Base Rail Installation

Pencil

Tape Measure

Chalk Line

Level

Rubber Mallet

Knife/Scissors

Miter Saw

Drill

3/8" Wood Drill Bit

3/4" Socket Wrench/Bit

Silicon/Epoxy

Base Rail Wrench (Provided)

Glass Suction Cup Handles (Provided)

Refer to your detailed project drawing and quote list to identify the parts needed

Prepare the parts for each run you will be working on

Measure the distance from the edge of the mounting surface where you will mount the base rail

Mark accordingly across the surface

Use a chalk line to mark your full run location

Measure the distance from the edge of the mounting surface where you will mount the base rail

Mark accordingly across the surface

Use a chalk line to mark your full run location

Remove the base rail and use a 3/8" drill bit to drill 3 1/2" down in each marked location

Remove the base rail and use a 7/16" masonry bit to drill 4 1/2" down in each marked location

Use a wire brush and a vacuum to clean concrete dust out of the newly made hole - Insure all debris is removed from the cavity

For exterior decking that does not adequate drainage, Base Rail Drain Blocks may be placed under the Base Rail to allow water to seep

To install, place each shim over the previously drilled holes and continue with your installation

It may be necessary to cut the base rail to length

It is important to leave at least 2 mounting holes on the part of the base rail you intend to use

The minimum length that can be used 18 1/2"

If you need a smaller section then, you would need to cut the preceding base rail down as well to allow for the next piece to be able to be mounted securely

Place your base rail where it will be mounted down

Set the mounting washer into the mounting hole Standard Flooring

Using a 3/4" socket wrench fasten the 1/2" x 4" lag down into your surface, repeat this for each mounting location on this base rail

Using an impact driver to drive the concrete screws down until snug, over tightening can lead to spin out

Once mounted, check for plumb lengthwise & widthwise

Where two base rail lengths butt up against each other, you will need to use the joining pins to connect them

Using a mallet or dead blow hammer, gently tap the threaded end of each pin into place until the threads are completely inserted

Connect the two base rail lengths by sliding the second on over the pins together

Connect the two base rails together and repeat STEPS 2-7 for the new base rail length

Prepare the glass clamp assemblies by screwing the nuts up the metal plate they are mounted on

This will allow the clamp to fit in the base rail, and the glass to fit in the clamp

Slide the acrylic Base Rail Clamp over the metal plate

When all your base rails are mounted down, place all the glass clamp assemblies into the channel Residential Installations

You will use 4 glass clamp assemblies for every 4'6" base rail section

You will use 7 glass clamp assemblies for every 4'6" base rail section

For the residential installations, make sure to follow the glass clamp assembly spacing outlined above

For sections that have to be cut down to fit the run, ensure you have a glass clamp 2" from each edge of the glass panel and space the remaining clamps no further than 12" apart

For the commercial installations, make sure to follow the glass clamp assembly spacing outlined above

For sections that have to be cut down to fit the run, ensure you have a glass clamp 2" from each edge of the glass panel and space the remaining clamps no further than 4 3/4" apart

With the grips in place, refer to your drawings and panel labels

Use the suction cups to move each panel into place on the base rail

Slide one shim in between the glass panel and the acrylic isolator

To do this you may need to tilt the glass towards the opposite side from the base rail that you are placing the shims

Adjust the nuts as needed to level the glass

Adjust the nuts on the opposite side of the plastic shim first (you may need to use the long wrench)

Tighten these counter clockwise until the panel is level

Then adjust the inside nuts to start putting pressure on the glass

Check the level once everything is snug

Go back to the outside & make sure the nuts are tight

Using the table below, stick the provided 2" adhesive pads to each base rail section using the table below

Take each cover and clip them into place

The lip of the cover should lock in place on the inside of the channel

Tap them down to ensure they are seated properly

It may be necessary to use a rubber mallet to properly seat the covers

Once the covers are fully seated, locate the Gap filler pieces

Begin installing your gap filler pieces in between each pair of glass panels by cutting each piece to size and placing the pointed edge down into the channel

The flexible barbs will hold each piece in place

Measure the run & cut the gasket to length using scissors or a knife

Make sure to not stretch the gasket when measuring it for cutting as it will shrink back to its original size and end up leaving a portion of the inner base rail exposed

Using glass cleaner as a lubricant, begin pushing the gasket down inside the channel working from left to right

For any exposed end of base rail, attach the Base Rail End Cap

You can use silicone or epoxy to hold it into place

Make sure to have the “weep hole” positioned at the bottom of the end cap and no silicone covering it up