* As you are running the cable through the posts, place the metal sleeves on the cable facing the each post hole
* Steel Insert Sleeves will get tapped into the ½" holes on level runs
* “A-5” intermediate posts will not receive sleeves
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Once the cable passes through the final post on the run, crimp a Threaded Crimp Fitting onto the end of the cable
* Crimp the Threaded Crimp Fitting then turn it 90° and crimp it again
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Thread a Tension Receiver onto the Threaded Crimp fitting four full turns
* Pull the cable back against the post so the Tension Receiver is pulled into the post
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Return to the other end of the run where the Level Tension Kit will be installed nearest the spool, and pull the cable tight for the full run
* Place painter’s tape on the cable where the cable meets the inside edge of the post
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Use the side cutting tool located below the main crimping head to cut your cable
* Slide the cable through the cable cutter and cut the cable 3" - 4" extra past the outside edge of the post
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Remove the cable from the post
* Add and mark ½" past the painter’s tape
* Cut the cable on this mark
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Before continuing, confirm that all your needed sleeves are in place on the cable run
* This will be the last time you will be able to add sleeves on the cable
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Crimp a Threaded Crimp fitting onto the second end of the cable
* Crimp the Threaded Crimp Fitting then turn it 90° and crimp it again
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Insert the Threaded Crimp Fitting into the ½" hole on the inside face of the post
* Then, insert the Tension Receiver into the ½" hole on the outside face of the post
* Meet both in the middle of the post and thread the Tension Receiver onto the Crimp Fitting four full turns
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Slide the protective Neoprene Sleeve onto the cable near the post you are working on
* Firmly grasp the sleeve with pliers and use the supplied 5/32" Allen wrench to tighten the Tension Receiver only\
snug enough to hold in place
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Use dead blow hammer and the provided Driver Block to set the Steel Insert Sleeves into each ½" hole
* A very firm hit is needed
* Do this for every sleeve on the run
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* After all the cable runs are done and the Insert Sleeves are placed, use the Allen wrench to tighten the remaining side of the cable run in sequence
* Holding the cable with the pliers & neoprene sleeve, tighten until the cable is taut and then turn the Tension Receiver another half turn
*\*Before tensioning any cable infill, please ensure all posts and handrail are fully installed*
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
***
### Get Help from Us
Is this not the product you're looking for? Troubleshoot your issue by contacting our customer service team. [866-432-0541](tel:8664320541) or
# Inside Post Mount to Level
### Tools Needed for This Installation
{% columns %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### Order of Installation and Hardware
Through hundreds of on site installations, we have come up with the best order to install posts into your system depending on what posts are being used. Please review the [Signature Post Order of Installation](/install/signature-cable-railing/post-order-of-installation) table and compare it against your order contents to find the best way for you to have an easy installation.
### Installation Steps
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Take the loose end of your cable spool and slide the cable through the posts on the run you are working on
* Since both ends of the cable will use the same type of post holes, it does not matter which end you start from
* As you are running the cable through the posts, place the metal sleeves on the cable facing the each post hole
* Steel Insert Sleeves will get tapped into the ½" holes on level runs
* “A-5” intermediate posts will not receive sleeves
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Slide the loose end of the cable through the Adhesive Sleeve, then the Termination Washer, and into the Cable Stop
* Crimp the Cable Stop on to the end of the cable, then turn it 90° and crimp it again
*Note: In order to free a Termination washer from the metal frame they come on, you must bend one back and forth a couple times and it will break free*
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Insert the Cable Stop into the 5/16" hole
* Then turn the Termination Washer (shown above) and slide it into the 5/16" hole as well
* Pull the cable back and the Cable Stop and Termination Washer will lock against the inside of the post
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Return to the other end of the run where the Level Tension Kit will be installed nearest the spool, and pull the cable tight for the full run
* Place painter’s tape on the cable where the cable meets the inside edge of the post
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Use the side cutting tool located below the main crimping head to cut your cable
* Slide the cable through the cable cutter and cut the cable 3" - 4" extra past the outside edge of the post
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Remove the cable from the post
* Add and mark ½" past the painter’s tape
* Cut the cable on this mark
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Before continuing, confirm that all your needed sleeves are in place on the cable run
* This will be the last time you will be able to add sleeves on the cable
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Crimp a Threaded Crimp fitting onto the second end of the cable
* Crimp the Threaded Crimp Fitting then turn it 90° and crimp it again
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Insert the Threaded Crimp Fitting into the ½" hole on the inside face of the post
* Then, insert the Tension Receiver into the ½" hole on the outside face of the post
* Meet both in the middle of the post and thread the Tension Receiver onto the Crimp Fitting four full turns
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Slide the protective Neoprene Sleeve onto the cable near the post you are working on
* Firmly grasp the sleeve with pliers and use the supplied 5/32" Allen wrench to tighten the Tension Receiver only\
snug enough to hold in place
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Use dead blow hammer and the provided Driver Block to set the Steel Insert Sleeves into each ½" hole
* A very firm hit is needed
* Do this for every sleeve on the run
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* After all the cable runs are done and the Insert Sleeves are placed, use the Allen wrench to tighten the remaining side of the cable run in sequence
* Holding the cable with the pliers & neoprene sleeve, tighten until the cable is taut and then turn the Tension Receiver another half turn
*\*Before tensioning any cable infill, please ensure all posts and handrail are fully installed*
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
***
### Get Help from Us
Is this not the product you're looking for? Troubleshoot your issue by contacting our customer service team. [866-432-0541](tel:8664320541) or
# Angle to Angle
Install your tension kit properly from an one angle post to another angle post
{% embed url="" %}
### Tools Needed for This Installation
{% columns %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### Order of Installation and Hardware
Through hundreds of on site installations, we have come up with the best order to install posts into your system depending on what posts are being used. Please review the [Signature Post Order of Installation](/install/signature-cable-railing/post-order-of-installation) table and compare it against your order contents to find the best way for you to have an easy installation.
### Installation Steps
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Take the loose end of your cable spool and slide the cable through the posts on the run you are working on
* It is typically easiest to run the cable up through the bottom post towards the top post
* As you are running the cable through the posts, place the metal sleeves on the cable facing the post hole to which they will attach
* Steep Adhesive sleeves will attach to each 5/16" hole on an angled run
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Once the cable passes through the final post on the run, crimp a Threaded Crimp Fitting onto the end of the cable
* Crimp the Threaded Crimp Fitting then turn it 90° and crimp it again
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Slide a Angle Washer over the Threaded Crimp Fitting
* Thread a Tension Receiver onto the Threaded Crimp fitting four full turns
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Pull the cable back against the post so the Tension Receiver is pulled into the Angle Washer
* Ensure the Angle washer rests flush against the side of the post
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Return to the other end of the run where the Angle Tension Kit will be installed nearest the spool, and pull the cable tight for the full run
* Place painter’s tape on the cable where the cable meets the inside edge of the post
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Use the side cutting tool located below the main crimping head to cut your cable
* Slide the cable through the cable cutter and cut the cable 3" - 4" extra past the outside edge of the post
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Remove the cable from the post
* Add and mark 1½" past the painter’s tape
* Cut the cable on this mark
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Before continuing, confirm that all your needed sleeves are in place on the cable run
* This will be the last time you will be able to add sleeves on the cable
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Crimp a Threaded Crimp fitting onto the second end of the cable
* Crimp the Threaded Crimp Fitting then turn it 90° and crimp it again
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Insert the Threaded Crimp Fitting into the 5 /16" hole on the inside face of the post
* Then, insert the Tension Receiver through the Angle Washer and then into the ½" hole on the outside face of the post
* Meet both in the middle of the post and thread the Tension Receiver onto the Crimp Fitting four full turns
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Slide the protective Neoprene Sleeve onto the cable near the post you are working on
* Firmly grasp the sleeve with pliers and use the supplied 5/32" Allen wrench to tighten the Tension Receiver only\
snug enough to hold in place
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Remove the plastic cover on the Adhesive Sleeves and firmly press the sleeve against the 5 /16" holes on the run
* After all the cable runs are done and the Adhesive Sleeves are placed, use the Allen wrench to tighten the remaining side of the cable run in sequence
* Holding the cable with the pliers & neoprene sleeve, tighten until the cable is taut and then turn the Tension Receiver another half turn
*\*Before tensioning any cable infill, please ensure all posts and handrail are fully installed*
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
***
### Get Help from Us
Is this not the product you're looking for? Troubleshoot your issue by contacting our customer service team. [866-432-0541](tel:8664320541) or
# Inside Post Mount to Angle
### Tools Needed for This Installation
{% columns %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### Order of Installation and Hardware
Through hundreds of on site installations, we have come up with the best order to install posts into your system depending on what posts are being used. Please review the [Signature Post Order of Installation](/install/signature-cable-railing/post-order-of-installation) table and compare it against your order contents to find the best way for you to have an easy installation.
### Installation Steps
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Take the loose end of your cable spool and slide the cable through the posts on the run you are working on
* It is typically easiest to run the cable up through the bottom post towards the top post
* As you are running the cable through the posts, place the metal sleeves on the cable facing the post hole to\
which they will attach
* Steep Adhesive sleeves will attach to each 5/16" hole on an angled run
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Slide the loose end of the cable through the Adhesive Sleeve, then the Termination Washer, and into the Cable Stop
* Crimp the Cable Stop on to the end of the cable, then turn it 90° and crimp it again
*Note: In order to free a Termination washer from the metal frame they come on, you must bend one back and forth a couple times and it will break free*
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Insert the Cable Stop into the 5/16" hole
* Then turn the Termination Washer (shown above) and slide it into the 5/16" hole as well
* Pull the cable back and the Cable Stop and Termination Washer will lock against the inside of the post
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Return to the other end of the run where the Angle Tension Kit will be installed nearest the spool, and pull the cable tight for the full run
* Place painter’s tape on the cable where the cable meets the inside edge of the post
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Use the side cutting tool located below the main crimping head to cut your cable
* Slide the cable through the cable cutter and cut the cable 3" - 4" extra past the outside edge of the post
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Remove the cable from the post
* Add and mark 1½" past the painter’s tape
* Cut the cable on this mark
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Before continuing, confirm that all your needed sleeves are in place on the cable run
* This will be the last time you will be able to add sleeves on the cable.
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Crimp a Threaded Crimp fitting onto the second end of the cable
* Crimp the Threaded Crimp Fitting then turn it 90° and crimp it again
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Insert the Threaded Crimp Fitting into the 5/16" hole on the inside face of the post
* Then, insert the Tension Receiver into the ½" hole on the outside face of the post
* Meet both in the middle of the post and thread the Tension Receiver onto the Crimp Fitting four full turns
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Slide the protective Neoprene Sleeve onto the cable near the post you are working on
* Firmly grasp the sleeve with pliers and use the supplied 5/32" Allen wrench to tighten the Tension Receiver only snug enough to hold in place
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Remove the plastic cover on the Adhesive Sleeve and firmly press the sleeve against the 5 /16" holes on the run
* After all the cable runs are done and the Adhesive Sleeves are placed, use the Allen wrench to tighten the remaining side of the cable run in sequence
* Holding the cable with the pliers & neoprene sleeve, tighten until the cable is taut and then turn the Tension Receiver another half turn
*\*Before tensioning any cable infill, please ensure all posts and handrail are fully installed*
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
***
### Get Help from Us
Is this not the product you're looking for? Troubleshoot your issue by contacting our customer service team. [866-432-0541](tel:8664320541) or
# Fascia Requirement for Side Mount
Use these fascia dimensions and overhang limits to select a compatible side-mount system. Each section lists the required measurements for a specific mount style.
{% columns %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
### Terms
**Overhang/Bullnose:** Material that hangs past the fascia
**Fascia**: Decorative covering over the\
blocking often made of the same material as the finished walking surface
**Blocking**: Solid structure that often\
supports the walking surface (this is what\
your system will mount into Min of 4")
**Walking Surface:** Top of Decking or Flooring
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
### Side Mount Talon
**Max Panel Height (Total Panel Height**): 49"
**Max Panel Height (From Walking Surface)**: 42"
**Min Fascia Size**: 7"
**Deck Overhang: Under** 1.87"
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
### Standoff Pin
**Max Panel Height (From center of pin 1 to top of system):** 49"
**Min Distance separating center of pins**: 4"
**Min Fascia Size**: 7.25"
**Min Distance from center of pin 2 to bottom of glass line**: 1.625"
**Required Distance From Center of pins to glass edge (left or right) 6" Deck Overhang**: Under 1.47"
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
### Side Mount Ascend Talon
**Max Panel Height (Total Panel Height)**: 49" Max
**Panel Height (From Walking Surface)**: 42"
**Min Fascia Size**: 6"
**Deck Overhang**: Under .31"
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
### Slim Side Mount Post
**Max System Height (from Walking Surface)**: 42"
**\*Max Distance from Top of Mounting plate to walking surface**: 3"
**Min Distance from Top of Mounting plate to walking surface**: 1.375"
**Min Fascia Size**: 7.375"
**Deck Overhang**: Under .73"
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
### Bump Out Side Mount Post
**Max System Height (from Walking Surface)**: 42"
**\*Max Distance from Top of Mounting plate to walking surface**: 3"
**Min Distance from Top of Mounting plate to walking surface**: 1.375"
**Min Fascia Size**: 7.375"
**Deck Overhang**: Under 2"
{% hint style="warning" %}
\*When maxing out the distance from the top of mounting plate to walking surface, a custom post may be required for the desired system height
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
### Standard Side Mount Post
**Max System Height (from Walking Surface)**: 42"
**\*Max Distance from Top of Mounting plate to walking surface**: 3"
**Min Distance from Top of Mounting plate to walking surface**: 1.375"
**Min Fascia Size**: 7.375"
**Deck Overhang**: Under .3125"
{% hint style="warning" %}
\*When maxing out the distance from the top of mounting plate to walking surface, a custom post may be required for the desired system height
{% endhint %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### Related guides
* [Standard Talons Installation](/install/glass-railing/standard-talons-installation)
* [Ascend Talon Installation](/install/glass-railing/ascend-talon-installation)
* [Standoff Pins Installation](/install/glass-railing/standoff-pins-installation)
* [Glass Measure Location Guide](/install/forms/glass-measure-location-guide)
# Base Rail Installation
### Tool Needed for This Installation
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Pencil
* Tape Measure
* Chalk Line
* Level
* Rubber Mallet
* Knife/Scissors
* Miter Saw
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Drill
* 3/8" Wood Drill Bit
* 3/4" Socket Wrench/Bit
* Silicon/Epoxy
* Base Rail Wrench (Provided)
* Glass Suction Cup Handles (Provided)
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
Additional Tools for Concrete Installation
* Hammer Drill
* Impact Driver
* ¾" Socket Impact Driver Bit
* 7/16" Masonry Drill Bit
* Torque Wrench
* ¾" Socket
* Wire Brush
* Vacuum
* Portable Air Compressor (Optional)
### How to Install Baserail
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Refer to your detailed project drawing and quote list to identify the parts needed
* Prepare the parts for each run you will be working on
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Measure the distance from the edge of the mounting surface where you will mount the base rail
* Mark accordingly across the surface
* Use a chalk line to mark your full run location
*Note: For installations on to concrete, the center line of the Base Rail, where the fasteners get installed, can be no closer*\
*than 3" from the edge.*
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Measure the distance from the edge of the mounting surface where you will mount the base rail
* Mark accordingly across the surface
* Use a chalk line to mark your full run location
*Note: For installations on to concrete, the center line of the Base Rail, where the fasteners get installed, can be no closer*\
*than 3" from the edge.*
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
**Standard Flooring**
* Remove the base rail and use a 3/8" drill bit to drill 3 1/2" down in each marked location
\
**Concrete Flooring**
* Remove the base rail and use a 7/16" masonry bit to drill 4 1/2" down in each marked location
* Use a wire brush and a vacuum to clean concrete dust out of the newly made hole - Insure all debris is removed\
from the cavity
*Helpful Tip: Slightly bevel the entry to the hole with the bit*
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* For exterior decking that does not adequate drainage, Base Rail Drain Blocks may be placed under the Base\
Rail to allow water to seep
* To install, place each shim over the previously drilled holes and continue with your installation
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* It may be necessary to cut the base rail to length
* It is important to leave at least 2 mounting holes on the part of the base rail you intend to use
* The minimum length that can be used 18 1/2"
* If you need a smaller section then, you would need to cut the preceding base rail down as well to allow for the\
next piece to be able to be mounted securely
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Place your base rail where it will be mounted down
* Set the mounting washer into the mounting hole Standard Flooring
* Using a 3/4" socket wrench fasten the 1/2" x 4" lag down into your surface, repeat this for each mounting location\
on this base rail
\
**Concrete Flooring**
* Using an impact driver to drive the concrete screws down until snug, over tightening can lead to spin out
* Once mounted, check for plumb lengthwise & widthwise
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Where two base rail lengths butt up against each other, you will need to use the joining pins to connect them
* Using a mallet or dead blow hammer, gently tap the threaded end of each pin into place until the threads are completely inserted
* Connect the two base rail lengths by sliding the second on over the pins together
* Connect the two base rails together and repeat STEPS 2-7 for the new base rail length
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Prepare the glass clamp assemblies by screwing the nuts up the metal plate they are mounted on
* This will allow the clamp to fit in the base rail, and the glass to fit in the clamp
* Slide the acrylic Base Rail Clamp over the metal plate
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* When all your base rails are mounted down, place all the glass clamp assemblies into the channel Residential Installations
* You will use 4 glass clamp assemblies for every 4'6" base rail section
**Commercial Installations**
* You will use 7 glass clamp assemblies for every 4'6" base rail section
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* For the residential installations, make sure to follow the glass clamp assembly spacing outlined above
* For sections that have to be cut down to fit the run, ensure you have a glass clamp 2" from each edge of the\
glass panel and space the remaining clamps no further than 12" apart
*Note: You may not need to use all 4 glass clamps on smaller custom cut sections of base rail*
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* For the commercial installations, make sure to follow the glass clamp assembly spacing outlined above
* For sections that have to be cut down to fit the run, ensure you have a glass clamp 2" from each edge of the\
glass panel and space the remaining clamps no further than 4 3/4" apart
*Note: You may not need to use all 7 glass clamps on smaller custom cut sections of base rail*
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* With the grips in place, refer to your drawings and panel labels
* Use the suction cups to move each panel into place on the base rail
*Note: To adjust for a sloped mounting surface, Glass Shims can be added to the glass clamps, as shown above, to line up the tops of each panel. These are able to be stacked to achieve the desired results.*
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Slide one shim in between the glass panel and the acrylic isolator
* To do this you may need to tilt the glass towards the opposite side from the base rail that you are placing the shims
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Adjust the nuts as needed to level the glass
* Adjust the nuts on the opposite side of the plastic shim first (you may need to use the long wrench)
* Tighten these counter clockwise until the panel is level
* Then adjust the inside nuts to start putting pressure on the glass
* Check the level once everything is snug
* Go back to the outside & make sure the nuts are tight
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Using the table below, stick the provided 2" adhesive pads to each base rail section using the table below
| Base rail cover length | # of Adhesive sleeves per side |
| ---------------------- | ------------------------------ |
| 4' 6" | 2 |
| 8' | 3 |
| 12' | 4 |
| {% endcolumn %} | |
| {% endcolumns %} | |
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Take each cover and clip them into place
* The lip of the cover should lock in place on the inside of the channel
* Tap them down to ensure they are seated properly
* It may be necessary to use a rubber mallet to properly seat the covers
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Once the covers are fully seated, locate the Gap filler pieces
* Begin installing your gap filler pieces in between each pair of glass panels by cutting each piece to size and placing the pointed edge down into the channel
* The flexible barbs will hold each piece in place
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Measure the run & cut the gasket to length using scissors or a knife
* Make sure to not stretch the gasket when measuring it for cutting as it will shrink back to its original size and end up leaving a portion of the inner base rail exposed
* Using glass cleaner as a lubricant, begin pushing the gasket down inside the channel working from left to right
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* For any exposed end of base rail, attach the Base Rail End Cap
* You can use silicone or epoxy to hold it into place
* Make sure to have the “weep hole” positioned at the bottom of the end cap and no silicone covering it up
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
***
### Get Help from Us
Is this not the product you're looking for? Troubleshoot your issue by contacting our customer service team. [866-432-0541](tel:8664320541) or
# Standoff Pins Installation
### Tools Needed from the Installation Kit
{% columns %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### Other Tools and Supplies Not Included in the Installation Kit
{% columns %}
{% column %}
• Plumb Bob
\
• Drill
\
• 15/64" Drill Bit
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
• Pencil
\
• Laser Line Level (Optional)
\
• String
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
• 1-5
/8" Hole Saw
\
• String Line Level
\
• Spirit Level
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### Things to Know Before You Get Started
{% columns %}
{% column %}
• Read over the provided material prior to the start of your installation
\
• This is, at minimum, a 2 person job
\
• Viewrail Glass systems and fittings are designed to have a 1" gap between
panels of glass
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
• Use a pencil and either a long straight edge or laser level
to mark the pin placements based on the engineering
\
prints provided to you
\
• It is important to make sure the hole locations are in line
and level to each other
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
• It is important to mount glass structure to a solid
material - **Do not mount any hardware to drywall or
other compressible material**
\
• Use a drywall circle cutter or a 1-5
/8" hole saw to remove
the drywall from the mounting location
\
• Try not to go any deeper than the drywall, as the center
hole of the hole will need a pilot hole drilled into it to
received a screw that will hold the standoff pin in place
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
**Drywall or Wood**
\
• Using a 15/64" drill bit, drill a pilot hole where the pencil
lines cross about 4-1
/2" deep
\
**Concrete**
\
• Refer to the recommendation of the brand of epoxy
you are using and predrill the correct sized holes for
these 3
/8" threaded studs
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
**Drywall or Wood**
\
• Using a 3
/8" x 6" lag bolt & a 3
/8" washer, secure the
Standoff Pin Mount into the holes drilled in Step 3
\
• The slotted hole is there to allow for some adjustment of
the final position of the pins to ensure they line up with
the holes in the glass
\
**Concrete**
\
• Apply concrete epoxy in to the holes as indicated
\
• Insert the threaded studs into each hole
\
• Allow the epoxy to cure per manufacturer’s specs
\
• Torque to 50 lb-ft
\
*Note: SEOR is responsible to determine if the attachment is adequate*
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
• Once your standoff pin mount is centered, thread on the
Standoff Pin Base
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
• Using string and a line level, ensure that the upper row
of pins are level with each other
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
• Following the same process as the upper row pins,
mount the lower pins
\
• Ensure they are plumb
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
• Use the optional Standoff Pin Skirt to cover any wall
blemishes
\
• Secure with a small amount of silicone
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
• Thread a Standoff Pin Lock Screw into the standoff pin
and secure it with a 3
/16" Allen wrench
\
• Place a plastic bushing onto each Standoff Pin cover
\
*Note: Take this time to ensure the wall is cleaned of all pencil
lines etc. before proceeding. There will be very little space
between the wall and glass once it is mounted.*
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
• Using glass suction cup handles, position the 1st glass
panel into place
\
• Slide it over the plastic bushing on each pin
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
• While a partner holds the glass panel in place, select the
remaining plastic washer and the Standoff Pin Cap
\
• Place the plastic washer on the cap’s threaded stud,
and thread the Cap into the Standoff Pin Base
\
• This will hold the glass
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
• Repeat Steps 10-11 for the remaining glass panels
\
• Ensure that glass panels are level and plumb with
each other
\
• Tighten all Standoff Pin Caps the supplied strap wrench
\
*Note: Because the holes made in the glass are bigger than
the pins that hold them, you can position and reposition the
glass to ensure that all panels line up the way they should.*
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
***
### Get Help from Us
Is this not the product you're looking for? Troubleshoot your issue by contacting our customer service team. [866-432-0541](tel:8664320541) or
# Glass Clip Installation
How to install clips for glass panel railing
### Tools Needed From The Installation Kit
{% columns %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### Things to Know For This Installation
* Read over the provided material prior to the start of your installation.
* This project requires a minimum of two people.
* Please note, for best results store glass hardware at room temperature (68°F+ ) up to the point of install. Cold weather can cause the rubber material to shrink and lose flexibility and grip. This could cause the glass panel to slip and require retightening in the future. Installation during warmer weather is ideal.
* When tightening the glass clips, be sure to tighten by hand, as power tools\
can damage the screws.
### How to Install Universal Standoff Pins
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Locate and prepare your glass clips
* Using the 3/16" Allen wrench, remove the two bolts from one side
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* If you do not have slots or holes in your glass, remove the middle pin
* Slots are usually only needed for side mounted, post to post glass
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Make sure the open face of the clip is facing the surface you will be mounting the glass from
* Repeat these steps for the remaining posts on the run you will be working on
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Using the 3/16" Allen Wrench, attach the larger glass clip half to the post
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* Using the provided suction cups, identify and move the relevant glass panel into place
* Refer to your provided shop drawings to find the needed panel
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Using the provided suction cups, identify and move the relevant glass panel into place
* Refer to your provided shop drawings to find the needed panel
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
* While one person holds the glass in place, begin reattaching the other glass clip half
* Use the 3/16" Allen wrench to tighten each bolt snugly
*Note: It is helpful to tighten each glass clip until snug, & then go back and retighten them until they are very tight. This will help keep the panel straight.*
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
* Repeat these steps for the rest of the run
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
***
### Get Help from Us
Is this not the product you're looking for? Troubleshoot your issue by contacting our customer service team. [866-432-0541](tel:8664320541) or
# Vedera Installation
### Tools Needed for This Installation
### Things to Know Before You Get Started
{% columns %}
{% column %}
• Read over the provided material prior to the start of your installation
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
***
### Vedera Tread Installation Steps
{% columns %}
{% column %}
• Once your FLIGHT treads are installed, count the
predrilled standoff pin hanger bolts and prepare the
correct amount of pin hardware
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
• Thread a Glass Stud over each hanger bolt until the stud
is flush against the tread
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
• Slide a plastic bushing over each Glass Stud
\
• At this point, read the rest of the instructions & prep
the remaining hardware for the first panel you will
be installing
\
• This will shorten the amount of time manually holding
the panel in place
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
• Refer to the engineering prints provided to you to
identify the first panel
\
• With the help of a partner, use Glass Suction Cup
Handles to position the 1st glass panel into place
\
• Slide the holes in the panel over each gasket and hold
this in place while the remaining hardware is mounted
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column width="50%" %}
• While your partner holds the glass in place, slide the
Vedera Shim then the Metal Clamp Plate over each of
the hanger bolts as shown
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="50%" %}
• Slide a Vedera Pin on to each of the hanger bolts
\
• Continue to hold the panel in place as the fastening
mechanism is applied in the following step
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
• Hand tighten a nut on to each hanger bolt
\
• There will be play in the exact positioning of the glass
panel, this will allow you to make adjustments in Step 10
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
• Using a torque wrench and a 9
/16" socket head, tighten
the first and last nut on the Vedera Pin to 23 lb ft
\
• This will make it easier if you need to readjust the fitment
once all the other glass panels are installed
Repeat **STEPS 1-8** for each panel on
\
your run
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
• Once all the panels are in place, ensure that each is
aligned with it’s neighbors
\
• There will be a 1" gap between panels
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
• Using a torque wrench and a 9
/16" socket head, tighten
all the remaining nuts on the Vedera Pins to 23 lb ft
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
• Identify and prepare the Vedera wood covers
\
• Although the rubber O rings will provide a snug fit in the
predrilled holes for the wood covers, it is recommended
to use silicone on the face of the pin around the bolt
hole in order to provide additional strength
\
• Apply a line of silicone around each O ring
\
• Attach the wood covers onto each pin
\
• These will fit snugly and could require soft taps to place
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
*If your FLIGHT system has a platform and there are at least
two long Vedera Caps that meet at a corner, they will come
to you with an extra few inches of cap. This is so you can dry
fit them and cut on site for the best look possible.*
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
***
### Get Help from Us
Is this not the product you're looking for? Troubleshoot your issue by contacting our customer service team. [866-432-0541](tel:8664320541) or
# Hidden Side Mount Installation
### Tools & Supplies Needed for this Installation
{% columns %}
{% column %}
• Tape Measure
\
• Pencil
\
• Box Level
\
• Torpedo Leve
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
• Chop Saw w/ Metal Rated Blade
\
• Drill
\
• T-30 Bit
\
• Allen Wrenches: 3
/16" & 7
/16"
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
• Torque Wrench
\
• 1-1
/8
" Socket
\
• Double Sided Tape (Optional)
\
• Silicone
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### Things to Know Before You Get Started
{% columns %}
{% column %}
• Read over the provided material prior to the start of your installation
\
• Viewrail Glass systems and fittings are designed to have a 1” gap between
panels of glass
\
• Many of our products are aided by a second or third set of hands, in some
cases it can be a necessity. Plan accordingly.
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
***
### Hidden Side Mount Glass Installation Steps
{% columns %}
{% column %}
• Measure your environment for the length of Glass Track
you will need
\
• If installing the Glass Track next to a wall, subtract 1-1
/2"
from the measurement above for each side that borders
a wall
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
• Cut the Glass Track to the measurement figured out in
**STEP 1** with a saw with a blade rated to cut Aluminum
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
• With help, hold the Glass Track up in the location that
you intend to install it
\
• The thickness of the top of the fascia cover will dictate
the vertical placement of the Glass Track
Thickness of the fascia cover material + 9
/32" (.28125")
\ EXAMPLE A:
\
Fascia Thickness: 1
/2
"
\
Formula: 1
/2
" + 9
/32"
\= 25/32" from finished floor
\ EXAMPLE B:
\
Fascia Thickness: 3
/8
"
\
Formula: 3
/8
" + 9
/32"
\= 21/32" from finished floor
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
• Using the supplied hardware secure the Glass Track
into position
\
• It is not required to populate every hole in the track
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
• Identify the correct glass or temporary plywood panels
that will go on this run of railing
\
• Thread (1) Hidden Track T-Nut and (1) Set Screw
together for each panel mounting hole
\
• Slide them in to the track grooves
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
MINIMUM 2 PEOPLE REQUIRED FOR THIS STEP
\
• With someone holding the panel steady on the floor
above the track, slide the Track T-Nut assemblies down
the track to line them up with each pair of holes
\
• Tighten each set screw using a 3
/16" Allen wrench
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
• Thread an Inner Sleeve Fitting over each Set Screw
until finger tight
\
• Slide a Combined Gasket over the Inner Sleeve Fitting
\
• Use a level to align them
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
• Peel the backing off of the adhesive side of the Rubber
Gaskets and discard
\
• Attached the Rubber Gasket to the Hidden Side Mount
Plate, ensuring to line up the holes and the adhesive
adheres well to the back of the plate
\
*Note: Position the Hidden Side Mount Plate with the arrow
facing up, and align the Rubber Gasket so the hole nearest
the edge is at the top.*
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
MINIMUM 2 PEOPLE REQUIRED FOR THIS STEP
\
• Slide the glass or temporary plywood panel over each of
the Combined Gaskets, moving them from side to side if
needed to ensure proper alignment
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
MINIMUM 2 PEOPLE REQUIRED FOR THIS STEP
\
• While your partner holds the panel, slide each Hidden
Side Mount Plate assembly (STEP 8) over each pair of
Combined Gaskets
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
Glass Panel Install Only *(Excludes Temporary Plywood Panels)*
\
• Using a 7
/16" Allen wrench,turn the Inner Sleeve Fittings,
in or out to change the alignment of the glass panel
\
• Using a level, verify alignment of the panels along the
top edge of the glass & vertically along the primary plane
\
• Ensure there is a 1" gap between the glass panel and
any other glass panel or wall\*
\
*Note: Our design teams use a standard 1"*
\
*gap between glass
panels and glass panels and walls. Ensure to review your
prints to confirm the spacing for your system.*
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
MINIMUM 2 PEOPLE REQUIRED FOR THIS STEP
\
• Thread the provided 3
/4
" - 16 Low Profile Hex Nut over
the exposed thread of each of the Inner Sleeve Fittings
until snug
\
*Note: If installing temporary plywood panels, tighten the
bolts until very snug. At this point your job is complete. You
will complete the rest of the installation when you are ready
to remove the plywood panels.*
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
Glass Panel Install Only *(Excludes Temporary Plywood Panels)*
\
• Once the glass panel is plumb, use a torque wrench to
secure the hex nuts to 35 lb-ft
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
Glass Panel Install Only *(Excludes Temporary Plywood Panels)*
\
While there are a few ways to accomplish these final steps,
we have found this process to be the easiest.
\
• Hang a Cover Fascia Clip on each of the glass mounting
assemblies that you installed in previous steps but do not
push down hard enough to clip in on
\
• Apply a couple of strips of double sided adhesive tape to
the front of each clip - try to not cover any mounting holes
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
Glass Panel Install Only *(Excludes Temporary Plywood Panels)*
\
• With help, line up the finished fascia board so that it is
plumb with the finished floor and any walls, other fascia
boards or anything else that it will need to align with
\
• Press it in towards the Clips and hold for a few moments
\
• Carefully remove the fascia cover with the clips attached
\
*Note: Depending on your order, Viewrail may not supply the
fascia board.*
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
Glass Panel Install Only *(Excludes Temporary Plywood Panels)*
\
• Place the fascia cover on to a soft clean surface
\
• Using the provided #8 x 3
/8
" screws, secure the clips to
the back of the fascia cover
\
• Apply a thin bead of silicone caulk to both wings of the
\
• Rehang the fascia assembly and press firmly into place
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
***
### Get Help from Us
Is this not the product you're looking for? Troubleshoot your issue by contacting our customer service team. [866-432-0541](tel:8664320541) or
# Ascend Talon Installation
### Tools Needed for this Installation
### Things to Know Before You Get Started
{% columns %}
{% column %}
• Read over the provided material prior to the start of your installation\
• This project requires a minimum of two people\
• Viewrail Glass systems and fittings are designed to have a 1" gap between panels of glass
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
• Using your provided project layout identify the run you want to do first\
• Measure and snap a chalk line to mark the run
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
• Take the Ascend Talon and center it on your chalk line\
• If the foot plate has marks, these can be used to orient the post properly\
• Mark the hole placements\
• At least four holes must be populated, with at least one hole on each side\
• Set the talon aside
\
*Note: It is possible with our textured powder coats, that the mark lines on the Aluminum Ascend Talon feet may be hard to see*
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
• Using a 3 /16" drill bit, drill a pilot hole for each of the marked location to a depth of approximately 3"
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
• Using the T-30 Torx bit, screw the mounting screws down until snug
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
• Ensure the talon is plumb\
• Use shims as needed and snap off any excess\
• Slide the foot cover over the top of the Ascend Talon and into place
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
• Identify and prepare your glass panel\
• Attach the first gasket around the flow drilled hole on the talon, and then attached the second gasket to the dovetail washer itself\
• Doing this will ensure that the gaskets remain in the correct position during installation of the glass panel
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
• Move the panel into position, lining up the holes in the glass with the predrilled holes on the talon\
• Prepare the mounting assembly by running the 3 /8” x 1-1 /2” flat head bolts through the dovetail washer and the nylon bushing\
• Using a 7 /32" Allen wrench, fasten the mounting assembly through the panel to the talon
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
• Make sure the glass is level and tighten the bolts firmly
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
• Apply silicone into the middle of the Ascend Talon cover, as shown, to help keep it in place
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
• Put the ascend talon cover against the glass\
• Slide the cover straight down to lock the cover in place
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
***
### Get Help from Us
Is this not the product you're looking for? Troubleshoot your issue by contacting our customer service team. [866-432-0541](tel:8664320541) or
# Standard Talons Installation
### Tools Needed for the Installation
### Things to Know Before You Get Started
{% columns %}
{% column %}
• Read over the provided material prior to the start of your installation\
• This is, at minimum, a 2 person job\
• Viewrail Glass systems and fittings are normally designed to have a 1" gap between panels of glass
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
***
### Surface Mount Glass Talon Installation Steps
{% columns %}
{% column %}
• Before beginning, refer to your layout and compare the layout with the actual environment\
• It will be useful to set up your Surface Talons on each run before continuing\
• Site conditions may have changed\
• Measuring and laying out your Surface Talons first will help ensure a smooth installation\
• This will also help identify your starting points for a chalk line
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
• If applicable, when identifying your Surface Talon Placements, corners should be double checked\
• For any 90° or 45° corners, it will be useful to:
1. Set your talons in place
2. Refer to your layout & mark where each panel will end
3. Use the 90° or 45° Glass Cap Couplers to make sure\
there is enough space in between panels
\
• If necessary adjust talon placement, ensuring to adjust\
the entire affected run
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
• Once completed, refer to your drawing and your set up Talons\
• Snap a chalk line where the glass will need to run\
• Make sure the glass line is far enough back from any nosing so the Surface Talon can mount into blocking\
• Using the layout and hardware provided, identify, set up, and mark the center of where each talon will sit
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
• Take the talon and center it on your chalk line\
• The foot plate has marks that are used to orient the talon properly along the chalk line\
• Mark the hole placements\
• There are 6 holes on the foot of the talon, a minimum of 4 must be populated, 2 on each side\
• Set the talon aside
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
• Using a 3 /16" drill bit, drill a pilot hole for each marked location\
• Pilot holes drilled into wood must be at least 1 /2" shallower than the length of fasteners you are using
\
Note: Orders to be mounted on wood flooring come with\
3-1/2"
fasteners by default.
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
• It is easiest to install this system when the bolts holes (A) used to adjust the panel are facing an easily accessible location\
• Set your talon accordingly\
• Using the T-30 Torx Bit, screw the post mounting screws (B) down into your mounting structure
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
• It is important to make sure your Surface Talon is very level at this point\
• Use a spirit level (or comparable alternative) to see if the talon is level\
• If the talon needs adjustment, back the screws out enough to use the composite shims to adjust\
• Adjust and repeat as needed, and break off any excess shim materia
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
• Repeat steps 1-7 for the talons on this run\
• Make sure the talons all line up on the run to ensure the best possible outcome
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
• It is very helpful to use a piece of straight ¾" plywood to drop into two consecutive talons as a test to ensure they are in line with each other\
• When dropping in the ¾" plywood, there should be no pressure or significant resistance\
• If there is, it is likely the talons are not square to each other and will create pressure on your glass panel
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
• Slide the foot cover in place over the talon\
• You can use silicone, epoxy or equivalent to hold the foot cover in place
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
• Place the steel pressure plate into each talon\
• Slide the Polycarbonate Gasket into place as shown
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
• Refer to your engineering drawings to locate the panel to install\
• Using the glass suction cups, grab and move the panel into place\
• Remember to avoid hitting edges or corners and to drop the glass straight down into the talons
\
\&#xNAN;***Caution: It is very important to keep the glass from hitting sharp edges or corners. Make sure you are setting the glass straight down into the talon grip.***
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
• With the glass panel in place, use the 3/16" Allen wrench to tighten the two set screws in the talon\
• You can adjust the level of the glass by alternately loosening or tightening the screws\
• Use a level towards the top of the panel to help adjust your level
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
• Repeat all steps for any remaining runs of glass railing
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
***
### Get Help from Us
Is this not the product you're looking for? Troubleshoot your issue by contacting our customer service team. [866-432-0541](tel:8664320541) or
# Welcome to Our Guides
Start here to learn, plan, price, install, and maintain modern stairs and railing systems.
Use this page to get to the right guide fast.
Start with a section if you know the topic. Start with a task if you know your goal. Or, search a question below to get started.
### Browse by section
### Start with your goal
#### Learn the basics
* [What are Floating Stairs](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/what-are-floating-stairs) — Start here if you are new to floating stair systems.
* [What is Cable Railing?](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/what-is-cable-railing) — Understand how cable railing works and where it fits best.
* [What is Glass Railing?](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/what-is-glass-railing) — Compare glass systems, use cases, and design tradeoffs.
#### Plan a project
* [How Can I Customize My FLIGHT Staircase?](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-flight-staircase) — Build out stair style, finish, railing, and upgrades.
* [How Can I Customize My Cable Railing?](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing) — Choose system, infill, mounting, finish, and handrail.
* [How Can I Customize My Glass Railing?](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-glass-railing) — Follow the full planning path for glass projects.
#### Price a project
* [How much do FLIGHT Floating Stairs Cost?](/guides/pricing/how-much-do-flight-floating-stairs-cost) — Review typical ranges and main price drivers.
* [How much does Viewrail Cable Railing Cost?](/guides/pricing/how-much-does-viewrail-cable-railing-cost) — See what changes cable railing pricing.
* [How Much Does Glass Railing Cost?](/guides/pricing/how-much-does-glass-railing-cost) — Compare system and glass choices by price.
#### Install a system
* [How Do I Install a FLIGHT System?](/guides/install/how-do-i-install-a-flight-system) — Choose the right install path for Mono, Cantilever, or Stack.
* [How do I Install a Cable or Rod Railing System?](/guides/install/how-do-i-install-a-cable-or-rod-railing-system) — Compare cable and rod before you start installation.
* [How Do I Install a Glass Railing System?](/guides/install/how-do-i-install-a-glass-railing-system) — Review the full glass install process.
#### Maintain your system
* [How Do I Maintain Cable Railing?](/guides/maintenance/how-do-i-maintain-cable-railing) — Keep cables clean, tensioned, and ready for long-term use.
* [How Do I Maintain Glass Railing?](/guides/maintenance/how-do-i-maintain-glass-railing) — Clean glass correctly and protect long-term performance.
* [How Do I Maintain Wood Products?](/guides/maintenance/how-do-i-maintain-wood-stair-treads-and-handrails) –– Start with a stable environment and limit exposure to moisture.
# What are Floating Stairs
[Floating stairs](https://www.viewrail.com/floating-stairs/) are designed to look like they’re floating in mid-air without little to no structural support. Unlike traditional staircases, which rely on stringers running along either side of the steps, floating stairs use specialized mounting systems that are either hidden within the treads or attached directly to the wall. The mount is then either attached to the wall or hidden underneath the stair treads.
The final product is a sleek, elegant, and modern staircase with lots of open space. It's no wonder it's become a staple of high-end interior design.
**Related Read:** [What’s the difference between open riser stairs and mono stringers?](https://www.viewrail.com/floating-stairs/whats-the-difference-between-open-riser-stairs-a-mono-stringer/)
Floating stairs can be paired with several different types of railing and handrail options — often, they are installed with glass, cable, or rod railing. Many of these options come with components that can be hidden in the posts themselves: to enhance the illusion of floating. It’s common to see them paired with different types of modern railing options, such as:
* [Glass railing](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/what-is-glass-railing)
* [Cable railing](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/what-is-cable-railing)
* [Rod railing](https://www.viewrail.com/product-category/railing/rod-railing/)
*“It’s one of the main cornerstones of a modern house. Done properly, it becomes an architectural gem that makes everything feel more spacious and light.” – Mayer Dahan, chief executive of Prime Five Homes, a Los Angeles real estate development and renovation firm.*
### Why Choose Floating Stairs?
[Floating stairs](https://www.viewrail.com/floating-stairs/), which remove visual obstructions and maximize living space, are especially popular in open concept spaces, new builds, and high-end homes. They're becoming an increasingly popular choice in today’s design world by architects, designers, and builders alike.
Floating staircases are also extremely versatile. Depending on the type of stair tread used, they can be installed indoors or outdoors. Even small spaces, like studio apartments, can utilize floating stairs — their open-concept profile is a great way to make a tiny room look larger.
Above all, floatings stairs make a visual statement. The excellent craftsmanship and sculptural design can become the centerpiece of a home or stunning addition to special space. With a wide array of finish colors, natural wood treads, and unique railing options, these stair systems can bring organic textures, high design, and rich character to any home.
### How Long Do Floating Stairs Last?
Floating stairs are built to last decades. Because they're custom-engineered for their specific installation environment — accounting for the wall structure, load requirements, and spatial conditions — they're inherently well-suited to the space they're in. With proper maintenance, a quality floating staircase is a long-term architectural investment.
### How are Floating Stairs Supported?
Floating stairs can be supported using steel brackets, a central spine, or hidden stringers. These methods provide stability and support while maintaining the illusion that the treads are floating. Each approach allows for a visually stunning staircase that can be a unique addition to any space.
**Central spine (mono stringer).** A single steel beam runs through the center of the staircase. Each tread attaches to the spine via brackets, so the support is underneath and out of sight. This is the approach used in Viewrail's [FLIGHT Mono stair system](https://www.viewrail.com/floating-stairs/mono/).
**Hidden wall-mounted supports.** Steel supports are anchored to the wall or an adjacent structure and concealed entirely within or behind the treads. The [floating stair treads](https://www.viewrail.com/modern-stair-treads/) appear to project from the wall with nothing holding them up. Viewrail's [FLIGHT Cantilever](https://www.viewrail.com/floating-stairs/cantilever/) takes this approach.
**Hidden or recessed stringers.** The stringers are tucked inside the tread assembly and fastened to the wall. Our [FLIGHT Stack system](https://www.viewrail.com/floating-stairs/flight-stack/) uses this method.
Each method achieves the a floating visual, the difference lies in the structural approach, the wall construction required, and the overall aesthetic.
### Can Floating Stairs Curve?
Yes, floating stairs can curve. However, given the constraints of the rigid system material, like steel, it often requires more engineering. The results can be stunning but it usually leads to increases in cost. Curved floating stairs are most often installed in high-end spaces and can even be helically designed. A curved floating staircase can become a dramatic focal point of any space.
Spiral staircases are the most common form of a curved stair system, but floating stairs are not limited to a traditional spiral staircase design. Massive wooden stairs and self supporting stringer staircases can also curve, but these are the staircases that will require more engineering.
### Metal Stringer Stairs
Floating stairs that use one or more metal stringers for a floating look are common, and the metal can come in a variety of materials; [we manufacture our stringers from steel](https://www.viewrail.com/floating-stairs/steel-staircases/). Depending on the design, these types of staircases may incorporate a double or single stringer.
Our floating staircase stringers are unique in that they are flow-drilled and bolted together, rather than welded. Welding distorts the metal, causing a scar on the metal where the two parts are joined together. It doesn’t look great, and that requires extra effort from a design perspective to be able to cover up the look of the metal in the spot where it’s been welded.
Flow-drilling (or friction drilling) eliminates the weld entirely. We use a flow drill to create a long hole in the metal. The steel is displaced — not by heat from the drill bit — but by the friction that is caused by the flow drill’s quick movement.
The metal bends downward, creating a circular tube. We change out the drill bit, then repeat the process to add threads to the circular tube so that a bolt can be inserted. Flow drilling also creates a rim around the top of this circular tube, where the bolt rests.
A bolted stair mono stringer is also easier to ship, because instead of shipping the steel stringer with all of the welded brackets, we can ship the mono stringer and brackets separately, and the customer can easily bolt them together at home or on the job site.
### Floating Stair Configurations
Floating stairs aren't limited to a single layout. The same floating support systems can be applied across a variety of configurations — the choice depends on the space, the architecture, and the design intent.
**Straight.** The most common configuration: a single, uninterrupted run from one level to the next. Clean, minimal, and versatile — straight floating stairs work in almost any space and are a popular choice for both new builds and remodels.
**L-shaped (quarter-turn).** The staircase makes a 90° turn, typically at a landing. The turn can help a staircase fit into a corner or transition between levels in a more compact footprint than a straight run would allow.
**U-shaped (switchback).** The staircase makes two 90° turns, reversing direction entirely. U-shaped stairs are often used when vertical space is limited relative to horizontal space, or when the design calls for a dramatic, symmetrical look.
**Curved.** Rather than turning at a hard angle, the staircase follows a gradual curve as it rises. Curved floating stairs require more engineering, but the result can be a striking architectural centerpiece. Cost is typically higher as a result.
**Spiral.** A [spiral staircase](https://www.viewrail.com/floating-stairs/flight-spiral/) rotates tightly around a central axis, often making one or more full 360° turns. Spiral stairs are compact and work well in small spaces. They can be built as floating stairs — using a curved mono stringer or no stringer at all — but a spiral staircase is not floating by default. Curved stairs simply turn gently while they rise, but they remain less than 90º. A spiral staircase makes several tight turns, and often make several 360º rotations.
### Related topics
* [Types of Staircases](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/types-of-staircases)
* [Are Floating Stairs Safe?](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/are-floating-stairs-safe)
* [Open Riser Stair vs. Mono Stringer Stairs](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/types-of-staircases/open-riser-vs.-floating-stairs)
* [How Much do Floating Stairs Cost?](https://www.viewrail.com/floating-stairs/how-much-do-floating-stairs-cost/)
# Are Floating Stairs Safe?
## Are Floating Stairs Safe?
Yes, floating stairs are safe when designed and installed to meet or exceed building codes. Viewrail’s [**FLIGHT systems**](https://www.viewrail.com/floating-stairs/) combine cutting-edge engineering with industry-leading safety features to create floating staircases that are as secure as they are stylish. By exceeding weight standards, adhering to the IRC’s safety regulations, and offering customizable safety options, Viewrail ensures peace of mind for families and businesses alike.
When properly designed and installed, floating stairs are no more dangerous than traditional staircases. With Viewrail, you can have both the minimalist aesthetic you want and the safety you need.
#### What Makes a Staircase Dangerous?
To evaluate the safety of any staircase, it’s essential to address three critical factors:
1. [Weight Capacity](https://www.viewrail.com/floating-stairs/are-floating-stairs-safe/#Weight)
2. [Fall-Through Concerns](https://www.viewrail.com/floating-stairs/are-floating-stairs-safe/#Fall)
3. [Slip Resistance](https://www.viewrail.com/floating-stairs/are-floating-stairs-safe/#Slip)
Floating stairs, when designed and installed properly, can meet or exceed safety standards in all three areas. Let’s take a closer look at each of these factors.
### Weight Capacity of Floating Stairs
The strength of a floating staircase is a crucial safety consideration. According to the [**International Building Code (IBC)**](https://codes.iccsafe.org/content/IBC2021P2/chapter-10-means-of-egress#IBC2021P2_Ch10_Sec1011.5), stair treads must support at least **300 lbs** of concentrated weight.
Viewrail’s treads far surpass this standard, as [**third-party testing by ICC NTA**](https://www.viewrail.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/ESR-4797-1.pdf) revealed:
* It takes over **2,000 lbs** to pull a single tread off its bracket.
* It requires over **3,000 lbs** to cause actual damage to the treads.
Additionally, Viewrail uses [grade 8 bolts](https://lightningboltandsupply.com/grade-8-bolts.html), one of the strongest available in the U.S., combined with thread locking adhesive to prevent loosening, corrosion, and leakage over time. The use of [flow drilling](https://flowdrill.com/) technology ensures secure, distortion-free connections, resulting in a more robust and visually seamless product.
### Fall-Through Concerns for Open-Riser Stairs
One of the most common worries with floating stairs is the open-riser design, which removes the vertical structure between treads. To address this, Viewrail complies with the [IRC’s 4-inch sphere rule](https://codes.iccsafe.org/s/IRC2021P3/chapter-3-building-planning/IRC2021P3-Pt03-Ch03-SecR312.1.3), ensuring that no gap in the staircase exceeds 4 inches. This rule is designed to prevent small children from falling through the stairs.
For families seeking additional security, Viewrail offers options such as:
* **Closed-Riser Designs:** The [**FLIGHT Stack**](https://www.viewrail.com/floating-stairs/flight-stack/) system combines a modern aesthetic with closed risers for added safety.
* **Glass Railings:** Installing [**glass railings**](https://www.viewrail.com/glass-railing/) minimizes fall risks without compromising the staircase’s minimalist look.
* **Wider Treads:** Choosing wider treads creates a larger walking surface, improving stability.
### Slip Resistance on Floating Stairs
While the IRC does not mandate specific slip-resistance standards, Viewrail provides several options to enhance traction:
1. **Wire-Brushed Treads:** All Viewrail floating stair systems come standard with [**wire-brushed treads**](https://www.viewrail.com/product/4-thick-stair-treads/#product-features), offering a natural, textured surface for improved grip.
2. **Grip Strips:** These sleek stainless-steel strips adhere to treads, creating friction without detracting from the modern design. [**Grip strip**](https://www.viewrail.com/floating-stairs/flight/options/)s are especially beneficial in commercial environments or high-traffic areas.
3. **LED Integration:** Optional [**LED-compatible treads and handrails**](https://www.viewrail.com/led/) improve visibility, making staircases safer, particularly in dimly lit areas.
### Advanced Engineering for Safety
Viewrail’s floating stairs are designed with both aesthetics and safety in mind. These innovations ensure that every component of a Viewrail staircase is secure, durable, and easy to install. Key engineering features include:
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#### Bolted Stringers
Unlike traditional welding, Viewrail employs flow drilling to create threaded holes for bolts, ensuring distortion free connections.
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#### Header and Footer Plates
Each plate is secured with six high-grade bolts, enabling the system to support more than five times the recommended weight.
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### Certifications and Code Compliance
Safety begins with meeting or exceeding industry standards. Viewrail’s [FLIGHT Mono](https://www.viewrail.com/floating-stairs/flight/) system is the first floating stair system in the United States to receive certification from the International Code Council (ICC). It’s one of the many ways that Viewrail shows its commitment to safety and compliance.
It’s important to note that building codes can vary by state. While the IRC is widely used across 49 states, homeowners should consult local codes to ensure compliance. Viewrail provides guidance to help customers navigate these requirements.
### Making Floating Stairs Child-Proof
Floating stairs can be a safe and stylish option for families with young children, especially when equipped with the right safety features. While concerns about open risers and minimalistic designs are understandable, there are several ways to enhance security and make these staircases family-friendly:
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**1. Install Glass Railings for Maximum Safety**\
Tempered glass railings are a sleek and highly secure solution that completely eliminate gaps, preventing children from slipping through, maintain visibility, and resist impact and shattering.
**2. Choose Wider Treads for Stability**\
Wider treads offer a more secure foothold, reducing the risk of missteps or falls. Standard stair treads are often 10 inches deep, but opting for wider treads (12 inches or more) provides extra room for stability.
**3. Enhance Traction with Grip Strips**\
Available for any FLIGHT treads measuring 36 inches or greater, grip strips are a practical and elegant way to reduce slip risks for children and guests.
**4. Consider a Closed-Riser Alternative**\
For parents who prefer extra security, Viewrail’s FLIGHT Stack is an excellent alternative. This system features a closed-riser design, preventing children from attempting to climb between steps.
**5. Use LED Lighting for Visibility**\
Integrated LED lighting in treads or handrails can improve visibility in low-light conditions by highlighting each stair’s edge, making it easier for children (and adults) to step safely.
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### Related topics
* [What are Floating Stairs](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/what-are-floating-stairs) — Start with the basics of floating stair design and structure.
* [Types of Staircases](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/types-of-staircases) — Compare floating stairs with other common staircase styles.
* [Open Riser Stair vs. Mono Stringer Stairs](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/types-of-staircases/open-riser-vs.-floating-stairs) — Understand two common floating stair configurations.
* [What Railing Should I Choose for My Stairs?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/what-railing-should-i-choose-for-my-stairs) — Explore railing options that affect safety and style.
* [How much do FLIGHT Floating Stairs Cost?](/guides/pricing/how-much-do-flight-floating-stairs-cost) — See how design choices change total project cost.
* [How Do I Install a FLIGHT System?](/guides/install/how-do-i-install-a-flight-system/how-do-i-install-a-flight-mono-system) — Review installation requirements that support long-term safety.
# Types of Staircases
A staircase does more than connect two floors. In most homes, it's one of the first things you notice when you walk in, and it sets the tone for every room around it. Whether you're planning a new build, a remodel, or helping a client spec their project, choosing the right configuration is one of the most consequential design decisions in a home.
This guide covers the most common staircase shapes, the practical tradeoffs of each, and how Viewrail's [FLIGHT floating stair systems](https://www.viewrail.com/floating-stairs/) apply to every configuration.
### Straight Staircases
A straight staircase moves directly from one floor to the next in a single, uninterrupted run with no turns and no landings. It's the most familiar configuration and remains one of the most widely used.
**Advantages:**
* Simple and intuitive to navigate
* Straightforward to design, measure, and install
* Works well in minimalist and modern interiors
* Handrails can often run as one continuous piece
**Considerations:**
* Requires a longer uninterrupted run of floor space than other configurations
* Offers less visual privacy between floors than configurations with a turn
* Staircases taller than 12 feet typically require a landing platform per IRC code
Viewrail's [FLIGHT Mono](https://www.viewrail.com/floating-stairs/mono/) is a natural fit for straight runs. A single exposed steel stringer runs the full length of the staircase, holding each tread in place and giving the system a clean, architectural presence. Pair it with Vedera glass railing for a fully open, light-filled result, or choose cable or rod infill for a warmer, more textured look. Even cleaner? A straight [FLIGHT Cantilever](https://www.viewrail.com/floating-stairs/cantilever/) run with no visible stringer, just elegant wood treads rising from one floor to the next.
### L-Shaped Staircases (90-Degree Turn)
An L-shaped staircase, also called a quarter-turn staircase, follows a straight run and then turns 90 degrees, usually at a landing platform. The landing can be a simple square or rectangular platform, or a series of angled winder steps that make the turn more gradually.
**Advantages:**
* Fits naturally into corners, making efficient use of constrained floor plans
* The turn creates a visual break that adds privacy between floors
* Landing platforms provide natural rest points and can simplify handrail transitions
* More visually dynamic than a straight run
**Considerations:**
* Handrails must be designed and installed in segments, requiring more coordination
* The landing may need its own structural support depending on the system and layout
* Moving large items around the turn can be difficult
[FLIGHT Stack](https://www.viewrail.com/floating-stairs/flight-stack/) is a strong choice for L-shaped layouts. By concealing the structure inside a closed-riser design and eliminating the visible stringer entirely, it creates a bold, sculptural corner that reads as a deliberate design feature rather than a utility element. Where the stair runs along a load-bearing wall, [FLIGHT Cantilever](https://www.viewrail.com/floating-stairs/cantilever/) is worth considering: treads attach directly to the wall with nothing beneath them, keeping the corner completely clear and letting the turn speak for itself.
### Switchback Staircases (180-Degree Turn, Single Landing)
A switchback staircase completes a 180-degree turn using a single large landing platform. One run goes up to the landing, and a second run continues from it in the opposite direction. The landing is typically wide enough to fully accommodate the turn in one platform.
This layout works well in floor plans that are compact front-to-back but have adequate width, and it handles taller floor-to-ceiling heights efficiently.
**Advantages:**
* Space-efficient for taller floor heights
* The large landing provides a generous rest point and simplifies egress planning
* Two parallel runs create a strong, symmetrical visual presence
* A natural focal point in open-concept homes
**Considerations:**
* Requires careful coordination to measure and build correctly
* The landing will likely need its own structural support
* Moving large items between floors remains difficult
[FLIGHT Mono ](https://www.viewrail.com/floating-stairs/mono/)in a switchback layout is one of Viewrail's most architecturally striking configurations. The single steel beam wraps the 180-degree turn and draws the eye up through both runs, making the staircase a genuine centerpiece.
### U-Shaped Staircases (180-Degree Turn, Two Landings)
A U-shaped staircase also makes a 180-degree turn but completes it using two smaller quarter-landings rather than one large platform. The first run rises to the first landing, a short intermediate run connects to the second landing, and the final run continues to the upper floor.
The two-landing approach distributes the turn across more vertical space, which can be useful when the available floor area doesn't support a single wide landing or when the design calls for a more gradual transition between runs.
**Advantages:**
* Handles the 180-degree turn in a tighter horizontal footprint than a single-landing switchback
* Multiple rest points across the climb
* The segmented structure can offer more flexibility in how the turn is positioned within the floor plan
**Considerations:**
* More complex to design and build than a single-landing switchback
* The intermediate run and two landings require careful coordination of structural support
* Moving large items between floors remains difficult
[FLIGHT Stack](https://www.viewrail.com/floating-stairs/flight-stack/) suits U-shaped layouts particularly well. Its closed-riser design gives all three runs a unified, continuous appearance that holds together visually across the two landings.
### Curved Staircases
Curved staircases sweep through an arc without landings or sharp turns. Unlike a spiral, they don't complete a full rotation: they bend gradually from one direction to another over the course of the run. Their graceful form makes them a natural choice for entryways and foyers where the staircase functions as the visual anchor of the space.
**Advantages:**
* Conveys elegance and high-end design intent
* The gradual arc is comfortable and easy to navigate
* Creates a dramatic first impression in entry and great room applications
**Considerations:**
* Among the most complex configurations to engineer and build
* The sweeping form requires generous, open floor space
* Best suited for grand interiors rather than compact or compartmentalized plans
If a [curved staircase](https://www.viewrail.com/custom-stairs-and-railing/) is part of a project, reach out to the Viewrail design team early. They can help determine whether the space and scope align with this configuration before design work goes too far.
### Spiral Staircases
Spiral staircases rotate around a central point and complete a full 360-degree turn (or more) from bottom landing to top. Traditional spiral stairs relied on a central pole for all structural support, with narrow wedge-shaped treads fanning outward from the center.
Viewrail's [FLIGHT Spiral](https://www.viewrail.com/floating-stairs/flight-spiral/) is a modern rethinking of that form. Instead of the narrow, difficult-to-navigate treads typical of older spiral kits, FLIGHT Spiral uses helical treads on a rigid engineered frame to create a wide, predictable walking surface. Optional integrated LED lighting in the treads adds a high-end finishing detail.
**Advantages:**
* The most compact footprint of any configuration, with typical diameters of 5 to 10 feet
* A strong sculptural presence that functions as a design feature
* Can be engineered and permitted as a primary stair where code allows, or used as secondary access to a loft, library, or roof deck
* Available for both interior and exterior installations
**Considerations:**
* Can only be traversed in one direction at a time
* Moving large items between floors is not practical
* IRC and local codes have specific requirements for spiral stairs regarding tread dimensions, headroom, and egress; these should be confirmed early in the design process
* Generally not the right choice for high-traffic primary circulation in larger households
### Modern Floating Staircases
Floating stairs are defined structurally by what isn't there. Rather than a closed box or traditional stringer-on-both-sides construction, a floating staircase uses an engineered support system that leaves the treads appearing to be suspended in space. The effect is open, light, and architecturally distinctive.
Viewrail's FLIGHT line includes four systems, each with a different structural logic and visual result.
#### FLIGHT Mono
The original FLIGHT system and Viewrail's most popular, FLIGHT Mono uses a single exposed steel beam (the mono stringer) running the full length of the staircase. Treads attach to this beam, concentrating all structure in one place and leaving the space above and below the stairs completely open.
FLIGHT Mono works in straight, 90-degree, switchback, and U-turn configurations. It offers broad customization in tread species, metal finish, and railing pairing.
#### FLIGHT Stack
Rather than an exposed stringer, FLIGHT Stack conceals its structure inside a closed-riser design. Each tread appears to grow from a clean, solid form with no visible beam, bracket, or gap between treads. The result reads more like a custom furniture piece than a conventional staircase.
FLIGHT Stack is particularly well-suited for entries and open-concept living areas where the staircase is intended to be the visual anchor of the space.
#### FLIGHT Cantilever
FLIGHT Cantilever treads attach directly to a structural wall, with no stringer visible beneath them. One end of each tread is mounted securely to the wall while the other end floats free.
The result is the most structurally minimal floating stair available: just the treads and railing, nothing else. It requires a wall capable of supporting the cantilevered load, and building code compliance should be confirmed early.
#### FLIGHT Spiral
FLIGHT Spiral brings FLIGHT-quality engineering and materials to a spiral configuration. Helical wood treads, available in multiple species and finishes, ride a rigid structural frame sized to the project's diameter and rotation requirements. Rod infill railing curves naturally around the system's radius for a cohesive, continuous look that standard cable or straight-post systems can't replicate.
### Railing Options
The staircase structure is only part of the system. Viewrail offers cable, rod, and glass railing options that pair with FLIGHT stairs. The right choice depends on the design intent, how much hardware the project can tolerate visually, and whether the railing needs to work on stairs, landings, balconies, or all three.
#### Glass Railing
Viewrail's glass railing lineup spans several systems, organized here from least to most visible hardware.
[**Vedera**](https://www.viewrail.com/glass-railing/vedera) is the only glass system engineered exclusively for FLIGHT stairs. It integrates through concealed tread hardware with no visible posts, delivering the most seamless stair-specific glass option in the lineup. Because it's a structural component of the stair assembly itself rather than a standalone railing, it isn't available for landings or balconies on its own. For those areas, it can be paired with other Viewrail glass systems to maintain a consistent glass and handrail finish across the full installation.
[**Hidden Side Mount**](https://www.viewrail.com/glass-railing/hidden-side-mount/) mounts partially under the floor edge and behind the fascia, leaving virtually nothing visible except the glass. It's one of Viewrail's most robustly tested frameless systems and is well-suited to loft edges, overlooks, and decks where maximizing the floor surface and minimizing hardware are both priorities.
[**Base Rail** ](https://www.viewrail.com/glass-railing/base-rail/)captures glass panels in a continuous aluminum U-channel anchored to the floor or stringer. The channel is the only hardware visible at the base; no posts, no spigots. A standard surface-mount version and a recessed version are available, with the recessed option sitting flush with the finished floor for an even cleaner result.
[**Standoff Pins**](https://www.viewrail.com/glass-railing/standoff-pins/) mount directly to the side of a structural surface and grip the glass panel from the face rather than the edge or bottom. All hardware sits at the side of the installation, keeping the floor clear and the glass plane uninterrupted. A practical choice for side-mount conditions on stairs and landings.
[**Talon Spigots**](https://www.viewrail.com/glass-railing/talon-spigots/) **and** [**Ascend Talons**](https://www.viewrail.com/glass-railing/ascend-talons/) are base-mount spigot systems where individual hardware points grip each panel from below. Spigots are more visible than base rail or hidden side mount, but they create the impression of glass floating above the surface. Ascend Talons are specifically designed for stair rake angles. Both systems are straightforward to install and adapt well to a range of substrate conditions.
[**Glass Posts** ](https://www.viewrail.com/glass-railing/posts/)are the most traditional approach: metal posts with stainless steel clips secure the glass panels between them. Posts offer the broadest finish selection, work on stairs, landings, decks, and balconies, and are generally the most cost-effective glass option. ICC-certified when installed per instructions.
#### Cable and Rod Railing
[**Signature Cable Railing**](https://www.viewrail.com/cable-railing/signature-cable-railing/) runs stainless steel cables horizontally between posts for a contemporary look that works in both modern and transitional interiors. Onyx and rod infill options offer the same clean horizontal lines with rigid rods rather than cable, eliminating the tension maintenance and potential sag associated with cable over time.
[**Express Cable Railing**](https://www.viewrail.com/cable-railing/express/) is a premium DIY option suited to projects where the client or contractor will handle installation directly.
### Choosing the Right Configuration
A few key factors tend to drive the configuration decision on most projects:
**Available floor area and plan geometry.** Straight stairs require the longest uninterrupted run. L-shaped and switchback configurations trade depth for width and fit more naturally into corner conditions. Spiral stairs require the smallest footprint by a significant margin.
**Traffic volume and primary vs. secondary use.** For a primary stair in an active household, straight, L-shaped, and switchback configurations offer the best combination of capacity and navigability. Spiral stairs are better suited to secondary access, lower-traffic applications, or smaller households.
**The staircase's role in the space.** A staircase tucked into a hallway calls for efficiency. One that anchors a great room, entry, or multi-story open plan is an architectural element in its own right. FLIGHT Stack, FLIGHT Cantilever, and FLIGHT Mono with Vedera glass are consistently strong choices when the stair needs to perform as a focal point.
**Code jurisdiction and structural conditions.** Spiral stairs, cantilever designs, and floating stairs in general carry code considerations that vary by jurisdiction and depend on structural conditions. IRC Chapter 3 governs stairway requirements at the federal reference level, but local amendments are common. Viewrail's design team can assist with code planning and can provide documentation to support permit submissions.
### Working with Viewrail
Every FLIGHT staircase is custom-built to the project's specific dimensions, configuration, and finish selections. Viewrail's design team works with homeowners, builders, and designers from initial measurements through final installation. Certified installers are available for projects where a professional install is preferred or required.
To start a project or get custom pricing, [submit a quote request](https://www.viewrail.com/quote/) at viewrail.com.
### Related topics
* [What are Floating Stairs](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/what-are-floating-stairs) — Start with the core concepts behind floating stair design.
* [Are Floating Stairs Safe?](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/are-floating-stairs-safe) — Review safety basics and code considerations.
* [Open Riser vs. Floating Stairs](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/types-of-staircases/open-riser-vs.-floating-stairs) — Compare visual style with structural support.
* [Prefab and Mechanical Stair Differences](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/types-of-staircases/prefab-metal-stairs-welded-vs.-mechanical-systems) — Understand how different stair systems are built.
* [What Railing Should I Choose for My Stairs?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/what-railing-should-i-choose-for-my-stairs) — Match the stair layout with the right railing style.
* [How much do FLIGHT Floating Stairs Cost?](/guides/pricing/how-much-do-flight-floating-stairs-cost) — Estimate budget by configuration and system type.
# Open Riser vs. Floating Stairs
If you've been exploring modern home design, you've probably come across the term "open riser staircase" — and maybe "floating stairs" in the same breath. While these two terms are often used interchangeably, they actually mean different things. Understanding the distinction is a good starting point before diving into whether this style of staircase is right for your home.
### Open Riser vs. Floating Stairs: What's the Difference?
An **open riser staircase** is defined by what it's missing: the vertical panel (called a riser) that traditionally fills the gap between each step. Remove the riser, and you're left with open space between the treads, giving the staircase a light, airy appearance.
**Floating stairs**, on the other hand, refer to how a staircase is structurally supported. A floating staircase uses a concealed support system, often a steel stringer running beneath the steps, so the underside appears clean and uncluttered. Floating stairs can have either open or closed risers.
In practice, many modern staircases are both: open riser *and* floating. But it's worth knowing they describe two different qualities — one visual, one structural.
FLIGHT Mono: An open-riser, floating staircase.
#### Common Configurations
Open riser staircases come in [several layouts](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/types-of-staircases) to suit different spaces and home styles:
**Straight stairs** run in a single, uninterrupted line from one floor to the next. They're the most minimalist option and work especially well in open-concept homes where the staircase itself becomes a design feature.
**L-shaped (90°) stairs** make a single turn, typically at a landing platform. This configuration is a practical choice for tighter spaces, since it allows the staircase to change direction rather than requiring a long, straight run.
**Switchback stairs** make a full 180° turn at a landing, essentially doubling back on themselves. These are ideal when vertical space is limited and a straight or L-shaped run simply won't fit.
### How Are Open Riser Stairs Supported?
The most common support method for open riser staircases is a **stringer,** a structural beam that carries the weight of the steps. Modern open riser designs typically use one of two approaches:
* A **mono stringer**, which is a single steel beam running beneath the center of the treads
* A **double stringer**, which uses two beams, one on each side
Some open riser staircases, particularly cantilevered designs, skip the stringer entirely and are anchored directly into the wall, giving an even more dramatic floating effect.
### The Appeal of Open Riser Stairs
The most obvious draw is aesthetic. Open riser staircases feel lighter and less imposing than traditional closed-riser stairs, and they allow natural light to pass through rather than blocking it. In smaller rooms, this can make a meaningful difference in how spacious the space feels.
A U-Turn FLIGHT Mono allows lots of light into a home.
Beyond looks, they're also versatile. Open riser stairs can be configured in a range of layouts and customized with different tread materials and thicknesses — typically ranging from 1½" to 4" — to match the overall design of the home. Outdoor applications are possible too, with weather-resistant tread options available for exterior staircases.
From an installation standpoint, open riser staircases with steel mono stringers are generally straightforward to put together, making them a viable project for experienced DIYers as well as professional contractors.
### A Note on Safety
One question that often comes up is [whether floating stairs are as safe](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/are-floating-stairs-safe) as traditional staircases. The short answer is yes — as long as the staircase is built to meet your local building codes and relevant international standards. Code requirements typically address things like tread depth, riser opening limits, and railing height, all of which are designed to ensure safe use. A properly built open riser staircase is no less safe than a conventional one, it simply looks different.
### Related topics
#### Learn the basics
* [What are Floating Stairs](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/what-are-floating-stairs) — Understand the core structure behind floating stair designs.
* [Types of Staircases](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/types-of-staircases) — Compare straight, L-shaped, switchback, curved, and spiral layouts.
* [Are Floating Stairs Safe?](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/are-floating-stairs-safe) — Review code, riser gaps, and child-safe options.
#### Plan your project
* [How Can I Customize My FLIGHT Staircase?](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-flight-staircase) — Explore stair styles, tread finishes, railing, and lighting options.
* [What Railing Should I Choose for My Stairs?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/what-railing-should-i-choose-for-my-stairs) — Match your stair style with the right railing system.
* [How much do FLIGHT Floating Stairs Cost?](/guides/pricing/how-much-do-flight-floating-stairs-cost) — See how layout, materials, and options affect price.
# Prefab Metal Stairs: Welded vs. Mechanical Systems
Learn the difference between welded and mechanical prefab metal stairs — how they're built, how they ship, and how to choose the right system for your project.
If you're shopping for a metal staircase, you'll quickly run into two main options: welded and mechanical (also called bolted) systems. Both are prefabricated — meaning they're manufactured off-site and arrive ready to assemble — but they're built differently and suit different situations.
Here's what you need to know to choose the right one.
### What Is a Prefabricated Metal Staircase?
A prefabricated metal staircase is manufactured in sections and shipped to your home or job site ready to put together. You receive all the components, including stringer, treads, brackets, and hardware, in clearly labeled packages. Because the heavy fabrication work is done before it arrives, assembly is significantly faster than building a staircase from scratch on-site.
The structural backbone of these systems is one or more metal stringers: the long diagonal member that supports the treads. Depending on the system you choose, everything attaches to that stringer either through welding or mechanical fasteners.
A prefabricated metal staircase (FLIGHT Mono) by Viewrail
### The Two Types of Prefab Metal Stairs
#### Welded Stair Systems
In a welded system, critical connection points are fused together during manufacturing. These typically include:
* Tread brackets (or tread pans) to the stringer(s)
* Header plates to the stringer
* Footer plates to the stringer
* Railing connections to the tread or stringer
Because the joints are made at the factory, the unit arrives fully prefabricated and professionally welded. The tradeoff is that it ships as a larger, heavier unit — which can be a consideration depending on your site access.
A welded stair system (Not by Viewrail)
#### Mechanical (Bolted) Stair Systems
Mechanical stairs use bolts, screws, and precision-engineered hardware to connect the components. The stringer ships separately from the treads and brackets, which reduces the risk of shipping damage and makes the pieces easier to maneuver into tight or finished spaces.
On-site, you bolt everything together without any welding equipment or specialized fabrication skills. The result is a clean, modern finish with a straightforward installation process.
A mechanical FLIGHT Mono system by Viewrail
### How Do They Compare?
| | Welded | Mechanical |
| ----------------------- | ---------------------------------------------- | ------------------------------------------ |
| Finish | Seamless, no exposed hardware | Clean, modern finish |
| Shipping | Ships as a fully prefabricated unit | Stringer and components ship separately |
| On-site assembly | Minimal, arrives fully assembled | Bolted together on-site, no welding needed |
| Special skills required | May need certified welder for any on-site work | No welding needed |
| Code compliance | Both meet applicable building codes | Both meet applicable building codes |
Both systems include the same core components (stringer, header plate, footer plate, and tread brackets), and both must meet the 4-inch sphere rule for baluster spacing and specified load requirements.
#### A Note on Customization
It's a common assumption that welded stairs offer more design flexibility than bolted ones. But in practice, customization depends far more on the manufacturer than the connection method. Many standard welded prefab systems ship in fixed configurations with limited options. At the same time, well-engineered mechanical systems can be highly configurable, using modular components to accommodate a wide range of layouts, angles, and design requirements.
When comparing systems, look closely at what a specific manufacturer actually offers — don't assume one connection method automatically means more (or fewer) choices.
### Building Code Requirements
Every metal staircase must comply with the building code that applies to its use and occupancy type. In the United States, three codes are most relevant:
* **IRC (International Residential Code):** Applies to private residential dwellings. The IRC establishes minimum requirements for stair width, headroom, and riser and tread dimensions to ensure safety. This is the code most homeowners will work under.
* **IBC (International Building Code):** The IBC applies to all stairways except those under industrial or residential occupancy classifications, meaning it covers general-use commercial buildings. It is updated every three years by the International Code Council.
* **OSHA:** OSHA regulates stairways in working environments or areas inaccessible to the public, such as factories and warehouses.
IBC standards are generally more stringent than OSHA requirements, which means compliance tends to cost more, but it also provides a higher level of safety and may be required if your space ever becomes accessible to the public.
Your local building department will tell you which code applies to your project. When in doubt, it's worth confirming before you finalize your design, especially for mixed-use or commercial spaces.
For a state-by-state reference, see this [building codes by state resource](https://www.buildingsguide.com/blog/resources-building-codes-state/).
### How Viewrail's Mechanical Stair Systemss Work
Every FLIGHT system is built around the same core mechanical engineering, regardless of which system you choose.
**The Stringer** The stringer is the steel backbone. Depending on the system, it's either exposed as a design element (Mono, Mono Select), hidden inside the wall (Cantilever), or concealed within the staircase structure itself (Stack).
**Header and Footer Plates** The header plate connects the top of the stringer to the upper floor framing. The footer plate anchors the bottom to the floor. Each plate is secured with six bolts, engineered to exceed five times the recommended load requirement.
**Tread Brackets** Tread brackets attach to the stringer and support each tread. In Mono, they're visible. In Mono Select, they're hidden. In Cantilever and Stack, the structural approach is different — but the principle of precision bolted connections throughout is the same.
**Hardware** Every connection uses Grade 8 bolts — among the highest-strength fasteners for standard structural applications. Each bolt receives a thread-locking adhesive during production to prevent loosening, resist corrosion, and keep connections tight over time.
**Flow Drilling** Rather than welding components together, Viewrail uses flow drilling to create clean threaded connection points in the steel tubing. This eliminates the heat distortion and visible scarring that welding can leave on finished metalwork, and allows the stringer and brackets to ship separately — making delivery and installation significantly more manageable.
A Viewrail FLIGHT Mono system with Vedera glass railing.
### Which System Is Right for You?
Both welded and mechanical prefab stairs are proven, code-compliant options. Here's a quick way to think through the decision:
* **Choose a welded system** if you want a fully prefabricated unit with minimal on-site assembly and you have easy site access for a larger delivery.
* **Choose a mechanical system** if you're working in a finished home, need components to ship separately, or want to avoid any on-site welding.
Whichever direction you go, evaluate the specific manufacturer's configuration options — and confirm with your local building department which code governs your project before finalizing your design.
### Related topics
* [Types of Staircases](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/types-of-staircases) — Compare this system type with other common stair layouts.
* [What are Floating Stairs](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/what-are-floating-stairs) — Understand how mono stringer and other floating stair systems are supported.
* [How Can I Customize My FLIGHT Staircase?](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-flight-staircase) — Explore finish, railing, and configuration options for a mechanical stair system.
* [How Do I Install a FLIGHT System?](/guides/install/how-do-i-install-a-flight-system/how-do-i-install-a-flight-mono-system) — Review blocking, subfloor, and install planning before assembly.
* [How much do FLIGHT Floating Stairs Cost?](/guides/pricing/how-much-do-flight-floating-stairs-cost) — Estimate how system type and configuration affect budget.
# What is Cable Railing?
Learn what cable railing is, how a cable railing system works, what cable railing costs, and where to use it on decks, stairs, balconies, and other modern spaces.
[Cable railing](https://www.viewrail.com/cable-railing/) is a popular modern railing system that runs tensioned stainless steel cables horizontally between posts. It keeps your views open, works in both interior and exterior settings, and delivers the clean, contemporary look that's increasingly common on decks, stairs, balconies, and lofts.
If you are comparing systems, see [What is Glass Railing?](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/what-is-glass-railing), [Should I Buy Cable Or Rod Railing?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/cable-railing-vs.-rod-railing-which-one-is-right-for-your-project), and [How Can I Customize my Cable Railing?](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing).
### Why homeowners choose cable railing
When choosing a modern railing system, cable railing is an easy choice for a number of reasons:
**Unobstructed views.** The slim cable profile is nearly invisible compared to wood balusters or iron, making it a favorite for properties with mountain, water, or yard views.
**Versatility.** Cable railing works indoors and outdoors, on decks, stairs, balconies, and interior lofts. Multiple post types, mounting styles, and finishes make it adaptable to most projects.
**DIY-friendly.** With pre-cut, pre-drilled posts and clear installation guides, cable railing is manageable for motivated DIYers. At Viewrail, we offer step-by-step instructions and [video installation guides](https://www.youtube.com/@Viewrail) to support you through the process.
**Long-term value.** A well-installed cable railing system adds curb appeal and home value. It outperforms traditional wood railing in durability and requires significantly less upkeep over time.
**Design flexibility.** Cable comes on a spool, which gives you a lot of flexibility for custom run lengths and complex layouts.
#### Trade-offs to know
**Installation takes time.** Tensioning individual cable runs is repetitive and can be time-consuming, especially on larger projects.
**Local code restrictions.** Some municipalities prohibit horizontal railing infill. Always check with your local building department before purchasing.
**Higher upfront cost than wood.** Cable railing sits in the "modern railing" tier, which costs more initially than traditional wood or iron baluster systems.
### Types of cable railing systems
#### Swaged vs. swageless fittings
The two main ways to attach cable to its fittings are swaged and swageless systems.
**Swaged systems** are the most common. Swaging means using force to compress a metal fitting directly onto the cable, creating a permanent, high-strength connection. Viewrail uses handheld cable crimpers for this process, driving stainless steel fittings tightly onto the cable ends.
**Swageless systems** use proprietary fittings with a mechanical locking mechanism. The cable is inserted and locked in place without compression. These fittings are typically visible on the outside of the post.
#### Metal posts vs. wood posts
**Metal posts** are the most popular choice today. They offer a sleek, modern profile, require minimal maintenance, and can be smaller than wood posts while meeting or exceeding strength requirements. Viewrail offers both aluminum and 304 stainless steel metal posts.
**Wood posts** are a good option when you want cable railing's look but with a warmer, more traditional feel. Wood post systems are often more budget-friendly, but exterior wood posts will need annual maintenance. Code typically requires a minimum 4×4 post for structural integrity. Viewrail's [**DriveTite**](https://www.viewrail.com/cable-railing/drivetite/) system is designed specifically to tension cable into wood posts. If you are planning a wood-post project, use [How do I Install DriveTite Cable Railing?](/guides/install/how-do-i-install-a-cable-or-rod-railing-system/how-do-i-install-drivetite-cable-railing). If you are deciding between post materials, see [Wood vs Metal Railing Posts: Which Is Better for Cable Railing?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/wood-vs-metal-railing-posts-which-is-better-for-cable-railing).
### How much does cable railing cost?
A complete cable railing system, including posts, handrails, cable, and hardware, typically ranges from $80 to $270 per linear foot. The wide range reflects real differences in post material, infill type, mounting style, and project complexity.
Here's a general breakdown by material:
* **Wood posts with cable infill** — The most budget-friendly option. Using a product like DriveTite (without purchasing new posts) can bring infill costs down significantly.
* **Aluminum posts** — Aluminum cable railing systems run approximately $150–$240 per linear foot, which is about 30% less than stainless steel.
* **Stainless steel posts** — Premium option with the highest durability. Expect to pay toward the top of the range.
Cable and rod railing are both more affordable than [glass railing](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/what-is-glass-railing), which averages $230–$400 per linear foot. That said, cable railing isn't a budget system, it's a high-performing investment that tends to outperform traditional railing over its lifetime.
For a deeper pricing breakdown, see [How much does Viewrail Cable Railing Cost?](/guides/pricing/how-much-does-viewrail-cable-railing-cost). For a project-specific quote, use the [Viewrail Railing Design Tool](https://design.viewrail.com/external/-/editor?_gl=1*163bwtv*_gcl_au*MjAxNjM5MDY5Ni4xNzc0ODc3OTAz) or [request a quote](https://www.viewrail.com/quote/) directly.
#### Indoor vs. outdoor system considerations
Post and handrail material matters differently depending on where your railing will live.
**Aluminum** is lighter, easier to work with, and more affordable. Viewrail's premium powder coat carries a 5-year finish warranty covering fading, adhesion, and corrosion from finish failure. One important caveat: the [Express](https://www.viewrail.com/cable-railing/express/) aluminum system should not be used within 10 miles of a saltwater coast.
**304 stainless steel** offers excellent strength and a high-end brushed finish. It's a great choice for most exterior projects, though cable infill, because of the braided texture of the wire, can trap moisture in its grooves over time.
**For coastal or harsh-environment projects**, We recommend upgrading to **rod infill**. Rod infill is a great alternative to cable wire — similar in profile and aesthetic, but made from 2205 duplex stainless steel with a smooth, groove-free surface that eliminates the corrosion points cable wire can develop. The smooth surface also means no re-tensioning over time.
### Cable railing system components
A cable railing system is built from four core components:
* **End posts (termination posts)** — These anchor the ends of each cable run. Tensioners and receivers are installed into end posts, which hold the infill taut.
* **Line posts** — These intermediate posts support the cables as they pass through, but don't create tension. The cable threads through them continuously.
* **Top rail** — The handrail that runs along the top of the posts. It's secured into the posts for stability and provides the graspable surface required by code on stairs.
* **Infill** — The horizontal material that spans between posts. In a cable railing system, the infill is stainless steel wire cable, typically 5/32" in diameter.
You may also encounter **intermediate posts** on longer runs. If two posts are spaced farther than 4 feet apart, an intermediate post can be added between them to limit cable deflection.
### Cable Railing Hardware and Fittings
Every cable railing kit includes three types of hardware:
1. **Tensioners** — Installed at one or both ends of a cable run. These are tightened to pull the cable taut and keep the system firm.
2. **Cable holders (line post fittings)** — Locked onto the cable at intermediate posts. They hold the cable in place without creating tension.
3. **Aesthetic hardware** — Typically washers or covers that conceal the point where cable enters or exits a post. These clean up the look while also protecting the post material from direct cable contact.
### Where can you install cable railing?
The most common applications are deck railing, stair railing, and balconies, but cable railing works in a wide variety of spaces — interior loft railings, mezzanine guards, and exterior walkways are all fair game.
The main constraint is local code. Some jurisdictions don't permit horizontal infill systems. Always confirm with your local building department before you purchase.
For specific mounting configurations and post types, see [What Cable Railing Post Mounting Styles Are There?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/cable-railing-post-mounting-styles-compared). For installation guidance, see [How Do I Install a Cable Railing System?](/guides/install/how-do-i-install-a-cable-or-rod-railing-system). If you are keeping wood posts, use [How do I Install DriveTite Cable Railing?](/guides/install/how-do-i-install-a-cable-or-rod-railing-system/how-do-i-install-drivetite-cable-railing).
#### Can cable railing curve?
Yes, but it works differently than you might expect. Cable is linear, so it won't bend into a smooth arc — instead, it angles from post to post, creating the visual impression of a curve. The more posts you add, the more gradual (and convincing) that curve looks.
If you want a true curve with fewer posts, Viewrail's [**Onyx**](https://www.viewrail.com/cable-railing/rod-railing/) or [**rod infill**](https://www.viewrail.com/cable-railing/endurance-rod/) can be physically bent to follow a radius, giving you a smoother curved railing with less visual interruption.
### How to buy cable railing
#### Step 1: Gather your measurements
For a level deck, measure the total "outside to outside" distance of each railing run. That's really all you need to get started.
For stairs, you'll need the **rise** and **run** of your steps:
* **Rise** = the vertical distance from the top of one tread to the top of the next.
* **Run** = the horizontal depth of each tread, minus any nosing overhang (this is your "net run").
These measurements allow Viewrail to provide the correct angle tension kits and ensure the cable doesn't contact your stair nosing.
#### Step 2: Plan your post spacing
Keep post spacing at or under 4 feet (face to face) for both level and stair runs. This keeps your system structurally sound and code-compliant. On stairs, measure that 4-foot maximum along the diagonal face of the post, not horizontally.
When ordering cable and handrail for stairs, measure the full diagonal length of the run and add about a foot. A little extra is far better than coming up short.
#### Step 3: Choose your post type and mounting style
Once you have measurements and a sense of the layout, decide on your post material and mounting configuration. Viewrail offers multiple post mounting options for our [Signature system](https://www.viewrail.com/cable-railing/signature-cable-railing/), each suited to different structural conditions and aesthetic preferences. [Express](https://www.viewrail.com/cable-railing/express/) is available in both surface and side mount options. See [Cable Post Mounting Styles](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/cable-railing-post-mounting-styles-compared) for a full breakdown.
Also consider railing height. Code requirements for stair handrails are 34"–38". For level deck guards, the IRC residential minimum is 36", though many jurisdictions and commercial projects require 42". Viewrail manufactures systems at 36" as a standard, with options up to 42". Always verify your local requirements before finalizing.
#### Step 4: Select your finish
Viewrail offers both aluminum and 304 stainless steel posts. All metal products carry a **10-year structural warranty**. For finish:
* **2205 brushed stainless steel** — 5-year finish warranty. Requires regular application of Marine 31 Polish and Sealant to maintain coverage.
* **Superior Performance Powder Coat** — 5-year finish warranty covering fading, adhesion, and corrosion from finish failure.
* **Standard Powder Coat** — 1-year finish warranty covering normal use.
If your project is in a coastal environment or extreme climate, Viewrail recommends upgrading to the rod infill system rather than cable.
#### Step 5: Choose your cable kits
For our Signature system, there are three main kit types matched to how and where the cable is tensioned:
* **Angle Tension Kits** — Used on stair runs, where the cable travels at an angle.
* **Level Tension Kits** — Used on level runs, such as decks and balconies.
* **Inside Post Mount Kits** — Used where the cable hardware mounts to the inside face of the post rather than threading through it.
There are also two intermediate hardware kits (adhesive sleeve kits and steel insert sleeve kits) for posts added between standard spacing to control cable deflection on longer runs.
Kit quantities are determined by system height:
* 36" system: 10 packs
* 39" system: 11 packs
* 42" system: 12 packs
For level railing, just provide your outside-to-outside measurements and Viewrail will handle the rest. Cable and handrail are cut slightly long to ensure a perfect fit.
### How to Maintain Cable Railing
Cable railing is low maintenance, but a little routine care keeps it looking sharp, especially outdoors.
**Cleaning:** If you notice buildup on posts or cables, wipe it down with a stainless steel cleaner and a cloth. For tougher spots, a Scotch-Brite pad works well.
**Surface rust:** A small amount of surface rust can appear on exterior stainless steel over time. This is a surface condition, not structural corrosion. A stainless steel cleaner will typically remove it. If needed, follow up with a Scotch-Brite pad for stubborn spots.
**Protective treatment:** For exterior installations, Viewrail recommends applying Marine 31 Polish and Sealant to exposed stainless steel, particularly to cable wire, which has more texture and surface area than rod infill. Regular use of Marine 31 is also required to maintain your stainless steel finish warranty.
**Re-tensioning:** Cable can stretch slightly after installation. Check your runs periodically and re-tighten any that have gone slack. Rod infill doesn't have the same issue, once it's set, it stays put.
**Wood post care:** If your system uses wood posts outdoors, plan to inspect and treat them annually to prevent weathering and decay.
For more detail, see [How Do I Maintain Cable Railing?](/guides/maintenance/how-do-i-maintain-cable-railing).
### Frequently Asked Questions
Is cable railing more expensive than wood?
Generally, yes. Cable railing has a higher upfront cost than traditional wood or iron baluster systems. However, cable railing is more durable, requires less maintenance, and holds up better over time — factors that can offset the initial investment for many homeowners.
Do cable railing posts need to be closer together than wood?
Yes. Cable can sag or deflect over longer spans, so post spacing is kept tighter than a typical wood baluster system. Plan for posts at 4 feet on center as a baseline. The exact spacing you need depends on cable diameter, run length, and railing height — all of which factor into both performance and code compliance.
What size is cable railing wire?
Viewrail uses 5/32" diameter stainless steel wire rope as its standard cable size.
### Related topics
#### Compare systems
* [What is Glass Railing?](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/what-is-glass-railing) — Compare visibility, maintenance, and cost.
* [Should I Buy Cable Or Rod Railing?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/cable-railing-vs.-rod-railing-which-one-is-right-for-your-project) — Choose the right infill for your layout and environment.
* [Wood vs Metal Railing Posts: Which Is Better for Cable Railing?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/wood-vs-metal-railing-posts-which-is-better-for-cable-railing) — Compare durability, upkeep, and style.
#### Plan your project
* [How much does Viewrail Cable Railing Cost?](/guides/pricing/how-much-does-viewrail-cable-railing-cost) — Review price ranges by material and layout.
* [What Cable Railing Post Mounting Styles Are There?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/cable-railing-post-mounting-styles-compared) — Match your structure to the right mount.
* [How Can I Customize my Cable Railing?](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing) — Explore finishes, handrails, and post options.
#### Install and maintain
* [How Do I Install a Cable Railing System?](/guides/install/how-do-i-install-a-cable-or-rod-railing-system) — See the install sequence and required prep.
* [How do I Install DriveTite Cable Railing?](/guides/install/how-do-i-install-a-cable-or-rod-railing-system/how-do-i-install-drivetite-cable-railing) — Follow the dedicated wood-post cable install guide.
* [Can I Install Cable Railing Myself?](broken://spaces/YiIQ32eyDEEMOXuUTd8u/pages/hfzS4NElJ6PyabWq4Kxt) — Decide whether DIY fits your project.
* [How Do I Maintain Cable Railing?](/guides/maintenance/how-do-i-maintain-cable-railing) — Learn cleaning, re-tensioning, and exterior care.
# What is Glass Railing?
Tempered or laminated glass panels create a clear, low-maintenance safety barrier for stairs, decks, and balconies. Learn how it works, what it costs, and which system fits your project.
Glass railing is a safety barrier system that uses tempered or laminated glass panels in place of traditional balusters, spindles, or cable infill. Installed along staircases, balconies, decks, and elevated edges, it prevents falls while preserving unobstructed views and allowing natural light to move freely through a space.
Available in several system configurations, from fully frameless to post-supported, and engineered to meet residential and commercial code requirements, glass railing has become a defining feature of modern architecture. The right system depends on the application, the structural requirements, and what you want the finished project to look like.
Viewrail Talons
### How Glass Railing Works
Traditional railing fills the space between a top and bottom rail with vertical balusters or horizontal cables. Glass railing takes a different approach entirely: a solid panel becomes the barrier itself. That fundamental difference gives glass railing its defining visual character — a continuous, transparent surface that doesn't interrupt sightlines or divide space.
Every glass railing system has two essential elements: the glass panel and the hardware that supports it. The glass panel is load-bearing, functioning as both the infill and the structural barrier. The hardware, whether a base rail channel, floor-mounted spigots, standoff pins, or vertical posts, anchors the panel to the structure and defines how the system looks.
Because the glass is load-bearing, it must be fabricated from safety-rated glass (tempered or laminated) and sized and anchored to satisfy building code requirements for guards and handrails.
### Types of Glass Railing Systems
How a glass panel is supported determines everything else: the structural performance, the visual effect, and how the installation goes. Here's how the main system types compare.
#### Frameless Glass Railing
Frameless systems secure panels at the base only through a continuous base rail channel (such as Viewrail's [Base Rail ](https://www.viewrail.com/glass-railing/base-rail/)or [Hidden Side Mount](https://www.viewrail.com/glass-railing/hidden-side-mount/) systems), floor-mounted spigots, or standoff pins, with no framing around the edges of the glass. The result is a railing where the glass appears to float, with maximum visual openness and the least possible hardware in view.
Because frameless systems rely on the glass itself for lateral rigidity, they require thicker panels, typically 3/8" to 1/2" tempered or laminated, to meet structural load requirements. This is the most popular configuration for modern residential interiors, particularly for staircases and open loft or mezzanine edges where preserving views is the primary design goal.
#### Semi-Frameless Glass Railing
Semi-frameless systems, such as Viewrail's [Glass Posts system](https://www.viewrail.com/glass-railing/posts/), use intermittent posts, typically stainless steel or aluminum, placed between glass panels rather than a continuous surrounding frame. The posts carry structural loads at intervals while leaving the glass between them unobstructed.
This approach provides more structural support than a fully frameless system at a lower material cost, since the posts allow for somewhat thinner glass. It's a practical middle ground for projects that want an open look without the premium of a fully frameless system.
Viewrail Glass Posts
#### Framed Glass Railing
Framed systems enclose each panel within a continuous metal frame — typically aluminum or steel — that runs along all four edges of the glass. Because the frame carries the structural load, the glass itself doesn't need to be as thick.
The tradeoff is visual. Framed systems have a more pronounced hardware presence and a more traditional appearance. They're a cost-effective choice when budget is a primary constraint or when the architectural context suits a more visible frame.
#### Spigot and Standoff Systems
Spigot and standoff systems are a variation of frameless railing in which individual panels are secured by point-fixed hardware — either floor-mounted spigots or wall-mounted standoff pins — rather than a continuous base channel. Each panel is held independently, creating a distinctly floating appearance with a minimal hardware footprint.
Viewrail offers two spigot systems designed specifically for this application:
* [**Talon Spigots**](https://www.viewrail.com/glass-railing/talon-spigots/) are floor-mounted, available in surface mount and side mount configurations, and engineered for level runs on decks, balconies, and interior applications. They use marine-grade 2205 duplex stainless steel and a tilt-lock mechanism that makes panel alignment during installation more forgiving.
* [**Ascend Talons**](https://www.viewrail.com/glass-railing/ascend-talons/) build on the same design but are purpose-built to handle angled stair flights. They're taller and stronger than standard Talons and can be paired with Talon Spigots on landings for a cohesive look throughout a project.
Viewrail also offers [**Standoff Pins**](https://www.viewrail.com/glass-railing/standoff-pins/), which mount to the side of a structure and pass through pre-drilled holes in the glass, keeping the floor surface completely clear of hardware.
Viewrail Standoff Pins on a FLIGHT Mono System
#### Vedera (Integrated Stair Railing)
For projects using Viewrail's FLIGHT floating stair systems, [**Vedera**](https://www.viewrail.com/glass-railing/vedera) offers a tightly integrated glass railing option. Hardware mounts directly into the stair treads and is covered with matching tread "end slices," so no hardware is visible from the side. The result is a clean line of sight through the stair and railing as a single system. Low-iron glass is the most popular option for Vedera installations.
Viewrail Vedera Glass on a FLIGHT Mono system
### What Type of Glass Is Used in Railings?
Building codes in the United States require all glass used in railing applications to be safety glazing — either tempered or laminated. Standard annealed glass, which breaks into large, sharp shards, is not permitted for railing use.
#### Tempered Glass
Tempered glass is heat-treated to be approximately 4 to 5 times stronger than standard glass of the same thickness. Its safety characteristic is how it breaks: when tempered glass fails, it shatters into small, blunt fragments rather than sharp shards, significantly reducing injury risk.
For most residential railing applications (interior staircases, balcony guardrails, loft edges) tempered glass is the standard choice. Most building codes require a minimum thickness of 3/8" for railing applications, though frameless systems often specify 1/2" for additional structural performance. Note that tempered-only glass always requires a continuous top rail, there is no code exception to this requirement.
#### Laminated Glass
Laminated glass bonds two or more glass layers together with a polyvinyl butyral (PVB) interlayer. The interlayer's critical function is post-breakage performance: if the glass breaks, the PVB layer holds the fragments in place, keeping the panel intact as a barrier. The railing continues to function as a safety system even after impact.
This makes laminated glass the required specification for commercial applications under the International Building Code (IBC). It's also increasingly required for exterior applications in coastal and hurricane-zone jurisdictions, and for residential installations above heavily trafficked areas. An important code advantage: laminated glass panels that have been tested to ASTM E2353 may qualify for an exemption from the continuous top rail requirement — something tempered glass cannot achieve.
#### Ultra-Clear (Low-Iron) Glass
Standard tempered glass contains a small amount of iron oxide that gives it a faint greenish tint. It's barely noticeable in small panes, but visible in larger panels and especially pronounced when viewed from the edge. Ultra-clear glass, also called low-iron glass, reduces the iron oxide content to near zero, producing glass with exceptional color neutrality and maximum light transmission.
For design-forward residential projects — open floor plans, homes with significant views, contemporary architecture with large glass panels — low-iron glass produces a visual result that standard tempered glass can't match. Viewrail offers low-iron glass as an option across its glass railing systems.
For more on glass thickness and long-term care, see [How Do I Maintain Glass Railing?](/guides/maintenance/how-do-i-maintain-glass-railing). For top rail and graspability requirements, see [What Handrail Options Do I Have?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/handrail-options-for-stairs-decks-and-interiors).
### Where Is Glass Railing Used?
Glass railing works well for both interior and exterior applications across a wide range of building types. The glass type and hardware system you choose will vary based on the environment, structural requirements, and applicable code.
**Interior staircases** are the most common residential application. Frameless systems with tempered glass are the standard choice, providing a clean transition between floors without balusters or cable lines in the way. The transparency of the glass is especially valuable in open floor plans, where the railing should feel like an architectural element rather than a safety barrier.
**Exterior decks and balconies** introduce additional considerations: wind load, moisture exposure, and in some regions, hurricane requirements. Coastal installations typically call for marine-grade stainless steel hardware, and laminated glass is increasingly required — or simply the better specification — for exterior use.
**Loft and mezzanine edges** in open-plan interiors are natural fits for frameless glass railing. The goal is to define the edge of an elevated floor without interrupting views or light between levels.
**Commercial environments** — offices, retail spaces, hotel lobbies, public buildings — require laminated glass under the IBC and must meet more stringent load requirements than residential applications. Professional specification and installation are essential.
**Pool surrounds** benefit from glass railing's resistance to moisture and its transparency, which lets you supervise the pool area from adjacent spaces. Hardware should be corrosion-resistant, and tempered or laminated glass is required.
Viewrail Base Rail (exterior) and Ascend Talons (interior)
### Benefits of Glass Railing
**Unobstructed views.** This is the defining advantage. Cable railing imposes horizontal lines (even if barely noticeable) across the view; baluster systems subdivide the space with vertical elements. A glass panel provides a continuous, unobstructed barrier. In a home with views, or in an open interior where sightlines between floors matter, a glass railing genuinely disappears in a way that other systems don't.
**Natural light transmission.** Glass doesn't interrupt light the way solid materials do. In interior applications, a glass railing along a staircase or at a mezzanine edge allows light to move through the space rather than being blocked at each floor change. That meaningfully improves the feel of an interior.
**Lower day-to-day maintenance.** Glass doesn't rust, warp, rot, or need periodic refinishing. Cleaning the panels with a soft cloth and mild soap is the primary ongoing task. Hardware connections should be checked periodically, and outdoor systems should be inspected after significant weather events, but the day-to-day burden is minimal compared to wood or painted steel.
**Architectural versatility.** Frameless systems in brushed stainless steel complement modern and contemporary architecture. Post-supported systems in matte black aluminum work in industrial or transitional contexts. The glass itself — clear, low-iron, or frosted — can be tuned to the design intent. Few railing systems adapt as cleanly to as wide a range of architectural contexts.
Viewrail Vedera and Hidden Side Mount systems
### Glass Railing Building Code Requirements
Glass railing must comply with the code requirements of the jurisdiction where it's installed. In the United States, the primary references are the International Building Code (IBC) for commercial applications and the International Residential Code (IRC) for single-family residential. State and local jurisdictions adopt these codes, often with amendments. Always verify with your local authority having jurisdiction (AHJ).
**Safety glazing.** All glass used in railing applications must be safety glazing: tempered or laminated, per IBC Section 2407.
**Minimum thickness.** Most jurisdictions require a minimum of 3/8" thick tempered glass for railing applications. Frameless systems frequently specify 1/2". Laminated glass thickness requirements vary based on panel span, height, and load.
**Top rail requirements.** A continuous graspable top rail is required in most installations. The exception: laminated glass panels that have been tested to ASTM E2353 — which evaluates static loads, impact resistance, and post-breakage barrier performance — may be permitted without a top rail under IBC §2407, subject to approval by the local building official. Tempered-only glass always requires a top rail; there is no code exception for it.
**Load requirements.** Guardrails must be able to withstand a 200-pound concentrated horizontal load applied at the top (per IBC). The glass thickness and hardware anchoring system must be engineered to meet this requirement. Viewrail engineers glass hardware to withstand 2.5 times the loads required by code.
**Commercial applications** require laminated glass under the IBC. For residential applications, tempered glass is acceptable in most conditions, with exceptions for installations above heavily trafficked areas and, in an increasing number of jurisdictions, exterior applications in wind and hurricane exposure zones.
Professional installation with permit documentation is strongly recommended.
For top rail options and graspability details, see [What Handrail Options Do I Have?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/handrail-options-for-stairs-decks-and-interiors). For cleaning and long-term care, see [How Do I Maintain Glass Railing?](/guides/maintenance/how-do-i-maintain-glass-railing).
### How Much Does Glass Railing Cost?
Glass railing is a premium system. It costs more than aluminum baluster or standard wood railing, and is broadly comparable to cable railing in price range, with fully frameless configurations typically landing at the higher end.
The main variables are system type, glass type, linear footage, and hardware finish:
* Fully frameless systems cost more than framed systems because they require thicker glass and more precise hardware tolerances
* Laminated glass carries a premium over standard tempered glass
* Low-iron glass adds further to material cost
* Hardware finishes such as brushed stainless, matte black, powder-coated colors all affect price
Professional installation is recommended for code compliance and warranty validity. The precision required for frameless installation — particularly base rail leveling and hardware alignment — makes professional installation significantly more reliable than DIY for most homeowners.
For a full breakdown of glass railing pricing by system type and what affects the final quote, see [How much does Viewrail glass railing cost?](/guides/pricing/how-to-avoid-hidden-costs-with-glass-railing).
### Glass Railing vs. Cable Railing
Glass and cable railing are the two most commonly compared options for homeowners and architects pursuing a modern, open aesthetic. They're similar in cost range, occupy the same design territory, and both work well in residential and commercial applications. The differences are real and worth understanding before you commit.
**Visually**, they produce distinct effects. Cable railing is characterized by horizontal lines running between posts — open and airy, with the environment clearly visible between the cables. Glass railing presents a continuous transparent surface. For applications where the railing should genuinely disappear from the visual field, glass is more successful.
**Maintenance** differs in one key respect: cable railing requires periodic tension inspection and retensioning as cables settle over time. Glass railing has no comparable mechanical maintenance requirement.
**From a code perspective**, both systems are compliant when properly specified — cable is governed primarily by infill spacing requirements; glass by panel thickness, breakage performance, and top rail requirements.
If you want the full cable overview, see [What is Cable Railing?](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/what-is-cable-railing).
|
| Glass Railing | Cable Railing |
| ----------------- | -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | ---------------------------------------------------------- |
| Visual character | Continuous transparent panel | Open with visible horizontal lines between posts |
| Maintenance | Clean panels; inspect hardware periodically | Clean surfaces; periodic cable retensioning required |
| Code compliance | Glass thickness + ASTM E2353 / top rail required | 4" maximum infill spacing between cables |
| Cost range | Premium; frameless at the higher end | Premium; broadly comparable to glass |
| Best applications | Interior stairs, design-forward projects, spaces where unobstructed views matter | Exterior decks, coastal environments, industrial aesthetic |
### Frequently Asked Questions
Is glass railing safe?
Yes. Glass railing systems use tempered or laminated safety glass, both engineered to meet building code impact and load requirements. Tempered glass shatters into small, blunt fragments if broken; laminated glass stays intact due to its PVB interlayer. When professionally installed to IBC or IRC standards, glass railing is as safe as any other code-compliant railing system.
Does glass railing need a top rail?
In most installations, yes. Building codes require a graspable top rail on stair railings and guards. The exception applies specifically to laminated glass panels tested to ASTM E2353 standards, which demonstrate the system maintains its barrier function even if a panel breaks. Tempered-only glass always requires a top rail.
What thickness is required for glass railing?
Most building codes require a minimum of 3/8" thick tempered glass for railing applications. Frameless systems often use 1/2" glass for additional structural strength. Laminated glass thickness requirements vary based on panel span and load. Always verify requirements with your local building department and installer.
Can glass railing be installed outdoors?
Yes. Glass railing is well-suited for decks, balconies, and pool surrounds. Exterior installations should specify laminated glass in high-traffic or elevated-risk locations, and hardware should be marine-grade stainless steel in coastal environments. Many coastal and hurricane-zone jurisdictions require laminated glass for all exterior applications.
### Related topics
#### Compare systems
* [What is Cable Railing?](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/what-is-cable-railing) — Compare visibility, upkeep, and price range.
* [Should I Buy Cable Or Rod Railing?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/cable-railing-vs.-rod-railing-which-one-is-right-for-your-project) — Compare two modern infill options for open views.
* [What Railing Should I Choose for My Stairs?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/what-railing-should-i-choose-for-my-stairs) — See when glass fits best for stair applications.
#### Plan your project
* [How much does Viewrail glass railing cost?](/guides/pricing/how-to-avoid-hidden-costs-with-glass-railing) — Review the main cost drivers before you quote.
* [What Handrail Options Do I Have?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/handrail-options-for-stairs-decks-and-interiors) — Choose the right top rail or separate handrail.
* [Handrail Reference](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/compare-handrail-profiles) — Compare common handrail profile shapes.
#### Maintain and compare costs
* [How Do I Maintain Glass Railing?](/guides/maintenance/how-do-i-maintain-glass-railing) — Learn cleaning routines and outdoor care.
* [How much does Viewrail Cable Railing Cost?](/guides/pricing/how-much-does-viewrail-cable-railing-cost) — Compare glass pricing with another modern system.
# Railing System Deep Dives
Railing decisions often come down to details. This section covers the technical topics that shape performance, appearance, and long-term durability.
Start here if you want to understand how Viewrail systems work beyond the basics.
### In this section
* [How Viewrail's Hidden Fasteners Work](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/railing-system-deep-dives/how-viewrails-hidden-fasteners-work) — See how tensioning hardware stays inside the post for a cleaner look.
* [What Is Powder Coating? Viewrail's Process and Finish Options Explained](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/railing-system-deep-dives/what-is-powder-coating-viewrails-process-and-finish-options-explained) — Learn how finish choices affect appearance, durability, and warranty coverage.
* [Express vs. Signature Cable Railing: Which One Is Right for Your Project?](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/railing-system-deep-dives/express-vs.-signature-cable-railing-which-one-is-right-for-your-project) — Compare lead time, customization, coastal use, and install path.
* [Why 2205 Stainless Steel Is the Gold Standard for Coastal Railing](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/railing-system-deep-dives/why-2205-stainless-steel-is-the-gold-standard-for-coastal-railing) — Understand why material grade matters near saltwater.
### When to use these guides
Use these deep dives when you are:
* Comparing systems for a custom project
* Deciding between standard and coastal-ready materials
* Looking for the reason behind a specific hardware or finish choice
# How Viewrail's Hidden Fasteners Work
Learn how Viewrail's hidden fastener kits work — from Level Tension to DriveTite — and how each one keeps cables tensioned cleanly inside the post.
One of the first things people notice about Viewrail cable railing is what they *don't* see: no bulky hardware sticking out of the posts, no exposed bolts, and no fittings interrupting the view. Every Viewrail cable system is engineered so the tensioning and anchoring hardware lives *inside* the post, keeping your sightlines completely clear.
Here's how it works and how to know which kit applies to your project.
If you need the full system overview first, start with [What is Cable Railing?](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/what-is-cable-railing).
### Why Hidden Fasteners?
Traditional cable railing hardware is functional, but it's not pretty. Exposed fittings can protrude several inches from the face of a post, cluttering the clean horizontal lines that make cable railing worth choosing in the first place.
Viewrail solved this by designing fastener systems that work entirely inside the post. The posts themselves come pre-drilled to accept the hardware, so there's no guesswork during installation — you mount the posts, run the cable, and the tensioning hardware disappears inside.
If you are still choosing post types or mounting conditions, see [What Cable Railing Post Mounting Styles Are There?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/cable-railing-post-mounting-styles-compared).
The result is a railing that looks as refined outdoors as it does inside. That's a higher standard than most cable railing manufacturers hold themselves to.
{% columns %}
{% column %}
Exterior Signature Rod Railing
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
Interior Signature Rod Railing
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### The Hidden Fastener Kits
Viewrail offers four distinct hardware kits, each designed for a specific situation. Understanding which kit does what will help you plan your project correctly.
#### Level Tension Kit
The Level Tension Kit is the workhorse of any straight, horizontal cable run. It anchors and tensions one end of a cable wire from inside the post. No hardware is visible from the outside.
Each kit contains three components:
* **Tension Receiver** — accepts the fitting and allows you to dial in tension
* **Threaded Crimp Fitting** — crimped onto the end of the cable wire
* **Adhesive Sleeve** — provides a clean finish at the post face
You'll need one kit per cable, per tensioning end. For a 36" post with 10 cable runs, that's 10 Level Tension Kits at each end post. Viewrail's 5/32" 316 stainless steel cable is used with this system.
> **Note:** The Level Tension Kit only works with Viewrail's metal posts. For wood posts, see DriveTite below.
Level Tension Kit
#### Angle Tension Kit
The Angle Tension Kit works the same way as the Level Tension Kit, but it's designed for stair and angle applications where the cable runs on a slope rather than a level plane.
The key differences from the level version:
* Includes an **Angle Washer** that sits on the back side of the post to accommodate the cable's entry angle (select the washer that matches your stair pitch)
* Uses an **Adhesive Sleeve** with a beveled interior diameter to provide extra cable clearance at the angle
Each kit contains:
* Tension Receiver
* Threaded Crimp Fitting
* Angle Washer (angle-specific)
* Angle Adhesive Sleeve
Like the Level Tension Kit, this is a metal-post-only system. DriveTite handles angled wood-post installations.
Angle Tension Kit
#### Inside Post Mount Kit
The Inside Post Mount Kit solves a problem that most cable railing manufacturers handle poorly: corners.
In a typical cable railing system, turning a 90° corner requires two posts — one to terminate the first run and one to start the perpendicular run. The Inside Post Mount Kit lets you do it with a single post, keeping the cables on the same plane and saving you both cost and visual bulk.
Here's how it works: the Termination Washer and Cable Stop are inserted diagonally through a 5/16" hole in the post, then rotated 90° so they lock against the inside wall. Once tension is applied at the other end of the run using a Level or Angle Tension Kit, the hardware pulls tight and stays put, entirely out of sight.
Each kit contains:
* Termination Washer Fitting
* Cable Stop
* Adhesive Sleeve
**Important:** The Inside Post Mount Kit provides no tensioning ability on its own. Every run that uses this kit at one end must use a Level Tension Kit or Angle Tension Kit at the other end to keep the cables taut.
Inside Post Mount Kit
#### DriveTite Kit
DriveTite is Viewrail's solution for wood posts, whether you're working with brand-new posts, existing posts you want to keep, or a framed wall structure.
If you're still deciding between wood and metal posts, see [Wood vs Metal Railing Posts: Which Is Better for Cable Railing?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/wood-vs-metal-railing-posts-which-is-better-for-cable-railing).
Instead of threading hardware through a hollow metal post, DriveTite fastens into the face of the wood post using a small pilot hole. The tensioning components are then concealed inside a slim stainless steel cylindrical cover, giving wood-post systems the same clean look as the metal post systems.
DriveTite comes in two versions:
**Level Kit** — for horizontal cable runs. Each kit includes:
* Receiver Screw
* Threaded Crimp Fitting
* DriveTite Turnbuckle
* DriveTite Receiver
* DriveTite Cover
**Angle Kit** — for stair and angled cable runs. Each kit includes:
* Threaded Crimp Fitting
* DriveTite Angle Mount
* DriveTite Angle Receiver
* DriveTite Angle Set Screw
DriveTite works with solid wood posts at least 2½" thick. All components are manufactured from marine-grade 316 stainless steel. It's compatible with 5/32" cable and pairs with both the Signature and Express cable systems.
DriveTite Level Kit
DriveTite Angle Kit
### How the Kits Work Together
Most cable runs involve at least two posts: a start and an end. The hardware you choose at each end determines how the tension is managed across the span.
A typical level run might look like this:
* **Post A (end post):** Level Tension Kit — applies and adjusts tension
* **Post B (end post):** Level Tension Kit or Inside Post Mount Kit — anchors the other end
A stair run might use:
* **Post A:** Angle Tension Kit
* **Post B:** Angle Tension Kit or Inside Post Mount Kit
Corner transitions use:
* **Corner post:** Inside Post Mount Kit on the terminating run, Level Tension Kit on the starting run — all within the same post
This is the detail that sets Viewrail apart from most other cable railing brands. The ability to manage a 90° corner in one post, with all hardware hidden inside, is a direct result of how the post holes and kit geometry are engineered together.
### What You'll Need for Installation
All cable railing systems use Viewrail's **5/32" 316 stainless steel, 1×19 cable**. The 1×19 construction means 19 individual wire strands wound into a single cable. It's durable, holds tension well, and has a smooth, consistent surface that makes crimping clean and precise.
You'll also need a **Cable Rail Installation Kit**, which includes the specialized tools required for cutting and crimping the cable. The crimp fitting won't seat properly without the right crimper, so don't skip it.
For DriveTite installations, Viewrail offers a dedicated **DriveTite Installation Kit** with the tools matched to that system.
For the full install sequence, see [How Do I Install a Cable Railing System?](/guides/install/how-do-i-install-a-cable-or-rod-railing-system) and [Is DIY Cable Railing Installation Worth It?](/guides/install/is-diy-cable-railing-installation-worth-it).
### Related topics
* [What is Cable Railing?](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/what-is-cable-railing) — Learn how posts, cable, and hardware work together.
* [What Cable Railing Post Mounting Styles Are There?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/cable-railing-post-mounting-styles-compared) — Match your hidden fastener setup to the right post mount.
* [Wood vs Metal Railing Posts: Which Is Better for Cable Railing?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/wood-vs-metal-railing-posts-which-is-better-for-cable-railing) — Decide when to use metal-post kits or DriveTite.
# What Is Powder Coating? Viewrail's Process and Finish Options Explained
Learn how Viewrail powder coats its railing posts and which finish, High Performance or Superior Performance, is right for your project environment.
Powder coating is how Viewrail protects the metal in your railing system.
It's a finishing process in which dry powder is electrostatically applied to a metal surface, then baked on at high heat to create a hard, bonded shell. That shell keeps the underlying metal sealed against moisture, UV rays, and environmental contaminants.
Here's what you need to know about why it matters, how Viewrail does it, and which finish is right for your project.
### Why Aluminum Posts Need Powder Coating
Aluminum doesn't rust the way iron or steel does, it contains no iron, so the traditional rust process doesn't apply. What it does do is oxidize. When raw aluminum is exposed to moisture and air over time, a dull, chalky oxidation layer can begin to form on the surface. Left unsealed, this degrades both the appearance and the integrity of the metal.
Powder coating seals the surface entirely, cutting off that exposure before oxidation takes hold. It also adds color, gloss, and surface hardness that bare aluminum simply can't offer.
### How Viewrail Prepares and Coats Its Posts
Getting a powder coat to bond properly, and stay bonded for years, starts long before any powder is applied. Viewrail uses a tightly controlled, multi-step process on every post.
1. **Shot blasting** — Each post is blasted with fine media to strip surface contaminants and smooth out micro-inconsistencies in the metal.
2. **Chemical bath series** — Posts rotate through a series of chemical baths that clean and condition the surface at a molecular level, leaving it fully prepared to bond with the powder.
3. **Powder application** — Dry powder is applied electrostatically to ensure even, complete coverage across the entire surface.
4. **Computerized baking** — Posts go through a controlled baking process that superheats the powder and fuses it permanently to the metal.
The result is a consistent, durable finish that's built into the metal, not just sitting on top of it.
### Viewrail's Two Powder Coat Tiers
Viewrail offers two powder coat options, each rated to a different AAMA performance standard and suited to different environments.
#### High Performance Powder Coat (AAMA 2604)
Also referred to as Standard powder coat, this is Viewrail's baseline finish. It's formulated with super-durable polyester resins that resist chipping, scratching, and fading under normal outdoor conditions. AAMA 2604 coatings are tested against five years of real-world exposure in South Florida — heat, humidity, and UV included. It's a strong, reliable choice for most residential and light commercial exterior applications.
**Available colors:** Standard Black, Standard White, Standard Silver, Standard Bright Brass
#### Superior Performance Powder Coat (AAMA 2605)
Viewrail's top-tier finish. Superior Performance is a fluoropolymer-based coating that delivers the highest resistance to UV fading, color shift, and environmental degradation. It meets the AAMA 2605 specification and comes with a 5-year finish warranty. If your project is in a coastal region, a high-UV climate, or anywhere with elevated humidity or salt exposure, this is the finish to specify.
**Available colors:** Jet Black, Bright White, Burnished Bronze, Iron Oxide, Textured Black, Deep Pewter, Light Bronze, Warm Stone, Limestone Buff, Spruce Green, Desert Sand, Burnished Gold, Pistachio Green, Midnight Blue, Alabaster White, Textured Plaster, Gray Mist, Polished Silver, Graphite Gray
### Choosing the Right Finish for Your Project
| Environment | Recommended Finish |
| ---------------------------------- | -------------------------------- |
| Interior or sheltered outdoor | High Performance (AAMA 2604) |
| Standard exterior use | High Performance (AAMA 2604) |
| Coastal, high-UV, or harsh climate | Superior Performance (AAMA 2605) |
If you're working near saltwater or in an unusually harsh environment, it's worth talking to a Viewrail rep before you order. Some projects benefit from pairing Superior Performance powder coat with e-coat, an electrodeposition layer applied beneath the powder that reaches into seams and recesses where corrosion typically starts first.
If your project is exposed to salt air or heavy moisture, see [Why is Coastal Warranty Important](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/railing-system-deep-dives/why-2205-stainless-steel-is-the-gold-standard-for-coastal-railing).
### Maintaining Your Powder Coated Railing
Powder coated posts are low maintenance by design. As long as the surface stays intact and sealed, it will keep protecting the metal underneath.
To keep things looking their best:
* **Clean regularly** with mild soap and water
* **Avoid harsh chemical cleaners** — they can degrade the finish over time
* **Inspect periodically** for chips or scratches, and address any exposed metal promptly to prevent oxidation from starting
Want to see the colors in person before you commit? You can order powder coat samples at [viewrail.com/samples](https://www.viewrail.com/samples/).
If you are planning a full railing system, see [How Do I Maintain Cable Railing?](/guides/maintenance/how-do-i-maintain-cable-railing) for broader upkeep guidance.
### Related topics
#### Compare materials and systems
* [Wood vs Metal Railing Posts: Which Is Better for Cable Railing?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/wood-vs-metal-railing-posts-which-is-better-for-cable-railing) — Compare durability, maintenance, and finish considerations.
* [What is Cable Railing?](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/what-is-cable-railing) — See how powder-coated aluminum posts fit into a full cable railing system.
* [What is Glass Railing?](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/what-is-glass-railing) — Compare post-supported glass systems and other modern railing options.
#### Choose for your environment
* [Why is Coastal Warranty Important](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/railing-system-deep-dives/why-2205-stainless-steel-is-the-gold-standard-for-coastal-railing) — Learn when coastal exposure changes the right material and finish choice.
# Express vs. Signature Cable Railing: Which One Is Right for Your Project?
Not sure whether to choose Express or Signature cable railing? Here's how they compare on customization, lead time, coastal use, and more.
Viewrail offers two cable railing lines: Express and Signature. They're both built with the same quality materials and the same sleek aesthetic Viewrail is known for, but they're designed for different projects, different timelines, and different levels of customization. Here's how to tell them apart and choose the right one.
If you need the full product-category overview first, start with [What is Cable Railing?](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/what-is-cable-railing).
### The Short Version
**Express** is a pre-configured, in-stock system designed for fast delivery and straightforward DIY installation. **Signature** is a fully custom-engineered system for projects that need more flexibility — more finish options, more post styles, more material choices, and more design support.
If you know your project is relatively simple and you want to get moving quickly, Express is the answer. If your project has complex geometry, specific aesthetic requirements, or a coastal location, Signature is the way to go.
If installation is a big part of your decision, see [Can I Install Cable Railing Myself?](broken://spaces/YiIQ32eyDEEMOXuUTd8u/pages/hfzS4NElJ6PyabWq4Kxt).
### Express Cable Railing
Express is Viewrail's fastest path to a finished railing. Because it's kept in stock and ships in as little as one to three business days from Goshen, Indiana, it's ideal for projects where timeline matters.
#### What you get with Express
* **Black, silver, or white aluminum posts** — available in 36" and 42" heights with surface mount or side mount options
* **Pre-drilled and pre-slotted posts** — no field drilling required; just mount, run cable, and tension
* **Single-post corners** — most systems require two posts to turn a corner; Express does it with one, opening up your sightlines and reducing material cost
* **Level and stair configurations** — dedicated level and angle post types handle both flat deck runs and stair applications right out of the box
* **5/32" stainless steel cable**, available on 100 ft. or 400 ft. spools
* **1-year finish warranty** on the Standard powder coat
#### What Express doesn't include
Express comes in three standard finishes for aluminum posts. If you need a different color, different material, or a custom handrail profile, you'll need Signature.
Express is also **not suitable for coastal environments.** The system uses carbon steel mounting hardware, and the combination of aluminum posts and stainless cable in a saltwater environment can cause galvanic corrosion over time. Express posts are not covered under the Viewrail Coastal Product Warranty, and the system is not recommended for installations within 5 miles of a saltwater coast. If your project is near the water, Signature is the right choice. For more detail on coastal materials and corrosion resistance, see [Why is Coastal Warranty Important](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/railing-system-deep-dives/why-2205-stainless-steel-is-the-gold-standard-for-coastal-railing).
#### Express is a great fit if you…
* Want your railing fast (1–3 business day lead time)
* Plan to install it yourself
* Have a straightforward deck, balcony, or stair project
* Are happy with black, white, or silver colors
* Are not within 5 miles of a saltwater coast
### Signature Cable Railing
Signature is Viewrail's fully custom cable railing system. You work directly with a Viewrail project team to dial in every detail, including post style, finish, infill type, handrail profile, and more. It takes longer than Express, but the result is a system built precisely for your space.
#### What you get with Signature
* **50+ finish options** across powder coat and brushed stainless steel
* **16 handrail types**, including metal, wood, and LED-integrated options
* **9 post mounting styles** — surface mount, side mount, core-drill, and more
* **Multiple infill options:**
* **Cable** — the classic look; 5/32" stainless steel
* **Onyx Rod** — 1/4" matte black powder-coated steel rod; sleek and bold
* **Stainless Rod** — 1/4" 2205 stainless steel; no re-tensioning required, always coastal-rated
* **Steel or aluminum posts** — structural aluminum for most applications, or 304/2205 stainless steel for coastal and high-demand environments
* **Coastal-rated configurations** — using 2205 stainless steel components or aluminum with Superior Performance powder coat, Signature can be fully spec'd for saltwater environments
* **5-year limited finish warranty** on Superior Performance powder coat and select finishes
* **10-year structural warranty** on coastal products
If you want to compare infill options or post layouts in more detail, see [Should I Buy Cable Or Rod Railing?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/cable-railing-vs.-rod-railing-which-one-is-right-for-your-project) and [What Cable Railing Post Mounting Styles Are There?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/cable-railing-post-mounting-styles-compared).
#### The Signature process
Signature isn't something you buy off a shelf, you design it. Here's what that typically looks like:
1. **Submit a quote request** with your project details and measurements
2. **Design consultation** — a Viewrail specialist reviews your layout, proposes post placement, and helps confirm finishes
3. **Engineering review** — post spacing, mount type, and any adjustments to keep the system code-compliant and on budget (simpler projects may skip this step)
4. **Project files and proposal** — you receive labeled component lists and PDFs so you can review everything before it goes into production
5. **Production and shipping** — your system is custom-manufactured and shipped to you or your installer
If you'd rather not DIY, Viewrail's network of Certified Installers can handle everything from site measurement to finished installation. If you do plan to install it yourself, start with [How Do I Install a Cable Railing System?](/guides/install/how-do-i-install-a-cable-or-rod-railing-system).
#### Signature is a great fit if you…
* Want a custom color, finish, or handrail profile
* Have a coastal or high-exposure environment
* Need a more complex layout (curves, mixed stair and level runs, unusual geometry)
* Want a fully designed system with engineering support
* Prefer stainless rod infill over cable
* Want Viewrail's full warranty coverage
### Side-by-Side Comparison
| | **Express** | **Signature** |
| -------------------- | ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ | ------------------------------------------------------------ |
| **Lead time** | 1–3 business days | Varies by project complexity |
| **Finishes** | Black, White, or Silver | 50+ options |
| **Infill** | Cable | Cable, Onyx Rod, Stainless Rod |
| **Post materials** | Aluminum | Aluminum or stainless steel |
| **Handrail options** | Standard or Beverage handrail | 16 types including LED-integrated |
| **Coastal use** | Not within 5 miles of saltwater | Available (2205 SS or Superior Performance powder coat) |
| **Design support** | Self-service online builder | Dedicated project team |
| **Warranty** | Competitive structural & finish warranty; excludes Viewrail Coastal Product Warranty | Full Viewrail Warranty Program; up to 5-year finish warranty |
| **Best for** | Fast, DIY deck and stair projects | Custom, complex, or coastal projects |
### Still Not Sure?
The simplest way to decide: if the Express online builder covers your project and matte black works for your space, go with Express. You'll move faster and likely spend less.
If anything about your project falls outside what Express offers — the finish, the location, the complexity — that's what Signature is built for. Reach out to the Viewrail team and they'll help you figure out exactly what you need.
If budget is still part of the decision, review [How much does Viewrail Cable Railing Cost?](/guides/pricing/how-much-does-viewrail-cable-railing-cost).
### Related topics
* [What is Cable Railing?](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/what-is-cable-railing) — Get the full overview of parts, layouts, and use cases.
* [What Cable Railing Post Mounting Styles Are There?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/cable-railing-post-mounting-styles-compared) — Compare surface, side, stair, and concrete mount options.
* [Should I Buy Cable Or Rod Railing?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/cable-railing-vs.-rod-railing-which-one-is-right-for-your-project) — Decide whether cable or rod fits your project better.
* [How much does Viewrail Cable Railing Cost?](/guides/pricing/how-much-does-viewrail-cable-railing-cost) — Compare price ranges for Express, Signature, and different infills.
* [Can I Install Cable Railing Myself?](broken://spaces/YiIQ32eyDEEMOXuUTd8u/pages/hfzS4NElJ6PyabWq4Kxt) — See whether Express or Signature fits a DIY install.
* [Why is Coastal Warranty Important](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/railing-system-deep-dives/why-2205-stainless-steel-is-the-gold-standard-for-coastal-railing) — Understand when coastal-rated materials matter.
# Why 2205 Stainless Steel Is the Gold Standard for Coastal Railing
2205 duplex stainless steel outperforms 316 in coastal environments. Learn why Viewrail uses it, how the PREN scale works, and how to keep your railing under warranty.
If you live near the water, the material your railing is made from isn't just an aesthetic choice, it's a long-term investment decision. Salt air, moisture, and chloride exposure can destroy ordinary metals in a matter of years. That's why Viewrail uses 2205 duplex stainless steel as the foundation of its coastal railing systems. Here's what makes it different, and why it matters for your home.
If you are still comparing infill types, see [What is Cable Railing?](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/what-is-cable-railing) and [Should I Buy Cable Or Rod Railing?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/cable-railing-vs.-rod-railing-which-one-is-right-for-your-project). If you already know you want cable, compare [Express vs. Signature Cable Railing: Which One Is Right for Your Project?](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/railing-system-deep-dives/express-vs.-signature-cable-railing-which-one-is-right-for-your-project).
#### Why Stainless Steel Grade Matters
Not all stainless steel is created equal. The term covers a broad family of metal alloys, each with a different chemical composition and a different ability to resist corrosion. The grade, such as 304, 316, or 2205, describes the specific mix of elements in that alloy and directly determines how it will perform in demanding environments.
For decades, the railing industry treated 316 stainless steel as the benchmark for corrosion resistance. It worked well in most applications, and it still does outside of coastal zones. But when Viewrail first began installing 316 posts in the harshest coastal locations, the results were disappointing. Warranty claims started coming in as early as three months after installation, sometimes stretching to three years. When the team went back to inspect, they found pitting at the tops of the posts and corrosion beginning around the mounting holes, exactly the spots where moisture and salt could pool and go to work.
Something better was needed.
#### How the Industry Measures Corrosion Resistance: The PREN Scale
The steel industry uses a standardized measurement called the **Pitting Resistance Equivalency Number (PREN)** to compare how well different alloys hold up against chloride-induced corrosion. The formula weighs the concentrations of three key elements — chromium, molybdenum, and nitrogen — each of which plays a distinct role in protecting the metal's surface from pitting.
A PREN score of 32 or higher is generally considered the threshold for full resistance to saltwater environments. Here's how the common grades compare:
| Alloy | PREN Score | Recommended Use |
| --------------------------- | ---------- | -------------------------------- |
| 304 Stainless Steel | \~18–19 | Interior applications only |
| 316 Stainless Steel | \~25 | Exterior, non-coastal |
| 2205 Duplex Stainless Steel | \~34–35 | Coastal and extreme environments |
316 falls well short of that threshold, leaving it vulnerable in truly salty environments. 2205 duplex clears it comfortably, and that gap is the difference between a railing that holds up for decades and one that starts showing corrosion within a year or two.
Viewrail still uses 304 stainless steel for interior applications or exterior locations at least five miles from saltwater. For anything closer to the coast, 2205 is the right call.
#### What Makes 2205 Different
2205 is a duplex stainless steel, meaning it has a two-phase microstructure (austenitic and ferritic) that delivers both high strength and exceptional corrosion resistance. Its elevated chromium, molybdenum, and nitrogen content are what push its PREN score well above the saltwater threshold that 316 can't reach.
In practice, that difference shows up in real-world performance. After Viewrail switched to 2205 and replaced several corroded 316 installations, the long-term results were dramatically better. The same alloy has long been trusted in offshore oil rigs, marine infrastructure, and pedestrian bridges over brackish water — industries where material failure isn't an option.
#### Viewrail's 2205 Coastal Railing Systems
For projects within five miles of the coast, Viewrail offers two coastal-ready railing configurations, both built around 2205 stainless steel posts:
**Rod Infill System**
* 2205 duplex stainless steel posts (brushed or powder coated)
* ¼" 2205 stainless rod infill — available in brushed stainless or Coastal Onyx
* Isolators to prevent metal-to-metal contact
* Eck anti-corrosion treatment for added salt protection
* Compatible with aluminum posts finished in AAMA 2605 powder coat as an alternative to stainless posts
**Cable Infill System**
* 2205 duplex stainless steel posts (brushed or powder coated)
* 5/32" 316 stainless steel cable infill
* No isolators required — the all-stainless combination eliminates galvanic corrosion risk
The ¼" rod infill is worth highlighting for coastal projects specifically: unlike woven cable, which is made up of many individual wire strands with small gaps between them where salt and moisture can become trapped, each rod is a single hollow tube with a smooth, uninterrupted surface. There's no place for corrosive elements to work their way in, and the rods won't sag over time.
If you are comparing coated aluminum to stainless steel for a coastal build, see [What Is Powder Coating? Viewrail's Process and Finish Options Explained](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/railing-system-deep-dives/what-is-powder-coating-viewrails-process-and-finish-options-explained). If you want a broader post-material comparison, see [Wood vs Metal Railing Posts: Which Is Better for Cable Railing?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/wood-vs-metal-railing-posts-which-is-better-for-cable-railing).
#### Warranty Coverage
Viewrail backs coastal railing systems built with 2205 stainless steel with a **structural warranty** for projects within five miles of the coast, and a **finish warranty** covering fading, adhesion failure, and permanent structural corrosion. See full details on our [warranty page](https://www.viewrail.com/warranty/).
Surface-level oxidation, staining, or discoloration that can be removed through cleaning is not considered corrosion under the warranty terms, structural corrosion that permanently compromises the metal is what's covered.
Regular maintenance with **Marine 31 Polish and Sealant** is required to keep that coverage valid.
#### How to Maintain Your 2205 Stainless Steel Railing
2205 is built to last with minimal effort, but regular maintenance keeps the finish looking sharp and is required to maintain your warranty. Here's what Viewrail recommends:
**Every 6 Months: Polish and Seal**
1. **Rinse thoroughly** with fresh water to remove salt, dirt, and debris. A pressure washer works well for this step.
2. **Apply Marine 31 Stainless Steel Liquid Polish** to restore the brushed finish and remove any light oxidation or surface staining. Work in small sections with a terry cloth applicator.
3. **Rinse the polish away completely.** Residual polish will interfere with the sealant. Wiping the surface down with rubbing alcohol after rinsing ensures it's fully clean.
4. **Apply Marine 31 Stainless Steel Liquid Sealant** using a clean, dry foam applicator. Apply a thin, even coat, allow it to dry for at least five minutes, then buff off any residue with a clean cloth. The acrylic-based sealant protects against UV exposure and salt degradation for up to six months.
**Routine Cleaning**
* Wipe down posts and infill periodically with a microfiber cloth and mild soapy water. Avoid harsh chemical cleaners, bleach, and abrasive materials which can damage the brushed finish.
* Use distilled water when possible, as tap water can leave mineral deposits or streaks.
* Clear leaves, pollen, and other debris that collects around post bases or between rods. These trap moisture against the metal and accelerate surface staining.
* In snowy climates, clear snow and ice from exterior posts and infill promptly.
**What to Watch For**
* **Surface tea staining or discoloration** is common in coastal environments and is not structural corrosion. It can typically be cleaned or polished away.
* Pay extra attention to **mounting holes and post tops** — these areas are most prone to trapping moisture. Make sure the sealant coat is well applied around these spots.
* If you notice pitting that catches a fingernail, or corrosion that appears to be compromising the metal structurally rather than just the surface, contact Viewrail to evaluate a potential warranty claim.
For broader upkeep guidance, see [How Do I Maintain Cable Railing?](/guides/maintenance/how-do-i-maintain-cable-railing) and [How To Take Care of Your Exterior Cable Railing](broken://spaces/YiIQ32eyDEEMOXuUTd8u/pages/sDCvrBiZSKlucPlO1vTm).
#### A Note on Long Island and Coastal Connecticut
For most coastal locations, 2205 stainless steel posts are warranted and recommended. For projects on **Long Island, NY**, Viewrail requires 2205 stainless steel posts within one mile of the coast to maintain warranty coverage. Aluminum posts are excluded from warranty within that distance.
If your project is in Long Island or coastal Connecticut, check with a Viewrail representative before finalizing your material selection to make sure you have the right system for your exact location.
#### The Bottom Line
If your project is within 5 miles of saltwater, the grade of stainless steel in your railing matters more than most people realize. 316 was the industry standard for a long time, but it doesn't meet the PREN threshold for true salt resistance. 2205 duplex stainless steel does, and with the right maintenance routine, it's the most durable, longest-lasting stainless railing option available for coastal homes.
### Related topics
#### Compare materials
* [What is Cable Railing?](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/what-is-cable-railing) — Get the full overview of cable systems, materials, and use cases.
* [Should I Buy Cable Or Rod Railing?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/cable-railing-vs.-rod-railing-which-one-is-right-for-your-project) — Compare corrosion resistance, maintenance, and install time.
* [Wood vs Metal Railing Posts: Which Is Better for Cable Railing?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/wood-vs-metal-railing-posts-which-is-better-for-cable-railing) — Choose the right post material for coastal exposure.
#### Choose the right system
* [Express vs. Signature Cable Railing: Which One Is Right for Your Project?](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/railing-system-deep-dives/express-vs.-signature-cable-railing-which-one-is-right-for-your-project) — See which product line supports coastal projects.
* [What Is Powder Coating? Viewrail's Process and Finish Options Explained](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/railing-system-deep-dives/what-is-powder-coating-viewrails-process-and-finish-options-explained) — Learn when powder coat makes sense near salt air.
#### Maintain your railing
* [How Do I Maintain Cable Railing?](/guides/maintenance/how-do-i-maintain-cable-railing) — Review routine cleaning and inspection.
* [How To Take Care of Your Exterior Cable Railing](broken://spaces/YiIQ32eyDEEMOXuUTd8u/pages/sDCvrBiZSKlucPlO1vTm) — See post and finish care for exterior systems.
# How Can I Customize My FLIGHT Staircase?
Customize a FLIGHT staircase in seven decisions. Start with the stair system. Then choose finishes, railing, and upgrades.
### Follow the process
1. [Choose Your FLIGHT Style](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-flight-staircase/choose-your-flight-style)
2. [Choose FLIGHT Wood Species and Finish](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-flight-staircase/choose-flight-wood-species-and-finish)
3. [Choose a FLIGHT Metal Finish](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-flight-staircase/choose-a-flight-metal-finish)
4. [Choose a FLIGHT Glass Railing Style](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-flight-staircase/choose-a-flight-glass-railing-style)
5. [Choose a FLIGHT Cable Railing Style](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-flight-staircase/choose-a-flight-cable-railing-style)
6. [Choose a FLIGHT Handrail or Top Cap](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-flight-staircase/choose-a-flight-handrail-or-top-cap)
7. [FLIGHT Design Upgrades and Add-Ons](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-flight-staircase/flight-design-upgrades-and-add-ons)
###
### Related topics
#### Plan your staircase
* [What are Floating Stairs](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/what-are-floating-stairs) — Learn the basics behind each FLIGHT style.
* [Are Floating Stairs Safe?](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/are-floating-stairs-safe) — Understand structure, code, and safety expectations.
* [What Railing Should I Choose for My Stairs?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/what-railing-should-i-choose-for-my-stairs) — Compare glass, cable, and other stair railing options.
#### Refine the details
* [What Handrail Options Do I Have?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/handrail-options-for-stairs-decks-and-interiors) — Compare handrail materials, profiles, and mounting styles.
* [Handrail Reference](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/compare-handrail-profiles) — Review common wood handrail profile shapes.
* [What Cable Railing Post Mounting Styles Are There?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/cable-railing-post-mounting-styles-compared) — Match post mounting to your stair and landing layout.
#### Price and prepare
* [How much do FLIGHT Floating Stairs Cost?](/guides/pricing/how-much-do-flight-floating-stairs-cost) — See how stair style and upgrades affect price.
* [How Do I Install a FLIGHT System?](/guides/install/how-do-i-install-a-flight-system) — Review the full install process before finalizing details.
* [Jobsite Preparation for FLIGHT](broken://spaces/YiIQ32eyDEEMOXuUTd8u/pages/kl5RdlwWPRUvW5UdtsQM) — Confirm site conditions early to avoid project delays.
# Choose Your FLIGHT Style
Compare FLIGHT Mono, Cantilever, Stack, and Spiral to find the right floating stair system for your space.
Choose the stair system first. It drives structure, railing options, and upgrades.
If you're still comparing systems, start with [What are Floating Stairs](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/what-are-floating-stairs), [Are Floating Stairs Safe?](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/are-floating-stairs-safe), and [How much do FLIGHT Floating Stairs Cost?](/guides/pricing/how-much-do-flight-floating-stairs-cost).
### FLIGHT Mono
The original Viewrail floating stair. FLIGHT Mono feels sculptural, structural, and open.
**Design options**\
Stringer powder coat color\
Wood species and finish\
Railing style\
Exterior tread available
**Upgrades**\
LED treads\
LED handrail\
Grip strips\
Glass risers
[Download FLIGHT Mono spec sheet](https://www.viewrail.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/04/FLIGHT-Mono-Spec-Sheet-v1.2-rough.pdf)
### FLIGHT Cantilever
Pure minimalism with fully hidden wall-mounted support.
**Design options**\
Wood species and finish\
Glass type\
Top cap\
LED upgrades
**Standard features**\
Vedera glass railing
[Download FLIGHT Cantilever spec sheet](https://www.viewrail.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/04/FLIGHT-Cantilever-Spec-Sheet-New-Gen.pdf)
### FLIGHT Stack
A closed-riser system with the structure hidden from view.
**Design options**\
Wood species and finish\
Glass type\
Top cap\
LED upgrades
**Standard features**\
Vedera glass railing
[Download FLIGHT Stack spec sheet](https://www.viewrail.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/04/FLIGHT-Stack-Spec-Sheet-v1.pdf)
### FLIGHT Spiral
A complete spiral system with helical treads, curved rod infill, and premium materials.
**Design options**\
Interior butcher block\
Exterior metal pan\
Metal powder coat color\
Wood species and finish\
LED upgrade
**Standard features**\
Round posts\
Stainless steel rod infill\
Round metal handrail
[Download interior spiral spec sheet](https://www.viewrail.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/04/Interior-Spiral-Parts-v2-1.pdf)\
[Download exterior spiral spec sheet](https://www.viewrail.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/04/Exterior-Spiral-Specs-v2-1.pdf)
# Choose FLIGHT Wood Species and Finish
Compare tread and handrail wood species, then choose the finish that fits your FLIGHT staircase.
### Wood species
The character, color, and feel of your treads and handrail start here.
{% columns %}
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*Not pictured: Quartersawn and Riftsawn White Oak*
After installation, follow the [wood stair tread and handrail maintenance guide](/guides/maintenance/how-do-i-maintain-wood-stair-treads-and-handrails) to protect your selected species and finish.
### Wood finish
Choose from light, dark, and warm natural tones. These samples show popular finishes on White Oak.
[View the full species and stains guide](https://www.viewrail.com/modern-stair-treads/wood-stains-species-guide/)
{% columns %}
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# Choose a FLIGHT Metal Finish
Explore powder coat options for FLIGHT stringers, posts, and metal handrails.
Choose a powder coat finish for your stringer, posts, and metal handrail. Custom colors are also available.
### Metal finishes
Talk to your rep if you want a custom finish for your quote.
{% columns %}
{% column width="25%" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
# Choose a FLIGHT Glass Railing Style
Compare integrated and stair-compatible glass railing options for FLIGHT stairs, landings, and level runs.
Glass keeps the stair open and lets the architecture stay visible.
If you prefer cable instead, see [Choose a FLIGHT Cable Railing Style](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-flight-staircase/choose-a-flight-cable-railing-style).
### Vedera
Vedera is the most integrated glass option for FLIGHT.
It delivers zero exposed hardware and crystal clear glass. Proprietary hardware anchors the panels into the treads, then tread-matching end slices cover the connection for a continuous wood grain and clean sightline. Pair it with a matching wood cap rail or a metal top cap.
**Use case**\
Stairs\
Landings
**Mounting**\
Side
[Download Vedera spec sheet](https://www.viewrail.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/Vedera-Tread-Exploded-View-1.pdf)
### Stair-compatible glass systems
Use these systems on the stair run. Then pair them with matching or complementary systems on landings and balconies.
{% columns %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### Hydrophobic coating
Invisible Shield® PRO 15 helps protect the glass from soiling, staining, pitting, and scratches. It is available on all glass types.
Learn more about [hydrophobic glass coating](https://www.viewrail.com/glass-railing/hydrophobic-glass-coating/).
# Choose a FLIGHT Cable Railing Style
Compare Signature cable railing infill, mounting styles, and related options for FLIGHT stairs and landings.
Cable railing gives FLIGHT a clean, modern look with flexible mounting options.
For glass instead, see [Choose a FLIGHT Glass Railing Style](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-flight-staircase/choose-a-flight-glass-railing-style).
### Signature series
Choose Signature when you want the most customization and the widest material and layout options.
You can mix styles, colors, and materials to match the stair and surrounding architecture. Your project team can help refine the final layout.
### Signature infill
Choose from premium cable and rod options for interior or exterior projects. All can be coastal rated. Stainless rods also work for curved applications.
Cover image
Stainless Cable
Marine-grade 316 stainless. 1x19 for superior durability.
### Signature mounting styles
Choose the mounting style that fits your stair, landing, or balcony.
Talk to your rep about which options work with your FLIGHT system.
{% columns %}
{% column width="33.33333333333333%" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
To compare mounting in more detail, see [What Cable Railing Post Mounting Styles Are There?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/cable-railing-post-mounting-styles-compared).
# Choose a FLIGHT Handrail or Top Cap
Compare metal handrails, wood handrails, and glass top caps for FLIGHT cable and glass railing systems.
Finish the railing with the handrail or top cap that fits your layout and material palette.
Need a broader comparison first? See [What Handrail Options Do I Have?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/handrail-options-for-stairs-decks-and-interiors) and [Handrail Reference](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/compare-handrail-profiles).
### Signature metal handrail
These profiles work for interior or exterior applications.
{% columns %}
{% column width="25%" %}
Quickslide
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="25%" %}
Beverage
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="25%" %}
Brushed Stainless
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
Round Stainless
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
[See all handrail options](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/handrail-options-for-stairs-decks-and-interiors)
### Signature wood handrail
Each profile comes in multiple wood species and finishes.
{% columns %}
{% column width="25%" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
[See all handrail options](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/handrail-options-for-stairs-decks-and-interiors)
### Glass top cap
Metal top caps work for interior or exterior projects. The 6008 wood top cap is for interior use only.
{% columns %}
{% column width="33.33333333333333%" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
# FLIGHT Design Upgrades and Add-Ons
Explore LED lighting, flooring coordination, alternative railing options, and other FLIGHT upgrades.
After you choose the stair, finishes, and railing, refine the details with upgrades and adjacent products.
### Flooring by Schafer Floors
Coordinate your flooring and treads for a cleaner transition from floor to stair and stair to landing.
Schafer premium engineered hardwood flooring uses three layers of domestic northern hardwood for strength and style.
### LED lighting
Add under-tread lighting or integrated handrail lighting for a warmer look and better visibility.
{% columns %}
{% column width="33.33333333333333%" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
*Full wire concealment and power supply connection cannot be guaranteed in every configuration. Customer must provide driver or controller for LED handrail.*
### Additional handrail options
Go beyond a cable handrail or glass top cap with wall-mounted, glass-mounted, and post-mounted handrail options.
{% columns %}
{% column width="33.33333333333333%" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### Express
Express is the premium DIY cable railing option. It ships fast and installs with simplified instructions.
### DriveTite
DriveTite and RodTite connect to wood posts with cable or rod infill. You can add metal line posts for mid-span support.
{% columns %}
{% column width="50%" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### Traditional railing
Choose horizontal bars, wood newels, or iron balusters for a more classic look.
{% columns %}
{% column width="33.33333333333333%" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
# How Can I Customize My Glass Railing?
Compare glass railing systems, glass panel types, post mounting styles, powder coat finishes, handrails, top caps, and add-ons for stairs, decks, balconies, and landings.
Customize glass railing for stairs, decks, balconies, and landings in eight steps. Start with the system. Then choose glass, mounting, finish, and top details. Finish with upgrades, quoting, and final approval.
### Follow the process
1. [Choose Your Glass System](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-glass-railing/choose-your-glass-system)
2. [Select Your Glass Panels](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-glass-railing/select-your-glass-panels)
3. [Choose Mounting Styles for Posts](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-glass-railing/choose-mounting-styles-for-posts)
4. [Choose a Powder Coat](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-glass-railing/choose-a-powder-coat)
5. [Choose a Handrail or Top Cap](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-glass-railing/choose-a-handrail-or-top-cap)
6. [Glass Design Upgrades and Add-Ons](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-glass-railing/glass-design-upgrades-and-add-ons)
7. [Request a Quote](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-glass-railing/request-a-quote)
8. [Work Through and Approve Final Design](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-glass-railing/work-through-and-approve-final-design)
### How to use this guide
* Start with hardware. The system shapes the look and install method.
* Choose the finish package together. Glass, mounting, powder coat, and top detail should work as one set.
* Finalize project details last. Add upgrades, request pricing, then review the final design package.
### Related topics
#### Learn the basics
* [What is Glass Railing?](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/what-is-glass-railing) — Compare the main system types and best-fit use cases.
* [What Handrail Options Do I Have?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/handrail-options-for-stairs-decks-and-interiors) — Review wall rails, top rails, and graspable profiles.
#### Price, install, and maintain
* [How much does Viewrail glass railing cost?](/guides/pricing/how-to-avoid-hidden-costs-with-glass-railing) — See the biggest price drivers before you request a quote.
* [How Do I Install a Glass Railing System?](/guides/install/how-do-i-install-a-glass-railing-system) — Understand installation requirements before you finalize mounting.
* [How Do I Maintain Glass Railing?](/guides/maintenance/how-do-i-maintain-glass-railing) — Plan for long-term cleaning and upkeep.
# Choose Your Glass System
Compare glass railing systems, including post, spigot, base rail, side-mount, and standoff options for stairs, decks, balconies, and landings.
Choose the glass railing system first. The system sets the sightlines, mounting method, stair compatibility, and overall price.
{% hint style="info" %}
This is the main system decision in the glass planning flow.
Choose the hardware first. Then move on to glass panels, top details, finish options, and quoting.
{% endhint %}
### How glass systems are organized
Viewrail glass systems fall into three groups:
* **Surface-mounted on the deck or floor:** Posts, Barrier Posts, Talon Spigots, Base Rail, Recessed Base Rail
* **Side-mounted to the fascia or structure edge:** Standoff Pins, Hidden Side Mount, side-mount Talon Spigots
* **Stair-specific:** Ascend Talons and Vedera
Start with two questions:
* Are you railing a **level run**, a **stair flight**, or both?
* Does the system need to mount to the **top surface** or the **side of the structure**?
### System-by-system comparison
#### Posts
{% columns %}
{% column width="35%" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="65%" %}
Posts are the most familiar glass railing layout. Metal posts anchor to the deck surface or fascia. Glass clips hold the panels in place.
Posts work on both level runs and stair flights. They are usually the easiest transition from a traditional railing layout.
**Best for:** Decks, balconies, and stairs where flexibility and budget matter.
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
#### Barrier Posts
{% columns %}
{% column width="35%" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="65%" %}
Barrier Posts use the same basic post-and-panel approach, but the glass extends above the posts. There is no top cap or handrail built into the guard.
This creates a cleaner sightline. It also makes the system best for locations where you need a guard, not a graspable stair handrail.
**Best for:** Deck edges, balconies, and select stair-adjacent guards where you want a minimalist look.
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
#### Base Rail
{% columns %}
{% column width="35%" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="65%" %}
Base Rail holds the glass in a continuous channel at the bottom. The glass rises from the floor with minimal visible hardware.
It works best on long level runs. It is a strong fit for decks, balconies, and interior overlooks where uninterrupted views matter.
**Best for:** Level runs where you want a clean, frameless look with a visible base shoe.
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
#### Recessed Base Rail
{% columns %}
{% column width="35%" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="65%" %}
Recessed Base Rail uses the same base-channel concept, but the channel installs below the finished surface. That hides the base almost completely.
It requires early planning. It is best when your structure can support a recessed install path.
**Best for:** Level runs where you want the glass to rise directly from the floor with no visible base hardware.
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
#### Talon Spigots
{% columns %}
{% column width="35%" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="65%" %}
Talon Spigots clamp the glass at the base with individual spigots instead of a continuous channel. They come in surface-mount and side-mount versions.
They create a light, floating look. Tilt-lock adjustment also makes final glass alignment easier during installation.
**Best for:** Level runs where you want minimal hardware without using a full base rail.
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
#### Ascend Talons
{% columns %}
{% column width="35%" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="65%" %}
Ascend Talons are the stair-specific version of Talon Spigots. They are designed for angled glass on stair flights.
They pair naturally with standard Talon Spigots on adjacent landings. That keeps the visual language consistent from stairs to level runs.
**Best for:** Stair flights where you want the spigot look and minimal hardware.
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
#### Standoff Pins
{% columns %}
{% column width="35%" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="65%" %}
Standoff Pins mount through pre-drilled glass and bolt to the side of the structure. That keeps the walking surface fully clear.
The glass floats slightly off the fascia or wall. The result is clean and architectural, with the pins as the only exposed hardware.
**Best for:** Level landings, balconies, and overlooks where side mounting makes more sense than top mounting.
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
#### Hidden Side Mount
{% columns %}
{% column width="35%" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="65%" %}
Hidden Side Mount conceals the support track behind the fascia and below the floor edge. Once installed, the system leaves almost no visible hardware.
It is one of the cleanest visual options in the lineup. It also requires the right structure and planning from the start.
**Best for:** Level runs where maximum glass exposure and zero visible floor hardware are the priority.
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
#### Vedera
{% columns %}
{% column width="35%" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="65%" %}
Vedera is the integrated glass railing system for FLIGHT floating stairs. Hardware mounts directly into the treads and disappears behind matching tread end slices.
It is purpose-built for FLIGHT. It cannot be adapted to other stair systems.
**Best for:** FLIGHT stair projects where you want a fully integrated, hardware-free look.
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### How to choose the right system
* Choose **Posts** when you need the most flexibility across stairs, landings, and decks.
* Choose **Base Rail** or **Hidden Side Mount** when you want the cleanest glass-first look.
* Choose **Talons** or **Standoff Pins** when you want minimal hardware with a more architectural feel.
* Choose **Vedera** only for FLIGHT floating stairs.
### Quick reference
| System | Mounts To | Level Runs | Stairs | Hardware Visibility |
| ------------------ | -------------------- | ---------- | --------------- | ------------------- |
| Posts | Surface or fascia | ✓ | ✓ | Moderate |
| Barrier Posts | Surface or fascia | ✓ | ✓ | Moderate |
| Base Rail | Surface | ✓ | — | Minimal |
| Recessed Base Rail | Flush in floor | ✓ | — | None |
| Talon Spigots | Surface or fascia | ✓ | — | Moderate |
| Ascend Talons | Surface on stairs | — | ✓ | Moderate |
| Standoff Pins | Fascia or wall | ✓ | — | Minimal |
| Hidden Side Mount | Fascia or subsurface | ✓ | — | None |
| Vedera | FLIGHT stair treads | — | ✓ (FLIGHT only) | None |
### Can you mix systems?
Yes. Many projects use one system on the stairs and another on the landing.
Common combinations include:
* **Ascend Talons** on stairs with **Talon Spigots** on level runs
* **Vedera** on FLIGHT stairs with **Base Rail** on landings
* **Hidden Side Mount** on overlooks with **Posts** in other areas where structure changes
Keep the glass spec and handrail finish consistent when you want one cohesive look.
### Code note
All Viewrail glass systems are engineered to meet applicable guard and handrail requirements when installed to project specs and local code.
Top rail requirements, allowable panel sizes, wind exposure limits, and glass type depend on the exact system and jurisdiction. Final approval always comes from the local building official.
For graspability and top-detail options, see [Choose a Handrail or Top Cap](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-glass-railing/choose-a-handrail-or-top-cap).
### What to do next
* Continue to [Select Your Glass Panels](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-glass-railing/select-your-glass-panels) to choose the right glass finish.
* If you choose a post system, continue to [Choose Mounting Styles for Posts](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-glass-railing/choose-mounting-styles-for-posts).
* Review [Choose a Handrail or Top Cap](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-glass-railing/choose-a-handrail-or-top-cap) to finish the top detail.
### Related topics
* [Select Your Glass Panels](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-glass-railing/select-your-glass-panels) — Match the system to the right glass finish.
* [Choose Mounting Styles for Posts](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-glass-railing/choose-mounting-styles-for-posts) — Narrow the best post mount for your structure.
* [What is Glass Railing?](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/what-is-glass-railing) — Review the main categories before you decide.
* [How much does Viewrail glass railing cost?](/guides/pricing/how-to-avoid-hidden-costs-with-glass-railing) — See how hardware choice affects price.
* [How Do I Install a Glass Railing System?](/guides/install/how-do-i-install-a-glass-railing-system) — Understand what installation path each system requires.
* [How Do I Maintain Glass Railing?](/guides/maintenance/how-do-i-maintain-glass-railing) — Plan for cleaning and long-term care.
# Select Your Glass Panels
Compare Starphire, Solar Gray, Solar Bronze, and Frosted glass panels for glass railing on stairs, decks, balconies, and landings.
Choose the glass panel finish that fits your view, privacy needs, and overall style. Panel color changes clarity, light, and how the railing reads against the home.
{% columns %}
{% column %}
### Starphire®
Low-iron, ultra-clear glass
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
### Solar Gray
Darkly tinted for a rich, modern look
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
### Solar Bronze
A dark amber tint that exudes luxury
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
### Frosted
Lets in light without sacrificing privacy
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### How to choose glass panel finishes
* Choose Starphire® for the clearest view and the lightest edge color.
* Choose Solar Gray or Solar Bronze for more tint and stronger visual contrast.
* Choose Frosted when privacy matters more than a fully open view.
### Related topics
* [Choose Your Glass System](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-glass-railing/choose-your-glass-system) — Match the panel style to the right hardware system.
* [Choose a Handrail or Top Cap](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-glass-railing/choose-a-handrail-or-top-cap) — Complete the look with the right top detail.
* [How Do I Maintain Glass Railing?](/guides/maintenance/how-do-i-maintain-glass-railing) — Learn how different finishes clean and perform over time.
* [Request a Quote](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-glass-railing/request-a-quote) — Send your project details when you are ready to price it.
# Choose Mounting Styles for Posts
Compare glass railing post mounting styles for decks, balconies, stairs, and concrete surfaces. Learn when to use top mount, side mount, core drill, and angled options.
Choose the right glass post mounting style for your deck, balcony, landing, or stairs. The mount affects structure, waterproofing, overhangs, and how much hardware you see.
### Compare glass post mounting styles
{% columns %}
{% column %}
### Standard Mount
Installed on top of level surfaces.
Includes foot cover.
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
### Side Mount
Installed to the fascia.
Does not affect waterproofing.
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
### Slim Side Mount
Installed to the fascia.
Uses a minimal bracket.
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
### Slim Side Mount Bump Out
Installed to the fascia.
Bumps out around overhangs.
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
### Special Application
Installed on solid concrete or stone.
Uses an oversized plate.
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
### Angled Foot Mount
Installed on top of an angled surface.
Includes foot cover.
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### Core Drill Mount
Installed into a pre-drilled hole in concrete surfaces.
### How to choose a post mount
* Use Standard Mount on level surfaces when top mounting is simple and clean.
* Use side-mount styles when you want to preserve deck space or avoid penetrating the walking surface.
* Use Special Application, Angled Foot Mount, or Core Drill Mount for concrete, stone, or sloped conditions.
### Related topics
* [Choose Your Glass System](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-glass-railing/choose-your-glass-system) — Confirm whether a post system is the right fit first.
* [Choose a Powder Coat](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-glass-railing/choose-a-powder-coat) — Match the mount style with the finish package.
* [How Do I Install a Glass Railing System?](/guides/install/how-do-i-install-a-glass-railing-system) — Review install requirements before you decide.
* [Request a Quote](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-glass-railing/request-a-quote) — Share your mounting surface and photos for accurate layout.
# Choose a Powder Coat
Compare powder coat colors for glass railing posts, metal handrails, and matching accessories.
Choose a powder coat finish for glass railing posts, metal handrails, and matching accessories. The finish sets the overall tone of the railing. Custom colors are also available.
### Standard powder coat colors
Talk to your rep if you want a custom finish for your quote.
{% columns %}
{% column width="25%" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### Narrow the finish direction
* Choose white, plaster, or stone tones for a lighter architectural look.
* Choose gray and black tones for the sharpest contrast against glass.
* Choose bronze, brass, gold, or color accents when you want the railing to stand out.
### Related topics
* [What Is Powder Coating? Viewrail's Process and Finish Options Explained](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/railing-system-deep-dives/what-is-powder-coating-viewrails-process-and-finish-options-explained) — Learn how powder coating performs indoors and outdoors.
* [Choose Mounting Styles for Posts](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-glass-railing/choose-mounting-styles-for-posts) — Apply your finish to the post style that fits the project.
* [Choose a Handrail or Top Cap](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-glass-railing/choose-a-handrail-or-top-cap) — Match the color with your rail profile.
* [Request a Quote](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-glass-railing/request-a-quote) — Ask about custom colors and finish availability.
# Choose a Handrail or Top Cap
Compare glass railing handrails and top caps, including metal and wood profiles for interior and exterior glass railing systems.
Choose a handrail or top cap based on the system, code needs, and finish style. Post systems usually pair with a handrail. Glass-only systems can use a top cap or no cap where code allows.
### Metal Styles
{% columns %}
{% column %}
### Standard Quick Slide
Interior/Exterior
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
### Beverage Quick Slide
Interior/Exterior
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
### 1″ x 2″ Steel
Interior/Exterior
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
### 2″ Round Steel
Interior/Exterior
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### Wood Styles
{% columns %}
{% column %}
### 5600 Series
Interior
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
### 6000 Series
Interior
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
### 6002 Series
Interior
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
### 6005 Series
Interior
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
### 6200 Series
Interior
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
### 6001 Ipe Series
Exterior
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
### 6007 Series
Exterior
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### Top Cap
For glass styles without posts, choose between aluminum and wood top caps. Or, go minimal with no top cap at all (where code allows).
{% columns %}
{% column %}
### Wood Top Cap
Multiple stain and species options
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
### Aluminum Top Cap
Multiple powder coat and finish options
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### How to choose the top detail
* Choose metal for coastal use, lower upkeep, and a slimmer profile.
* Choose wood for warmer interior projects or stained finish matching.
* Choose a top cap for glass-only systems when you want structure with a minimal look.
### Related topics
* [What Handrail Options Do I Have?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/handrail-options-for-stairs-decks-and-interiors) — Compare more handrail materials, profiles, and code basics.
* [Choose a Powder Coat](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-glass-railing/choose-a-powder-coat) — Coordinate metal rails and caps with the main finish.
* [Glass Design Upgrades and Add-Ons](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-glass-railing/glass-design-upgrades-and-add-ons) — Add integrated handrails, gates, and lighting.
* [Request a Quote](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-glass-railing/request-a-quote) — Include your preferred rail or cap profile in the quote.
# Glass Design Upgrades and Add-Ons
Explore glass railing upgrades and add-ons, including LED lighting, gates, and integrated handrail options.
Refine the final glass railing system with practical upgrades and code-driven add-ons. These details shape usability, nighttime visibility, and project compliance.
### LED lighting
Add LED strips to the handrail or top cap for better nighttime visibility and a more polished finished look.
### Gates
Add a matching glass gate for pools, decks, and controlled-access openings.
Common options include:
* Single-door or double-door layouts
* Self-closing hardware
* Keyed or magnetic latches
### Integrated handrail
Use an integrated graspable rail when the project needs added support or a more code-driven handrail solution.
{% columns %}
{% column width="45%" %}
Integrated Handrail
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="55%" %}
Integrated handrails keep the glass railing clean while adding a dedicated graspable rail for residential or commercial use.
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### When upgrades make sense
* Add lighting when the railing needs nighttime visibility or a stronger design feature.
* Add gates for pools, decks, pets, or controlled access points.
* Add an integrated handrail when the project needs a graspable rail without changing the clean glass look.
### Related topics
* [Choose a Handrail or Top Cap](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-glass-railing/choose-a-handrail-or-top-cap) — Compare the main rail and cap options first.
* [What Handrail Options Do I Have?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/handrail-options-for-stairs-decks-and-interiors) — Review broader handrail material and profile choices.
* [How Do I Maintain Glass Railing?](/guides/maintenance/how-do-i-maintain-glass-railing) — See how lighting, caps, and hardware fit into long-term upkeep.
* [Request a Quote](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-glass-railing/request-a-quote) — Include gates, lighting, and integrated rail details in your quote request.
# Request a Quote
Learn what to send when you request a glass railing quote, including measurements, photos, plans, and project details.
Request a glass railing quote once you know the system and main options. Clear measurements, photos, and plans speed up pricing and layout.
{% stepper %}
{% step %}
### Assess your site
Spend a few minutes collecting the basics:
* Length of each level run
* Length, number of steps, and angle of each stair run
* Mounting surface, such as wood, concrete, steel, or fascia
* Grade and terrain, such as elevation changes, slopes, or curb details
{% endstep %}
{% step %}
### Gather documentation
Send any materials that help define the project:
* Hand sketches
* Photos
* CAD files
* PDFs
* Blueprints
{% endstep %}
{% step %}
### Fill out the form
With measurements and documents in hand, submit your quote request.
You can still reach out if you only have an idea.
Fill out the form with as much info as you have. We’ll get back to you within one business day to walk through next steps.
{% endstep %}
{% endstepper %}
### Choose Viewrail Certified Installers
Decided on your railing style? Let our nationwide network of Viewrail Certified Installers handle the rest.
{% hint style="info" %}
From jobsite measurements to materials and professional installation, certified installers can manage the full process.
{% endhint %}
If you opt to DIY, you still get nationwide shipping, easy-to-follow installation instructions, and responsive customer service.
### Related topics
* [How much does Viewrail glass railing cost?](/guides/pricing/how-to-avoid-hidden-costs-with-glass-railing) — Review likely price drivers before you submit.
* [Work Through and Approve Final Design](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-glass-railing/work-through-and-approve-final-design) — See what happens after your quote is in progress.
* [How Do I Install a Glass Railing System?](/guides/install/how-do-i-install-a-glass-railing-system) — Decide early whether you plan to install it yourself.
# Work Through and Approve Final Design
Review layout, engineering, and finish details before approving your final glass railing design for fabrication.
Once your quote is in progress, the project moves from concept to confirmed layout. This is where you lock in dimensions, mounting, glass, and finish details before fabrication.
### What you review
* **Design confirmation** — a specialist reviews measurements, proposes layout, and confirms the main finish choices.
* **Engineering** — post spacing, mount type, and structural details are refined to fit the project.
* **Project files and proposal** — you receive labeled components, PDFs, 3D viewer links, freight details, and lead-time information.
### Before you sign off
* Verify dimensions, mount types, glass, and finish selections.
* Confirm any code-driven items, including handrail requirements.
* Double-check the ship-to address and installer details.
Changes after approval can add remake costs or extend lead time.
### After approval
Once you sign off, your glass railing moves into fabrication. The system then ships to your home or your installer for delivery and installation.
### Related topics
* [Request a Quote](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-glass-railing/request-a-quote) — Start the process with measurements, photos, and plans.
* [How much does Viewrail glass railing cost?](/guides/pricing/how-to-avoid-hidden-costs-with-glass-railing) — Understand how design decisions affect the proposal.
* [How Do I Install a Glass Railing System?](/guides/install/how-do-i-install-a-glass-railing-system) — Prepare for the install path before final approval.
# How Can I Customize My Cable Railing?
Compare cable railing systems, infill options, post mounting styles, powder coat finishes, handrails, and add-ons for decks, stairs, balconies, and landings.
Customize cable railing by choosing the system first. Then follow the path that fits your project.
{% hint style="info" %}
Start by choosing between **Express** and **Signature**.
**Express** uses one streamlined planning page with a standard option set. **Signature** uses the full customization process shown below.
If you are reusing wood posts, use [How do I Install DriveTite Cable Railing?](/guides/install/how-do-i-install-a-cable-or-rod-railing-system/how-do-i-install-drivetite-cable-railing).
{% endhint %}
### Follow the process
1. [Choose Your Cable System](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing/choose-your-cable-system)
* If you choose **Express**, continue to [Customize Your Express Cable Railing](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing/choose-your-cable-system/customize-your-express-cable-railing).
* If you choose **Signature**, continue through the full planning path below.
* If you are keeping wood posts, use [How do I Install DriveTite Cable Railing?](/guides/install/how-do-i-install-a-cable-or-rod-railing-system/how-do-i-install-drivetite-cable-railing).
2. [Choose Your Signature Infill](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing/choose-your-signature-infill)
3. [Choose Signature Mounting Styles for Posts](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing/choose-signature-mounting-styles-for-posts)
4. [Choose a Signature Powder Coat](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing/choose-a-signature-powder-coat)
5. [Choose a Signature Handrail](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing/choose-a-signature-handrail)
6. [Signature Cable Design Upgrades and Add-Ons](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing/signature-cable-design-upgrades-and-add-ons)
7. [Request a Signature Cable Quote](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing/request-a-signature-cable-quote)
8. [Work Through and Approve Your Signature Cable Design](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing/work-through-and-approve-your-signature-cable-design)
### How to use this guide
* Start with the system. That choice splits the process into Express or Signature.
* If you choose Express, use the dedicated Express planning page to confirm colors, posts, handrails, and limits.
* If you choose Signature, continue through infill, mounting, finish, handrail, and upgrades.
### Related topics
#### Learn the basics
* [What is Cable Railing?](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/what-is-cable-railing) — Compare the main system types and best-fit use cases.
* [What Handrail Options Do I Have?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/handrail-options-for-stairs-decks-and-interiors) — Review wall rails, top rails, and graspable profiles.
#### Price, install, and maintain
* [How much does Viewrail Cable Railing Cost?](/guides/pricing/how-much-does-viewrail-cable-railing-cost) — See the biggest price drivers before you request a quote.
* [How Do I Install a Cable Railing System?](/guides/install/how-do-i-install-a-cable-or-rod-railing-system) — Understand installation requirements before you finalize mounting.
* [How do I Install DriveTite Cable Railing?](/guides/install/how-do-i-install-a-cable-or-rod-railing-system/how-do-i-install-drivetite-cable-railing) — Follow the wood-post install path if you are reusing existing posts.
* [How Do I Maintain Cable Railing?](/guides/maintenance/how-do-i-maintain-cable-railing) — Plan for long-term cleaning and upkeep.
# Choose Your Cable System
Compare Express and Signature cable railing for lead time, customization, coastal use, and installation path.
Choose the cable railing system first. The system sets the design range, finish options, lead time, and install path.
{% hint style="info" %}
This is the decision point for the rest of the guide.
If you choose **Express**, continue to the dedicated Express planning page. If you choose **Signature**, continue through the full customization process in the next steps.
If you are keeping existing wood posts, use [How do I Install DriveTite Cable Railing?](/guides/install/how-do-i-install-a-cable-or-rod-railing-system/how-do-i-install-drivetite-cable-railing) instead.
{% endhint %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
.png?alt=media\&token=8ca7371f-dcab-4df5-893e-9e19a0911cda)
### Express
Pre-configured and in stock.
* Fast lead time
* DIY-friendly installation
* Black, white, or silver aluminum posts
* Best for straightforward projects
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
### Signature
Custom-engineered for your layout.
* More infill, post, and handrail options
* More powder coat and material choices
* Coastal-rated configurations available
* Best for custom or complex projects
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### How to choose the right system
* Choose Express when speed, simplicity, and DIY install matter most.
* Choose Signature when you want custom finishes, rod infill, or more mounting flexibility.
* Start with Signature for coastal projects or more complex stair and balcony layouts.
### What to do next
* If you choose **Express**, continue to [Customize Your Express Cable Railing](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing/choose-your-cable-system/customize-your-express-cable-railing) to confirm the standard option set.
* If you choose **Signature**, continue to [Choose Your Signature Infill](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing/choose-your-signature-infill) and work through the full process.
### Related topics
* [Customize Your Express Cable Railing](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing/choose-your-cable-system/customize-your-express-cable-railing) — Review Express colors, mounts, post types, handrails, and limits.
* [Express vs. Signature Cable Railing: Which One Is Right for Your Project?](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/railing-system-deep-dives/express-vs.-signature-cable-railing-which-one-is-right-for-your-project) — Get the full side-by-side comparison.
* [How do I Install DriveTite Cable Railing?](/guides/install/how-do-i-install-a-cable-or-rod-railing-system/how-do-i-install-drivetite-cable-railing) — Use this path if you are reusing wood posts.
* [What is Cable Railing?](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/what-is-cable-railing) — Review the main parts, layouts, and use cases.
* [How much does Viewrail Cable Railing Cost?](/guides/pricing/how-much-does-viewrail-cable-railing-cost) — See how system choice affects price.
* [Can I Install Cable Railing Myself?](broken://spaces/YiIQ32eyDEEMOXuUTd8u/pages/hfzS4NElJ6PyabWq4Kxt) — Decide which system fits your install path.
# Customize Your Express Cable Railing
Review Express cable railing colors, post types, mounting styles, handrails, cable, hardware, and upgrade limits before you order.
Express is Viewrail's in-stock, direct-ship cable railing line. It uses a standard option set, so you can move from planning to order faster.
{% hint style="info" %}
This page covers the full **Express** planning path.
If your project needs more flexibility, switch back to [Choose Your Cable System](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing/choose-your-cable-system) and continue with **Signature**.
{% endhint %}
### What you can customize on Express
Use this page to confirm:
* Finish color
* Mounting style and post types
* Handrail style and cable quantity
If those standard options fit your layout, Express is likely the right path.
#### Finish Colors
Express is available in three powder coat colors:
{% columns %}
{% column %}
**Black**
Clean contrast.
Works well with wood, concrete, and darker facades.
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
**Silver**
Light, modern finish.
Blends well with stainless details and cooler palettes.
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
**White**
Bright architectural finish.
Pairs well with light trim and painted exteriors.
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
All three finishes use Viewrail's Standard powder coat on the aluminum posts, handrail, and fittings. For non-coastal exterior applications, the finish carries a 1-year exterior warranty and up to a 5-year interior warranty.
Express is **not recommended within 5 miles of saltwater**. If your project is coastal, move to Signature.
#### Mounting Styles
Express is available in two mounting configurations:
{% columns %}
{% column %}
**Surface Mount**
Posts mount to the top surface of the structure.
Best when top mounting is simple and direct.
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
**Side Mount**
Posts mount to the fascia to keep the top surface clear.
Best when you want to preserve deck space and sightlines.
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
Both mounting styles are available in all three colors. Both work for level and angled runs.
#### Post Types
Express posts come pre-drilled and pre-loaded with all the hardware you need, no need to buy fittings separately. There are five post types across level and angled configurations:
**Level Run Posts**
{% columns %}
{% column %}
**Level End Post**
Used at the start or end of a level run.
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
**Level Line Post**
Placed between end posts to maintain spacing and strength.
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
**Level Corner Post**
Turns a 90° corner with a single post.
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
Posts should be no more than 4 feet apart, center to center.
**Angled (Stair) Run Posts**
{% columns %}
{% column width="50%" %}
**Angle End Post**
Used at the start or end of a stair run.
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="50%" %}
**Angle Line Post**
Placed between the end posts on a stair run.
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
Each post type is available in surface mount and side mount versions, in black, silver, and white.
#### Express limits to confirm early
Check these before you commit:
* Express handles angled-to-level transitions, but the angle and level posts will be different heights. If your project requires same-height posts at a stair-to-landing transition, that's a Signature+ feature.
* Corners on Express are 90° only. For non-right-angle corners, you'll need a Signature system.
#### Handrail Options
Express offers three handrail styles, all in black, silver, and white:
{% columns %}
{% column %}
**Standard Handrail**
Traditional aluminum top rail profile.
Available in 8.5-foot lengths for field cutting.
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
**Beverage Handrail**
Wider 1" × 4" flat-top profile.
Acts as a drink ledge on decks and balconies.
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
**Wall-Mounted Handrail**
Graspable rail mounted directly to the wall.
Useful when a post-supported top rail is not needed.
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
Available lengths:
* **Standard Handrail** — 8.5-foot lengths
* **Beverage Handrail** — 4-foot, 8-foot 6-inch, 12-foot 6-inch, and 16-foot 6-inch lengths
* **Wall-Mounted Handrail** — sized to fit the run layout
Each handrail style comes with end plugs for a clean, finished look. Handrail is purchased separately from posts. Buy enough linear footage to cover your level runs and stair runs, then add end plugs for each open termination point.
Express does **not** offer wood or stainless steel handrail options. Those are available through the Signature system.
#### Cable Infill
Express uses stainless steel cable as its only infill option. The cable is 316 marine-grade stainless steel in a 1×19 strand construction — 19 individual wires wound into a single cable.
{% columns %}
{% column width="40%" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="60%" %}
**Stainless steel cable**
Express uses one infill only.
That keeps the planning path simple and fast.
Choose Express when standard cable is the look you want.
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
Cable comes in 100-foot and 400-foot spools. To estimate how much you need:
1. Multiply your total linear footage by the number of holes per post
2. Multiply that result by 1.1 to account for cutting waste
*Example: 30 linear feet × 10 cable holes × 1.1 = 330 feet of cable needed*
Express does **not** support rod infill (Endurance or Onyx). Rod infill is only available through Signature.
#### Installation Hardware
Every Express post ships with all the fittings and mounting hardware it needs — swaged, hidden fittings that keep the look clean and minimal. You don't need to figure out which hardware pairs with which post or buy components separately.
You will need an **Express Installation Kit**, sold separately. It contains the specialized tools required for tensioning and finishing your cable, including items most people don't already own. Viewrail recommends adding it to your cart when you order your railing components.
#### What's Not Available on Express
To help set expectations clearly, here's what Express does **not** offer:
* Custom colors or finishes beyond black, silver, and white
* Stainless steel posts
* Wood or stainless steel handrail
* Rod infill (Endurance or Onyx)
* LED handrail
* Coastal-rated materials
* Same-height posts at angled-to-level transitions
* Non-90° corner posts
If any of these are important to your project, Viewrail's Signature or Signature+ systems are where you'll find them.
#### When to Upgrade to Signature
Express is the right fit when speed and simplicity matter most. Upgrade to Signature when the project needs more flexibility.
Choose Signature if you need:
* Coastal-ready materials
* Custom colors, stainless posts, or wood handrails
* Rod infill, non-90° corners, or more complex geometry
### What to do next
* Ready to buy faster? Use the Express builder with the options you confirmed here.
* Need more design freedom? Go back to [Choose Your Cable System](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing/choose-your-cable-system) and continue with Signature.
* Still comparing? Read [Express vs. Signature Cable Railing: Which One Is Right for Your Project?](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/railing-system-deep-dives/express-vs.-signature-cable-railing-which-one-is-right-for-your-project).
### Related topics
* [Choose Your Cable System](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing/choose-your-cable-system) — Confirm whether Express or Signature is the right starting point.
* [Express vs. Signature Cable Railing: Which One Is Right for Your Project?](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/railing-system-deep-dives/express-vs.-signature-cable-railing-which-one-is-right-for-your-project) — Compare speed, flexibility, and coastal use.
* [How much does Viewrail Cable Railing Cost?](/guides/pricing/how-much-does-viewrail-cable-railing-cost) — See how Express compares on price.
* [Can I Install Cable Railing Myself?](broken://spaces/YiIQ32eyDEEMOXuUTd8u/pages/hfzS4NElJ6PyabWq4Kxt) — Decide whether Express fits your install path.
# Choose Your Signature Infill
Compare stainless cable, stainless rod, and Onyx Rod for appearance, maintenance, coastal use, and curved runs.
Choose the infill next. The infill changes the line weight, maintenance routine, and whether the railing can follow curves.
{% hint style="info" %}
This step covers **Signature cable railing**. Express uses a smaller set of pre-configured options, so some choices shown here do not apply to Express.
If you choose Express, go to [Customize Your Express Cable Railing](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing/choose-your-cable-system/customize-your-express-cable-railing) to review the standard option set. If you choose Signature, continue through the full customization process.
{% endhint %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
### Stainless Cable
Premium cable infill.
Straight runs.
Can be coastal-rated.
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
### Stainless Rod
1/4″ stainless steel rod.
Straight or curved runs.
Always coastal-rated.
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
### Onyx Rod
1/4″ matte black rod.
Straight or curved runs.
Can be coastal-rated.
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### How to choose infill
* Choose cable for the lightest visual line and the classic modern look.
* Choose stainless rod for curved sections, lower long-term adjustment, and maximum coastal durability.
* Choose Onyx Rod when you want a darker, bolder line without giving up the open view.
### Related topics
* [Should I Buy Cable Or Rod Railing?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/cable-railing-vs.-rod-railing-which-one-is-right-for-your-project) — Compare installation, maintenance, and curved applications.
* [Choose Your Cable System](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing/choose-your-cable-system) — Confirm whether Express or Signature is the right starting point.
* [Why 2205 Stainless Steel Is the Gold Standard for Coastal Railing](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/railing-system-deep-dives/why-2205-stainless-steel-is-the-gold-standard-for-coastal-railing) — Understand when coastal-rated materials matter.
* [Request a Quote](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing/request-a-signature-cable-quote) — Share your preferred infill when you are ready to price the project.
# Choose Signature Mounting Styles for Posts
Compare cable railing post mounting styles for decks, balconies, stairs, and concrete surfaces.
Choose the right post mount for your deck, balcony, landing, or stair. The mount affects structure, waterproofing, overhangs, and how much hardware you see.
{% hint style="info" %}
This step covers **Signature cable railing**. Express uses a smaller set of pre-configured options, so some choices shown here do not apply to Express.
If you choose Express, go to [Customize Your Express Cable Railing](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing/choose-your-cable-system/customize-your-express-cable-railing) to review the standard option set. If you choose Signature, continue through the full customization process.
{% endhint %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
### Standard Mount
Installed on top of level surfaces.
Includes a foot cover.
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
### Standard Side Mount
Installed to the fascia.
Helps preserve the walking surface.
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
### Slim Side Mount
Installed to the fascia.
Uses a minimal bracket.
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
### Core Drill Mount
Installed into a pre-drilled hole in concrete.
Leaves no visible base plate.
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
### Angled Foot
Installed on top of an angled surface.
Helps keep the post plumb.
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
### Tread Side Mount
Installed to the side of an open-riser stair tread.
Keeps the tread surface clear.
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### How to choose a post mount
* Use Standard Mount on level surfaces when top mounting is simple and clean.
* Use side-mount styles when you want to preserve deck space or avoid penetrating the walking surface.
* Use Core Drill, Angled Foot, or Tread Side Mount for concrete, sloped, or stair-specific conditions.
### Related topics
* [What Cable Railing Post Mounting Styles Are There?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/cable-railing-post-mounting-styles-compared) — Review the full range of post options and specs.
* [Choose a Powder Coat](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing/choose-a-signature-powder-coat) — Match the mount style with the finish package.
* [How Do I Install a Cable Railing System?](/guides/install/how-do-i-install-a-cable-or-rod-railing-system) — Review install requirements before you decide.
* [Request a Quote](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing/request-a-signature-cable-quote) — Share your mounting surface and site photos for accurate layout.
# Choose a Signature Powder Coat
Compare powder coat colors for cable railing posts, metal handrails, and matching accessories.
Choose a powder coat finish for cable railing posts, metal handrails, gates, and matching accessories. Express is available in black, white, and silver. Signature offers the full powder coat palette, plus custom colors on request.
{% hint style="info" %}
This step covers **Signature cable railing**. Express uses a smaller set of pre-configured options, so some choices shown here do not apply to Express.
If you choose Express, go to [Customize Your Express Cable Railing](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing/choose-your-cable-system/customize-your-express-cable-railing) to review the standard option set. If you choose Signature, continue through the full customization process.
{% endhint %}
### Standard powder coat colors
Talk to your rep if you want a custom finish for your quote.
{% columns %}
{% column width="25%" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### Narrow the finish direction
* Choose white, plaster, or stone tones for a lighter architectural look.
* Choose gray and black tones for the sharpest contrast against wood, cable, or rod.
* Choose bronze, brass, gold, or color accents when you want the railing to stand out.
### Related topics
* [What Is Powder Coating? Viewrail's Process and Finish Options Explained](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/railing-system-deep-dives/what-is-powder-coating-viewrails-process-and-finish-options-explained) — Learn how powder coating performs indoors and outdoors.
* [Choose Mounting Styles for Posts](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing/choose-signature-mounting-styles-for-posts) — Apply your finish to the post style that fits the project.
* [Choose a Handrail](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing/choose-a-signature-handrail) — Match the color with your rail profile.
* [Request a Quote](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing/request-a-signature-cable-quote) — Ask about custom colors and finish availability.
# Choose a Signature Handrail
Compare cable railing handrails, including metal and wood profiles for interior and exterior projects.
Choose a handrail based on the environment, profile, and finish style. Metal works well outdoors. Wood warms up interior projects and stained spaces.
{% hint style="info" %}
This step covers **Signature cable railing**. Express uses a smaller set of pre-configured options, so some choices shown here do not apply to Express.
If you choose Express, go to [Customize Your Express Cable Railing](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing/choose-your-cable-system/customize-your-express-cable-railing) to review the standard option set. If you choose Signature, continue through the full customization process.
{% endhint %}
### Metal styles
{% columns %}
{% column %}
### Standard Quick Slide
Interior/Exterior
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
### Beverage Quick Slide
Interior/Exterior
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
### 1″ x 2″ Steel
Interior/Exterior
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
### 2″ Round Steel
Interior/Exterior
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### Wood styles
{% columns %}
{% column %}
### 5600 Series
Interior
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
### 6000 Series
Interior
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
### 6002 Series
Interior
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
### 6005 Series
Interior
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
### 6200 Series
Interior
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
### 6001 Ipe Series
Exterior
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
### 6007 Series
Exterior
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### How to choose the top detail
* Choose metal for outdoor use, lower upkeep, and a slimmer profile.
* Choose wood for warmer interior projects or stained finish matching.
* Match the handrail finish to the posts and infill so the system reads as one design.
### Related topics
* [What Handrail Options Do I Have?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/handrail-options-for-stairs-decks-and-interiors) — Compare more handrail materials, profiles, and code basics.
* [Choose a Powder Coat](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing/choose-a-signature-powder-coat) — Coordinate metal rails with the main finish.
* [Cable Design Upgrades and Add-Ons](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing/signature-cable-design-upgrades-and-add-ons) — Add lighting, gates, and secondary handrails.
* [Request a Quote](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing/request-a-signature-cable-quote) — Include your preferred handrail profile in the quote.
# Signature Cable Design Upgrades and Add-Ons
Explore cable railing upgrades and add-ons, including LED lighting, gates, and secondary handrails.
Refine the final cable railing system with practical upgrades and code-driven add-ons. These details shape usability, nighttime visibility, and project compliance.
{% hint style="info" %}
This step covers **Signature cable railing**. Express uses a smaller set of pre-configured options, so some choices shown here do not apply to Express.
If you choose Express, go to [Customize Your Express Cable Railing](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing/choose-your-cable-system/customize-your-express-cable-railing) to review the standard option set. If you choose Signature, continue through the full customization process.
{% endhint %}
### LED lighting
Add LED strips to the handrail for better nighttime visibility and a more polished finished look.
### Gates
Add a matching cable gate for decks, pets, pool-adjacent areas, and controlled-access openings.
Common options include:
* Single-door or double-door layouts
* Self-closing hardware
* Keyed or magnetic latches
### Secondary handrail
Use a second graspable rail when the project needs extra support or a more code-driven handrail solution.
{% columns %}
{% column width="45%" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="55%" %}
Secondary handrails add support for residential or commercial use without changing the main cable railing layout.
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### When upgrades make sense
* Add lighting when the railing needs nighttime visibility or a stronger design feature.
* Add gates for pets, pool-adjacent spaces, or controlled access points.
* Add a secondary handrail when the project needs a separate graspable rail.
### Related topics
* [Choose a Handrail](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing/choose-a-signature-handrail) — Compare the main handrail options first.
* [What Handrail Options Do I Have?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/handrail-options-for-stairs-decks-and-interiors) — Review broader handrail material and profile choices.
* [How Do I Maintain Cable Railing?](/guides/maintenance/how-do-i-maintain-cable-railing) — See how lighting, gates, and hardware fit into long-term upkeep.
* [Request a Quote](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing/request-a-signature-cable-quote) — Include gates, lighting, and handrail details in your quote request.
# Request a Signature Cable Quote
Learn what to send when you request a cable railing quote, including measurements, photos, plans, and project details.
Request a cable railing quote once you know the system and main options. Clear measurements, photos, and plans speed up pricing and layout.
{% hint style="info" %}
This step covers **Signature cable railing**. Express uses a smaller set of pre-configured options, so some choices shown here do not apply to Express.
If you choose Express, go to [Customize Your Express Cable Railing](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing/choose-your-cable-system/customize-your-express-cable-railing) to review the standard option set. If you choose Signature, continue through the full customization process.
{% endhint %}
{% stepper %}
{% step %}
### Assess your site
Spend a few minutes collecting the basics:
* Length of each level run
* Length, number of steps, and angle of each stair run
* Mounting surface, such as wood, concrete, steel, or fascia
* Grade and terrain, such as elevation changes, slopes, or curb details
{% endstep %}
{% step %}
### Gather documentation
Send any materials that help define the project:
* Hand sketches
* Photos
* CAD files
* PDFs
* Blueprints
{% endstep %}
{% step %}
### Fill out the form
With measurements and documents in hand, submit your quote request.
You can still reach out if you only have an idea.
Fill out the form with as much info as you have. We’ll get back to you within one business day to walk through next steps.
{% endstep %}
{% endstepper %}
### Choose Viewrail Certified Installers
Decided on your railing style? Let our nationwide network of Viewrail Certified Installers handle the rest.
{% hint style="info" %}
From jobsite measurements to materials and professional installation, certified installers can manage the full process.
{% endhint %}
If you opt to DIY, you still get nationwide shipping, easy-to-follow installation instructions, and responsive customer service.
### Related topics
* [How much does Viewrail Cable Railing Cost?](/guides/pricing/how-much-does-viewrail-cable-railing-cost) — Review likely price drivers before you submit.
* [Work Through and Approve Final Design](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing/work-through-and-approve-your-signature-cable-design) — See what happens after your quote is in progress.
* [How Do I Install a Cable Railing System?](/guides/install/how-do-i-install-a-cable-or-rod-railing-system) — Decide early whether you plan to install it yourself.
# Work Through and Approve Your Signature Cable Design
Review layout, engineering, and finish details before approving your final cable railing design for fabrication.
Once your quote is in progress, the project moves from concept to confirmed layout. This is where you lock in dimensions, mounting, infill, and finish details before fabrication.
{% hint style="info" %}
This step covers **Signature cable railing**. Express uses a smaller set of pre-configured options, so some choices shown here do not apply to Express.
If you choose Express, go to [Customize Your Express Cable Railing](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing/choose-your-cable-system/customize-your-express-cable-railing) to review the standard option set. If you choose Signature, continue through the full customization process.
{% endhint %}
### What you review
* **Design confirmation** — a specialist reviews measurements, proposes layout, and confirms the main finish choices.
* **Engineering** — post spacing, mount type, and structural details are refined to fit the project.
* **Project files and proposal** — you receive labeled components, PDFs, 3D viewer links, freight details, and lead-time information.
### Before you sign off
* Verify dimensions, mount types, infill, and finish selections.
* Confirm any code-driven items, including handrail requirements.
* Double-check the ship-to address and installer details.
Changes after approval can add remake costs or extend lead time.
### After approval
Once you sign off, your cable railing moves into fabrication. The system then ships to your home or your installer for delivery and installation.
### Related topics
* [Request a Quote](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing/request-a-signature-cable-quote) — Start the process with measurements, photos, and plans.
* [How much does Viewrail Cable Railing Cost?](/guides/pricing/how-much-does-viewrail-cable-railing-cost) — Understand how design decisions affect the proposal.
* [How Do I Install a Cable Railing System?](/guides/install/how-do-i-install-a-cable-or-rod-railing-system) — Prepare for the install path before final approval.
# Choose the Right Railing for Your Project
Compare railing types, post materials, mounting styles, and handrail options to narrow the right fit for stairs, decks, balconies, and interiors.
Use this guide when you are still comparing options. Start with the railing type. Then narrow posts, mounting, and handrails.
{% hint style="info" %}
Use this section to compare paths across products.
If you already know you want **cable railing**, **glass railing**, or a **FLIGHT staircase**, go straight to that product's planning guide.
{% endhint %}
### Follow the comparison path
1. [What Railing Should I Choose for My Stairs?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/what-railing-should-i-choose-for-my-stairs)
2. [Cable Railing vs. Rod Railing: Which One Is Right for Your Project?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/cable-railing-vs.-rod-railing-which-one-is-right-for-your-project)
3. [Wood vs Metal Railing Posts: Which Is Better for Cable Railing?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/wood-vs-metal-railing-posts-which-is-better-for-cable-railing)
4. [Cable Railing Post Mounting Styles Compared](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/cable-railing-post-mounting-styles-compared)
5. [Handrail Options for Stairs, Decks, and Interiors](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/handrail-options-for-stairs-decks-and-interiors)
6. [Compare Handrail Profiles](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/compare-handrail-profiles)
### How to use this guide
* Start broad. Choose between glass, cable, and rod first.
* Narrow the structure next. Posts and mounting affect both look and install path.
* Finalize the touchpoints last. Handrails shape comfort, code fit, and finish.
### Best starting points by project
#### For stair projects
* Start with [What Railing Should I Choose for My Stairs?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/what-railing-should-i-choose-for-my-stairs).
* Then compare [cable vs. rod](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/cable-railing-vs.-rod-railing-which-one-is-right-for-your-project) if you want a horizontal infill system.
#### For cable railing projects
* Start with [Cable Railing vs. Rod Railing: Which One Is Right for Your Project?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/cable-railing-vs.-rod-railing-which-one-is-right-for-your-project).
* Then compare [post materials](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/wood-vs-metal-railing-posts-which-is-better-for-cable-railing) and [mounting styles](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/cable-railing-post-mounting-styles-compared).
#### For handrail decisions
* Start with [Handrail Options for Stairs, Decks, and Interiors](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/handrail-options-for-stairs-decks-and-interiors).
* Use [Compare Handrail Profiles](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/compare-handrail-profiles) when you need profile shapes.
### Related planning guides
* [How Can I Customize My Cable Railing?](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing) — Move from comparison into system planning.
* [How Can I Customize My Glass Railing?](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-glass-railing) — Review system, glass, mounting, and finish choices.
* [How Can I Customize My FLIGHT Staircase?](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-flight-staircase) — Plan stair style, finishes, railing, and upgrades.
# What Railing Should I Choose for My Stairs?
Compare stair railing options including cable railing, rod railing, and glass railing. Learn which stair railing system fits interior stairs, floating stairs, and outdoor stair projects.
## Best stair railing options for modern stairs
Choosing stair railing comes down to four things. Sightlines. Maintenance. Budget. Customization.
The three main stair railing options are **cable railing**, **rod railing**, and **glass railing**. This guide compares each stair railing system for interior stairs, floating stairs, and outdoor stair projects.
Modern stair railing can pair with floating stairs, open risers, and contemporary interiors.
### At a glance
* Choose **cable stair railing** for a modern look and a lower entry price.
* Choose **rod stair railing** for easier upkeep and better coastal performance.
* Choose **glass stair railing** for the most open views and the cleanest look.
### Compare stair railing infill options
The infill is the material between posts. It defines the look of your staircase railing.
#### Cable stair railing
Cable railing uses horizontal stainless steel cable between posts. It is one of the most common modern stair railing systems.
Cable stair railing works well when you want an open look without moving to glass. It also fits both interior stair railing and many exterior stair railing projects.
**Best for:**
* Modern stair railing on a tighter budget
* DIY stair railing installs
* Straightforward indoor and outdoor stairs
Viewrail cable systems use **5/32-inch stainless steel cable**. They are engineered around common IRC and IBC stair railing requirements.
Cable stair railing keeps sightlines open while using slim horizontal stainless steel cable.
If you want a deeper overview, see [What is Cable Railing?](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/what-is-cable-railing).
#### Rod stair railing
Rod railing looks similar to cable railing. It uses solid stainless steel rods instead of woven cable wire.
That change matters. Rod stair railing gives you the same open feel with less maintenance and faster installation. It also performs better in coastal and harsh outdoor environments.
**Best for:**
* Modern stairs with less long-term upkeep
* Curved or radius staircase railing
* Coastal stair railing projects
Viewrail offers two rod infill options:
* **Onyx Rod** for bold black interior stair railing
* **Endurance Rod** for exterior and coastal stair railing in 2205 stainless steel
If you are comparing the two directly, see [Should I Buy Cable Or Rod Railing?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/cable-railing-vs.-rod-railing-which-one-is-right-for-your-project).
#### Glass stair railing
Glass railing is the most open stair railing option. It keeps views clear and lets the staircase stay visible.
Glass stair railing is a strong fit for floating stairs, premium interiors, and projects where light matters. It usually needs more planning and carries the highest price.
**Best for:**
* Floating stair railing
* Open-concept interior stairs
* High-end residential or commercial stairs
Viewrail stair glass options include:
* **Glass Posts** for a familiar post-and-panel layout
* **Ascend Talons** for angled stair runs with minimal hardware
* **Vedera** for integrated glass on FLIGHT floating stairs
Glass stair railing is a strong fit for floating stairs and open-concept spaces.
For a full system breakdown, see [What is Glass Railing?](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/what-is-glass-railing).
### Choose stair railing posts and materials
After you choose infill, choose the posts and handrail. These decisions affect durability, maintenance, and style.
#### Metal posts
Metal posts are the most common choice for modern stair railing. They stay slim, strong, and low maintenance.
**Aluminum** works well for most interior stairs and non-coastal exterior stairs. It is lighter and available in many powder coat finishes.
**Stainless steel** is the better option for coastal locations, harsh weather, and heavier-use projects. Viewrail uses **2205 stainless steel** where corrosion resistance matters most.
#### Wood posts
Wood posts give staircase railing a warmer look. They also let you pair modern cable or rod infill with a more traditional structure.
Viewrail's **DriveTite** system works with new or existing wood posts. Wood needs more maintenance outdoors, and cable may need re-tensioning over time.
If you are planning the graspable rail too, see [What Handrail Options Do I Have?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/handrail-options-for-stairs-decks-and-interiors).
### Choose the right stair railing buying path
For cable and rod stair railing, Viewrail offers two paths. **Express** is faster. **Signature** is more customizable.
#### Express stair railing
Express is the fastest path for a simple cable stair railing project. It ships quickly and is built for straightforward installs.
**Best for:**
* DIY stair railing
* Standard stair layouts
* Faster project timelines
Express includes aluminum posts, a metal handrail, cable, and hardware. It is not recommended within 10 miles of saltwater.
#### Signature stair railing
Signature is the custom path. It supports cable, rod, and broader finish options.
**Best for:**
* Custom stair railing layouts
* Premium finishes and handrails
* Coastal or complex projects
Signature gives you more post styles, more handrails, and more finish flexibility. It is the better fit for turns, custom lengths, and design-heavy staircases.
Signature Rods are perfect for bold, custom stair looks
### Stair railing code basics
Every stair railing project should be checked against local code. Your building department has final approval.
For common stair applications:
* **Handrail height** is typically **34 to 38 inches** above the stair nosing
* **Guard height** on stairs is typically at least **34 inches**
* **Infill openings** must prevent a **4-inch sphere** from passing through
* The stair triangle opening must prevent a **6-inch sphere** from passing through
Viewrail cable and rod systems are engineered to meet IRC and IBC requirements. Express and Signature are both evaluated under **ICC-ES Report ESR-4798**.
### Which stair railing should you choose?
Use this quick guide if you are narrowing options.
| If you want... | Choose... |
| ---------------------------------------------- | ---------------------------------------- |
| A modern stair railing with lower upfront cost | Cable railing |
| A cable-like look with less maintenance | Rod railing |
| The most open staircase railing | Glass railing |
| A fast DIY stair railing path | Express cable railing |
| A custom stair railing package | Signature railing |
| Better coastal durability | Rod railing or 2205 stainless components |
| A warm mixed-material look | Cable or rod with wood posts |
### Frequently asked questions
What is the best railing for indoor stairs?
The best indoor stair railing depends on your priorities. Cable railing balances cost and openness. Rod railing reduces upkeep. Glass railing gives you the cleanest look and the most light.
What stair railing works best outdoors?
For most outdoor stairs, aluminum or stainless cable railing works well. In coastal environments, rod railing is usually the better long-term choice.
Is glass or cable better for stairs?
Glass is better for maximum openness and premium design. Cable is better for easier installation and a lower price point. Both work well on modern stairs.
### Related topics
#### Compare railing systems
* [What is Cable Railing?](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/what-is-cable-railing) — Learn how cable railing works on stairs, decks, and balconies.
* [What is Glass Railing?](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/what-is-glass-railing) — Compare glass railing systems for stairs and landings.
* [Should I Buy Cable Or Rod Railing?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/cable-railing-vs.-rod-railing-which-one-is-right-for-your-project) — Compare maintenance, installation time, and coastal use.
#### Plan your stair project
* [What Handrail Options Do I Have?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/handrail-options-for-stairs-decks-and-interiors) — Choose the right handrail for your stairs.
* [How Can I Customize My Cable Railing?](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing) — Review cable railing options for stairs and landings.
* [How Can I Customize My Glass Railing?](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-glass-railing) — Explore glass systems, panels, and finishes.
Still deciding? Viewrail can help you match the right stair railing system to your layout, code needs, and design goals.
# Cable Railing vs. Rod Railing: Which One Is Right for Your Project?
Cable and rod railing both offer sleek stainless steel style, but they differ in installation time, corrosion resistance, and curved applications. Here's how to choose.
Both cable railing and rod railing bring a clean, modern look to decks, stairs, and balconies. They share a lot in common: slim stainless steel profiles, hidden hardware, and a contemporary aesthetic that works inside and out. But when you dig into the details, these two systems are meaningfully different.
{% columns %}
{% column %}
**Cable railing**
Uses woven stainless steel cable with the lightest visual line.
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
**Rod railing**
Uses solid stainless steel rod with a slightly bolder profile.
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
Here's what you need to know before you choose.
### How They Compare at a Glance
| | Rod Railing | Cable Railing |
| -------------------------- | --------------------------- | ------------------------- |
| **Infill diameter** | 1/4" | 5/32" |
| **Material** | 2205 Duplex Stainless Steel | 316L Stainless Steel |
| **Installation time** | \~30–40 min/post | \~1 hr/post |
| **Curved applications** | Yes (min. 8' radius) | No — runs straight only |
| **Re-tensioning required** | No | Periodically |
| **Maintenance** | Wipe down as needed | Regular cleaning required |
| **Hidden hardware** | Yes | Yes |
### Installation: Rod Wins on Speed
Cable railing installation is familiar to most contractors, but don't let its simple appearance fool you, it takes time. Because cable comes on spools, it naturally wants to curl back into a coil, which makes measuring and cutting tricky. You'll spend a surprising amount of time just working with the material itself. Plan on roughly **one hour per post** for cable.
Rod railing installs faster. The posts and handrails go in the same way as cable, so that part of the process is identical. The difference is in handling the infill. Rods ship straight, so measuring is easy. Cutting is clean and quick with an angle grinder and a thin cutting wheel. Expect around **30–40 minutes per post** for rod.
For a large project, that time difference adds up quickly.
### Corrosion Resistance: Rod Is the Stronger Choice Coastal
Both systems use stainless steel, but not the same alloy, which makes a big difference in harsh environments.
**Cable railing** uses **316L stainless steel**, which has been the industry standard for corrosion resistance in architectural railing for decades. It holds up well in most environments, but it has limits near saltwater.
**Rod railing** uses **2205 duplex stainless steel**, a material with a long track record in some of the world's most demanding environments, including deep-sea oil drilling infrastructure. The way the industry measures corrosion resistance is through a Pitting Resistance Equivalency Number (PREN). For an alloy to hold up in oceanside conditions, it needs to score at least 32. 2205 scores 34. 316L scores 25, well below that threshold.
If your project is near the coast or in another high-humidity, high-salt environment, rod railing is the more reliable long-term choice.
### Maintenance: Both Are Low-Effort, But Not Zero-Effort
Neither system requires much ongoing maintenance, but they're not identical.
**Cable railing** is made up of 19 individual wires twisted together into a single strand (called a 1×19 construction). That woven structure creates small gaps where salt, moisture, and debris can collect if the cable isn't cleaned regularly. Over time, built-up contaminants can accelerate corrosion and, in the worst cases, cause the individual wires to begin separating. Regular cleaning keeps this from becoming a problem.
**Rod railing** is a single, solid tube with a smooth, continuous surface. There are no gaps for contaminants to settle into. That said, you should still keep an eye on the points where rods pass through posts — debris can collect in those holes and cause staining over time.
For both systems, a microfiber cloth and mild soapy water is all you need for routine cleaning.
### Curved Applications: Only Rod Can Follow a Radius
If any part of your railing follows a curve, a rounded deck edge, a sweeping balcony, a spiral-adjacent staircase, this is one of the most important factors in your decision.
**Cable railing always runs in a straight line.** Once tensioned, cable travels directly from post to post. There's no way to create a true curve or radius with cable.
**Rod railing can be bent** to follow curves as tight as an 8-foot radius. If your project has any curved sections, rod is your only option between these two systems.
### Which One Should You Choose?
Both systems are excellent choices for modern, open-look railing. Here's a quick way to frame the decision:
* **Choose cable** if your project is in a standard (non-coastal) environment, your layout is all straight runs, and you're comfortable with the installation process.
* **Choose rod** if you're near the coast, have curved sections in your railing, want the fastest installation, or prefer a virtually maintenance-free infill that won't need re-tensioning.
Either way, both systems offer the clean sight lines and hidden hardware that define modern railing design.
### Related topics
#### Compare related railing options
* [What is Cable Railing?](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/what-is-cable-railing) — Review how cable systems work, where they fit, and what they cost.
* [What Railing Should I Choose for My Stairs?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/what-railing-should-i-choose-for-my-stairs) — Compare cable, rod, and glass for stair projects.
* [Choose Your Signature Infill](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing/choose-your-signature-infill) — Compare stainless cable, stainless rod, and Onyx Rod.
#### Plan for environment and upkeep
* [Why 2205 Stainless Steel Is the Gold Standard for Coastal Railing](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/railing-system-deep-dives/why-2205-stainless-steel-is-the-gold-standard-for-coastal-railing) — See why 2205 outperforms 316L near saltwater.
* [How Do I Maintain Cable Railing?](/guides/maintenance/how-do-i-maintain-cable-railing) — Learn cleaning and re-tensioning expectations for cable.
* [How Can I Customize My Cable Railing?](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing) — Explore post styles, finishes, and handrail options.
# Wood vs Metal Railing Posts: Which Is Better for Cable Railing?
Compare wood vs metal railing posts for cable railing. Learn the differences in cost, durability, maintenance, style, and installation for decks, stairs, and exterior projects.
When you're planning a cable railing project, one of the first decisions you'll face is post material: wood or metal? Both can work well, but the right choice depends on your budget, your design goals, and how much upkeep you're willing to do over the years.
Here's what you need to know to make the call.
If you are still comparing systems, start with [What is Cable Railing?](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/what-is-cable-railing).
If you are also weighing rod infill, compare [Should I Buy Cable Or Rod Railing?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/cable-railing-vs.-rod-railing-which-one-is-right-for-your-project).
### At a glance
* Wood posts cost less upfront and suit traditional or rustic designs.
* Metal posts last longer, require less maintenance, and pair naturally with modern aesthetics.
* For exterior and coastal projects, metal posts typically deliver better long-term value.
#### Cost Comparison
Wood posts are generally the more affordable starting point. They're easier to source locally, simpler to cut, and quicker to install, which keeps both material and labor costs down.
Metal posts cost more upfront. Aluminum and stainless steel require more fabrication and finishing, and that's reflected in the price. What you're trading is lower maintenance and replacement costs over time.
For a complete cable railing system (posts, handrail, cable, and hardware) you can expect to pay roughly **$60–$250 per linear foot**, depending on your infill type, post material, and mounting style. Here's how Viewrail's current pricing breaks down across the most common combinations:
| Price Per Linear Foot | Aluminum Posts | 304 Stainless Posts | 2205 Stainless Posts |
| --------------------- | -------------- | ------------------- | -------------------- |
| Express Cable | $60–$110 | — | — |
| Stainless Cable | $90–$155 | $120–$195 | $140–$215 |
| Stainless Rod | $115–$185 | $135–$210 | $165–$245 |
| Onyx Rod | $120–$190 | $150–$230 | — |
*Estimates as of February 2026, before shipping and taxes.*
Wood post systems (using Viewrail's DriveTite components with your own posts) sit at the lower end of that range and are generally the most budget-friendly entry point into cable railing.
For a broader pricing breakdown, see [How much does Viewrail Cable Railing Cost?](/guides/pricing/how-much-does-viewrail-cable-railing-cost).
### Durability and maintenance
**Wood Posts**
Wood can perform well as a cable railing post material, but it needs consistent attention. Exterior wood absorbs moisture, expands and contracts with seasonal temperature changes, and can eventually crack or rot if it's not properly sealed and maintained. Wood also flexes more than metal under load, which can cause cable tension to loosen over time, meaning more re-tensioning throughout the life of your system.
**Metal Posts**
Metal posts hold up better across the board. They resist weather, stay straighter over time, and maintain cable tension more consistently. That stability is important on decks, balconies, porches, and stairways.
If your project is near the ocean or another corrosive environment, metal is the clear winner. Stainless steel — particularly 2205 duplex stainless — is the most corrosion-resistant option available for coastal installations.
For a deeper coastal breakdown, see [Why 2205 Stainless Steel Is the Gold Standard for Coastal Railing](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/railing-system-deep-dives/why-2205-stainless-steel-is-the-gold-standard-for-coastal-railing). If upkeep is part of your decision, see [How Do I Maintain Cable Railing?](/guides/maintenance/how-do-i-maintain-cable-railing).
### Style and design
**Wood Posts**
Wood fits naturally in traditional, rustic, and transitional spaces. It adds warmth and natural texture, and pairs well with wood decking and wood stair treads. If your home already leans into natural wood elements, wood posts can tie a railing system into that aesthetic seamlessly.
**Metal Posts**
Metal posts are the go-to for modern and minimalist designs. Their slim profile minimizes visual bulk and helps preserve sightlines — which is one of the main reasons people choose cable railing in the first place. This makes them especially popular for deck railing, balcony railing, and interior stair railing where the view matters.
Metal posts come in two material options: aluminum and stainless steel. Both are durable and attractive. Aluminum is the more budget-friendly option; stainless steel is the better choice for the harshest outdoor environments.
If you also need to choose a top rail, compare [What Handrail Options Do I Have?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/handrail-options-for-stairs-decks-and-interiors).
#### Which Post Material Is Right for Your Project?
**Choose Wood Posts When:**
* You prefer a classic, warm, or rustic look
* You already have code-compliant wood posts in place and want to reuse them
* Lower upfront cost is the priority
**Choose Metal Posts When:**
* You want a modern, clean-lined railing system
* You want lower long-term maintenance
* Your project is exposed to heavy weather, rain, humidity, or salt air
* You want slim posts that preserve your view
For most exterior cable railing projects, metal posts offer the best combination of performance, longevity, and appearance. They stay straighter, maintain cable tension better, and require less upkeep year over year.
#### Installation Differences
**Wood posts** can make installation faster when you're working with an existing structure. If the posts are already code-compliant and properly blocked, you can drill the cable runs and install the fittings directly, no new posts needed. This is a common approach for deck remodels. Viewrail's DriveTite system is designed specifically for running 5/32" stainless steel cable through wood posts. For the full wood-post process, use [How do I Install DriveTite Cable Railing?](/guides/install/how-do-i-install-a-cable-or-rod-railing-system/how-do-i-install-drivetite-cable-railing).
**Metal posts** from Viewrail arrive pre-drilled to match your project layout, which keeps cable spacing consistent and removes a lot of guesswork from the installation process. For DIY installers especially, pre-drilled posts reduce layout errors and speed up the overall install.
If you are still choosing post bases, review [What Cable Railing Post Mounting Styles Are There?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/cable-railing-post-mounting-styles-compared). For deck-specific post placement, see [How to Install Railing Posts On Decks](broken://spaces/YiIQ32eyDEEMOXuUTd8u/pages/EUKrlPOh5yU2gDh4usML).
Both options are manageable for beginner and intermediate installers. The right choice depends on your existing structure and your finish goals.
### Related topics
#### Compare systems
* [What is Cable Railing?](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/what-is-cable-railing) — Start with the full system overview.
* [Should I Buy Cable Or Rod Railing?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/cable-railing-vs.-rod-railing-which-one-is-right-for-your-project) — Compare infill types, upkeep, and install time.
* [What Handrail Options Do I Have?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/handrail-options-for-stairs-decks-and-interiors) — Choose the right top rail or handrail material.
#### Choose posts and mounts
* [What Cable Railing Post Mounting Styles Are There?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/cable-railing-post-mounting-styles-compared) — Match your post base to your deck, stair, or balcony.
* [Why 2205 Stainless Steel Is the Gold Standard for Coastal Railing](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/railing-system-deep-dives/why-2205-stainless-steel-is-the-gold-standard-for-coastal-railing) — See when stainless grade matters most.
* [How to Install Railing Posts On Decks](broken://spaces/YiIQ32eyDEEMOXuUTd8u/pages/EUKrlPOh5yU2gDh4usML) — Plan blocking and post placement for deck projects.
#### Budget, install, and maintain
* [How much does Viewrail Cable Railing Cost?](/guides/pricing/how-much-does-viewrail-cable-railing-cost) — Review current price ranges by system and material.
* [Can I Install Cable Railing Myself?](broken://spaces/YiIQ32eyDEEMOXuUTd8u/pages/hfzS4NElJ6PyabWq4Kxt) — See whether a DIY install fits your project.
* [How do I Install DriveTite Cable Railing?](/guides/install/how-do-i-install-a-cable-or-rod-railing-system/how-do-i-install-drivetite-cable-railing) — See the install path for cable railing on wood posts.
* [How Do I Maintain Cable Railing?](/guides/maintenance/how-do-i-maintain-cable-railing) — Understand re-tensioning, cleaning, and routine checks.
***
[Contact our team](https://www.viewrail.com/contact/) at Viewrail for more information on wood vs. metal railing posts, cable railing materials, and project planning.
# Cable Railing Post Mounting Styles Compared
Compare cable railing post mounting styles for decks, stairs, balconies, and concrete surfaces. Learn when to use surface mount, side mount, core drill, tread mount, and more.
Cable railing post mounting styles affect appearance, structure, and installation. The right post mount helps preserve views, keep cables tight, and fit your deck, stair, balcony, or concrete project.
For cable railing, the best mounting style depends on your surface, waterproofing, blocking, and design goals. If you are still choosing between product lines, start with [Choose Your Cable System](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing/choose-your-cable-system).
### At a glance
* Use **surface mount posts** for most level deck railing and landing applications.
* Use **side mount or slim side mount posts** when you want a cleaner deck surface and better sightlines.
* Use **core drill, tread mount, or angled mounts** for concrete, open-riser stairs, and custom stair railing conditions.
{% columns %}
{% column width="58.33333333333333%" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="41.66666666666667%" %}
### Why your post choice matters
#### By taking the time to choose the right post style, you get:
**The right style**\
A slim side-mount can nearly disappear. A surface plate makes a stronger design statement.
**The right fit**\
Surface, fascia, and core-drill mounts each need different blocking or substrate prep.
**The right material and finish**\
Different environments need different materials and finishes. Powder-coat or 2205 stainless handles salt spray, rain, and freeze-thaw well.
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### How to choose the right cable railing mounting style
Start with the surface you are mounting into. Then look at deck clearance, waterproofing, and how visible you want the hardware to be.
In most projects:
* **Deck railing** usually works best with surface mount or side mount posts.
* **Stair railing** often needs angle surface mount, angled foot, or tread-mounted posts.
* **Balcony railing** often benefits from side mount posts to keep the walking surface clear.
* **Concrete or pool deck railing** often uses core drill or special application surface mounts.
|
| ----------- | ---------------------- | ----------------------------------------- |
| Top | Flat or Angled | Universal |
| Material | Aluminum | Aluminum or Stainless Steel |
| Post Colors | Black, Silver or White | Multiple color options |
| Handrail | Black, Silver or White | Multiple options including wood and metal |
| Infill | Stainless steel cable | Cable, Endurance Rod, or Onyx Rod |
### Express cable railing post mounting styles
{% columns %}
{% column %}
#### Surface Mount
Surface mount posts are sturdy and simple. They work well for most wooden decks, landings, and level cable railing runs.
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
#### Slim Side Mount
Installed along the deck fascia, Express slim side mount posts keep the deck surface clear and open up the view.
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
#### Angle Surface Mount
This is a strong stair railing option. It helps you match deck railing and stair railing with one cohesive look.
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### Signature cable railing post mounting styles
{% columns %}
{% column %}
#### Standard Surface Mount
Our most common post. It works best on a level surface when you have solid blocking under a deck board.
Benefits: Fast install, hidden fasteners with a trim skirt, and strong performance on flat wood surfaces.
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
#### Standard Side Mount
This mount attaches to the fascia so your deck surface stays clean. It also avoids penetrations through waterproofing. Mounts 0.375" below the surface.
Benefits: Clean deck boards and a strong fit for second-story balconies.
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
#### Slim Side Mount
This minimalist fascia bracket is an even sleeker side mount option. It mounts 0.750" below the surface.
Benefits: Narrow 2" profile, minimal visual impact, and clean modern sightlines.
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
#### Slim Side-Mount Bump-Out
When flooring or stair nosing overhangs are in the way, this mount attaches to the fascia and bumps out around the overhang.
Benefits: Helps avoid awkward blocking when the fascia sits back under a bullnose.
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
#### Angled Foot
Custom-made to match a custom knee-wall and preserve tread space on stair railing projects.
Benefits: Matches non-standard slopes without field shimming and keeps the post plumb.
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
#### Core Drill
Core drill posts mount into a pre-drilled hole in concrete so only the post shows and no base plate stays visible.
Benefits: No surface hardware and a clean fit for pool decks, patios, and high-end terraces.
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
{% columns %}
{% column %}
#### Special Application Surface
An oversized plate for solid concrete or stone surfaces.
Benefits: Spreads load on brittle materials and ships with wedge anchors for code compliance.
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
#### Tread Side Mount
Designed for open-riser staircases, this post bolts to the side of a FLIGHT tread.
Benefits: Keeps the tread surface clear, preserves the floating stair look, and aligns well with FLIGHT stairs.
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
#### Tread Inset Mount
This is the most concealed stair mount. The plate sits in a side pocket with no visible hardware.
Benefits: Flush finish, hidden hardware, and a clean fit for ultra-minimal interiors.
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### Best post mounts by project type
If you are comparing cable railing mounting styles, these are the most common fits:
* **Wood deck railing:** surface mount posts or slim side mount posts
* **Second-story deck or balcony railing:** standard side mount or slim side mount posts
* **Open-riser stair railing:** tread side mount or tread inset mount posts
* **Concrete deck, patio, or pool surround:** core drill or special application surface posts
The right option depends on the structure below the finish surface. If you are still planning post spacing and layout, see [How Can I Customize my Cable Railing?](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing).
***
### Installation guides and code compliance
Installation Guides
Start with [How Do I Install a Cable Railing System?](/guides/install/how-do-i-install-a-cable-or-rod-railing-system). If you are deciding whether to handle it yourself, see [Can I Install Cable Railing Myself?](broken://spaces/YiIQ32eyDEEMOXuUTd8u/pages/hfzS4NElJ6PyabWq4Kxt).
Code Compliance
Signature and Express systems are evaluated under [ICC-ES Report ESR-4798](https://icc-es.org/wp-content/uploads/report-directory/ESR-4798.pdf) and meet [IRC R312](https://codes.iccsafe.org/s/IRC2021P3/part-iii-building-planning-and-construction/IRC2021P3-Pt03-Ch03-SecR312) guard-load requirements.
### Download Signature spec sheets
Signature Post Spec Sheets (Downloadable PDF's)
* [Standard Mount](https://www.viewrail.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/277026-STANDARD-FOOT-SS-8.29.19.pdf)
* [Standard Side Mount (Aluminum)](https://www.viewrail.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Aluminum-Standard-Side-Mount-Complete-Assembly.pdf)
* [Standard Side Mount (Stainless Steel)](https://www.viewrail.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/315683-304SS-Side-Mount-Plate-1.pdf)
* [Slim Side Mount (Stainless Steel)](https://www.viewrail.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/263655-304SS-Slim-Side-Mount-Plate.pdf)
* [Slim Side-Mount Bump-Out](https://www.viewrail.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Bump-Out-Plate.pdf)
* [Angled Foot](https://www.viewrail.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Angle-Foot-Alum-SS.pdf)
* [Angled Foot (Narrow)](https://www.viewrail.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Narrow-Angle-Foot-Alum-SS.pdf)
* [Special Application Surface](https://www.viewrail.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Special-App-Foot.pdf)
* [Core Drill](https://www.viewrail.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/04/Core-Drill-Post-Installation-Diagram.pdf)
### Related topics
* [How Can I Customize my Cable Railing?](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing)
* [What is Cable Railing?](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/what-is-cable-railing)
* [How Do I Install a Cable Railing System?](/guides/install/how-do-i-install-a-cable-or-rod-railing-system)
# Handrail Options for Stairs, Decks, and Interiors
Compare stainless steel, aluminum, and wood handrail options, profiles, and code requirements.
Choosing a handrail may sound simple, but once you start digging into materials, profiles, mounting styles, and code requirements, there's more to it than you might expect. This guide walks you through the main options so you can make a confident decision for your project.
If you are still choosing the full railing system, start with [What Railing Should I Choose for My Stairs?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/what-railing-should-i-choose-for-my-stairs).
#### Handrail vs. Guardrail: Know the Difference
Before diving in, it helps to understand a distinction that trips people up all the time: handrails and guardrails are not the same thing.
A **guardrail** (sometimes just called "railing") is the barrier system around your deck, balcony, or open stair. Its job is to prevent a fall off the edge of a structure.
A **handrail** is what you actually grab while going up or down stairs. It runs along the incline of a stairway and provides grip and stability. Handrails can be mounted to posts as part of a full railing system, or they can attach directly to a wall using brackets, both are valid options depending on your layout and style.
Getting clear on this distinction matters early because the two components have separate code requirements.
### Common handrail materials at a glance
{% columns %}
{% column %}
#### Stainless steel
Strong, clean, and ready for interior or exterior use.
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
#### Aluminum
Lightweight and ideal when powder coat color matters.
{% endcolumn %}
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#### Wood
Warm, customizable, and best for interior design flexibility.
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### Handrail materials
The material you choose affects durability, maintenance, appearance, and cost. The main options are stainless steel, aluminum, and wood.
**Stainless Steel**
Stainless steel handrail is a strong, low-maintenance option that works well indoors and outdoors. Viewrail offers two grades:
* **304 Stainless Steel** — suitable for interior use or exterior applications at least 5 miles from saltwater
* **2205 Stainless Steel** — a marine-grade alloy with a PREN score of 34–35, which exceeds the 32+ threshold needed for full corrosion resistance in coastal and saltwater environments
If you're building near the coast, 2205 is the right call. It's the same grade used on deep-sea oil rigs and marine infrastructure precisely because it holds up where other steels fail.
For a deeper breakdown of coastal performance, see [Why 2205 Stainless Steel Is the Gold Standard for Coastal Railing](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/railing-system-deep-dives/why-2205-stainless-steel-is-the-gold-standard-for-coastal-railing).
Stainless steel handrail is available in a 1" × 2" rectangular profile and can be finished in a brushed stainless look or powder coated. Round profiles (1.5" and 2" diameter) in 316 stainless are also available for non-coastal use.
**Aluminum**
Aluminum resists rust and corrosion and takes a powder coat finish beautifully, better than stainless steel, in fact, because the softer metal creates a surface that bonds very well with powder coat. It's a smart choice for projects where you want a specific color finish.
Aluminum handrail is a solid option for interior and exterior use in non-coastal environments. It's not recommended for locations close to saltwater.
Viewrail's aluminum handrail comes in a 1" × 2" profile designed to sit flush on top of cable railing posts or attach to a wall-mount bracket.
If finish is a major part of your decision, compare [Choose a Signature Powder Coat](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing/choose-a-signature-powder-coat) and [Choose a Powder Coat](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-glass-railing/choose-a-powder-coat).
**Wood**
Wood handrail brings warmth and design flexibility that metal can't match. It works well in traditional, transitional, and contemporary homes alike, and it's especially useful when you need to navigate tight corners indoors as wood can be cut and joined more easily than metal.
The trade-off is maintenance. Wood requires more upkeep over time than metal, especially in exterior settings.
See the [wood stair tread and handrail maintenance guide](/guides/maintenance/how-do-i-maintain-wood-stair-treads-and-handrails) for cleaning, humidity, and resealing guidance.
Viewrail offers wood handrail in multiple species — including Red Oak, Hard Maple, White Oak, Hickory, Walnut, and Ash — with over 50 stain options. For exterior applications, Viewrail's **Endurance Series** wood is thermally modified (without chemicals) to resist moisture, rot, and mildew. It's available for non-coastal, exterior use and is rated for level runs on deck railing. Most other wood handrail profiles are designed for interior use only.
If you want to compare actual profile shapes, jump to [Compare Handrail Profiles](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/compare-handrail-profiles).
#### Handrail Profiles
The profile is the cross-section shape you see and grab. It affects the look, feel, and code fit of the rail.
The fastest way to compare shapes is [Compare Handrail Profiles](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/compare-handrail-profiles). Use this summary to narrow the field first.
**Common metal profiles**
{% columns %}
{% column %}
#### Beverage
Wide 1" × 4" profile for a broader top rail.
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
#### 1" × 2" Steel
Slim standard profile for Signature and Express posts.
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
#### 2" Round Steel
Softer round profile for modern interiors and exteriors.
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
* **Beverage** — 1" × 4" profile for interior or exterior use. Available in aluminum, 304 stainless steel, or 2205 stainless steel. Best when you want a wide top rail.
* **1" × 2" Steel** — the standard slim metal profile for cable and rod railing. Available in aluminum, 304 stainless steel, or 2205 stainless steel for interior or exterior use.
* **2" Round Steel** — available in 1.5" or 2" round 316 stainless steel. Best for a softer profile. Use it in non-coastal interior or exterior settings.
**Common wood profiles**
{% columns %}
{% column %}
#### 6200
Slim rectangular profile for clean interior runs.
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
#### 6000 Mission
Flat-top profile with a broader furniture feel.
{% endcolumn %}
{% column %}
#### 6002 Solid
The 6000 look in a solid, no-glue-joint build.
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
Here are the main wood profiles to compare:
* **6084** — graspable interior profile with an inward finger recess. A strong fit when code compliance drives the choice.
* **5600 Series** — shaped interior profile with a warmer, more traditional grip.
* **6000 Mission** — rectangular interior profile with a flat top. It may not count as graspable in many jurisdictions.
* **6002 Solid** — solid-wood version of the 6000 shape. Best when you want the same look with no glue joints.
* **6004 Graspable** — bold interior profile with two finger slots. Often used where a dedicated graspable rail is needed.
* **6005 Series** — 4" wide interior beverage rail profile. Useful when you want a broader top surface.
* **6200 Series** — slim rectangular interior profile that fits many modern spaces and many residential graspability needs.
* **6001 Ipe Series** — simple rectangular Ipe profile for exterior or interior projects.
* **6007 Series** — broad top rail with solid construction. Endurance versions are available for exterior use.
For a full visual comparison, including 5600, 6005, 6007, 6001 Ipe, and glass cap profiles, see [Compare Handrail Profiles](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/compare-handrail-profiles).
#### Mounting Options: Top Rail vs. Wall-Mounted
How your handrail mounts depends on your setup:
* **Top rail handrail** sits on top of railing posts and is part of a full railing system. This is the most common configuration for open stairs, decks, and balconies.
* **Wall-mounted handrail** attaches directly to the wall via brackets. This is ideal for closed stairways — hallways, basements, and interior stairs along a wall — where posts aren't part of the design.
Viewrail offers stainless steel wall-mount brackets compatible with their metal handrail. If you're mounting to concrete rather than wood framing, you'll need to source your own concrete anchors, but customers have done this successfully with standard handrail brackets.
If your handrail will sit on cable posts, compare [Cable Railing Post Mounting Styles Compared](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/cable-railing-post-mounting-styles-compared) before you finalize the layout.
#### Handrail Code Requirements
Handrail is a required safety feature in most residential and commercial stairway applications. Here's what you need to know at a high level:
**Residential (IRC):**
* Handrails are required on at least one side of any stair with four or more risers
* Height must be between 34" and 38", measured vertically from the stair nosing
* Handrails must run continuously for the full length of the flight
* Circular handrails must be 1¼" – 2" in diameter; non-circular profiles must have a perimeter between 4" and 6¼" with a maximum cross-section of 2¼"
* There must be at least 1½" of clearance between the handrail and any wall
**Commercial (IBC / ADA):**
* More stringent requirements apply in commercial settings
* Graspability requirements are stricter, and handrails are typically required on both sides of a stair
* Consult ADA Standards for Accessible Design for specific dimensions
Keep in mind that guardrail height is a separate requirement from handrail height. Residential guardrails must be at least 36" above the walking surface per the IRC, while commercial guardrails typically require 42".
Local jurisdictions can adopt their own amendments to the IRC or IBC, so always check with your local building department before finalizing your design.
If you are choosing both the guard and the handrail together, see [What Railing Should I Choose for My Stairs?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/what-railing-should-i-choose-for-my-stairs).
#### How to Choose the Right Handrail
Use this quick reference to narrow your options:
* **Coastal location** → 2205 stainless steel is the right choice for metal handrail; aluminum works for non-coastal outdoor use
* **Interior stairs with tight corners** → wood handrail offers the most flexibility for cuts and transitions
* **Code-required graspability** → look for profiles like the 6200, 6084, or 6004 specifically designed to meet graspability requirements
* **Exterior deck (non-coastal)** → Endurance Series wood or aluminum handrail both work well
* **Wall-only installation** → wall-mount brackets with a 1" × 2" metal handrail or a round metal handrail keep things clean and minimal
If you're not sure which option fits your project, Viewrail's design team can help you work through the details.
### Related topics
#### Plan your handrail
* [Compare Handrail Profiles](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/compare-handrail-profiles) — Compare common handrail profile shapes.
* [Why 2205 Stainless Steel Is the Gold Standard for Coastal Railing](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/railing-system-deep-dives/why-2205-stainless-steel-is-the-gold-standard-for-coastal-railing) — Go deeper on coastal material selection.
* [What Railing Should I Choose for My Stairs?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/what-railing-should-i-choose-for-my-stairs) — Match your handrail to the right stair railing system.
* [How Can I Customize My FLIGHT Staircase?](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-flight-staircase) — Review stair, railing, and top cap options together.
#### Choose by system
* [Choose a Signature Handrail](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-cable-railing/choose-a-signature-handrail) — See handrail options for cable railing projects.
* [Choose a Handrail or Top Cap](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-glass-railing/choose-a-handrail-or-top-cap) — Compare handrails and top caps for glass railing.
#### Compare railing systems
* [What is Cable Railing?](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/what-is-cable-railing) — Learn how cable railing systems use top rails and handrails.
* [What is Glass Railing?](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/what-is-glass-railing) — Compare glass guards, top rails, and separate handrails.
* [Cable Railing Post Mounting Styles Compared](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/cable-railing-post-mounting-styles-compared) — See which post styles support your handrail layout.
#### Next steps
* [How Do I Install a Cable Railing System?](/guides/install/how-do-i-install-a-cable-or-rod-railing-system) — Review tools, post layout, and handrail attachment.
* [How to Install Railing Posts On Decks](broken://spaces/YiIQ32eyDEEMOXuUTd8u/pages/EUKrlPOh5yU2gDh4usML) — Plan post placement before you attach the handrail.
[Contact our team](https://www.viewrail.com/contact/) for help choosing the right handrail material, profile, or mounting style.
# Compare Handrail Profiles
Use this page to compare handrail profiles fast. Each section shows where the profile works, what makes it distinct, and the photos available for that option.
### Metal handrails
#### Beverage
* **Use:** Interior or exterior
* **Profile:** 1" × 4"
* **Materials:** Aluminum, 304 stainless steel, or 2205 stainless steel
* **Best for:** A wide top rail with a clean metal look
This profile fits Signature and Express post lines. The 304 and 2205 stainless options are rated for coastal locations.
{% columns %}
{% column width="33.333333333333336%" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="33.333333333333336%" %}
Beverage Handrail with End Cap
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="33.333333333333336%" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
#### 1″ × 2″ Steel
* **Use:** Interior or exterior
* **Profile:** 1" × 2"
* **Materials:** Aluminum, 304 stainless steel, or 2205 stainless steel
* **Best for:** A slim metal top rail on Signature or Express posts
This profile ships with both ends open. Add an [end plug](https://shop.viewrail.com/1x2-handrail-end-caps/p/149651/) or cover for a finished look. The 304 and 2205 stainless options are rated for coastal locations.
{% columns %}
{% column width="33.333333333333336%" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="33.333333333333336%" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="33.333333333333336%" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
#### 2″ Round Steel
* **Use:** Interior or exterior, non-coastal
* **Profile:** 1.5" or 2" round
* **Material:** 316 stainless steel
* **Best for:** A softer profile on modern metal railing
This round handrail is available in brushed stainless or powder coat. You can order finished ends, connect long sections, or finish ends on site.
{% columns %}
{% column width="33.333333333333336%" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="33.333333333333336%" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="33.333333333333336%" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
### Wood handrails
#### 6084 Handrail
* **Use:** Interior
* **Graspability:** Graspable
* **Species:** All wood species except Ipe and Endurance
* **Best for:** Projects that need a code-focused graspable profile
The 6084 has a wide top and an inward finger recess. It pairs well with metal railing posts and keeps a clean, angular look.
{% columns %}
{% column width="33.333333333333336%" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% column width="33.333333333333336%" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
#### 5600 Series
* **Use:** Interior
* **Profile:** Shaped
* **Construction:** Two solid hardwood pieces, face-glued together
* **Best for:** A warmer, more traditional grip shape
The 5600 has a flat bottom and gently rounded top. It feels substantial in hand without looking bulky. It works well with balusters, cable, rod, and wall-mounted layouts.
{% columns %}
{% column width="33.333333333333336%" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
#### 6000 Series
* **Use:** Interior only
* **Graspability:** Not graspable
* **Species:** All wood species except Ipe and Endurance
* **Size:** 2-3/4" wide × 1-5/8" tall
The 6000 Mission Handrail is a timeless rectangular profile. It works with modern railing systems, wrought iron balusters, and square-top wood balusters.
{% columns %}
{% column width="33.333333333333336%" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
#### 6002 Series
* **Use:** Interior
* **Construction:** Solid wood, no glue joints
* **Size:** 2-3/4" wide × 1-5/8" tall
* **Best for:** Projects that want the 6000 shape in one solid piece
The 6002 Solid Handrail keeps the same clean rectangular look as the 6000. It is milled from premium 2" lumber for added structural consistency.
{% columns %}
{% column width="33.333333333333336%" %}
{% endcolumn %}
{% endcolumns %}
#### 6004 Graspable
* **Use:** Interior
* **Graspability:** Graspable
* **Species:** All wood species except Ipe and Endurance
* **Size:** 2-1/2" × 2 7/16"
The 6004 is built for code compliance and a bold modern look. Two finger slots create a secure grip, which makes this a strong fit for commercial projects and any stair that needs a dedicated graspable profile.
It works with cable, rod, and glass systems using Universal Top or Flat Top mounting. It can also be wall-mounted with standard handrail brackets.
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#### 6005 Series
* **Use:** Exterior or Interior
* **Species:** All wood species except Ipe
* **Profile:** Beverage rail
* **Width:** 4"
* **Best for:** A flat top that can hold a drink or support an elbow
The 6005 is a wide, multi-use handrail that adds function as well as finish. It is a strong fit for entertaining spaces and interior railing where a broader top feels intentional.
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#### 6200 Series
* **Use:** Exterior or Interior
* **Species:** All wood species
* **Profile:** Slim rectangular
* **Best for:** Modern interior cable, rod, or glass railing
The 6200 keeps a simple profile that works across contemporary, mission, and shaker spaces. It is one of the cleanest ways to keep the top rail minimal.
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#### 6001 Ipe Series
* **Use:** Exterior or interior
* **Wood:** Ipe
* **Size:** 1.5" × 3.5"
* **Lengths:** 3' to 15'
The 6001 Ipe profile uses a simple rectangular shape that works well with cable and rod railing. Ipe handles weather well, but an exterior-rated sealant is still recommended for the best long-term performance.
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#### 6007 Series
* **Use:** Interior, with exterior Endurance option
* **Profile:** Beverage rail
* **Construction:** Solid, no glue joints
* **Best for:** A broad top rail with a more structural wood build
The 6007 is the solid-construction version of the 6005 Beverage profile. It has a wide, flat top that feels substantial and works well with cable, rod, and glass systems.
The Endurance Series 6007 is thermally modified for exterior use. It resists moisture, rot, mildew, and weather without added chemicals. It is available in hard maple and white oak, in lengths up to 10'. An exterior-rated stain or sealant is recommended.
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### Glass cap options
#### Square Metal Cap
* **Graspability:** Graspable
* **Use:** Glass railing top cap reference
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#### 6008 Wood Cap
* **Graspability:** Graspable
* **Species:** All wood species except Ipe and Endurance
* **Use:** Interior glass railing top cap reference
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# How much do FLIGHT Floating Stairs Cost?
Compare FLIGHT floating stair pricing by style, shape, and finish level. See typical cost ranges for Mono, Cantilever, Stack, and Spiral systems, plus what a complete quote includes.
## The Cost and Value of Viewrail Floating Stairs
A FLIGHT system is a great investment into your home's style, design, and value. Of course, it's important at the outset of your project to determine costs, budget, and where to prioritize spending.
We break down the value of a FLIGHT system, then give numbers to help you narrow down your options based on budget, style, and design.
#### Why Doing It All in-House Makes a Huge Difference
Sourcing high-quality lumber for treads. Contracting a metal fabricator to weld a steel stringer on-site. Hiring a glazier to cut and install a glass railing. These steps and more have been a standard part of installing custom, high-end floating stairs in a home for years. Viewrail made it a seamless experience, all while keeping things custom.
With Viewrail, the value isn’t just in high-end stairs and railing, it’s in being a single source for the design, engineering, manufacturing, and delivery of those stairs and railing. Everything is made right here in America, and shipped directly to your door.
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### How Much Value Your Stairs Add to a Home?
A general rule of thumb for stair costs is that Viewrail floating stairs tend to account for around 3% of a home’s market value. For example, in a $10 million home, which prioritizes stairs and railing as a central design feature, the stair and railing system may be valued at approximately $300K. For a $1 million home, more like $30K.
This guideline isn’t a hard and fast rule, and every build or remodel is unique. A central staircase that will help define the look of a home may be valued differently than a stair to the basement. Over the years, however, we’ve found it to be a helpful starting point for budgeting, as you can compare the cost to the potential value of what you’re buying.
### Why Viewrail Leads the Industry
We’re America’s first choice for modern stairs and railing. Here are just a few reasons why:
* **Experience:** We’ve got over 20,000 projects completed and counting.
* **Engineering:** Everything we make is thoughtfully engineered for strength and style.
* **Premium Materials:** We never cut corners or opt for inferior materials in our products.
* **Customization:** No mass manufacturing here. Every system is custom-built for each customer.
* **Forward-Thinking Design:** We’re constantly innovating new and established products to stay ahead of the curve.
An example of FLIGHT Stack in a 90-Degree Configuration
***
### The Cost of FLIGHT Floating Stairs
Each of Viewrail’s [floating stair designs](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/what-are-floating-stairs) offer a truly distinct look. Each is designed in its own unique way in order to achieve a floating, modern look while remaining extraordinarily safe, durable, and sturdy. Here’s how the costs compare across different configurations and features:
|
The Difference Between Standard, Premium, and Luxury
**Standard Features**
* **Compression:** Red Oak Treads, No Finish
* **Bolt-Together:** Aluminum Pan Treads, Standard Black Powder Coat Finish
**Premium Features**
* **Compression:** White Oak Treads, Juniper Finish
* **Bolt-Together:** Aluminum Pan Treads with Hard Maple Top, Jet Black Powder Coat Finish
**Luxury Features**
* **Compression:** Walnut Treads, Clearcoat Finish, LED-Integrated Treads
* **Bolt-Together:** Aluminum Pan Treads with Walnut Top, LED-Integrated Treads, Jet Black Powder Coat Finish
***
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### What’s Included in the Total Project Cost?
*What you get with a Viewrail floating stair quote:*
* Design
* Engineering
* Delivery
* Lumber
* Steel
* Powder coating
* Stains
* Finishes
* Railing
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Done separately, through different suppliers and subcontractors, these costs often far exceed what we can do in-house. With Viewrail, we design, engineer, manufacture, and ship it all ourselves, which means you deal with a single point of contact for a single project.
***
### Example Pricing
While base pricing is helpful, there’s a wide range of projects and costs when it comes to FLIGHT stairs. It’s helpful to look at some specific projects, to give a sense of what we can do, and the associated costs.
Let’s take a look at a few examples:
***
### Related topics
* [What are Floating Stairs](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/what-are-floating-stairs) — Learn the basics before comparing FLIGHT systems and price tiers.
* [How Can I Customize My FLIGHT Staircase?](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-flight-staircase) — See which design choices have the biggest impact on price.
* [How Do I Install a FLIGHT System?](/guides/install/how-do-i-install-a-flight-system) — Review install requirements that can affect planning and budget.
* [What Railing Should I Choose for My Stairs?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/what-railing-should-i-choose-for-my-stairs) — Compare railing styles commonly paired with FLIGHT.
* [How much does Viewrail Cable Railing Cost?](/guides/pricing/how-much-does-viewrail-cable-railing-cost) — Compare FLIGHT pricing with a common cable railing add-on.
* [How much does Viewrail glass railing cost?](/guides/pricing/how-to-avoid-hidden-costs-with-glass-railing) — Estimate how glass railing can change the total project cost.
# How much does Viewrail Cable Railing Cost?
Compare Viewrail cable railing pricing by system, post material, infill, and mounting style. See typical cost ranges for Express and Signature, plus what changes total project cost.
A complete cable railing system, including posts, handrails, cable, and hardware, typically ranges between **$60-$250** per linear foot.
### Comparing Prices Between Post Material and Infill
A complete cable railing system, including posts, handrails, cable, and hardware, typically ranges between $60-$250 per linear foot. Why such a large range? The price of cable railing will vary greatly depending on the type of material, height, number of turns, and complexity.
Let’s break it down for our most popular cable and post material combinations:
| **Price Per Linear Foot** | **Aluminum Posts** | **304 Stainless Posts** | **2205 Stainless Posts** |
| ------------------------- | ------------------ | ----------------------- | ------------------------ |
| Express Cable | $60-$110 | — | — |
| Stainless Cable | $90-$155 | $120-$195 | $140-$215 |
| Stainless Rod | $115-$185 | $135-$210 | $165-$245 |
| Onyx Rod | $120-$190 | $150-$230 | — |
| Coastal Onyx Rod | $135-$210 | — | — |
*Estimate as of February, 2026
***
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### Why Choose Signature Cable Railing?
Signature Cable Railing elevates any deck, staircase, or balcony with lasting value and modern elegance.
* **Durable materials,** including stainless steel and aluminum
* **Versatile infill options:** [**Cable**](https://www.viewrail.com/cable-railing/signature-cable-railing/), [**Onyx Rod**](https://www.viewrail.com/cable-railing/rod-railing/), and [**Stainless Rod**](https://www.viewrail.com/cable-railing/endurance-rod/)
* **Sleek, customizable designs** with hidden fittings
* **Easy installation** and fast lead times
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### Add Certified Viewrail Installation
Get it done right, and right on time. Hire our Certified Viewrail Installers who can handle everything from start to finish.\
[**Find Out How >**](https://www.viewrail.com/installation-services/)
### Two Railing Projects, Multiple Price Points
Looking at total project costs can help give a clearer sense of typical pricing.
Below are two common examples: one for a three-sided deck and another for both a deck and stair railing. Each project has roughly the same railing length, but their total costs vary because of differences in infill type, mounting style, and overall complexity.
Compare the two charts to see how different infill choices and mounting options affect each project’s overall cost.
#### 1. Total Project Cost for: A Three-Sided Deck
| **Infill** | **Surface Mount** | **Side Mount** | **Slim Side Mount** |
| ---------------- | ----------------- | -------------- | ------------------- |
| Express Cable | $2,179 | $2,179 | — |
| Stainless Cable | $3,180 | $3,314 | $3,482 |
| Stainless Rod | $3,724 | $3,859 | $4,027 |
| Onyx Rod | $3,850 | $3,985 | $4,153 |
| Coastal Onyx Rod | $4,426 | $4,560 | $4,728 |
***
### Real-Life Examples
While base pricing is helpful, there’s a wide range of projects and costs when it comes to our signature cable railing. Let’s look at some different projects that Viewrail has completed, showing a range of styles and costs.
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#### White Deck Railing on the Coast
Price Estimate: $5,000 – $7,000
[View Full Gallery](https://www.viewrail.com/project/white-deck-railing-on-the-coast/)
Length: 36 Linear Feet\
Infill: Stainless Rod 2205 Stainless Steel\
Mounting: Standard Surface Mount\
Handrail: Metal
*\*Estimate as of February 2026, before shipping and taxes*
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#### Wooden Handrail and Rod Railing Up Stairs
Price Estimate: $7,000-$9,000
[View Full Gallery](https://www.viewrail.com/project/dark-stained-flight-mono-system-with-wooden-handrail-and-rod-railing/)
Length: 15 Linear Feet + 19 Steps\
Infill: Onyx Rod\
Mounting: Standard Surface Mount\
Handrail: Wood
*\*Estimate as of February 2026, before shipping and taxes*
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#### Cliffside Cable Railing
Price Estimate: $16,000-$18,000
[View Full Gallery](https://www.viewrail.com/project/cliffside-cable-railing/)
Length: 92 Linear Feet\
Infill: Stainless 2205 Steel Rod\
Mounting: Standard Surface Mount\
Handrail: Aluminum Quickslide with LED
*\*Estimate as of February 2026, before shipping and taxes*
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#### Sleek Balcony + Stair Railing
Price Estimate: $17,000 – $19,000
[View Full Gallery](https://www.viewrail.com/project/balcony-railing-modern-office/)
Length: 56 Linear feet + 42 steps\
Infill: Stainless Rod 2205 Steel\
Mounting: Standard Surface Mount\
Handrail: 6000 Hickory
*\*Estimate as of February 2026, before shipping and taxes*
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### The Value of Signature Cable Railing
Signature Cable Railing by Viewrail combines premium materials, innovative engineering, and versatile design, offering unmatched performance for modern spaces. With cable, Onyx Rod, and Stainless Rod infill options, it provides durability, sleek aesthetics, and functionality for indoor and outdoor use.
**Built to Last**\
Crafted with high-grade stainless steel and aluminum, Signature Cable Railing resists corrosion and stands up to harsh environments. Onyx Rod features a bold matte black finish, while Stainless Rod offers no re-tensioning, rust resistance, and superior strength.
**Customizable for Your Style**\
With 50+ finishes, 16 handrail types, and seven post mounting styles, you can create a railing system tailored to your space. Slim infill profiles and hidden fittings deliver a sleek, modern look.
**Thoughtfully Engineered for Simplicity**\
Pre-drilled posts, single-post corner transitions, and easy-to-install Stainless Rod infill streamline the process, cutting installation time and eliminating onsite fabrication.
**Designed for Strength and Safety**\
Engineered to exceed code requirements, Signature Cable Railing uses closer post spacing and robust materials to ensure stability and security without sacrificing style.
***
### Related topics
* [What Mounting Styles are There?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/cable-railing-post-mounting-styles-compared) — See how surface, side, and slim side mount options affect layout and cost.
* [Should I Buy Cable Or Rod Railing?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/cable-railing-vs.-rod-railing-which-one-is-right-for-your-project) — Compare infill options before choosing the best fit for your project.
* [How Do I Install a Cable Railing System?](/guides/install/how-do-i-install-a-cable-or-rod-railing-system) — Review the install process, tools, and planning steps.
* [Can I Install Cable Railing Myself?](broken://spaces/YiIQ32eyDEEMOXuUTd8u/pages/hfzS4NElJ6PyabWq4Kxt) — Decide whether a DIY install makes sense for your budget and timeline.
* [How Do I Maintain Cable Railing?](/guides/maintenance/how-do-i-maintain-cable-railing) — Learn what to expect after installation.
* [How much does Viewrail glass railing cost?](/guides/pricing/how-to-avoid-hidden-costs-with-glass-railing) — Compare cable pricing with another modern railing option.
# How to Avoid Hidden Costs with Glass Railing
Avoid surprise charges on glass railing. Learn which hidden costs to watch for, what a complete quote should include, and how to compare suppliers fairly.
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### Transparent Pricing. No Surprises. Real Value.
When it comes to buying a glass railing system, the lowest *price* isn’t always the best *deal*.
From surprise shipping charges to missing parts and limited design options, hidden costs can add up fast — and derail your project.
At Viewrail, we believe in straightforward pricing. Our quotes are clear, complete, and built around delivering not just what you need, but what you *actually want.*
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### The Top Hidden Costs in Glass Railing
Glass railing systems are often quoted in pieces — glass sold separately from posts, hardware, or even the fasteners needed to complete your install. Some suppliers charge extra for freight, code-compliant upgrades, or basic support. It’s not always easy to compare apples to apples, making finding the best value a difficult search.
Here are some of the top hidden costs in the industry:
1. **Glass panels are sold separately** from the posts or top rail
2. Mounting hardware or handrails **listed as optional** or not listed as essential
3. **Shipping charges added** after the initial quote
4. Engineering documents or code-compliant designs **billed separately**
5. Installation delays due to **missing or unclear components**
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### What You Get With Viewrail Glass Railing
With Viewrail, you get *everything you need to build the system you designed.* No hunting for extra parts. No unexpected upgrades. This approach not only simplifies planning — it protects your budget.
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### A typical Viewrail quote includes:
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Tempered glass panels sized to your space
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All posts and mounting hardware
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[Top rail or handrail options](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/handrail-options-for-stairs-decks-and-interiors)
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Code-compliant, custom engineering
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Shipping, clearly shown
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Customer Support or Certified Installation
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***
### The Other Hidden Cost: Settling for Less
Beyond the dollars and cents, the real cost often lies in what you’re **not** getting.
Many entry-level systems are built for simplicity. They work well for certain applications — but if you’re envisioning something more refined or architecturally integrated, they can **quickly fall short**.
What looks like a simple, affordable solution often ends up being a **compromise**:
* Bulky, obtrusive hardware
* Minimal design flexibility
* Standard sizes that don’t fit your project
* Lower glass clarity and thickness
* No fascia mount or angled panel options
* No code compliance documentation (IRC)
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### Invest in Quality with Viewrail Glass
With Viewrail, you’re investing in:
* Starphire low-iron glass for ultra-clear views
* Glass thickness options up to 3/4″, including laminated safety glass
* Angled and parallelogram panel shapes for slopes or stairs
* Custom panel sizing — capable of 4” up to 120”
* Mounting flexibility — surface or fascia
* ESR reports for IRC code compliance
* Precision cutouts for slots, holes, and detailing
These aren’t luxury features — they’re what it takes to get your railing system *right.* The real hidden cost? Designing your dream space, then settling for a system that can’t deliver it.
### Glass Railing Pricing: Comparing Suppliers
| | **Other Suppliers** | **Viewrail** |
| ----------------- | ---------------------- | --------------------- |
| Glass Panels | Sold separately | Included |
| Mounting Hardware | Optional extra | Included |
| Posts | Priced individually | Included + engineered |
| Shipping | Variable or added late | Clearly shown upfront |
| Support | Often limited | Built-in with order |
### Questions to Ask Any Glass Railing Supplier
Before you buy, ask these questions to protect your investment:
1. *Is the glass included in this quote?*
2. *Are all posts, brackets, and hardware accounted for?*
3. *Does this price include code-compliant engineering or drawings?*
4. *Are there any added shipping charges or required upgrades later?*
5. *What kind of install support is available if I need help?*
### Related topics
#### Understand the system
* [What is Glass Railing?](/guides/about-stairs-and-railing/what-is-glass-railing) — Compare framed, semi-frameless, and frameless systems.
* [What Handrail Options Do I Have?](/guides/planning/choose-the-right-railing-for-your-project/handrail-options-for-stairs-decks-and-interiors) — See when glass needs a top rail, cap rail, or separate handrail.
* [How much does Viewrail Cable Railing Cost?](/guides/pricing/how-much-does-viewrail-cable-railing-cost) — Compare glass pricing with another modern railing option.
#### Plan the next step
* [How Do I Install a Glass Railing System?](/guides/install/how-do-i-install-a-glass-railing-system) — Review install considerations before you finalize your quote.
* [How Do I Maintain Glass Railing?](/guides/maintenance/how-do-i-maintain-glass-railing) — Understand cleaning, coatings, and long-term upkeep.
# How Much Does Glass Railing Cost?
Compare glass railing pricing by system, glass type, and mounting style. See typical per-foot ranges, sample project costs, and what changes the total price.
\
A complete glass railing system, including handrails, glass, and hardware, has a wide price range, and depends on several variables, including the type and thickness of the glass, the glass system being used, and the materials chosen for posts and hardware. Viewrail’s price range for glass systems is anywhere from **$170 to $680** per linear foot.
### Pricing for Post-to-Post Style Glass Railing
A complete Post Glass Railing System, including posts, handrails, cable, and hardware, typically ranges between $170-$565 per linear foot, mainly depending on the glass type and width, as well as the post material.
| **Glass Width and Type** | **Aluminum Posts** | **304 Stainless Posts** | **2205 Stainless Posts** |
| ------------------------ | ------------------ | ----------------------- | ------------------------ |
| 3/8" Tempered Glass | $170 - $290 | $210 - $335 | $230 - $355 |
| 9/16" Laminated Glass | $300 - $495 | $340 - $545 | $360 - $565 |
*\*Estimate as of February, 2026*
### Pricing for Frameless Style Glass Railing
A complete Frameless Glass Railing System, including all glass and hardware, typically ranges between $210-$680 per linear foot, which depends significantly on glass system as well as glass width and type.
| **Glass System** | **1/2" Tempered Glass** | **9/16" Laminated Glass** |
| ------------------------ | ----------------------- | ------------------------- |
| Surface Talons | $215 - $285 | $345 - $485 |
| Side Mount Talons | $315 - $400 | $445 - $645 |
| Standoff Pins | $270 - $410 | $455 - $680 |
| Base Rail | $365 - $585 | $355 - $505 |
| Hidden Side Mount | $315 - $400 | $495 - $675 |
| Ascend Talons | $210 - $320 | $340 - $520 |
| Side Mount Ascend Talons | $260 - $375 | $420 - $625 |
*\*Estimate as of February, 2026*
### Why Choose Viewrail Glass Railing?
Glass Railing elevates any deck, staircase, or balcony with lasting value and a high-end style.
* **Durable materials,** including tempered and laminated glass, stainless steel, and aluminum
* **Versatile glass system options:** [See all styles](https://www.viewrail.com/glass-railing/)
* **Sleek, customizable designs** with hidden hardware
* **Easy installation** and fast lead times
### Add Certified Viewrail Installation
Get it done right, and right on time. Hire our Certified Viewrail Installers who can handle everything from start to finish.
### Two Railing Projects, Multiple Price Points
Looking at total project costs helps show how layout affects budget.
These two sample projects use similar railing length. Total cost changes based on system choice, glass type, and mounting complexity.
#### 1. Three-Sided Deck
*Based on a 6 x 12 x 6-foot deck with a 36-inch railing height*
| **Option** | **System** | **Total project cost** |
| --------------- | ------------------------------------ | ---------------------- |
| Least expensive | Posts with 3/8" Tempered Glass | $4,500 |
| Middle ground | Base Rail with 9/16" Laminated Glass | $8,780 |
| Most expensive | Brass Standoff Pins | $13,560 |
#### 2. Stairs + Level Railing
*Based on 12 steps, 11 linear feet of level railing, a 36-inch stair angle, and a 39-inch level height*
| **Option** | **System** | **Total project cost** |
| --------------- | ------------------------------------------------------------------------- | ---------------------- |
| Least expensive | Posts with 3/8" Tempered Glass | $4,910 |
| Middle ground | Ascend Talons on stairs plus Hidden Side Mount with 9/16" Laminated Glass | $10,910 |
| Most expensive | Brass Standoff Pins | $16,180 |
*\*Estimate as of February 2026*
### Real-Life Examples
Base pricing helps, but finished projects show how system choice, mounting style, and layout affect the total cost. Here are three completed projects across a range of styles and budgets.
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#### Side Mount Ascend Talons
**Price estimate:** $20,800
[View Full Gallery](https://www.viewrail.com/project/side-mounted-glass-railing-on-a-lakeside-balcony/)
* **Total length:** \~65 linear feet
* **Height:** 39 inches
* **Glass system:** Side Mount Ascend Talons
* **Glass:** 1/2-inch tempered
* **Caprail:** Black aluminum
*\*Estimate as of February 2026, before shipping and taxes*
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#### Outdoor Posts System in Breckendridge
**Price estimate:** $22,260
[View Full Gallery](https://www.viewrail.com/project/276955-glass-railing-breckenridge/)
* **Total length:** 62 linear feet
* **Height:** 36.5 inches
* **Glass system:** Posts
* **Glass:** 9/16-inch laminated
*\*Estimate as of February 2026, before shipping and taxes*
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#### Standoff Pins on Stairs
**Price estimate:** $6,580
[View Full Gallery](https://www.viewrail.com/project/glass-railing-white/)
* **Length:** 16.25 angled feet
* **Glass system:** Standoff Pins
* **Pins:** Sandstone powder coat
* **Caprail:** White oak
*\*Estimate as of February 2026, before shipping and taxes*
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### The Value of Viewrail Glass Railing
[Viewrail Glass Railing](https://www.viewrail.com/glass-railing/) combines architectural-grade materials, precision engineering, and unobstructed design to deliver a railing experience unlike any other. With mounting systems including [Base Rail](https://www.viewrail.com/glass-railing/base-rail/), [Talon Spigots](https://www.viewrail.com/glass-railing/talon-spigots/), [Standoff Pins](https://www.viewrail.com/glass-railing/standoff-pins/), and [Hidden Side Mount](https://www.viewrail.com/glass-railing/hidden-side-mount/), it offers maximum clarity, durability, and flexibility for indoor and outdoor spaces.
#### **Built to Last**
Crafted with tempered or laminated safety glass as well as hardware made from 2205 duplex stainless steel or aerospace-grade aluminum, Viewrail Glass Railing is built to resist corrosion, weather, and impact. Every panel is cut, tempered, and fabricated in-house and tested well beyond minimum standards, so you can count on it for the long haul.
#### **Customizable for Your Style**
From frameless Base Rail and side-mounted Hidden Side Mount to floating Talon Spigots and discreet Standoff Pins, there’s a mounting style to suit any aesthetic. Pair your system with a cap rail, [hydrophobic glass coating](https://www.viewrail.com/glass-railing/hydrophobic-glass-coating/), and powder-coated hardware in a finish matched to your project for a fully cohesive look.
#### **Thoughtfully Engineered for Simplicity**
Each glass railing system ships with custom-engineered glass panels, hardware matched to your layout, and detailed installation documentation. Our project managers guide you through the process, reducing guesswork and eliminating onsite fabrication.
#### **Designed for Strength and Safety**
All Viewrail glass systems are engineered as complete assemblies with glass, hardware, posts, and anchors to meet or exceed code requirements. Backed by [ICC-ES Evaluation Reports](https://www.viewrail.com/icc-certifications/), they block openings, resist wind loads, and provide a solid barrier without sacrificing the view.
# How Do I Install a FLIGHT System?
Compare FLIGHT install paths for Mono, Cantilever, and Stack. See which systems are DIY-friendly, which require certified installers, and where to start.
FLIGHT installation depends on the stair system you choose. Mono supports customer installation. Cantilever and Stack require certified installation and project-specific instructions.
### Choose your install path
1. [How Do I Install a FLIGHT Mono System?](/guides/install/how-do-i-install-a-flight-system/how-do-i-install-a-flight-mono-system)
2. [How do I Install a FLIGHT Cantilever System?](/guides/install/how-do-i-install-a-flight-system/how-do-i-install-a-flight-cantilever-system)
3. [How Do I Install a FLIGHT Stack System?](/guides/install/how-do-i-install-a-flight-system/how-do-i-install-a-flight-stack-system)
{% hint style="info" %}
FLIGHT Mono is the only FLIGHT system designed for customer installation. Cantilever and Stack use Viewrail Certified Installers.
{% endhint %}
### Related topics
* [Choose Your FLIGHT Style](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-flight-staircase/choose-your-flight-style) — Compare each FLIGHT system before you build.
* [How Can I Customize My FLIGHT Staircase?](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-flight-staircase) — Review finishes, railing, and upgrade options.
* [How much do FLIGHT Floating Stairs Cost?](/guides/pricing/how-much-do-flight-floating-stairs-cost) — See how style and finish choices affect price.
# How Do I Install a FLIGHT Mono System?
Install a FLIGHT Mono floating stair system with the right prep, tools, and sequence for a smooth straight-run install.
FLIGHT Mono is Viewrail's flagship floating stair system. It uses a single steel stringer and floating wood treads for a clean, open look.
You can install FLIGHT Mono yourself. Every system ships custom-engineered and prefabricated to your specs. No on-site welding is required.
{% hint style="info" %}
FLIGHT Mono is the only FLIGHT system designed for customer installation. [Stack, Cantilever, and Spiral](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-flight-staircase/choose-your-flight-style) require Viewrail Certified Installers.
{% endhint %}
### What this guide covers
* **Site prep** — blocking, attachment surfaces, and layout checks.
* **Tools and delivery** — what to gather and what to verify first.
* **Install sequence** — 8 steps for a straight FLIGHT Mono run.
### Before You Start
#### Prep Your Site
Before your system ships, make sure your framing is ready. The header at the top and the footer at the bottom both need structural support before install day.
#### Header Blocking
The header is where the top of the stringer attaches to the upper floor structure. The header plate transfers the full load of the stair into the framing. In most cases, the existing header beam alone is not enough. Add blocking behind it so the lag bolts land in solid material.
Two options meet the minimum requirement:
* **Double LVL (Laminated Veneer Lumber):** LVL is an engineered wood product commonly used in residential framing. For this application, two LVL members are sistered together and installed behind your header beam, braced into the cross floor joists. LVL is a great choice here because it's dimensionally stable — it won't twist, shrink, or split over time.
* **Triple 2x construction lumber:** Three pieces of standard dimensional lumber fastened together behind the header beam work equally well if LVL isn't available or preferred.
Either approach meets code minimums. What matters is that there is solid, well-fastened backing in place before the header plate is bolted in.
{% hint style="warning" %}
Install blocking before drywall or sheetrock goes up. The header plate must sit flush against solid wood. If finish material sits behind the plate, the connection can weaken under load.
{% endhint %}
#### Footer Blocking
The footer plate needs the same support. Add matching blocking at the footer location before install day. Use either a triple 2x assembly or a double LVL.
For concrete subfloors, the slab at the attachment point must be at least 4 inches thick.
#### Clear the Attachment Surfaces
At both attachment points, the plates need to connect directly to the structural subfloor. Remove any carpet, tile, or other floating surface layers before installation.
#### Mark and Pre-Drill the Holes
Before installing either plate, mark and pre-drill your bolt holes. Doing this ahead of time makes the install faster and reduces the chance of misalignment once the stringer is raised into position.
#### Unpack and Verify Your Delivery
Your FLIGHT system arrives in several boxes. Each box is numbered to match your 2D installation drawing. Lay out every component and match it to the drawing before you begin. This speeds up the install and helps you catch shipping issues early as you work through your [FLIGHT customization details](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-flight-staircase).
#### Gather Your Tools
Viewrail includes several specialized tools with your order, including a torque wrench, sockets, and bits. You'll need to supply the following yourself:
* Drill or hammer drill
* Impact driver or socket wrench
* Level
* T-square
* Wood drill bits
* Wood glue
* Silicone sealant
### Installing Your FLIGHT Mono: 8 Steps
These steps cover a straight FLIGHT Mono installation. If your system includes turns or another custom condition, use your project-specific instruction manual for those details.
{% stepper %}
{% step %}
#### Step 1: Prep the stringer
Secure the attachment plate to each end of the stringer. Follow the torque and fastening sequence in your written installation instructions exactly. The sequence matters for proper load distribution.
{% endstep %}
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#### Step 2: Mark the header position
Use the measurements from your provided drawing to mark the header plate location. Accurate marks make the lift and alignment much easier.
{% endstep %}
{% step %}
#### Step 3: Raise the stringer into position
With one or two helpers, or a come-along winch, raise the stringer and align it to your header marks. Drive one lag bolt to hold it temporarily. Do not fully secure it yet.
{% endstep %}
{% step %}
#### Step 4: Install the tread brackets
With the stringer temporarily supported, install all tread brackets. The bottom tread uses a different attachment method because of limited clearance. Your project manual shows that detail.
{% endstep %}
{% step %}
#### Step 5: Confirm the stringer is level
Install one tread near the top and one near the bottom. Check that both treads are level. Also check that the tread-to-wall gap stays consistent from top to bottom. If needed, shim the stringer before you continue.
{% endstep %}
{% step %}
#### Step 6: Secure the stringer
Once the stringer is level and aligned, add a second lag bolt to the header plate. Then fill the remaining holes in the header and footer plates. Install the cover plates to finish the attachment points.
{% endstep %}
{% step %}
#### Step 7: Install the remaining treads
Install the rest of the treads using the supplied fasteners. Follow your drawing and installation manual for placement and sequence.
{% endstep %}
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#### Step 8: Install the tread bracket covers
Place the magnets onto the pre-installed magnet screws. Run a bead of silicone around each tread and set the covers in place. This gives the stair a clean, hardware-free finish.
{% endstep %}
{% endstepper %}
### Next Steps After Installation
#### Install Your Railing
Your stair structure is complete. Next, install the railing system that matches your project. Viewrail offers [cable railing](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-flight-staircase/choose-a-flight-cable-railing-style), rod railing, and [glass railing](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-flight-staircase/choose-a-flight-glass-railing-style) systems designed to pair with FLIGHT Mono.
#### Keep It Looking Great
* **Interior treads** use a conversion varnish. Clean them like any hardwood floor.
* **Exterior Endurance treads** use a thermally modified wood and oil-based finish. Clean them yearly and reapply finish once a year. For material options, see [Choose FLIGHT Wood Species and Finish](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-flight-staircase/choose-flight-wood-species-and-finish).
* **Cable railing** ships with stainless steel cleaner. Apply it with a microfiber cloth as needed.
* **Glass railing** follows its own cleaning and safety guidelines in [How Do I Maintain Glass Railing?](/guides/maintenance/how-do-i-maintain-glass-railing).
### Prefer Professional Installation?
If you'd rather hand off the job, Viewrail's nationwide network of Certified Installers can handle the full process, from site measurement through final installation. Professional installation also includes enhanced warranty coverage and works well for projects beyond [FLIGHT Mono](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-flight-staircase/choose-your-flight-style).
### Related topics
* [Choose Your FLIGHT Style](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-flight-staircase/choose-your-flight-style) — Compare Mono with other FLIGHT systems.
* [Choose a FLIGHT Cable Railing Style](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-flight-staircase/choose-a-flight-cable-railing-style) — Review cable railing options that pair with FLIGHT.
* [Choose a FLIGHT Glass Railing Style](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-flight-staircase/choose-a-flight-glass-railing-style) — Compare integrated and stair-compatible glass options.
* [How Do I Maintain Glass Railing?](/guides/maintenance/how-do-i-maintain-glass-railing) — See cleaning and safety guidance for glass systems.
# How do I Install a FLIGHT Cantilever System?
Learn how a FLIGHT Cantilever stair installs, from wall prep and bracket placement to tread assembly and glass railing.
FLIGHT Cantilever delivers a clean, modern stair with a rigid feel underfoot. It mounts directly to the wall face, so you can use the framing already in place and keep wiring between the studs.
Viewrail provides a custom template for the steel mounting brackets, along with project-specific instructions. For builders and installers handling multiple jobs, the process stays consistent and repeatable.
### Installation overview
These are the basic steps for installing a FLIGHT Cantilever with [Vedera](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-flight-staircase/choose-a-flight-glass-railing-style) glass railing. Your shipment also includes step-by-step instructions tailored to your project.
{% stepper %}
{% step %}
#### Step 1: Prepare the wall
Add 1 3/4-inch LVLs on both sides of each wall stud. Use L brackets at the top and bottom to tie the LVLs into the framing.
Next, mount the wall plate template, starting at the first tread location on the bottom-most run.
Use the template to place the aluminum brackets. These create more surface area for the mounting brackets during installation.
{% endstep %}
{% step %}
#### Step 2: Mount the wall plates
Set each steel plate on the plywood template. Screw the plate to the wall with eight to ten fasteners.
Each mounting plate includes multiple slots. This lets you place bolts accurately into both the wood framing and the aluminum angle brackets.
{% endstep %}
{% step %}
#### Step 3: Attach the tread arms
Attach the tread assembly to the wall plate by threading the bolts into the pre-tapped holes.
Then mount the tread arm assembly to the top of the inner arm. It slides back and forth so you can adjust tread arm length to match the tread width on your prints.
{% endstep %}
{% step %}
#### Step 4: Build out the wall
Install floor-to-ceiling AdvanTech subflooring to bring the wall flush with the mounting brackets. This also adds rigidity to support the full system.
Then add 1/2-inch furring strips to build the wall out past the bolts.
Add full sheets of plywood over that layer. This ties the furring strips to the AdvanTech subfloor.
Finish with 3/8-inch drywall to hide the brackets, bolts, and welds.
{% endstep %}
{% step %}
#### Step 5: Install the wood treads
Make sure each tread is perfectly level before you install the wood treads. Adjust the bolts on the underside of the steel treads to fine-tune the pitch of each step.
The wood treads fit over the tread pan with miter-locked corners. Bring the two tread pieces together, glue and clamp them, then install lighting if your project includes an LED route.
{% endstep %}
{% step %}
#### Step 6: Install the glass railing
Install your [Vedera](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-flight-staircase/choose-a-flight-glass-railing-style) railing and the end caps. The railing helps stiffen the full system and completes the final look.
To compare compatible glass systems, see [Choose a FLIGHT Glass Railing Style](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-flight-staircase/choose-a-flight-glass-railing-style).
{% endstep %}
{% endstepper %}
### Related topics
* [How Can I Customize My FLIGHT Staircase?](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-flight-staircase) — Review the full FLIGHT decision path.
* [Choose Your FLIGHT Style](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-flight-staircase/choose-your-flight-style) — Compare Cantilever with other FLIGHT systems.
* [Choose a FLIGHT Glass Railing Style](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-flight-staircase/choose-a-flight-glass-railing-style) — Compare Vedera with other glass options for stairs and landings.
* [How Do I Maintain Glass Railing?](/guides/maintenance/how-do-i-maintain-glass-railing) — Keep the glass clean and protected after install.
# How Do I Install a FLIGHT Stack System?
Learn the install sequence for FLIGHT Stack, from steel frame setup and tread pan alignment to wood tread assembly, LEDs, and Vedera glass.
FLIGHT Stack installs in two main phases. First, the steel frame and tread pans go in. Then the wood treads, anti-runs, glass, and finish details complete the stair.
Some projects ship in a steel-first sequence. In those cases, the stringers, tread pans, temporary treads, and plywood glass templates go in first. The finished wood and glass install later.
Viewrail builds each system to your project drawings. The install depends on templates, tread pan alignment, and a tight finish sequence.
{% hint style="info" %}
FLIGHT Stack is not a DIY FLIGHT system. Use the project drawings and installer instructions provided with your order.
{% endhint %}
### Installation overview
These are the main stages of a FLIGHT Stack installation. Your project package includes the exact measurements, hardware, and tread labels for your stair.
{% stepper %}
{% step %}
#### Step 1: Set the header template and prep the attachment points
Mark the plywood header template location from the finished-floor reference on your drawings. Fasten the template directly to structural blocking, then predrill the outside holes.
If finish flooring is not installed yet, build up the stringer feet and lower tread pan locations to match the final floor thickness. For wall-side installs, mount the plywood stringer template to the wall backing before the steel goes up.
{% endstep %}
{% step %}
#### Step 2: Hang the steel stringers and verify geometry
Attach the header brackets to the stringers. Raise the stringers into place and fix them at the header.
For wall-side installs, lag the stringer to the wall template. Then check each stringer for plumb on all three axes and confirm the top rise is 1 inch long to account for the finished tread thickness.
{% endstep %}
{% step %}
#### Step 3: Install tread pans in sequence
Assemble each tread pan with its gasket set first. Then install the first tread pan, level it, recess it 1/16 inch from the top and front edges of the stringers, and torque the hardware.
Continue down the run one pan at a time. Add the required polycarbonate shims between pans, square up the new pan, then return to torque the previous one. Repeat that pattern until the top tread pan is installed.
{% endstep %}
{% step %}
#### Step 4: Finish the steel-first phase
Predrill the remaining header holes, install the header frame brace, and secure the first and second tread pans with the lag screws shown on the drawings.
If the steel ships before the finished wood and glass, the stair can serve as a temporary stair after this phase. Temporary 2x12 treads can be added until the finish package arrives.
The steel-first install also includes the temporary plywood glass templates and early Vedera mounting hardware. Those temporary parts come off before the finished tread and glass phase begins.
{% endstep %}
{% step %}
#### Step 5: Route LEDs if included, then install the wood tread assemblies
If your stair includes LEDs, remove any temporary parts first, drill the harness access hole, and have a licensed electrician connect the controller and power supply. Then run the loomed stringer harness through the tread pans.
Start at the top tread. Dry fit, scribe if needed, apply adhesive, route the LED harness, and fasten the rise-and-run assembly from underneath.
Then drill the pilot holes that tie each lower tread to the riser above, connect the tread harness to the main stringer harness, test the LED strip if needed, and repeat that pattern as you work down the stair.
{% endstep %}
{% step %}
#### Step 6: Install anti-runs and anti-rises
Once the tread assemblies are in, glue the frame brace in place and install the anti-run and anti-rise parts from the bottom up. Clamp them, fasten them from inside the tread pans, and let the adhesive cure.
If the LED power supply is installed inside the first tread, do not use construction adhesive where future access is required.
After that, check tread alignment and sand any proud edges. Then apply the tread gaskets and slide nylon bushings over the exposed bolts.
{% endstep %}
{% step %}
#### Step 7: Install Vedera glass and finish details
Use the glass labels and drawings to place each panel. Add the Vedera gaskets, plates, O-rings, and pin end caps, then hand-tighten the nuts so the panels can still be adjusted.
Once all panels are in, align them to a 1-inch gap unless your drawings say otherwise. Tighten the first and last nut on each pin first, then finish torquing all Vedera pin nuts to 23 lb-ft.
Install the wood cover caps over each pin. If your stair includes lighting, pair the wall remote and test on, off, dimming, and color temperature before final cleanup.
{% endstep %}
{% endstepper %}
### Related topics
* [Choose Your FLIGHT Style](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-flight-staircase/choose-your-flight-style) — Compare Stack with other FLIGHT systems.
* [How Can I Customize My FLIGHT Staircase?](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-flight-staircase) — Review the full FLIGHT planning path.
* [Choose a FLIGHT Glass Railing Style](/guides/planning/how-can-i-customize-my-flight-staircase/choose-a-flight-glass-railing-style) — Compare Vedera with other stair glass options.
* [How Do I Maintain Glass Railing?](/guides/maintenance/how-do-i-maintain-glass-railing) — Keep the glass clean after install.
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