Bolt-Together Spiral Staircase Installation Guide

Tip: Consider the thickness of any additional tread toppers that are being added e.g.: solid hardwood tread, Ipe, Trex, tile, etc. The finished landing top should be level with your finished floors.

Mark your mounting hole locations through the Exterior Anchor Plate

A: Treads with Post Use the Spiral Tube Coupler on the front most hole in the landing to screw the post to the top of the tread and the Tread Support tube to the bottom

B: Intermediate Treads (No Post) Use a Spiral Support Top Cap on top of the tread and screw it in to a Tread Support Tube

Note: You may need to remove and disassemble the post top assemblies to adjust their alignment

• Temporary affix the handrail brackets to the domes of each post on the spiral section of the stairs using just (1) hand tightened 1/4" 20 x 1/4" Button Head Screw per dome

Note: It will only be possible to secure the upper side/back side hole of Handrail Bracket to handrail at this time.

Note: The Rod infill will come in straight sections and will curve around the spiral as you thread it through the post

• Start on the second post from the bottom and run the rod upwards, crimped fitting end first, through each post until it goes through the top post

Note: It may be necessary to go back up to the top of the system and loosen the Tension Receiver a little to give you a little more play in the rod.

Things to Know Before You Get Started • Read over the provided material prior to the start of your installation • Many of our products are aided by a second or third set of hands, in some cases it can be a necessity. Plan accordingly

Tools & Supplies Needed for this Installation • Spiral Install Kit (Provided) • Right Angle Drill • Hammer Drill (Concrete Header or Footer) • Impact Driver • Torque Wrench • Socket Wrench • Pencil/Marker • 11/64" Wood Drill Bit • Concrete Drill Bit (Concrete Header or Footer) • T-50 Torx Socket • Socket Extension • 5 /32" & 3 /8 " Allen Wrenches • No.2 Square Drive Bit • Level • Framing Square • Measuring Tape • Strap Wrench • Painter’s Tape

Visit our YouTube channel to watch helpful installation videos youtube.com/viewrail

Prior to beginning installation • Review all prints provided • Inventory and inspect all parts

• Set column on a soft surface and remove all Tread Nuts • Set column and Tread Nuts aside for later use

Set your landing first • With a partner or two, lift the landing into place • Use 2x4’s for additional support once the landing is lifted into place • Check to ensure the landing is level, adjust if necessary

• Predrill (2) holes per plate using a 11/64" drill bit • Utilizing the landing doubler plates with (2) 3 /8 " x 5" Washer Head Lag Screws secure each plate • Additional screws will be used to populate all holes in the doubler plates after the column is set. Use a 2x4 to support the outside corner of the landing.

Tip: Consider the thickness of any additional tread toppers that are being added e.g.: solid hardwood tread, Ipe, Trex, tile, etc. The finished landing top should be level with your finished floors.

• Slide the Exterior Foot Plate into the bottom of the column • Stand the column up, and attach the column to the landing with (1) Tread Nut

• Make sure landing is level and column is plumb

• Mark your mounting hole locations through the Exterior Anchor Plate

• Remove the Large Connection Nut and take column back down

• Predrill your mounting holes

• Mount the Column Anchor Plate in the predrilled holes

• Slide the anchor plate cover on to the base of the column • Use painters tape to hold the cover up while you lift and place the column on to the Footer Plate • Attach the column to the landing with the (1) Tread Connection Washer and (1) Tread Nut • Make sure the column is plumb

• Predrill and install the landing using the remaining 3 /8 " x 5" Washer Head Lag Screws into the landing

• Use the Spiral Tube coupler on the front most hole in the landing to screw the post to the top of the landing and the tread support tube to the bottom of the landing

• Continuing to work down from the top, move to the next tread and slide it into place on the big bolt • Add (1) Tread Connection Washer and (1) Tread Nut and hand tighten

• Use the Spiral Post Bottom Cap to attach the tread to the Tread Support Tube that comes down from the tread/landing above

A: Treads with Post Use the Spiral Tube Coupler on the front most hole in the landing to screw the post to the top of the tread and the Tread Support tube to the bottom B: Intermediate Treads (No Post) Use a Spiral Support Top Cap on top of the tread and screw it in to a Tread Support Tube • Repeat STEPS 12-13 until the bottom tread is mounted (Next steps cover floor mounting for Tread 1)

• Screw the bottom tread adjustable foot assembly on to the 1st tread support tube • Screw the assembled first tread support tube on to the bottom of the first tread

• Ensure that the landing and all treads are level

• Thread the second Tread Nut on to each big bolt

• Install the Landing & Tread Access Plates using the supplied self tapping screws

Installing the Post on Top of Column • Screw the post that is to go at the top of the center column through the Post Anchor Plate and on to a Spiral Post Cap Bottom • Secure that assembly to the Internal Column Plate using (3) Post Anchor Plate Screws • Carefully slide the Post Anchor Cover Plate down to finish the look

Installing the Curved Handrail • Thread the supplied post top assemblies on to the top of each post • Align the flat sides of each of the domes with the overall curve of the spiral shape of the stair system

Note: You may need to remove and disassemble the post top assemblies to adjust their alignment

• Temporary affix the handrail brackets to the domes of each post on the spiral section of the stairs using just (1) hand tightened 1 /4 " 20 x 1 /4 " Button Head Screw per dome

• With help, hoist the spiral handrail into position • Drill (1) self-tapping metal handrail screw into each of the Handrail Brackets

Note: It will only be possible to secure the upper side/back side hole of Handrail Bracket to handrail at this time.

• Remove all but the top post’s 1 /4 " 20 x 1 /4 " Button Head Screws from the post top domes • Using the still attached top post bracket, lift handrail up to access low side holes • Drill the other self-tapping metal handrail screw into each of the Handrail Bracket’s lower side • Lower the handrail back into place • Reattach handrail to post with (2) dome screws

• Install any remaining handrail in a similar fashion

Installing the Curved Infill • Insert the Threaded Crimp Fitting into one end of the rod • Crimp the fitting near the Crimp Fitting Flange • Rotate the rod and Crimp Fitting 90° and crimp again • Repeat these steps to the other side of the run • Make sure to crimp the rod in the depression of the crimp fitting, and not on the raised collars - See Figure A above

Note: The Rod infill will come in straight sections and will curve around the spiral as you thread it through the posts

• Start on the second post from the bottom and run the rod upwards, crimped fitting end first, through each post until it goes through the top post

• Place an angle washer over the top of the rod and seat it against the post • Thread the Tension Receiver on the Threaded Crimp fitting (5) full turns • Gently pull the rod back through the top post so that the Angle Washer and Tension Receiver sit snug against the back of the post

• Move back down to the bottom of the stair system • Take the portion of the rod that is sticking out of the 2nd post and now guide it though the back of the 1st post • Look over the entire rod to ensure symmetry between posts, meaning that it doesn’t bow out anywhere more in one area than any other • Place a piece of tape to mark where the rod meets the back of the 1st post

• Now pull back on the rod back out of the first post • Make a mark 1 /2 " from the tape, this will be your cut line

• Being careful to not damage any part of the system, cut the rod on the mark you made in the previous step

• Insert the Threaded Crimp Fitting into one end of the rod • Crimp the fitting near the Crimp Fitting Flange • Rotate the rod and Crimp Fitting 90° and crimp again • Repeat these steps to the other side of the run • Make sure to crimp the rod in the depression of the crimp fitting, and not on the raised collars - See Figure A above

• Insert the rod with attached Threaded Crimp Fitting back into the 1st post • Slide an Angle Washer on to a Tension Receiver and position it so that you can thread it on to the Threaded Crimp Fitting inside the post

Note: It may be necessary to go back up to the top of the system and loosen the Tension Receiver a little to give you a little more play in the rod.

• Repeat STEPS 24-31 for the reaming runs of infill • Once all are connected go back through and tighten each Tension Receiver in the following order