Steel First Install
Things to Know Before You Get Started
Read over the provided material prior to the start of your installation
Viewrail Glass systems and fittings are designed to have a 1" gap between panels of glass
Many of our products are aided by a second or third set of hands, in some cases it can be a necessity. Plan accordingly.
FLIGHT Cantilever can include LED products, See our LED information page for more information about Viewrail's LED Systems
Sister LVLs to both sides of main LVL stud per chart using polyurethane foam adhesive and 4" GRK screws every 6" alternating
Tie header plate into house framing as required for wall load; consult SEOR if needed
Extend footer/header plates as needed for full bracket attachment
Fasten LVL to top and bottom plates with full-length angle brackets
Locate the provided plywood Wall Templates
Cut out the Bow Ties out of the Wall Templates
Using wood screws, mount wall templates based off if the locations provided in the shop drawings
Insert a Bow Ties between each Wall Template
Wall Bracket Installation
Based on the locations of the plywood Wall Templates, position the Wall Brackets - They should sit ≈1/2" below the top edge of the template
Ensure they are flush with the studs, error on the side of caution - If needed and recess them by 1/16"
Drilling holes for (6) 3/4" through-bolts to go through the reinforced wall studs
Note: The Wall Brackets are able to be offset by up to 3 hole locations depending on need. Each pair of Wall Brackets must be secured with no less than 6 through-bolts.
Wall Bracket Installation (Continued)
Use (6) 3/4" x 6 1/2" bolts, (12) 3/4" washers, (6) 3/4" nuts per wall stud
Torque down to 60 lb-ft
Note: You will receive (2) additional Wall Brackets with smaller mounting holes. These are uses in instances where through bolting isn’t possible. You will use (6) 1/2"-6 x 31/2" Hex Head Lag Screws.
Add blocking in wall where needed - anywhere the Wall Plate extends >4 inches past a Wall Bracket
Systems with Mid-Landings
The landing will utilize a Landing Stabilizer
It must either be secured to a reinforced stud or blocking if it ends up being between studs
Note: The stabilizer can be orientated with the attachment point pointing towards the landing or away as shown above.
Wall Plate Installation
With the help of a partner, position a steel wall plate on top of the Plywood Wall Template and secure it with (2) 3/8" x 5" Washer Head Lag Screws
Mark the drill locations for a minimum of (8) fasteners
Notes: There is an “UP” arrow on each plate, make sure to orientate it correctly. The ideal connection point for all(8) fasteners is through-bolted into the Wall Brackets, but that will not be always possible. In cases where it isn’t, use 5" Lag screws to secure them into the reinforced studs orwall blocking.
Wall Plate Installation (Continued)
Predrill marked locations
Secure the Wall Plates using the following
Wall Plate to Wall Bracket: (1*) 1/2" - 13 x 2" Hex Head Flange Bolt (1*) 1/2" x 1" Flat Washer (1*) 1/2" - Grade 8 Yellow Zinc Nylon Insert Nut
Wall Plate to Wood: (1*) 3/8" x 5" Washer Head Lag Screw
Ensure the plates are level and plumb *Qty per fastener connection - Total of 8 fastener connections per Tread Wall Plate
Wall Plate Installation (Continued) If your system has multiple landings as in this example you will be able to identify the Wall Pates by their “Tag” and comparing that to the shop drawings. This tag can either be left attached to the plate and hidden in the wall build out if there is room, or cut off.
Inner Arm Installation • Using (8) 1/2" - 13 x 1' Flat Head Cap Screws, install the Inner Arms to the Tread Wall Plates
Note: Shimming may be necessary to ensure the Inner Arms are level. This will be discussed in the next step.
Inner Arm Installation (Continued)
Place a level on top of the Inner Arm
Add Shims in between the Inner Arm plates and the Tread Wall Plates as needed
Note: There are two different thicknesses of shims. Only Use one shim per location, do not stack them.
Adjustable Arm Installation
Place the Adjustable Arm over the Inner Arm
Slide it out to the specified distance called out in the shop drawings
Adjustable Arm Installation (Continued)
Using (4) 3/8"-16 x 11/4" Carriage Bolts and (4) 3/8"-16 Serrated Flange Locknut, secure the Adjustable Arm over the Inner Arm - Do not tighten them yet, just get them started
Slide Arm Gaskets in between the Adjustable Arm and the Inner Arm - It will hook over all (4) carriage bolts
Tighten all (4) hardware fasteners
Note: Do this for all of the arms in the landings if applicable.
Landing Brace Installation (If Applicable)
If your system has a landing, it may be have been designed with a brace to better reinforce landing
Position the Landing Brace against the ends of the Tread Arm assemblies with gaskets between each
Landing Brace Installation (Continued)
Secure the Landing Brace to the Tread Arms using (2) 3/4" x 2" Hex Head Flange Bolt per Tread Arm
Secure the Landing Brace to the wall using the following
Landing Brace to Wall Bracket: 1/2" - 13 x 2" Hex Head Flange Bolt 1/2" x 1" Flat Washer 1/2" - Grade 8 Yellow Zinc Nylon Insert Nut
Landing Brace to Wood: 3/8" x 5" Washer Head Lag Screw
Remove the plywood wall templates that were installed in STEP 2
Using your shop drawings and the routed panel identification label on each of the plywood railing templates to find the first panel
Have a partner hold it in place while you do the following two steps
Thread a 3/8" - 16 x 11/2" Hex Head Flange Bolt through a Vedera Glass Pin, a Nylon Bushing, the plywood and into the Tread Arm
Tighten the bolt securely
Note: If the bolt holes on the ends of the Tread Arms do not align with the holes in the Plywood Templates, then additional shimming of the Tread Arms will be necessary.
At this point, the Steel First portion of the installation is complete. This stair system will act as a sturdy set of temporary stairs for the remainder of the overall project. The following steps of this instruction manual, will be used once you have received the finished wood treads & glass panels and are ready to install them to finish the job.
Note: It is suggested to attach some 2x4’s to the top of the panels to create a more ridged structure. This will act as a safety railing during the remainder of the overall project
If your Cantilever order was structured so that the Wall Plates, Tread Arms, Plywood (glass) Templates and hardware were shipped and installed first, those temporary components will need to be dismantled before continuing. Remove the glass mounting hardware and Plywood Templates. Otherwise, if you received the entire order as one complete shipment and did not install temporary treads or railing, proceed to the next step.
Build out the wall using 3/4" Plywood
Leave ≈1" gap around the Wall Plates to allow for the running of the LED harness
LED Installation (If Applicable)
Before commencing any installation or maintenance work, disconnect power at the breaker box and ensure that it cannot be re-connected inadvertently
A Licensed Electrician is required for the following incorrectly connecting the system to power may result in; damage to the components, electric shock, fire or death. All wire connections should always meet your local electrical code requirements
LED Installation (Continued)
Connect the Red & Black wires from the LED Power Supply to the “V -” connections on the LED Controller
Connect the Stringer Harness Pigtail to the LED
Controller - Red to “V+”, Black to “W” & White to “C”
Secure the whole assembly the structure either to header or the floor depending on your configuration
Note: You can use double sided tape to secure the LED Controller to the Power Supply.
Note: Use of a junction box is required for all exposed wiring connections.
LED Installation (Continued)
Connect to the 120V AC line to the LED Power Supply
Small Power Supply
Live/ACL
L (to)
Black
Neutral/CAN
N (to)
White
Ground/FG/PE
(to)
Copper
Large Power Supply
Live/ACL
Brown (to)
Black
Neutral/CAN
Blue (to)
White
Ground/FG/PE
Green (to)
Copper
LED Installation (Continued)
Run the loomed stringer harness through the gap left between the plywood and the Wall Plates and secure it with Zip Ties
Connect the Stringer Harness to the pigtail coming off of the LED Controller
Note: The Stringer Harness is designed to allow multiple sections to be connected together to form a longer harness.
LED Installation (Continued)
Lace the pigtails coming off of the main harness through the wall plates and into the pass-through holes in the Tread Arms
Connect the LED Harness Extensions to each Main Harness Pigtail
LED Installation (Continued)
As part of your installation kit you have been provided a strip of LED’s meant to test the functionality of each treads harness connections
• Continue to pack out the wall by adding 1/2" furring strips to the 3/4" plywood put on in STEP 21 - Using construction adhesive and screws
Note: The furring strips should not extend past the 3/4" plywood. This allows space for the Wall Plate hardware.
Cut 1/4" plywood to cover the furring strips
This portion of the wall pack out will cover the Tread Wall Plates and hardware
Leave ≈ 3/8" gap from the Tread Arms
Tuck LED Harness behind this layer of plywood
Note: This gap will not be visible once the wood treads are installed, but it is critical to reduce any noises that may occur between materials.
Finish the wall with the material of your choosing
Leave ≈ 3/8" gap from the Tread Arms
Note: This gap will not be visible once the wood treads are installed, but it is critical to reduce any noises that may occur between materials.
Wood Tread Installation
The wood treads will be cut long (+3/4") from the factory to allow for variation in the wall surface
Measure and cut the treads down to size
Dry fit each wood tread to ensure exact fit
Wood Tread Installation (Continued)
Apply a liberal amount of construction adhesive to the top of the Tread Arm
Wood Tread Installation (Continued)
Place the tread over the Tread Arm
Secure with the provided #8 X 3 /4' Round Washer HeadSharp Point Wood Screws
Wood Tread Installation (Continued)
Run the LED Strip Harness through the inner hole of the Inner Tread Arm (If Applicable)
Connect the LED Harness Extensions to the preinstalled LED Strip Harness
Secure the wires to the underside of the Tread Arm
Note: There will be plenty of space between the bottom of the Tread Arm assembly and the bottom wood of the tread for the harness to not be pinched.
Wood Tread Installation (Continued)
Apply construction adhesive to the miter joints on the bottom wood of the tread
Wood Tread Installation (Continued)
Press the bottom tread wood up into place
Secure with Pin Nails
Wood Tread Installation (Continued)
If your system includes a mid-landing that does not connect with the glass railing (e.g. 90°s, U-Shapes and O-Shapes), you will need to insert green H Clips into the routed out holes cut into the edge of the landing wood. These will be what is used to secure the wood cover.
Glass Railing Installation
Assemble the Glass Railing handrail as shown above
Tighten the first and last bolts of each glass panel down with a wrench
Hand tighten the remaining bolts, this will make it easier if you need to readjust the fitment once all the other glass panels are installed
Glass Railing Installation (Continued)
Check alignment of the glass panels
Loosen bolts as needed to make adjustments
Once the panel is aligned, torque bolts to 23 lb ft
Note: This glass railing system is designed to have a 1" gap between panels of glass.
Locate the tread wood end covers
Although the rubber O rings will provide a snug fit in the predrilled holes for the wood covers, it is recommended to use silicone on the face of the pin around the bolt hole in order to provide additional strength
Apply a line of silicone around each O ring
Attach the wood covers onto each pin
These will fit snugly and could require soft taps to place
If your system includes a mid-landing that does not connectwith the glass railing (e.g. 90°s, U-Shapes and O-Shapes), you will need to attach the platform wood end cover on to the green H Clips that you previously installed to secure it.
LED Installation (If Applicable)
At this point, check to make sure the power supply’s connections are isolated from any source of grounding, and turn the power back on
LED Installation - Wall Switch Setup
It will be necessary to program the Kinetic Wall Switch in order to test the system
Press and hold the button on the LED Wireless Receiver until the Red LED starts to blink slowly
Press the ON button on your Kinetic Remote
Repeat the process for adding additional remotes
LED Installation - Wall Switch Setup (Continued)
Operate the remotes to test functionality of the system
Press Up (A) on the switch to turn the lights on
Press Down (B) on the switch to turn the lights off
Press & Hold Up (A) on the switch to increase or decrease the brightness
Press & Hold Down (B) on the switch to adjust the color temperature between Cool White and Warm White
LED Installation - Wall Switch Setup (Continued) The wall mounted remote switch can be installed into a standard gang box or just simply stuck to the wall with double sided adhesive tape.
LED Installation - Mobile App Setup
Search for the CleanLife app in the Apple App Store or in the Google Play Store, or use the QR Code above for a direct link
LED Installation - Mobile App Setup (Continued)
Open the app and create a free account
Once account has been created, press the “+” button
Select “Add Device”
The app will automatically scan for nearby devices
LED Installation - Mobile App Setup (Continued)
Follow the in-app instructions to complete the setup and configuration
Search for the CleanLife skill on Amazon Alexa, or Google Assistant or Apple Home for additional smart home automation control
Get Help from Us
Is this not the product you're looking for? Troubleshoot your issue by contacting our customer service team. 866-432-0541 or customerservice@viewrail.com
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